EHPro mechanicals tips, tricks, pics, and nits

[michliu]

EHPro has started coming out with even more mechanicals following their stellar EA clone. Since Todd has sworn off reviewing clones, we are left to our own to figure these things out. A few pics to get the discussion started.

The EA clone in 18350 mode with the 18650 tube


The Bagua clone in 18350 mode

The magnetic switch Nzonic clone in 18350 mode.

 

[tagster]

Is the nZonic clone locking ring reverse threaded like the Bagua clone?

I really like the Bagua clone. Nice thickness, nice threading, and nice finish. The only shortcomings I found was the switch spring is weak and the mod will fire if you set it down. It will also wobble. Not a real issue for me since I believe you should always lock a mod (side, bottom, whatever) when you aren't using it. I need to mod the throw of the switch, since I prefer a little less throw in the switch.

 

[Technonut]

Bucky currently has 13 EA Mod clones in stock for $53.99 shipped...


EHPRO EA CLONE [EHPROEA] - $53.99 : Buckys Bargain Vaping, Discount Vaping Supplies

 

[nz1001]

copied over from the coop thread...

After brief use , I really like this bagua. Here is some feedback.



Pros:

Machining – solid SS, nicely polished -> easier mod from polish to brushed if you choose.
Threading – plain smooth without help from naolox or the sort.
conductivity – very good, out of the box it has slightly better v-drop (~0.05v on 0.81ohm) compare to sigelei 8w and 19e (the recent releases, also oob)
adjustable positive pin, comes with 2 extra different-length brass pins for varied battery types.
switch has reverse locking ring, reliable firing.​

cons:

The spring inside switch has resistance of ~0.3ohm , and it’s too soft. I replaced it with this one https://www.fasttech.com/products/1124700, re-shaped using 2 needle nose pliers. This little spring has great conductivity, and gives light throw while allowing the mod to stand without firing on its own. (Note: I added a copper washer to reduce the throw. You may choose to grind down the firing pin and add a thicker o-ring, to reduce further)


Stand-up without locking wobbles badly, even after the spring replacement. I believe the cause is this piece, the shank is too shallow.

​

All in all, great quality/price ratio.

Thanks again Michael. Now, how about brass next round?

 

[michliu]

Is the nZonic clone locking ring reverse threaded like the Bagua clone?

The locking ring on the Nzonic is reverse threaded.

 

[UncleChuck]

I really like the EH Pro Caravela Clone.



Brushed finish SS tube, plated brass end caps and switch. Adjustable threaded center pin, brass I believe (with additional pins of other lengths included) Smooth button that I have not had a single misfire on. I shimmed my switch so the travel is only about 1-2mm, and you simply touch the button anywhere and it fires strong. Two switch springs were included to tailor the pressure required to fire the switch as well.

It's more spendy than most other clones, but I feel it's well worth the money. Hits excellent straight out of the box, looks beautiful, and is built legit. I just can't wait until I can get my hands on an 18650 tube.

 

[the4thpower3]

I really like the EH Pro Caravela Clone.

Brushed finish SS tube, solid brass end caps and switch. Adjustable threaded center pin, brass I believe (with additional pins of other lengths included) Smooth button that I have not had a single misfire on. I shimmed my switch so the travel is only about 1-2mm, and you simply touch the button anywhere and it fires strong. Two switch springs were included to tailor the pressure required to fire the switch as well.

It's more spendy than most other clones, but I feel it's well worth the money. Hits excellent straight out of the box, looks beautiful, and is built legit. I just can't wait until I can get my hands on an 18650 tube.

Def touched on the good points, I'll mention the other.

I also I have the EHpro DHX016
(I believe they've come out with a newer "Caravella-like" model - it's so hard to tell with these china manufacturers - they just keep changing stuff all the time).

Anyhow.
I'd be happier if I had spent less on it. I really just jumped the gun - impulse issue.
I think it's price point should be less than $50 considering the wealth of other quality china mech tubes out there.
I would've been much happier spending the $85 if it came with 3x 18- tubes.

The end caps/switch are brass - plated in copper - plated in gold. I started sanding on mine and colors started to change...
yes - starting at gold, to copper, to brass.

I shimmed my button as well and modded springs - but it still does the eiffel tower when stood without the lock on.

I had to deepen the airflow grooves to run bottom air-fed attys/tanks; the grooves were much too shallow for sufficient airflow.
If the atty isn't flush mounted it will wobble due to the center pin design. Switching pins or swapping batteries is annoying when
trying to do a quick atty change.

Sanded off the gold down to copper.

Top cap sanded off gold, sanded off copper, down to brass (did the same with the bottom of the switch)

I plan on sanding it all down to brass eventually; I actually wish it was all copper - I like the copper color.

I think that my money would've been better spent putting it towards a GP Paps 2.5 (if they were ever in stock...)

I'd like to get my hands on one of their Nzonic "alikes" (for the right price). Seen any in the US??
I'm not into the co-op thing.

 

[UncleChuck]

What the heck?

I'm confident my caps are solid brass and not plated. I'm already getting typical brass tarnish and smell on the caps, worse on the bottom cap and button where my hands touch more frequently. I also filed a large notch in the threaded portion of the bottom cap to allow venting. In stock condition the battery bottom seals against the delrin insert and stops airflow, so the filed out groove makes a break in that seal allowing it to vent. The groove is far deeper into the metal than any plating would be, and it's just one solid material, no copper layer or anything else.

I also have some fairly deep scratches on the bottom of the button, same thing, solid through and no layering.

Quite the mystery! I heard before someone say that the caps were gold plated, and I thought it was BS since I knew mine wasn't, but this would explain it.

Now I'm curious how someone could figure out if theirs are solid or plated before buying it, personally I prefer the solid, but I have to admit yours sanded to the copper layer looks damn nice.

I totally agree on the price, it's higher than it SHOULD be for sure. I'm very picky about looks and shape on my devices, and finding a mech I like is very difficult, so I was happy to overpay a bit to get something I would be totally happy with.

I did mod it a bit, but I also had to mod my edz modz avenger v3 to fit my taste (get rid of the gap in the telescopic section when in 18650 mode, and to increase how far the button sticks out to make it easier to fire) and it cost at least twice as much.

 

[UncleChuck]

OK, so I was totally, totally wrong, they are plated. I took mine apart and started sanding some non-visible areas and I'm getting that copper color coming through. What the heck. I feel foolish. I even took a loupe and light to the groove I made and I can't see any other layers, but they are definitely there.

My doubt on the plating (on mine) was due to the fact I was getting tarnish, but I stupidly ignored that it's pure gold that's so hard to tarnish. I'm sure they are using an extremely low karat plating which will tarnish a lot easier. Still... what's the point in gold plating if you get tarnish after a few weeks of use?

Thanks for the heads up 4thpower, learn something new every day. I wasn't doubting you at all, just figured mine was a one-off or something that they forgot to plate. I'm be sure to amend my original post, sorry for the misinformation guys.

EDIT:

I took a closer look with the loupe and light at my button, I sanded some off the top and it's definitely copper coming through, but oddly on the bottom of the button, there is natural wear around the edges that has silver color showing through. I am unable to reproduce this silver color by removing the plating in other areas.

What would you make of this? Possibly a layer between the copper and gold that's so thin it wears off when sanding immediately, but with normal pocket wear can be revealed? I don't want to sand the silver areas for fear of revealing the copper so I'm left to speculate.

I'm all sorts of confused now.

 

[stardust]

someone with ehpro ea mod with extra tips

 

[Bern Diesel]

I saw the Ehpro Nzonic clone today at a local B&M and was impressed! Anyone have any feedback on them? Btw, they had EHPro Nzonics, Bagua, Chi Yoo and Caravela clones. All ranging from $50-80

 

[michliu]

I saw the Ehpro Nzonic clone today at a local B&M and was impressed! Anyone have any feedback on them? Btw, they had EHPro Nzonics, Bagua, Chi Yoo and Caravela clones. All ranging from $50-80

I have the Nzonic. The good: solid machining, good performance in terms of voltage drop, very smooth button, floating center pin, no misfire, "crystal" in the button. The not so good: button throw is a little long, won't stand without firing, magnetic switch makes it particularly long (but this is the case with all magnetic switches). I've been using mine for 24 hours and really like it so far. I also have the Bagua and EA clone. All solid devices and twice as good as any Sigelei I have owned in terms of quality and performance. Which is why they cost twice as much.

 

[Bern Diesel]

Thanks for the feedback. Still not sure which one to get now. They all looked so nice. Same shop had Sigelei clones too and they just weren't on the same level. Not the same quality or weight. I've never tried either one so not sure about performance difference.

 

[michliu]

Thanks for the feedback. Still not sure which one to get now. They all looked so nice. Same shop had Sigelei clones too and they just weren't on the same level. Not the same quality or weight. I've never tried either one so not sure about performance difference.

Of the three I have, the EA clone is tops. Great reviews from Todd and Vapesquad. Lots of ECF members say this is the best Chinese clone out there. Between the bagua and the Nzonic, I would give the slight edge to the Bagua, just because of it's smaller length and brass contacts, but all are very solid. I vape @ 0.8 - 1.0 ohm coils and the performance difference between the EHPro's and Sigeleis are noticeable in the last third of the battery life.

 

[bfrie]

Thanks for the feedback. Still not sure which one to get now. They all looked so nice. Same shop had Sigelei clones too and they just weren't on the same level. Not the same quality or weight. I've never tried either one so not sure about performance difference.

To make it even harder can I remind you about their dhx ts and chi you clone?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4

 

[the4thpower3]

I took a closer look with the loupe and light at my button, I sanded some off the top and it's definitely copper coming through, but oddly on the bottom of the button, there is natural wear around the edges that has silver color showing through. I am unable to reproduce this silver color by removing the plating in other areas.

What would you make of this? Possibly a layer between the copper and gold that's so thin it wears off when sanding immediately, but with normal pocket wear can be revealed? I don't want to sand the silver areas for fear of revealing the copper so I'm left to speculate.

I'm all sorts of confused now.

I'm really not sure where you are getting silver from. The copper/brass blending may look a bit silver in bright light. I dunno.

Well, after that I decided to go all the way.
So I removed all the copper, which took quite a bit more sanding than the thin gold plating.
It shined up pretty nicely.
Decided to throw an agr carto tank on with a driptip designs brass dt on it.
I'm really happy with the way it looks now. Definitely better than the gold plating. Just have to deal with more tarnish...

 

[stardust]

would the ehpro chi you have the same issues as the other clones out on market?


1 – The adjustment screws pins on top are short. This was designed using protected batteries. If you are using unprotected batteries like most mechanical mod users, the pin will get loose when you try to make it fit. It might work but once unattended, or if placed on a vehicle with vibrations, could get lose, cut the battery insulation, and cause a short leading to a leak – or worse, an explosion. THIS COULD HAPPEN EVEN WITHOUT AN ATOMIZER AND THE SAFETY ON!!!

2 – The bottom cover/switch assembly wobbles. This WOULD (as opposed to “could”) also cause an accidental misfire. Again, fire, injury, or property damage risks as a result of leaking or explosion. This could happen only if an atomizer is attached. EVEN WITH THE SAFETY ON, IT WOULD STILL FIRE BECAUSE THE CONTACT ROD INSIDE IS ALSO TILTED!!!

3 – THE WORSE. The bottom cover does not have any insulation. If you use those gray Panasonic batteries, IT WILL FIRE AS SOON AS YOU GET THE CAP ON IF YOU HAVE AN ATOMIZER ON!!! The gray Panasonics do not have the extra insulation at the bottom. (The bottom is exposed.) Even other brands are susceptible to this is you microcoil or sub-ohm because the battery shrink tube shrinks when heated.

I found a fix for it. Unfortunately, I still need it manufactured – IN CHINA! Unless one of you guys can make me custom brass bolts or has access to specialized small machinery hardware. Message me if you could help me expedite this process.

If you already have one of these Chi Yous, make sure that you use protected batteries. Also, go to Home depot and buy O-rings to be placed on the inside perimeter of the bottom cover. After all your adjustments are done, LOCTITE (Blue) that damn switch so it won’t get loose!!!

 

[Gummy Bare]

Has anyone replaced the magnets on the nzonic with stronger ones yet? I kinda wanna do that. And also figure out a way with maybe some o-rings to reduce the throw in the switch and make the locking ring not show threads when turned into the lock position. Let me know you did it and what magnets you used.

I can't seem to get the button apart... seems all glued up or something.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

 

[michliu]

Has anyone replaced the magnets on the nzonic with stronger ones yet? I kinda wanna do that. And also figure out a way with maybe some o-rings to reduce the throw in the switch and make the locking ring not show threads when turned into the lock position. Let me know you did it and what magnets you used.

I can't seem to get the button apart... seems all glued up or something.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

The switch isn't glued, but it did take a gentle touch with Herculean strength. I wedged a pair of needle nose pliers on the magnetic end, with a towel to prevent scratching, and used one of those rubber jar opener pads on the switch, it took some effort, but it did come apart. I put a 2mm thick oring under the magnet side of the firing pin. It's now about a 1.5 mm throw and the locking ring threads don't show. Akya posted in the coop thread about magnets he added.

 

[Gummy Bare]

The switch isn't glued, but it did take a gentle touch with Herculean strength. I wedged a pair of needle nose pliers on the magnetic end, with a towel to prevent scratching, and used one of those rubber jar opener pads on the switch, it took some effort, but it did come apart. I put a 2mm thick oring under the magnet side of the firing pin. It's now about a 1.5 mm throw and the locking ring threads don't show. Akya posted in the coop thread about magnets he added.

Nice, I'll give it the old college try. Hofully I can find the correct magnets. I'll have to find the post and see if where to get them was mentioned.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::