I made this mod cause I didn't like the way my eGo-T looked on my battery mods (SilverBullet, Provari and VV Box mods)
The Battery extender for the eGo works but your atty sticks way above your battery mod. This extender adapter mod gets your Tank atty or Mega atty down flush with your battery mods. Here's a step by step instruction of what I did.
Start with an eGo battery charger extension. I got this one at Cignot. It should look similar to this one. They were designed and are sold to put on an eGo battery and screw into the older 510 chargers.





Screw an old eGo Mega Atty onto the adapter.
Screw an old eGo Batty connector onto the other end of the adapter.
Start wiggling and pulling on the two.
Usually the Atty Connector end comes off first.
Probably cause it's shorter than the Battery connector.
Yank the Atty connector off of the wire.
Remove the old eGo Cylinder atty.
Remove the old eGo Batty connector.
Attach an old 510 atty or carto.
Insert into a pipe cutter.
Set the depth of cut at 0.330 - 0.350
The smaller of the two will mean more detailed work later while larger means less work.
Cut the sleeve with the pipe cutter. Advance the screw very slowly and gradually so as not to put so much of a compression flange on the sleeve.
Set the pipe cutter for a second cut same depth as the first cut. I do this just to not be wasteful. You can use the second sleeve with purchased atty and batty connectors from someone like MV for a second one of these.
Second sleeve removed.
Dremel a slit in the third and remaining sleeve.
Just deep enough to break it apart and get it off of the batty connector end.
Dremel the flange off of the back side of the Batty connector and grind (file) the flange off of the back side of the Atty connector. The shorter you cut the sleeve earlier, the shorter you will have to make these connectors to fit in the sleeve. Also put a slight bevel on the Atty connector so it won't bind later when you are pressing this thing together.
Grind off the center post of the Batty connector a little to remove wire and solder mound. If you went with the shorter version of the sleeve then you'll need to grind this center post down almost to the insulation.
Use a drill bit (size R) or as close as you can find to flatten out the pipe cutter depression that you got at one end of sleeve 1 and both ends of sleeve 2. You can either spend time wiggling it on the drill bit or you can LIGHTLY hammer it to flatten the end taper some. You don't have to remove all of the taper just some of it. If a size R drill bit will slide through the sleeve easily then that's good. If you remove too much taper the connector won't be tight. Remove too little taper and it will bind and buckle the sleeve when you press it all together later.
Pre-tin about a 1.5" piece of 22ga stranded wire with the insulation removed and twisted.
Solder it to the Batty connector center conductor. For health reasons, I use lead free solder.
Ready to assemble.
Cut the wire so that it will end up flush with the atty connector face when everything get's pressed together. Thread the wire into the atty connector and press the whole shebang together in a vice. I use old used drywall knife blades on the vice jaws so as not to scar the adaptor ends cause my vice has textured jaws.
The wire should now be flush with the face of the atty connector.
Solder a smooth and low profile mounded surface on the atty center conductor. Check with a multimeter to make sure you made good contact with the wire. If not, get some more solder into the hole and make a new smooth mounded surface. If you get solder on the threads and you can't remove it with a pick then a die sized M7x.05 will take it off nicely. Again, I used lead free solder.
After filing, check with a multimeter for opens, resistance and shorts. If it's all ok then file off the solder some. Not all of it but most of it. Clean this thing extensively to remove file shavings etc. I rinse it in water and then blow dry it. Recheck with multimeter then install it on your device and enjoy. There should be just enough room for air to flow nicely. It sits a little higher than this on the Silver Bullet because their connector has a taller shoulder and because the ProVari has a slightly recessed connector. The length of my (this) extension mod is a happy medium. If you plan on never having a ProVari then you can go as short as you possibly can.
I've made 8 of these for my mods cause I love the eGo-T tanks on all of them. All are working without a flaw. If you have any questions, feel free to fire away.

The Battery extender for the eGo works but your atty sticks way above your battery mod. This extender adapter mod gets your Tank atty or Mega atty down flush with your battery mods. Here's a step by step instruction of what I did.
eGo Mega-Mini battery extender mod for your eGo-T and Mega attys
(eGo MMBE mod)
(eGo MMBE mod)
Start with an eGo battery charger extension. I got this one at Cignot. It should look similar to this one. They were designed and are sold to put on an eGo battery and screw into the older 510 chargers.





Screw an old eGo Mega Atty onto the adapter.

Screw an old eGo Batty connector onto the other end of the adapter.

Start wiggling and pulling on the two.

Usually the Atty Connector end comes off first.

Probably cause it's shorter than the Battery connector.

Yank the Atty connector off of the wire.

Remove the old eGo Cylinder atty.

Remove the old eGo Batty connector.

Attach an old 510 atty or carto.

Insert into a pipe cutter.


Set the depth of cut at 0.330 - 0.350
The smaller of the two will mean more detailed work later while larger means less work.


Cut the sleeve with the pipe cutter. Advance the screw very slowly and gradually so as not to put so much of a compression flange on the sleeve.


Set the pipe cutter for a second cut same depth as the first cut. I do this just to not be wasteful. You can use the second sleeve with purchased atty and batty connectors from someone like MV for a second one of these.

Second sleeve removed.


Dremel a slit in the third and remaining sleeve.

Just deep enough to break it apart and get it off of the batty connector end.

Dremel the flange off of the back side of the Batty connector and grind (file) the flange off of the back side of the Atty connector. The shorter you cut the sleeve earlier, the shorter you will have to make these connectors to fit in the sleeve. Also put a slight bevel on the Atty connector so it won't bind later when you are pressing this thing together.

Grind off the center post of the Batty connector a little to remove wire and solder mound. If you went with the shorter version of the sleeve then you'll need to grind this center post down almost to the insulation.

Use a drill bit (size R) or as close as you can find to flatten out the pipe cutter depression that you got at one end of sleeve 1 and both ends of sleeve 2. You can either spend time wiggling it on the drill bit or you can LIGHTLY hammer it to flatten the end taper some. You don't have to remove all of the taper just some of it. If a size R drill bit will slide through the sleeve easily then that's good. If you remove too much taper the connector won't be tight. Remove too little taper and it will bind and buckle the sleeve when you press it all together later.

Pre-tin about a 1.5" piece of 22ga stranded wire with the insulation removed and twisted.
Solder it to the Batty connector center conductor. For health reasons, I use lead free solder.

Ready to assemble.


Cut the wire so that it will end up flush with the atty connector face when everything get's pressed together. Thread the wire into the atty connector and press the whole shebang together in a vice. I use old used drywall knife blades on the vice jaws so as not to scar the adaptor ends cause my vice has textured jaws.

The wire should now be flush with the face of the atty connector.

Solder a smooth and low profile mounded surface on the atty center conductor. Check with a multimeter to make sure you made good contact with the wire. If not, get some more solder into the hole and make a new smooth mounded surface. If you get solder on the threads and you can't remove it with a pick then a die sized M7x.05 will take it off nicely. Again, I used lead free solder.

After filing, check with a multimeter for opens, resistance and shorts. If it's all ok then file off the solder some. Not all of it but most of it. Clean this thing extensively to remove file shavings etc. I rinse it in water and then blow dry it. Recheck with multimeter then install it on your device and enjoy. There should be just enough room for air to flow nicely. It sits a little higher than this on the Silver Bullet because their connector has a taller shoulder and because the ProVari has a slightly recessed connector. The length of my (this) extension mod is a happy medium. If you plan on never having a ProVari then you can go as short as you possibly can.


I've made 8 of these for my mods cause I love the eGo-T tanks on all of them. All are working without a flaw. If you have any questions, feel free to fire away.