Eleaf iStick "pico"
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I put the Arctic Fox firmware on a Pico the day before yesterday and liking it a lot. It's nice to have the time. It's nice to see a battery percentage. I now have puff timer that I an reset with the buttons. At the moment the display is set up to show max watts and max temp for the last puff. The vape is the same as always but I'm understanding how it vapes better. A 300 degree puf that dense is warmer than a 400 degree puff that's reletively dry. I knew that but it's informative to see the numbers too. I'm a little surprised eleaf didn't do this. I'm sure there's more to be learned. Having a good time with it anyway.
The firmware has made my vtc mini more relevent because the bigger screen displays more information.
The firmware has made my vtc mini more relevent because the bigger screen displays more information.
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You'll have to go the RBA route for that. Smok doesn't make, or appear to plan making SS coils for it. I think that's shortsighted on the Part of Smok as there would be a market for them. Perhaps they feel the cloud market they believe this is targeted to are not TC users. They might be right, but not a business decision I would make.
Am using (or...trying to use)...a Cubis Pro with BF SS316-1.0ohm heads (I think they're Stainless Steel)...
In playing around with it more (Thanx to the GREAT suggestions)...when I remove/replace tank => TemperatureSS => I can set Temperature 200º and 22 Watts...but...when I hit the Fire Button it reverts back to VW...
[It was probably happening all along...(I just didn't notice)...and why to someone who has never been over 10Watts...the 22Watts seemed so HOT...]
My Pico "reads" the coil as 1.43Ω...wonder if that isn't the problem (since "any time the coil is close to or over 1Ω it usually kicks it out of TC mode") ???
..
I have some of those coils I have been meaning to try to see if I want to stock up on more for my roomie (I dont do MTL). I will try and pull out a box of those coils and have her try one to see how she likes them in vw mode, and see if I can get a pico to run one of them in tc mode when I get a chance.Am using (or...trying to use)...a Cubis Pro with BF SS316-1.0ohm heads (I think they're Stainless Steel)...
In playing around with it more (Thanx to the GREAT suggestions)...when I remove/replace tank => TemperatureSS => I can set Temperature 200º and 22 Watts...but...when I hit the Fire Button it reverts back to VW...
[It was probably happening all along...(I just didn't notice)...and why to someone who has never been over 10Watts...the 22Watts seemed so HOT...]
My Pico "reads" the coil as 1.43Ω...wonder if that isn't the problem (since "any time the coil is close to or over 1Ω it usually kicks it out of TC mode") ???
..
Am using (or...trying to use)...a Cubis Pro with BF SS316-1.0ohm heads (I think they're Stainless Steel)...
In playing around with it more (Thanx to the GREAT suggestions)...when I remove/replace tank => TemperatureSS => I can set Temperature 200º and 22 Watts...but...when I hit the Fire Button it reverts back to VW...
[It was probably happening all along...(I just didn't notice)...and why to someone who has never been over 10Watts...the 22Watts seemed so HOT...]
My Pico "reads" the coil as 1.43Ω...wonder if that isn't the problem (since "any time the coil is close to or over 1Ω it usually kicks it out of TC mode") ???
..
If the cold resistance on a 1 ohm rated coil is reading in at 1.43 ohm, that's a problem. A factory coil variance of ~10%, in this case 0.1 ohm, is to be expected. But 1.0 to a 1.43 ohm resistance is not supposed to be. Does the coil read the same on other mods? If so you probably have a bad coil. if it reads 1 ohm like it should on another mod, there's something up with your Pico. My bet, the coil.
It is important the resistance is read while the coil is at room temperature as resistance will go up as it heats (which is how TC works).
The way the Cubis tank makes the positive contact inside the juice may add to the resistance enough to make TC flaky. Before giving up I would try the BF 0.6Ω coils, they're MTL and SS also.
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so EITHER it is NOT a SS coil wire and it jumps back to WATTS -or-
the coil is faulty...
I'd go with a bad coil OR a bad connection (user error) take it apart, clean, inspect, reassemble
so when it jumps OUT OF TC and back to Watts, you SHOULD be at the Watts setting you had set previously... (10w)
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PICO - Resistance range: 0.05-1.5ohm (TC modes)
--
do you have another coil to try ?
keep at it - IT IS WORTH IT
so EITHER it is NOT a SS coil wire and it jumps back to WATTS -or-
the coil is faulty...
I'd go with a bad coil OR a bad connection (user error) take it apart, clean, inspect, reassemble
so when it jumps OUT OF TC and back to Watts, you SHOULD be at the Watts setting you had set previously... (10w)
----------------
PICO - Resistance range: 0.05-1.5ohm (TC modes)
--
do you have another coil to try ?
keep at it - IT IS WORTH IT
Are any of you rebuilding these coils? Or am I the only one?
At $2 cost per coil is it really worth the time to rebuild? I am talking about the coils for the Melo III Mini EC Sub Ohm coils which came with the Pico kit.
I DON'T mess with the Top-Threaded BF coil at all - jus trying to get my `ole buddy gerrymi on trac...
was wondering who I was talking at ? (avatar threw me)
It is a personal challenge for me that I enjoy trying to conquer. It's not necessarily for saving money
do you have another coil to try ?
keep at it - IT IS WORTH IT
Because I have about a 1,000 "BF SS316-0.6Ω" coils...(I have multiple eGo AIO's for out and about)...
I stuck one in my Cubis Pro...
Pico reads it as 0.63Ω...
22Watts and 350º works GREAT...and the Pico "stays" in TC-SS...
Still playing around with it, of course...but I can detect a difference between TC and VW...
Thanx to yunz all for the help, tips and suggestions...
..
Because I have about a 1,000 "BF SS316-0.6Ω" coils...(I have multiple eGo AIO's for out and about)...
I stuck one in my Cubis Pro...
Pico reads it as 0.63Ω...
22Watts and 350º works GREAT...and the Pico "stays" in TC-SS...
Still playing around with it, of course...but I can detect a difference between TC and VW...
Thanx to yunz all for the help, tips and suggestions...
..
hey GROOVY !
- you got it to workSOOOOOOOO COOL !
yepper, now let it 'break-in' and no longer worry about dry hits and burning up a coil...
" tastes funny " "oh wow, I'm out of juice" TEMP CONTROL to the rescue...
then when the mood strikes ; ± a few °F to heat it up OR cool it down...
good deal buddy, glad to hear
Currently running around 15 RTAs in temp mode on a wide variety of mods from picos, VCT minis, dicodes, yihi etc and works just fine even for tight M2L. No reason why it should work better on big, cloudy builds. Maybe i could help you get it working?!?! What rig you have and what sort of builds have you tried (and what TC-capable mod)??
It's been awhile seen I tried TC. Last time was on my iStick Picos, using SS TC mode, using SS 316L wire. I mostly did single coil builds, but have also tried using double wrapped wire (single coil) builds as well. These I've done using RTAs like the Mini Goblin V3, the Serpent Mini, as well as the Kayfun Mini V3. My TC builds were not all that different from my non-TC MTL builds, except they typically had to be lower ohm to run in TC mode at all on the Pico - which does not seem to read above ohm SS TC builds very well. So the builds ranged from between 0.5 to 1.0 ohm or so. I would start with relatively low wattage and temp settings, then work my way up, playing around with both as I went up. The fact that I regularly chain vape made getting the settings right for consistency particularly difficult.
I don't think any of the RTAs I used were all that great at getting a consistent ohm reading from. They probably all have imprecise connection issues, especially as they are being vaped on, refilled, etc. I tended to get an inconsistent vape, even more inconsistent than I normally get when not using TC. That is why in the end I just gave up on MTL TC builds. For awhile I continued to use SS 316L in my non-TC mode builds, but quickly dropped that for A1 Kanthal, which provided a more consistent, better tasting vape - with fewer dry hits.
I could see how RDAs would probably be a bit easier to work with for MTL TC use, but I am a chain vaper, and vape on the road frequently - so I was never attracted to using RDAs. They just don't seem practical for how I vape. There are also probably some sub-ohm only RTAs that provide better connection consistency, but I really need a reasonably tight draw (though not TOO tight) for decent MTL vaping. Even most "hybrid" tanks, that can supposedly do DTL and MTL well, do not provide a good enough MTL draw for those that only MTL, though there are many sub-ohm vapers who seem to think otherwise. I personally think those folks have just plain forgotten what a good mouth-to-lung vape should actually feel like.
You may want to give it another try - https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...gh-temps-even-in-tootle-puffers.791711/unread
I never got into TC until I started sub-ohming and DL so I am not sure what mod/tank might be best for above ohm tc mtl vaping but I am sure there are plenty of people that sub ohm mtl vape in that 0.5 - 1.0 ohm range.
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