EHPro Bachelor RTA - single coil

[OhTheAgony]

just google notch coil

Here's what notch coils fasttech carries (at the moment):
https://www.fasttech.com/category/3033/wicks-wires?sort=r&keywords=notch coil

Ah, thanks. I thought you guys were talking about a notched coil designed for the Bachelor specifically.

I seen no reason why they wouldn't work as long as they physically fit in there, but the dimensions that fasttech gives for them are a bit unclear to me to be honest.

Without trying I estemate a 4mm diameter would be about the biggest you could safely fit on the deck without shorting it, but maybe you could just get a 5mm coil in there too, not sure.

 

[CorallineAlgae]

Any1 got the Nano and can confirm the ROC coils from the normal also fit the Nano?
And more importantly: can you also use your own clapton, hive etc. coils in there, as I heard someone mention the holes will only take small diameter (max 24G or so) wire........so that would mean no thick coils?

Yes, it uses the same premade ROC coils that the full sized Bachelor uses.
I have 28/32g Claptons in the Nano and full sized Bachelor right now and I have used a 26/32g Clapton in the full sized as well. It didn't fit a 2x28/30g fused Clapton and I haven't tried hive wire. The 26/32g Clapton was a tight fit. It won't take anything bigger than that.

 

[MMW]

I think the new ss notched coils are nickel legs.

 

[OhTheAgony]

I think the new ss notched coils are nickel legs.

That sounds complicated

So TC only then?

 

[Btsmokincat]

I think the new ss notched coils are nickel legs.

Yup nickel or "nonresistance" wire legs just like the old kanger evod coils are made with kanthal and wire welded nickel legs. Notch coil is OK for wattage or SS temp control.

 

[MMW]

There are a couple kinds I guess. The Wismec ones are non resistance nickel legs with a ss barrel. However, this link says they are soldered on? Ss solder?
Notch Coil by Wismec & JayBo Vaping Walrus

Then there is also tss coils fromy Ijoy which also has nickel legs to a ss barrel.
iJoy TSS Coil Preview - Vaping360

Idk about those. I like spinning my own anyway.

 

[nelsonm64]

i'm sure glad I still have my wire zapper! gonna pull those nickel legs OFF and see if I can get the resistance up a tad .2 or.25 is a bit low for my liking. hopefully there won't be any HOT legs!

 

[Jim_ MDP]

That sounds complicated

So TC only then?

No more so than the Crown factory heads which are the same configuration.
These might TC better actually, not that that's saying much.

i'm sure glad I still have my wire zapper! gonna pull those nickel legs OFF and see if I can get the resistance up a tad .2 or.25 is a bit low for my liking. hopefully there won't be any HOT legs!

That's the actual point of a NR-R-NR configuration... the legs don't take/absorb the current.

As for the Ohms, I expect a lot of variations to come quickly.
We can't exactly roll these up ourselves.

 

[OhTheAgony]

I've been wicking my subtank mini rba without problems since september, but wicking this rta just doesn't work for me without leaking.

Haven't tried native wicks. Should try it if nothing else works.

I only have muji at home (just received a package of 189pcs). My first muji wick on the bachelor worked amazing, i could vape with the jfc open all the way with 60/40 VG.

I'm currently trying a new approach:
1. Raised the coil a bit to increase the distance between the wick and the small holes in the deck just to make sure there is zero contact.

2. Instead of rolling and fluffing the cotton i just cut a strip, removed the outer layers, made one end pointy and wicked the coil.

Just had to wipe of a little juice ring on my mod, but that could be some old leftover juice stuck in the afc ring since the last build.

I'll report back if this works.

So how is your new wicking method holding up?

I keep getting the ring-of-juice. Only a little bit with the Nano but more so with the regular version. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the seem along the edge on the bottom of the deck.

I'm getting tired of the mess and am a little worried it'll get in my mod and kill it eventually. So I'm gonna try to plug those two little holes on the deck and see what happens. They seem completely useless to me anyways.

 

[cheech226]

i have a theorem on the way and i'll see if those notch coils will fit the bachelor.
i hope plugging those little holes does nothing too. if it works for you i'll sure plug mine.

 

[OhTheAgony]

i have a theorem on the way and i'll see if those notch coils will fit the bachelor.
i hope plugging those little holes does nothing too. if it works for you i'll sure plug mine.

I'm not sure if it would suit me, but I really like the looks of the Theorem. I'd be interested to hear a little comparison with the Bachelor when you get it anyway.



After further inspection I don't think plugging the holes will solve the problem but I did it anyway and it seems to vape fine this way so far. I just stuck a toothpick in there and cut it of clean with a little scalpel.

It looks like the cause of the ring of liquid is liquid leaking along the side of the RBA deck where the two o-rings and set-screws are. So this time when putting it back together I didn't lubricate any of the o-rings but put it together dry instead, very carefully so I wouldn't stress the o-rings when doing so. I'm hoping by starting off dry it will remain dry there this time.

It's still to early to tell if it worked but I'll report back after giving it some time.

FYI, I didn't feel comfortable leaving the tank on my mod overnight so I took it off, removed the mouth-piece, dried it off with paper tissues completely and set it on the bedside table upside down.

It's unbelievable but the seam along the edge on the bottom of the RBA deck still managed to be moist with sticky e-liquid when inspecting it this morning!

Unfortunately I also finally heard back from E-wolk, the shop I bought my regular Bachelor from, and they say there's no warranty on these. Pretty bummed out about that. I paid €37,50 incl. shipping or around 40 dollars for this tank because I thought I would get some proper service this way in case I needed it but I guess I'll save myself some money on future tank-orders and just go for the cheapest shop I can find instead.

I did contact them again demanding a new set of o-rings at least though, since mine came out of the box with a broken one and there wasn't a proper replacement for it included with the kit. Last chance for them to keep me as a customer I guess, I'm still waiting for a reply.

 

[JeremyR]

So I've been working on a boat rebuild project and the bachelor has taken a lot of abuse. It fell off the boat 3 or more times 4 ft to the concrete.

Amazingly the glass did not break! The last time the tank popped loose though.. Included are some photos.. First shows the tank glass raised up and juice ports out of align. Last pic is after I assembled it.. Base on my mod and tank sitting on the top dt off. squared up the base glass to base and hit the mod to press it back in.. Gotta be straight though.





Tapped the bent juice port back in line.


Make sure the adjustment lines up before reassembling.


Back together.. No problems today.


Still can't believe the glass didn't break.

 

[cheech226]

wow! my glass broke just dissembling the tank for cleaning. glad i wasn't cut. i will admit i may have squeezed it too hard. it's your lucky day!
btw, thanks for the pics, i learned something.

 

[OhTheAgony]

So I've been working on a boat rebuild project and the bachelor has taken a lot of abuse. It fell off the boat 3 or more times 4 ft to the concrete.

Amazingly the glass did not break! The last time the tank popped loose though.. Included are some photos.. First shows the tank glass raised up and juice ports out of align. Last pic is after I assembled it.. Base on my mod and tank sitting on the top dt off. squared up the base glass to base and hit the mod to press it back in.. Gotta be straight though.





Tapped the bent juice port back in line.


Make sure the adjustment lines up before reassembling.


Back together.. No problems today.


Still can't believe the glass didn't break.

It is a sturdy little b*st*rd for sure!

I could not for the life of me get the funnel and RBA separated this morning and eventually said screw it and grabbed a set of tongue-and-groove pliers, put it right on the juice flow control holes and unscrewed it that way. It was quite a bit of force for such a small piece of metal but it doesn't have a scratch on it!

If only it wasn't so messy

Everything is still dry now though, fingers crossed!

I only did the Nano today by the way, but if it's still dry in the morning I'll give the bigger one the same treatment tomorrow.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Erm, scratch that, I will not be messing with my regular Bachelor tomorrow. I'm getting a new one after all

 

[madLyfe]

so i tried out my 5mm spaced coil idea and not so good results. got some almost burny type hits even in TC.
notes:

1. i only gave this one try so maybe someone else can or has been able to do this.
2. the coil was probably larger than 5mm because when you scrunch the spacing together i think it might expand the inner diameter.
3. the juice channel side walls restrict the amount of cotton you can put in. this makes it so it pinches off the juice and also doesnt allow you to create a nice snug fit inside the coil/fill it all the way up with cotton.
4. in the pictures below i had to trim back the cotton a bit more to fit the deck into the tank but thats an error you can come across no matter the coil diameter.

i didnt really give it a chance after that and removed it. i went back to a 4mm spaced coil and lowered it more by clipping the legs a bit shorter so there is less of an angle needed for the cotton to go to the bottom of the juice channels. i may try to find a 4.5mm machine screw to try a larger coil again.

on the issue of leaking from below the tank, i think it may be juice going back through the air hole or possible even the coil leg holes and down and out where the screws are. i think the coil leg screw holes would make juice come out at the very top of the AFC ring on the outside though. ive had the latter situation as well.

 

[OhTheAgony]

so i tried out my 5mm spaced coil idea and not so good results. got some almost burny type hits even in TC.
notes:

1. i only gave this one try so maybe someone else can or has been able to do this.
2. the coil was probably larger than 5mm because when you scrunch the spacing together i think it might expand the inner diameter.
3. the juice channel side walls restrict the amount of cotton you can put in. this makes it so it pinches off the juice and also doesnt allow you to create a nice snug fit inside the coil/fill it all the way up with cotton.
4. in the pictures below i had to trim back the cotton a bit more to fit the deck into the tank but thats an error you can come across no matter the coil diameter.

View attachment 549684 View attachment 549685 View attachment 549686 View attachment 549687 View attachment 549688 View attachment 549689

i didnt really give it a chance after that and removed it. i went back to a 4mm spaced coil and lowered it more by clipping the legs a bit shorter so there is less of an angle needed for the cotton to go to the bottom of the juice channels. i may try to find a 4.5mm machine screw to try a larger coil again.

on the issue of leaking from below the tank, i think it may be juice going back through the air hole or possible even the coil leg holes and down and out where the screws are. i think the coil leg screw holes would make juice come out at the very top of the AFC ring on the outside though. ive had the latter situation as well.

It looks like a nice enough coil & wick. What kind of wire did you use?

As for point 3; just stuff as much cotton in the coil as needed and then trim what sticks out of the coil to match the thickness of the juice holes

Hadn't thought of the darned holes for the legs by the way, are you sure they go all the way through?

But I guess I can plug those up too if needed to be

 

[madLyfe]

It looks like a nice enough coil & wick. What kind of wire did you use?

i used 26g SS wire.

As for point 3; just stuff as much cotton in the coil as needed and then trim what sticks out of the coil to match the thickness of the juice holes

i know i didnt make this very clear. im saying that you cant wick the coil with enough cotton to fill it so its snug w/o the cotton pinching too tightly between the juice channel walls. i cant put the cotton in the coil first before i set the coil because i dry burn the coil after i set it, then i wick it.

Hadn't thought of the darned holes for the legs by the way, are you sure they go all the way through?

i have no idea if they go all the way through or not.

 

[OhTheAgony]

i used 26g SS wire.


i know i didnt make this very clear. im saying that you cant wick the coil with enough cotton to fill it so its snug w/o the cotton pinching too tightly between the juice channel walls. i cant put the cotton in the coil first before i set the coil because i dry burn the coil after i set it, then i wick it.


i have no idea if they go all the way through or not.

Ah ok, gotcha on point 3 now. I guess you could remove the coil after dry-burning to wick it but you'll probably risk breaking a leg or distorting it too much then.

I'll have to take my Bachelor apart tomorrow to clean it before I send it back anyways, I'll have a good look at all the little holes on the deck once it's stripped.

 

[man00ver]

in the pictures below i had to trim back the cotton a bit more to fit the deck into the tank but thats an error you can come across no matter the coil diameter.

I was going to remark that you have too much wick outside the cup! Trim it flush, or protruding about 1 mm from the slot, no more. This is probably where your restrictive wick compression is happening. Notice the low profile of the O-rings framing the threads; you don't want a lot of fabric out there. The juice will come to it.