Heard back from Dave " rockymountainvape " & he confirmed he will carry the "two new colors" of the Pico! Yay! 
Will update with an ETA when he gets back to me.
Will update with an ETA when he gets back to me.
Eleaf iStick "pico"
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i dunno about that. i've only had about 4 total days with my Sig213. i'm not sure who said TC was more accurate in the Pico. i find both to work very well with my SS316L builds. i no longer use any nickel or Ti. i dont have the tools and instruments to measure accuracy, but in TC mode, i vape both between 400-450 and have a nice consistent vape with both mods.
i use my Pico mostly on the road driving or out and about. it's so compact and convenient. i also like to use it around 40w or less. anything more, the battery life is short as to be expected.
the Sig213 has the good battery life, obviously because of the dual 18650. it also just feels much more premium in the hand and in the looks department.
thus far, the Pico has my vote for single 18650 regulated mod of the year, and the Sig213 has my vote for best dual 18650. there may be better mods, but with price, form factor, weight, size...etc. i think these two are going to be hard to beat. (so long as their chips hold up over time)
Going back to that comment I was replying to, I guess I misread "very smooth and feels pretty accurate compared to..." as you saying the Pico being smoother and more accurate lol. Sorry about that.
The 213w does seem to be a kickin' mod too, especially considering that it's probably the most compact and lightest of the current crop of 200 watt twin batt mods.
But ATM, I haven't even begun to really push the Pico's performance envelope so wanting the 213 is more "ooh new shiny" than anything.
I do agree though, the Pico is pretty awesome for what it is - a tiny single 18650 mod that literally punches way above its weight.
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yah man. if you don't push higher wattage at all, the Sig213 is not really necessary. but if you are in the market for a dual 18650 mod that has a quality build, small form factor and lightweight (for a dual 18650), then the Sig213 is a great choice IMO. i've pushed mine to 120w so far with a Boreas tank w/clapton build. but i've mostly been vaping it around 50-70w using the moonshot and boreas and currently run spaced SS316L TC builds in them. the claptons with that kind of power was zapping through juice too fast
My pico finally acted up on me. My setup is below in the signiture area. I'm always in TC mode with the ohms locked and the +/- buttons locked. A few days ago I got a dry puff, which never happens. The Pico defaulted to watts mode and read the coil at 1.54 instead of 1.34 ohms. I put the rda on a vtc mini and it read the coil at the correct 1.36 ohm. That small discrepancy is normal. What seemed to resolve the issue was disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Since that incident my Pico is reading the coil correctly and working without issues.
Guys how he heck do I change the manual tcr value on this thing?
First impressions were great. Since then I've had it flake on an atomizer I use and read no atomizer a couple times.
I need to upgrade he firmware I guess from what I glanced here. But I need to figure out how tonier my nife48 wire on this thing.
It's amazing to see his firm factor and function for the price. Own two AC mini m classes and while the temperature is definitely off s but it works well. It's not quite at their level but it's a great out an about substitute that's smaller and lighter. I'm someone who pockets their kit.
The manual link goes to a weird site via Google search so I appreciate the info on how to set my own values.
Edit I see it's just like the evic mini. Power off. Hold positive and power on. Negative changes memory bank. Positive changes number. Long press to exit the mode.
Is there a way to see what firmware is on there without connecting to w computer? Does the upgraded firmware if there is one offer anything substantial ?
First impressions were great. Since then I've had it flake on an atomizer I use and read no atomizer a couple times.
I need to upgrade he firmware I guess from what I glanced here. But I need to figure out how tonier my nife48 wire on this thing.
It's amazing to see his firm factor and function for the price. Own two AC mini m classes and while the temperature is definitely off s but it works well. It's not quite at their level but it's a great out an about substitute that's smaller and lighter. I'm someone who pockets their kit.
The manual link goes to a weird site via Google search so I appreciate the info on how to set my own values.
Edit I see it's just like the evic mini. Power off. Hold positive and power on. Negative changes memory bank. Positive changes number. Long press to exit the mode.
Is there a way to see what firmware is on there without connecting to w computer? Does the upgraded firmware if there is one offer anything substantial ?
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from the OFF position
clk the Fire button 20 times qwik
it will display the current device version...
Advice on recharging the battery please….
The icon shows battery level is down to about 40%…is there an ideal level to recharge or just wait for it to shut down automatically?
The icon shows battery level is down to about 40%…is there an ideal level to recharge or just wait for it to shut down automatically?
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The quicker you recharge the better IINM. These aren't NIMH batts where you have to discharge them down first before recharging.
That said, it's completely fine to run them down until the Pico shuts down. Someone mentioned that the Pico cuts off at 3.1v, which is a tad low but should be fine for most high amp hybrid batteries out there.
Myself I haven't had the chance to run my cells dry on the Pico yet. The lowest I've been is around 20-ish percent and even that was due to dry burning me coils hard.
I run LG HG2s in mine…just checked the voltage by oppressing 'fire' and '-' buttons and it says 3.48V
Maybe time to swap them out. But what is the commonly accepted baseline recommended for recharging to commence? 3.2V?
Maybe time to swap them out. But what is the commonly accepted baseline recommended for recharging to commence? 3.2V?
The lowest voltage we can run them down to before the cells start to degrade depends on the cell itself. Check out Mooch's post for details, but 3.2 should be an acceptable baseline IMHO.
TBH though, the 3.15-3.1 that the Pico drives them down to at the indicated 0% should be fine for most 20A-25A cells.
Anyway, I got bored and did this:
Turns out the Pico is pretty easy to disassemble, at least for basic maintenance/repairs anyway.
Some interesting observations:
The main firing button is NOT spring-loaded. It apparently uses some sort of silicone thingy. Not sure if this is good or bad for the long run though.
The 510 connector on the other hand looks sturdy enough with sufficient looking sealing. Not sure if the bottom part is pressfit, glued (*gasp*) or screwed to the top part with the threads though, but they *are* definitely a two part affair (different colours).
The body is an entirely one piece cast aluminium shell... which isn't that surprising.
The +- buttons, unlike the fire button, *is* spring-loaded. I did stretch the spring a bit to make it less wiggly, and it does work.
I actually opened my Pico up to adjust the screen on my unit, which was slightly offset underneath the screen outer cover (which is very thick plastic - maybe a magnifier?).
Apparently the screen is mounted on a rail (check out a glimpse of the screen+rail assembly in the #2 photo) I did manage to move it around slightly (and stuck some plastic bits to hold it in place)... and now it's at least *slightly* better centered than before.
So, mission accomplished. Woo.
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Omg can't believe you disassembled & got it all back together kudos to you!The lowest voltage we can run them down to before the cells start to degrade depends on the cell itself. Check out Mooch's post for details, but 3.2 should be an acceptable baseline IMHO.
TBH though, the 3.15-3.1 that the Pico drives them down to at the indicated 0% should be fine for most 20A-25A cells.
Anyway, I got bored and did this:
Turns out the Pico is pretty easy to disassemble, at least for basic maintenance/repairs anyway.
Some interesting observations:
The main firing button is NOT spring-loaded. It apparently uses some sort of silicone thingy. Not sure if this is good or bad for the long run though.
The 510 connector on the other hand looks sturdy enough with sufficient looking sealing. Not sure if the bottom part is pressfit, glued (*gasp*) or screwed to the top part with the threads though, but they *are* definitely a two part affair (different colours).
The body is an entirely one piece cast aluminium shell... which isn't that surprising.
The +- buttons, unlike the fire button, *is* spring-loaded. I did stretch the spring a bit to make it less wiggly, and it does work.
I actually opened my Pico up to adjust the screen on my unit, which was slightly offset underneath the screen outer cover (which is very thick plastic - maybe a magnifier?).
Apparently the screen is mounted on a rail (check out a glimpse of the screen+rail assembly in the #2 photo) I did manage to move it around slightly (and stuck some plastic bits to hold it in place)... and now it's at least *slightly* better centered than before.
So, mission accomplished. Woo.
Omg can't believe you disassembled & got it all back together kudos to you!
Well they do say idle hands are the Devil's workshop lol.
It just turns out the devil in me is rather adapt at basic gadget disassembly (and re-assembly, thankfully) lol.
Also, as I said, the fact that the Pico's really easy to open up helps too.
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The higher the voltage the fewer amps are needed to generate the watts. A charged up battery is not working as hard as a depleted one so less stress, longer service life. Volts x Amps = Watts
The lowest voltage we can run them down to before the cells start to degrade depends on the cell itself. Check out Mooch's post for details, but 3.2 should be an acceptable baseline IMHO.
TBH though, the 3.15-3.1 that the Pico drives them down to at the indicated 0% should be fine for most 20A-25A cells.
Anyway, I got bored and did this:
Turns out the Pico is pretty easy to disassemble, at least for basic maintenance/repairs anyway.
Some interesting observations:
The main firing button is NOT spring-loaded. It apparently uses some sort of silicone thingy. Not sure if this is good or bad for the long run though.
The 510 connector on the other hand looks sturdy enough with sufficient looking sealing. Not sure if the bottom part is pressfit, glued (*gasp*) or screwed to the top part with the threads though, but they *are* definitely a two part affair (different colours).
The body is an entirely one piece cast aluminium shell... which isn't that surprising.
The +- buttons, unlike the fire button, *is* spring-loaded. I did stretch the spring a bit to make it less wiggly, and it does work.
I actually opened my Pico up to adjust the screen on my unit, which was slightly offset underneath the screen outer cover (which is very thick plastic - maybe a magnifier?).
Apparently the screen is mounted on a rail (check out a glimpse of the screen+rail assembly in the #2 photo) I did manage to move it around slightly (and stuck some plastic bits to hold it in place)... and now it's at least *slightly* better centered than before.
So, mission accomplished. Woo.
Wow. The thing that interested me most is the way the negative connection is made to the top cap. No wire, instead the PCB makes direct contact with slots cast into the top cap. I've never seen that before in any mod. Really smart design for keeping everything compact and secure.
Great pics @eiraku. Thanks for posting.
The board traces running to the slots on the top cap would not be a solid or stable connection. I think they just use that to provide a larger emf ground plane on the mod.Wow. The thing that interested me most is the way the negative connection is made to the top cap. No wire, instead the PCB makes direct contact with slots cast into the top cap. I've never seen that before in any mod. Really smart design for keeping everything compact and secure.
Great pics @eiraku. Thanks for posting.
If you look at the other picture there is a black wire going from the back board to the cap.
Just my
Does anyone know if these will work in the Melo3?
$2.03 Authentic Eleaf MELO 2/iJust 2 Replacement ECR Coil Head - 1ohm(20-30W) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.03 Authentic Eleaf MELO 2/iJust 2 Replacement ECR Coil Head - 1ohm(20-30W) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
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