eleaf istick

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emmsma

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Kat, you still here?!

I love my iSticks. I have 2 20w and one 30w. The 20's have been around since October and using airflow controls is protecting their threading. They are small and easy to carry and use, the battery life is excellent and using Genitanks, the flavor and vapor production is fantastic.

I'm using a subtank on the 30w and its also fab. Even running at 25w most of the time, the istick battery lasts me days and days.
 

Katdarling

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Kat, you still here?!

I love my iSticks. I have 2 20w and one 30w. The 20's have been around since October and using airflow controls is protecting their threading. They are small and easy to carry and use, the battery life is excellent and using Genitanks, the flavor and vapor production is fantastic.

I'm using a subtank on the 30w and its also fab. Even running at 25w most of the time, the istick battery lasts me days and days.


Nope, I'm not here, M's. ;)
 

T4T3Z0R

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I got my 30 watt today and this is the first high wattage device I gotten. I also have a MVP. But I don't see how anyone can vape at high wattage! I set to 20 watts and get a burning taste. All my coils are around 1.4 to 1.5.

its all about wicking and airflow.
 

billybc96

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Well, my 30W showed up yesterday. Turns out the 510 connector was too shallow on mine, and so none of my tanks (or even their ego adapter) would site flush on the iStick. Today, back in the mail to the vendor--they claim they will either fix or replace as soon as they receive it. Bummer having to wait for so long for mine.

I had this very same issue. I tried screwing down as hard as possible, using a tank I don't really use much anymore (just in case something broke), but it did not help. The 510 pin floats, I've checked, but apparently not enough. My eGo thread adapter does screw down all the way though, as its 510 connection is shorter than my Mini Nautilus or Kayfun - both of which don't fit flush. I'd hate to send my iStick back, so I don't think I will. For now I just use the eGo adapter with a beauty ring to attach the Mini Nautilus. There are no gaps, but the setup sits a little higher than it would otherwise. That actually gives me a little more finger grip room around the beauty ring. I kind of like that because the iStick 30 is so smooth and slippery, but I know I shouldn't have to have my iStick setup that way. It is a disappointment. I'm planning on using the eLeaf Melo sub ohm tank on my iStick 30 when those tanks come out. I'm hopeful that the 510 connection on those is short enough not to leave a gap. We'll see.
 

navigator2011

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I had this very same issue. I tried screwing down as hard as possible, using a tank I don't really use much anymore (just in case something broke), but it did not help. The 510 pin floats, I've checked, but apparently not enough. My eGo thread adapter does screw down all the way though, as its 510 connection is shorter than my Mini Nautilus or Kayfun - both of which don't fit flush. I'd hate to send my iStick back, so I don't think I will. For now I just use the eGo adapter with a beauty ring to attach the Mini Nautilus. There are no gaps, but the setup sits a little higher than it would otherwise. That actually gives me a little more finger grip room around the beauty ring. I kind of like that because the iStick 30 is so smooth and slippery, but I know I shouldn't have to have my iStick setup that way. It is a disappointment. I'm planning on using the eLeaf Melo sub ohm tank on my iStick 30 when those tanks come out. I'm hopeful that the 510 connection on those is short enough not to leave a gap. We'll see.

In my case, even the ego adapter was sitting too high with a gap underneath. I had though about whether or not I should just live with the gap because everything else about the iStick 30 was great, but I decided for the money I paid, the thing should work correctly at least in the beginning. Besides, I want to run my Atlantis tank probably with the new 5 ml topper on there, and any extra height is not what I want.

After having thought about the shallow 510 connection, and reading what others have experienced, I have a suspicion that the white insulator around the spring connection just needs to be seated correctly within the outer threaded connector. I don't know if that description makes sense, but it appeared to me that the white insulator was preventing my tanks from screwing on correctly. I don't know, just some thoughts.
 

billybc96

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Navigator2011, I saw what you are talking about, so I tried something I wouldn't recommend. Not that it appears to have caused any damage, but it didn't resolve the issue either. I took a flat topped brass 1/4" punch, and gently (and then not so gently) tapped down on that floating pin and its surrounding white (plastic?) insulator. It seems like that may have barely gotten me an extra fraction of a millimeter (if anything), but was not worth the effort. The issue isn't that big a deal for me to be worth abusing my equipment again in that way. I also (previously) had tried using a drop of WD40 to try helping the pin loosen up. That didn't help.

I've crudely measured the distances involved down in there, and it seems like the 510 toppers should screw down all the way, but they just don't. Because of that I'm wondering if maybe the threading in the iStick has not been threaded all the way through quite as much as it should've been? That would give you a hard stop you could not easily screw past without using excessive force, and maybe even that wouldn't get you anywhere. If I happened to have a thread cutter on hand I would maybe try to cut the threads in deeper, if that were even possible, but in my case I still don't think it would be worth all the effort.
 

navigator2011

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Yeah, I know what you mean by it being not worth it--that's was why I just sent it back. It would be very easy to ruin it trying to fix it. As an additional thought, however, I noticed that the steel threads actually appear to be a cylinder which is press fitted into the chrome top-plate. On mine, the steel cylinder appeared to be flush with the top of the chrome top-plate, and thus too close. If that steel cylinder was press fitted to 1.0mm lower within the top-plate, my tanks would fit just fine. The only thing I can think of is my 510 connector was selected from a "bad batch" during assembly of my (and your) particular iStick 30.
 

navigator2011

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If I happened to have a thread cutter on hand I would maybe try to cut the threads in deeper, if that were even possible, but in my case I still don't think it would be worth all the effort.

Seriously, I would advise against this approach. That little spring connector is just too delicate, and the white insulator will just stop your tank screwing in anyways.
 

Bikenstein

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Yeah, I know what you mean by it being not worth it--that's was why I just sent it back. It would be very easy to ruin it trying to fix it. As an additional thought, however, I noticed that the steel threads actually appear to be a cylinder which is press fitted into the chrome top-plate. On mine, the steel cylinder appeared to be flush with the top of the chrome top-plate, and thus too close. If that steel cylinder was press fitted to 1.0mm lower within the top-plate, my tanks would fit just fine. The only thing I can think of is my 510 connector was selected from a "bad batch" during assembly of my (and your) particular iStick 30.
I think you may have discovered the problem because my "cylinder" as you call it sits a good 1/16" below flush with the chrome cap. The insert probably isn't pressed in far enough. I haven't taken mine apart to look at it but that appears to be it to me. I don't know if the connector is pressed in or how it's attached but would like to see pics if possible.
 
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billybc96

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Navigator2011, the threads should definitely not be flush with the top of the chrome plate. On my iStick, the top of those threads is flush with the bottom of the top chrome plate (about 1mm down from the top). I don't know if that is where they should be, but it does look like that is where they should be, as the fit in that area looks correct on mine.

Using a pair of needle nose, toothed type pliers (a Leatherman tool), combined with one of those flat rubber things from the kitchen that help you screw off tight jar tops (to protect from scratching either device), I was able to screw the Mini Nautilus down down with some brute hand force. Then I screwed it off again, and repeated, using a bit more WD40, until I got it down to where it is pretty much nearly flush on the iStick, with a very barely noticeable air gap which you have to look hard to see. I can now also screw the Nautilus off fairly easily, though it still takes a bit of extra effort when it is down tight (there is not a lot to hold onto for screwing the Nautilus in and out, as the airflow adjustment dial gets in the way). The ohm reading changes upward slightly after I did this, but not significantly from the slight variations I would have before anyway (+/- 0.2 ohms), depending on how tightly or loosely the Nautilus was screwed on.

Navigator2011, I would recommend trying something like that out - using just a touch of WD40 as a lubricant. Being very careful not to scratch either device in the process. If you give it a try, please let us know how it goes. Thank you for everyone's help with this problem.
 
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