Eleaf iStick "pico"
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I just picked one of these up and was hoping you guy could help me with the settings. I got some of the Ni coils for the melo and set it to 40w 430f. I can it it for about 1 sec before the tc goes off. I switched it over to m1 set at 600 and it's seems better (those does seem to shut of faster the my d2 did). Is this the right way to have it set up? Also do i need to lock the resistance?
The board traces running to the slots on the top cap would not be a solid or stable connection. I think they just use that to provide a larger emf ground plane on the mod.
If you look at the other picture there is a black wire going from the back board to the cap.
View attachment 554695
Just my
Derp. Really had me going there.
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Thanks for disassembling the device and sharing pictures. If it's still disassembled take some more pictures and show them or if there are some you didn't post add those. Thanks again.The lowest voltage we can run them down to before the cells start to degrade depends on the cell itself. Check out Mooch's post for details, but 3.2 should be an acceptable baseline IMHO.
TBH though, the 3.15-3.1 that the Pico drives them down to at the indicated 0% should be fine for most 20A-25A cells.
Anyway, I got bored and did this:
Turns out the Pico is pretty easy to disassemble, at least for basic maintenance/repairs anyway.
Some interesting observations:
The main firing button is NOT spring-loaded. It apparently uses some sort of silicone thingy. Not sure if this is good or bad for the long run though.
The 510 connector on the other hand looks sturdy enough with sufficient looking sealing. Not sure if the bottom part is pressfit, glued (*gasp*) or screwed to the top part with the threads though, but they *are* definitely a two part affair (different colours).
The body is an entirely one piece cast aluminium shell... which isn't that surprising.
The +- buttons, unlike the fire button, *is* spring-loaded. I did stretch the spring a bit to make it less wiggly, and it does work.
I actually opened my Pico up to adjust the screen on my unit, which was slightly offset underneath the screen outer cover (which is very thick plastic - maybe a magnifier?).
Apparently the screen is mounted on a rail (check out a glimpse of the screen+rail assembly in the #2 photo) I did manage to move it around slightly (and stuck some plastic bits to hold it in place)... and now it's at least *slightly* better centered than before.
So, mission accomplished. Woo.
My mind is on stockpiling lately. If I had to pick mods to stockpile today they would be the vtc mini and pico. I believe the weak link in these devices is the fire button. I've learned from the vtc mini puff counter I could be pressing that button 200,000 times a year. If the button goes 400,000 clicks that's only 2 years. That button assembly on the board is probably generic. So could it be desoldered and replaced if mods are hard to get because of the Federal Drug Administration?
The right battery depends on the max watts setting you use. 3.2 volts x 25 amps = about 75 watts. That's why a 25 amp battery is recommended. If you are going to use an LG HG2 then 3.2 volts x 20 amps = about 60 watts. So don't go above 60 watts with a 20 amp battery. I never go above 3.2 x 10 amp = 30 watts so my HG2's still have plenty of head room.
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I love the look of the serpent mini on the pico. I've been debating getting it and this may have made up my mind.
The sales guy at the local B&M tossed me a roll of 26g Ni200 as I walked through the door the other day, "Have a gift" he says... I said thanks for the wire, now I only need 50 wraps to get a 0.1 ohm coil... 
So I put 10 wraps of it on a 2.5mm mandrel for a whopping 0.08 ohm coil and mounted that in the Russian 3.0 just for Sh*ts & Giggles... I wicked it up with Rayon, primed it and put the tank back on the base. Locked the resistance in at 0.08, 460F/35W and proceeded to take a vape. I was VERY impressed that it worked perfectly, with lots of snapping and popping from that spaced coil. It's on a second tank full of Golden Tobacco now.
Since SS316L, SS430 and Ni200 work excellent on the Pico, I figured I would try some Unkamen Ti. Wrapped up a 26g 8 wrap on 2.5mm for 0.31 ohms and installed that into the FeV3. Wicked, primed and filled the tank. With the Pico all locked and set, I proceeded to take a vape with full expectation of another excellent build. Only to find the Pico hit Temperature Protection almost immediately producing a very weak and dissatisfying vape. After the FeV cooled I popped it on the iPV D2 and it worked perfectly. If Ti doesn't work properly on the Pico, it is no big deal as I don't use it much these days since the SS316L & SS430 came around, but was still good to test.
I have since taken the Ti build out of the FeV and installed an identical Ni200 build that I have in the Russian 3.0. The FeV now works perfectly on the Pico in TC Ni mode. I might try a Ti build in the SQuape xDream or Tube RTA when they arrive.
If anyone else tries a Ti build in an RTA and gets great results, please post the working build. It is possible the Pico didn't like the 0.31 ohm coil, but I doubt it.
So I put 10 wraps of it on a 2.5mm mandrel for a whopping 0.08 ohm coil and mounted that in the Russian 3.0 just for Sh*ts & Giggles... I wicked it up with Rayon, primed it and put the tank back on the base. Locked the resistance in at 0.08, 460F/35W and proceeded to take a vape. I was VERY impressed that it worked perfectly, with lots of snapping and popping from that spaced coil. It's on a second tank full of Golden Tobacco now.
Since SS316L, SS430 and Ni200 work excellent on the Pico, I figured I would try some Unkamen Ti. Wrapped up a 26g 8 wrap on 2.5mm for 0.31 ohms and installed that into the FeV3. Wicked, primed and filled the tank. With the Pico all locked and set, I proceeded to take a vape with full expectation of another excellent build. Only to find the Pico hit Temperature Protection almost immediately producing a very weak and dissatisfying vape.
After the FeV cooled I popped it on the iPV D2 and it worked perfectly. If Ti doesn't work properly on the Pico, it is no big deal as I don't use it much these days since the SS316L & SS430 came around, but was still good to test.I have since taken the Ti build out of the FeV and installed an identical Ni200 build that I have in the Russian 3.0. The FeV now works perfectly on the Pico in TC Ni mode. I might try a Ti build in the SQuape xDream or Tube RTA when they arrive.
If anyone else tries a Ti build in an RTA and gets great results, please post the working build. It is possible the Pico didn't like the 0.31 ohm coil, but I doubt it.
Lynn, let me know what you think if you try these coils. I bought two, but have not tried them yet, myself.
Since SS316L, SS430 and Ni200 work excellent on the Pico, I figured I would try some Unkamen Ti. Wrapped up a 26g 8 wrap on 2.5mm for 0.31 ohms and installed that into the FeV3. Wicked, primed and filled the tank. With the Pico all locked and set, I proceeded to take a vape with full expectation of another excellent build. Only to find the Pico hit
Temperature Protection almost immediately producing a very weak and dissatisfying vape.
After the FeV cooled I popped it on the iPV D2 and it worked perfectly. If Ti doesn't work properly on the Pico, it is no big deal as I don't use it much these days since the SS316L & SS430 came around, but was still good to test.
I have since taken the Ti build out of the FeV and installed an identical Ni200 build that I have in the Russian 3.0. The FeV now works perfectly on the Pico in TC Ni mode. I might try a Ti build in the SQuape xDream or Tube RTA when they arrive.
If anyone else tries a Ti build in an RTA and gets great results, please post the working build. It is possible the Pico didn't like the 0.31 ohm coil, but I doubt it.
I don't know, but sounds like that is the point where you need to go into the TCR function so to recalibrate TC output some...??
I've played with mine SOME, but all over the place and wasn't interested enuff to follow thru with TCR settings...
I only use Ti to TC (all devices)
Wow. The thing that interested me most is the way the negative connection is made to the top cap. No wire, instead the PCB makes direct contact with slots cast into the top cap. I've never seen that before in any mod. Really smart design for keeping everything compact and secure.
Great pics @eiraku. Thanks for posting.
I think all the board legs do is securing the board and maybe grounding. I think...
Oh-oh... Ninja-ed by @TrollDragon lol. Somehow I failed to notice an entire other page of replies lol.
For me, what's interesting is that eLeaf somehow avoided the inclination that I see most of the other Shenzhen folk have with stuffing the internals of a mod (or any electronics really) to the point of bursting.
On the Pico, there is a LOT of excess room in the circuitry compartment, which probably would help ease disassembly (it does), mitigate drop-shock and limit heat conduction to your hand (plus maybe even aid in heat ventilation).
Probably anyway lol.
Unfortunately, the Pico's long reassembled (hey, it's my *only* daily driver folks... what would I have to toot on if it's still in pieces lol), so maybe next time for more photos.
@LynnNC: FT coupons? You mean like this:
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I ended up tossing the stock Melo 3 Mini tank, well, selling it cheap.
I don't think it has very good flavour personally and gets quite hot including the vape and tip. The mod itself however is an excellent piece of kit, I'm using it with Nautilus Mini atm and soon with Triton 2 Mini for tootle puffing.
I have tried the Atlantis 2 and Cleito tanks which both also ran like a dream. Here in Australia for a 75watt device the little Pico is hard to beat atm from my searching.
I also have a Smowell Hatrick tank coming I got on special, fire of up those triple coils with the Pico.
I don't think it has very good flavour personally and gets quite hot including the vape and tip. The mod itself however is an excellent piece of kit, I'm using it with Nautilus Mini atm and soon with Triton 2 Mini for tootle puffing.
I have tried the Atlantis 2 and Cleito tanks which both also ran like a dream. Here in Australia for a 75watt device the little Pico is hard to beat atm from my searching.
I also have a Smowell Hatrick tank coming I got on special, fire of up those triple coils with the Pico.
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I was also disappointed after awhile. I like the serpent mini's today for flavor. Just my thoughts.
You'll like it. I'm quite sure. Very decent flavor and good vapor. Could use more room for air flow. That's all I have.
I tried a few times with the Melo 3 Mini, 0.3ohm, 0.5ohm coils, different wattage, etc let them break in, sit, etc. I just think with a tank change Pico can be excellent. The Melo tank is fine as a kit inclusion but I think most of us would switch straight away.
If anyone likes it however, that's fine, enjoy it.
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