ePipeMods.com Fully Custom Made Wood E-Pipes

[Ionredline]

Will the AW 18350 batteries work in the Ultrafire charger on the site? I have the Ultrafire charger already for my Buzz, so if I can use the same charger that would be great.

According to Ultrafire their 18350 will charge in it but I don't know if the AW 18350 will or will even fit.

 

[MistBusterMatt]

Will the AW 18350 batteries work in the Ultrafire charger on the site? I have the Ultrafire charger already for my Buzz, so if I can use the same charger that would be great.

According to Ultrafire their 18350 will charge in it but I don't know if the AW 18350 will or will even fit.

Honestly I'm not sure I only have 1 AW battery and it's not an 18350. I can tell you this, If it is a "proud" post or button top, like the ultrafire 18350, it will fit the ultrafire. If it is a flat or flush top like the IMR it will not. Also the batteries may be too wide to fit 2 in the charger.
I hope that helps.
BTW the DSD charger we have will charge either. It's not as fast as the ultrafire but it's one of the most versatile chargers I've used. It can charge ANY ..340-..350 and ..650 batteries including the 26650 (which is a hard battery to find a charger for).

 

[MistBusterMatt]

A Quick heads up for my ECF friends...
The C2 box pipes will be on sale for the rest of the month of April.
The single battery C2 is $49.99
The HV C2 is $64.99

Just thought we'd extend the VapeFest Introductory price to everyone else

 

[Ionredline]

Ok, that answers my question. I'll just have to throw a DSD on my order when the pipe is done.

 

[KonaNeil]

I suspect that many here have nice tobacco pipes inherited from our fathers and grandfathers. Instead of being relegated to a drawer, it would be nice if these could be converted to e-pipe use. Considering that there aren't that many form factors of pipes could you work up a kit that you could install in family heirloom pipes? I'd love to be able to use mine without courting lip and lung cancer.

 

[MistBusterMatt]

I suspect that many here have nice tobacco pipes inherited from our fathers and grandfathers. Instead of being relegated to a drawer, it would be nice if these could be converted to e-pipe use. Considering that there aren't that many form factors of pipes could you work up a kit that you could install in family heirloom pipes? I'd love to be able to use mine without courting lip and lung cancer.

As cool as that would be... There are a lot of variables that would all have to line up right in order to make a conversion.
It is possible maybe for some pipes, But our preferred tactic for this type of thing is to replicate the pipe. We have a fairly good ability to replicate most any style.

 

[MistBusterMatt]

Ok, that answers my question. I'll just have to throw a DSD on my order when the pipe is done.

Also you may want know that I am not positive about the fit of an AW 18350 in our pipes. If they are flat or flush tops they should work fine. If they are button tops they might not work. I did manage to get some of our new box pipes to fit the ultrafire 18350 by trimming the spring but I'm not sure that will work every time.

 

[Ionredline]

I ordered the IMR 18350s from you guys and the flush top will not work in my wf138 charger. I believe it won't anyway. Not a big deal, I'll just throw a DSD charger on my order.

 

[Para]

I ordered the IMR 18350s from you guys and the flush top will not work in my wf138 charger. I believe it won't anyway. Not a big deal, I'll just throw a DSD charger on my order.

Just add a small magnet to the positive end of the flat top

 

[Goldenkobold]

Hey Matt,
Not sure how your ego threaded pipes are coming along I noticed that Heavens Gifts has these

which may be an easy way to accomplish a cone thread without drastically changing things, you would just need to make your current 510 connection flush with the stem, as opposed to its current sticking out of the stem, then screw this into it a viola...a flush cone on your stem with any type of cartomizer, atomizer. They are 2 bucks each.

Just another option

edit: an added bonus is for cleaning you could just take it off and run it under water.

 

[MistBusterMatt]

Hey Matt,
Not sure how your ego threaded pipes are coming along I noticed that Heavens Gifts has these

which may be an easy way to accomplish a cone thread without drastically changing things, you would just need to make your current 510 connection flush with the stem, as opposed to its current sticking out of the stem, then screw this into it a viola...a flush cone on your stem with any type of cartomizer, atomizer. They are 2 bucks each.

Just another option

edit: an added bonus is for cleaning you could just take it off and run it under water.

Awesome! I spent a bunch of money on the other kind and this one will work better... Figures
I'll let you guys know how the R&D goes and thanks for all the help finding parts. It really does make my job easier.

 

[lrd3]

Hey Matt,
Not sure how your ego threaded pipes are coming along I noticed that Heavens Gifts has these

which may be an easy way to accomplish a cone thread without drastically changing things, you would just need to make your current 510 connection flush with the stem, as opposed to its current sticking out of the stem, then screw this into it a viola...a flush cone on your stem with any type of cartomizer, atomizer. They are 2 bucks each.

Just another option

edit: an added bonus is for cleaning you could just take it off and run it under water.

these are really just just adaptors... any adaptor is just another chance for a "short" =thats my opinion... i have shortened the spring of many of mods using dif adaptors past there prime......... now when i want a 801 i use a mod with a 801 connector.. if i want a cone i use a cone connector.... i stay away from adaptors... its just what i have decided is right.... (FOR ME)

 

[Goldenkobold]

these are really just just adaptors... any adaptor is just another chance for a "short" =thats my opinion... i have shortened the spring of many of mods using dif adaptors past there prime......... now when i want a 801 i use a mod with a 801 connector.. if i want a cone i use a cone connector.... i stay away from adaptors... its just what i have decided is right.... (FOR ME)

It is and you could be right, I was just tossing out another option, I think your cut up ego was a good option (or a machined equivalent)

How do adapters cause shorts? I have heard of them messing with the pins on attys/carts if they have movable center posts but never actually, due to construction, shorting out? What would cause one to be "past its prime"? Just curious of the mechanics behind it all.

 

[lrd3]

in my experiences.. the safest way to use an adaptor.. is to thread the adaptor down to the atty.. snug it to the atty... then thread it into the mod of choice.. problem arrives latter (for me anyway) latter as the adaptor or aty loosen up we snug them down... if the aty and adaptor are the loose party.. then you thread them together pushing the pos pin of the adaptor past it proper seat.. this happens several times.. and just wares out the adapter... (its just a bushing) eventually the pos pin can short easily on the neg... its a sad day... and a small set back when a mod is built with a quality spring (they collapse) and are easy to replace... as is the spring in these pipes... heck a new button is a easy fix.... (well done guys)

 

[MistBusterMatt]

I am with you on the Adapter thing Ird, Sometimes even the hubs that I get in have shorts before I install them. I used to work in audio equipment and adapters are demons. There are very small wires in adapters (for mods) light gauge that can either burn out and short with too much current. The wire can also simply disconnect from the solder joint and short as well.

With that being said this seems to be the cheapest and most effective method for making this happen. A machine shop would be Ideal but things move very fast in the industry and fabricating 1000 pieces based on one idea doesn't seem like the best course of action for us right now (maybe down the road).

Also note that with both a replaceable button and adapter thread, a short will not kill the mod. It would still be usable with a few replacement parts. I have already had this issue with a customer that had a shorted goose neck on a Dragon. Fortunately the spring in the button acts as a fuse and collapses the circuit. All the customer needed was a new button.

 

[lrd3]

LRD3... lol...

 

[MistBusterMatt]

LRD3... lol...

Woops, sorry bout that. Looked Like an I...
Anyway it looks like we were typing just about the same comment at the same time!

 

[lrd3]

Woops, sorry bout that. Looked Like an I...
Anyway it looks like we were typing just about the same comment at the same time!

lol.. looks like it.. im surprised just how often i use my pipe... i actualy got it for my "at home relaxing piece" lol.. who was i kidding.. i don't leave home without it any more..... i forgot how nice some 2.0 carto are.....
were you guys able to get the cone friendly hubs?

 

[MistBusterMatt]

lol.. looks like it.. im surprised just how often i use my pipe... i actualy got it for my "at home relaxing piece" lol.. who was i kidding.. i don't leave home without it any more..... i forgot how nice some 2.0 carto are.....
were you guys able to get the cone friendly hubs?

Yes and I already have been tinkering around with them. They would work but there are a few things that have to be done to each hub to make it look right . The hubs come with "glue tabs" on the back end which would have to be ground off to look finished on the pipe. Also the button hole may be an issue for some people. I would of course mount it hole down, but there is still a hole. Aside from creating a nice dress ring on the shank the solid state hubs don't seem like the best option, and add a lot of work to each pipe.

Of course if you guys think otherwise I'm always listening

 

[lrd3]

well . . . . slipping the ego hub in a wood dowel and slipping it through the band saw makes it a quick and simple cut... i cut them below the button hole...