eGrip VT

[Tpat591]

Much better pic. Seems you are relying entirely on the silicone coil caps to provide a top seal to the coil or does the coil head actually enter the drilled out portion and engage the lower exterior o-ring on the coil to provide the top seal?

 

[flatfootandy]

No only the metal part is entering the vent tube, till today i didn't face any problems with those top silicone rings.
Leakage occurs only on the rba , caused by not well-placed cotton wick.
To avoid condensliquid i'm pulling a bit longer than the time out.
The change on the vent pipe is a simple fall back to version one.

 

[Tpat591]

Here are the before pics from this thread

 

[Tpat591]

Sorry I am reliant on very visual examples to understand. You must be relying on the silicone caps w/ CL/CLR coils & stock washer seals on top of coil caps w/ CS & RBA.

The Drill penetration is to allow the metal protruding lip of the CS & RBA top caps to enter into the chimney since they would not fit if the stock vent tube was simply ground off flush with the flange at the base of the vent tube.

Is this a correct assumption?

 

[Tpat591]

Aren't you concerned that the bottom flange will break off over time as it seems you have removed so much metal that it might actually snap off over time under the stress of downward pressure on the coil?

 

[flatfootandy]

Sorry I am reliant on very visual examples to understand. You must be relying on the silicone caps w/ CL/CLR coils & stock washer seals on top of coil caps w/ CS & RBA.

The Drill penetration is to allow the metal protruding lip of the CS & RBA top caps to enter into the chimney since they would not fit if the stock vent tube was simply ground off flush with the flange at the base of the vent tube.

Is this a correct assumption?

Exakt.

 

[flatfootandy]

View attachment 532829

Aren't you concerned that the bottom flange will break off over time as it seems you have removed so much metal that it might actually snap off over time under the stress of downward pressure on the coil?

I did it freehand, and that is the reason why i'm searchin' for ventpipes as spare parts.
On the other side i'm waiting hopeful for the Cubis system in E-Grip version

 

[Tpat591]

I'd settle for the Evic VTC Egrip but an RX200 2 battery W/ 10ml egrip tank where 3rd battery would go Version would be nice too. LOL.

Something like this with a Joyetech Board or a DNA200 would be pretty sweet.

You might be able to wire brush the chrome off the outside upper part of the flange & tube, use a bit of flux & tin it with silver solder to reinforce it using a propane torch. Ought to reinforce it just fine & give it plenty of strength to keep it from failing. Also keep that brass from contacting your juice.

 

[flatfootandy]

Silver solder? Is the one from the electronic freaks food grade?
I bought the VT used to try TC, actually i'm not convinced.
My standard device is the version one, enters most pockets, easy to refill, and in the vehicle it will not roll somewhere. Same with the pipe, drop it in the ashtray and it is at your hands.
My standard setup is 1.8 Ohm at 8 Watt, 0.22 NiChro wire.
A similar coil with compareable surface in the RBA using 0.25mm Ti-wire, was fine to vape but the coil is stained very fast, the same coil in a CLR-head caused a hard on-off regulation and was not fine. Seems to me as if TC needs a nice, continous airflow, easier to get with the RBA.
The next i will try is Stainless Steel.

 

[Tpat591]

Silver solder? Is the one from the electronic freaks food grade?
I bought the VT used to try TC, actually i'm not convinced.
My standard device is the version one, enters most pockets, easy to refill, and in the vehicle it will not roll somewhere. Same with the pipe, drop it in the ashtray and it is at your hands.
My standard setup is 1.8 Ohm at 8 Watt, 0.22 NiChro wire.
A similar coil with compareable surface in the RBA using 0.25mm Ti-wire, was fine to vape but the coil is stained very fast, the same coil in a CLR-head caused a hard on-off regulation and was not fine. Seems to me as if TC needs a nice, continous airflow, easier to get with the RBA.
The next i will try is Stainless Steel.

I would think you can use the silver solder they use on copper plumbing water pipes They sell at Home Depot. Food grade as the water you drink runs through it.

The CL version of Egrip was plagued with poor airflow with the CL Coils. Constant gurgling then dry/burnt hits as the coil overheated. It was horrible until I drilled the CL base with an extra air hole just like the RBA had. Gave it the airflow it needed to perform with the CL heads and allow them to come into their own.

Wonder if the VT version needs the same modification to perform effectively.

 

[flatfootandy]

The TC-CL heads from shop or self-build should work better with the straight intake, the long, bend intake is a serious restriction, even with bigger holes.
The CS- base with 2mm holes is minimum for me, the RBA is most comfortable and most thirsty, the CL-base is closer to the RBA.
With my horizontal builds, a 1.8-2.0mm bore, close to the coil, as the smallest point in the airway is the best.

 

[Tpat591]

This is what my CL Base looks like. Bought a 5pk of extra bases and just drilled out 3 of them for my 3 Egrip OLEDs. The CL heads work so much better with proper airflow to them.

 

[BetoMex]

Finally I've found the perfect forum/thread to ask about my eGrip VT.
Hope someone can help me.

I'm an eGrip 1st timer, and I seriously want to love it a bit more. Leaving aside the hefty weight, it's perfect for me as I dislike big mods with big big claromizers sticking out, I'm more of a low-key guy. There are random leakings but can't figure out from where.

My problem comes when I'm on VT.
With either Ni or Ti coils, I have to boost the temp up to 280C-300C while I'd prefer to keep it on around 250C... but if I do that, as soon as I fire "TempControl" blocks me and it won't fire properly.

I've found out that with Ni coils, firing will pretty much fail 80% of times and comes up with any random message "TempControl", "AtomizerLow" or "AtmoizerShort".

Additional question:
I'm new to TC, so the first week I kept using the regular Canthal Coil, and now It's stored in the box while I enjoyed a bit more the TC experience (with Ti coil), can I go back to use the sam Canthal Coil after a month, or do they expire once you leave them out for a couple of weeks?

On a side note, has anyone used Liqua/Ritchy e-cigs? I saw a new one is coming out, similar to the eGrip, and wouldn't mind keeping it on my wishlist in case my eGrip keeps leaking. Slightly bigger but looks very good.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tpat591]

Assume this is the unit of which you speak. No TC. Battery projections questionable at best and battery is not replaceable. USB position means you must charge unit on its side. Not Firmware update-able. Removable Pyrex tank is interesting. Airtight seal on adjustable airflow can eliminate leaking but who really bothers to shut them down when not in use. Looks very comfortable in the hand.

Personally, I think you would do better with Nebox, but that is not without its own issues as well. Not firmware update-able. Functional yet debatable accuracy in TC mode. Never let your tank run low or leaking can occur and possible to torch coil if you run dry. Leaking issues are frequent complaints, but never found a unit that didn't leak if not set up properly. Great coil selection and good rba deck. Excellent juice capacity and a replaceable 18650 battery.

Surprised to hear your Egrip VT is leaking on stock coils. It would be helpful to have more info on where leaking appears to be from and exactly the setup when it occurs. I don't own a VT but there are a few here who do and may hve better ideas on what is causing it. You should look to your seals and make sure all appear undamaged and are in place.

Re TP shutting down it appears that you are having same issues as flatfootandy and they are airflow related. Try removing your airflow adjustment screw completely and see if it improves a bit.

 

[flatfootandy]

The weight of the Grip is a feature to build up muscles.
Not used up coils are kept dust free, and used again when necessary(sometimes i need a free device for testing).
The VT is my first TC-device, so i'm at the beginning of learning.
From the German forum i know that a good electric contact is the basic of TC, that's why i wanted to start with the RBA.
Factory-build-coils are suspicious to me, since i started with Kanger-Dual-Coil, turned to the single and building the mistakes by myself.
The TC electronic, the Grip and the available coils: Seems not fitting together, tuning free.
That's my actual point, progess is necessary.

 

[Miork]

View attachment 527066 View attachment 527065
It's that inner ring in the top cap of the CLR on the left. CL is on the right for comparison.

I would like to know if the CLR top cap can be screwed on the RBA base to replace its original top cap. If so, taking out the inner ring would make the RBA base fit The eGrip OLED VT without any further modifications. Thanks

 

[flatfootandy]

Unfortunately(?) the RBA-topcap does not fit, different treads.
If this inner ring is removed, the CLR-heads should fit.

 

[BetoMex]

Surprised to hear your Egrip VT is leaking on stock coils. It would be helpful to have more info on where leaking appears to be from and exactly the setup when it occurs. I don't own a VT but there are a few here who do and may hve better ideas on what is causing it. You should look to your seals and make sure all appear undamaged and are in place.

Re TP shutting down it appears that you are having same issues as flatfootandy and they are airflow related. Try removing your airflow adjustment screw completely and see if it improves a bit.

Here's a pic I took right now. I cleaned it up a but a couple of minutes ago and there's some mystery leak again.
It starts as some sort of condensation between the silver metal and the black painted metal. But it is definitely liquid, as it is oily and really annoying when it gets to my hand. Even worse, it left a stain in my bed cover!
I have a theory but haven't been able to clarify it: Last time I had a big leak problem (two weeks ago) I opened everything and cleaned it up. I believe leaking might be due to residual liquid between the coil and the bottom screw-cap. I cleaned it up hours ago and the leak has (hopefully) gone again.

I'll report later about the leak, it might be a laziness problem. See, I never cleaned my eLeaf iStick, the eGrip might be a little higher maintenance device. *blush*

Re TC: Unscrewed completely the airflow screw to no avail. I still have to set it up to 285C-300C to get it to fire properly without "TempControl" problems.

Thanks for your pointers.
Re Liqua device: interesting points you make, I'll keep them in mind.

Not used up coils are kept dust free, and used again when necessary(sometimes i need a free device for testing).

Great, good to know. I stored both my canthal and Ni back in their small blister packets inside the eGrip box. I'll revisit them soon again. Thanks!

 

[flatfootandy]

Here's a pic I took right now. I cleaned it up a but a couple of minutes ago and there's some mystery leak again.
It starts as some sort of condensation between the silver metal and the black painted metal. But it is definitely liquid, as it is oily and really annoying when it gets to my hand. Even worse, it left a stain in my bed cover!
I have a theory but haven't been able to clarify it: Last time I had a big leak problem (two weeks ago) I opened everything and cleaned it up. I believe leaking might be due to residual liquid between the coil and the bottom screw-cap. I cleaned it up hours ago and the leak has (hopefully) gone again.

I'll report later about the leak, it might be a laziness problem. See, I never cleaned my eLeaf iStick, the eGrip might be a little higher maintenance device. *blush*

If your coil-heads are ok, the upper O-rings of the base might be the cause of the leakage, looks as if the body is filled with liquid from an elder leak, i would unscrew the bottom-plate, check the gaskets and wait until the liquid has completeley run out.

 

[Tpat591]

Here's a pic I took right now. I cleaned it up a but a couple of minutes ago and there's some mystery leak again.
It starts as some sort of condensation between the silver metal and the black painted metal. But it is definitely liquid, as it is oily and really annoying when it gets to my hand. Even worse, it left a stain in my bed cover!
I have a theory but haven't been able to clarify it: Last time I had a big leak problem (two weeks ago) I opened everything and cleaned it up. I believe leaking might be due to residual liquid between the coil and the bottom screw-cap. I cleaned it up hours ago and the leak has (hopefully) gone again.

I'll report later about the leak, it might be a laziness problem. See, I never cleaned my eLeaf iStick, the eGrip might be a little higher maintenance device. *blush*

Re TC: Unscrewed completely the airflow screw to no avail. I still have to set it up to 285C-300C to get it to fire properly without "TempControl" problems.

Thanks for your pointers.
Re Liqua device: interesting points you make, I'll keep them in mind.


Great, good to know. I stored both my canthal and Ni back in their small blister packets inside the eGrip box. I'll revisit them soon again. Thanks!

That leak between the top of the base plate and the body is juice leaking past your coil and following the airflow intake passage and is indicative of a compromised vacuum seal of the storage tank. This allows air to leak into your tank keeping the vacuum from preventing the weight of juice in your tank from leaking through the cotton wicking of your coil. Most of time this is caused by a bad seal at the top of coil where it engages the Chimney/vent tube but any seal to the tank can be responsible

You need to learn the location of each and every o-ring and seal in your unit. Inspect integrity of each & every one and replace/adjust/tighten as necessary. Juice that seeps into the air intake and dries up can clog the intake ports further restricting airflow which can exacerbate airflow related TP issues.

I drilled a hole in my CL bases on my Egrip OLED units to act as a secondary air intake and to allow any leaking past the coil to leak out through that hole so it does not back up into the stock airflow passages where it could gum up the ports. Spare bases can be purchased separately in 5 pks or singly (at greater /unit cost) to revert your unit back to original configuration.