EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

[Bubo]

Sorry Blackjack - took me this long to look at the shopping list (And copy it all down - thanks!)

Question for you and BigBlue though - you have a thumb wheel Potentiometer in there (3352T-201LF-ND) is that the same thing as the blue rectangular box Potentiometer (3296W-201LF-ND)? Just a different way of adjusting?
(I know nothing of electronics, I am just following the pictures!)

Thanks!

 

[j21blackjack]

The thumbwheel will only go around so far (300 degrees I think). The blue POT will turn forever, but will only adjust resistance within a certain range of the screw. I'm not sure of the number of turns to adjust over the entire range, but it's probably around 30-40 turns. The blue POT will probably be able to adjust voltage by the .01 volts or better. The thumbwheel on the other hand will be much more coarse adjust. You'd probably be doing good to be able to adjust by the .1 volt. I hate the blue POTs, I've been working with them for over 5 years in the Navy. I always get lost trying to adjust them, and most of the ones I've dealt with were terrible at adjusting. Of course, I was adjusting in the hundredths or thousandths of volts, so I'm sure going from 0-6 volts it should work great. I ordered both the thumbwheel and screw adjust because I really want to use the thumbwheel, but I want to be prepared just in case I can't.

I got most of my parts in today, I hope to get the rest of them tomorrow. I'm only missing the led, connector, and regulator. I've asked BigBlue for a detailed picture or drawing of the circuit layout just to make sure I'm wiring it up right the first time.

 

[Bubo]

Cool, I'll probably go the same route, and order two of each (or maybe four... It took four tries just to make a MOSFET for my tiny little itty bitty push buttons!).


Let us know how it goes! (And lots of pictures of tiny things!)

 

[j21blackjack]

I hope BigBlue responds to my PM, I'm really having trouble figuring out how to wire in the POT. I can't seem to make it make sense to me.

 

[j21blackjack]

Cool, I'll probably go the same route, and order two of each (or maybe four... It took four tries just to make a MOSFET for my tiny little itty bitty push buttons!).


Let us know how it goes! (And lots of pictures of tiny things!)

You know, I just thought about that. I don't like big honkin buttons on my boxes. How would I go about protecting my switches with a MOSFET? What are some part #'s for MOSFETs to use?

I'm also still confused on the POT. Where does the other end of the 220 ohm resistor go? I know it goes to pin 5 and then to the middle pin of the POT, but how does that go into the PCB?

 

[bigblue30]

I've asked BigBlue for a detailed picture or drawing of the circuit layout just to make sure I'm wiring it up right the first time.

Sorry guys... my city did a big car cruise today and from my avatar you can see I drive GTO's and like to see the other cars....so I was gone most of the day.

Here is a hand drawing of the front of the chip. You need to cut the copper between 4d and 4e and also between 2e and 2f to make this work.

 

[j21blackjack]

Thanks BigBlue, it all makes since now. Is there any way I could get my N.O. "fire" switch to work on the inhibit pin? I'm trying to keep from having to buy a 3A switch because I don't want to wait another week to build this mod.

 

[bigblue30]

Thanks BigBlue, it all makes since now. Is there any way I could get my N.O. "fire" switch to work on the inhibit pin? I'm trying to keep from having to buy a 3A switch because I don't want to wait another week to build this mod.

The inhibit pin uses a N/C. You would have to use a inverter chip or a small relay to make a N/O work. Not worth it to me to do that.

 

[WillyB]

Thanks BigBlue, it all makes since now. Is there any way I could get my N.O. "fire" switch to work on the inhibit pin? I'm trying to keep from having to buy a 3A switch because I don't want to wait another week to build this mod.

These RS switches are quite serviceable. They were used in the NicoStick and the Bartleby.

Red Button SPST Pushbutton Switch - RadioShack.com

3A 125V SPST Pushbutton Momentary Switch - RadioShack.com

You will have to bend the tabs flat.

 

[Bubo]

You know, I just thought about that. I don't like big honkin buttons on my boxes. How would I go about protecting my switches with a MOSFET? What are some part #'s for MOSFETs to use?

Here is what I did (And the poor little itty bitty switch fell apart after I tested it; this was attempt #3)

THe MOSFET is the same used in DnC's NicoDrip Box Mod (I think I got it from DigiKey).. My main problem with attempts #1 and #2 is that I didn't realize I had to flip the MOSFET over (I was soldering on the other (non copper) side of the PCB.

I've been using the final one that worked for about 5 days now on a 5v passthough with out a problem....

 

[j21blackjack]

I finished mine just a few minutes ago. I'm making a post with pictures. It freaking rocks.

 

[Scubabatdan]

I finished mine just a few minutes ago. I'm making a post with pictures. It freaking rocks.

Congrats, cant wait to see!
Dan

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

Perhaps this will help for controlling the unit (it's been a long hard search for this one - previously I found it was a 2500 -10,000 unit min order - yippeee). Just ordered 8 of them. Figuring out the actuator button and mounting may be a challenge though.

Scubba - have you made a N/C touch switch you can share (just kidding - we'll getter figured out - one way or another)

 

[o4_srt]

for anyone interested in this, radio shack carries 4 packs of normally closed momentary switches, should make it more convenient when the switch needs replaced.

 

[WillyB]

for anyone interested in this, radio shack carries 4 packs of normally closed momentary switches, should make it more convenient when the switch needs replaced.

Well there are some nice quality, branded NC switches out there.

Small button.

8533MZQE2 C&K Components Pushbutton Switches

A larger button.

SB4011NCM-RO NKK Switches Pushbutton Switches

 

[o4_srt]

Well there are some nice quality, branded NC switches out there.

Small button.

8533MZQE2 C&K Components Pushbutton Switches

A larger button.

SB4011NCM-RO NKK Switches Pushbutton Switches

I'm well aware of this, but having the switches available OTC, so to speak, is a lot more convenient, in case I don't have a spare, and it takes a crap.

I ordered everything else at mouser.

spent 7 bucks on my last switch (c&k 3 amp, NO from madvapes), and lasted a whopping 1.5 months. Even if each one only lasts 2-3 weeks, it's still cheaper than buying branded switches.

 

[Justin25]

okay i am a newbie and not great with electronics but i am very handy so i think i can do this. i got the chip chip from ti. what else do i need? what is the blue thing, the two yellow things, and how do you hook up a knob to adjust the voltage? thanks

 

[o4_srt]

okay i am a newbie and not great with electronics but i am very handy so i think i can do this. i got the chip chip from ti. what else do i need? what is the blue thing, the two yellow things, and how do you hook up a knob to adjust the voltage? thanks

blue thing is the potentiometer, or trimmer resistor, whatever you prefer

yellow things are the capacitors

voltage is adjusted via the potentiometer/trimmer (aka blue thing)

Parts list:
TI PTR08100W
Mod Box
Battery connector of your choice
Normally Closed (N/C) momentary switch
On/Off switch (SPST) (rated at 2.5 amps or more) if your box is not equipped
2x 100v 10uF capacitors (I used tantalum capacitors)
2x 220 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors
1x 200 ohm, 1/2 watt potentiometer or trimmer resistor
1x 5v LED (color of your choice)

additional parts:
2x 14500 li-ion batteries
battery charger

optional: second "on" LED to let you know your mod is on (as opposed to a single, "fire" LED)


Note: To build it exactly like the schematic blue posted, you MUST substitute a 3 amp, normally open (N/O) momentary switch for the N/C switch. Otherwise, you simply wire the N/C switch in series with pin 5 on the chip, to ground (or the negative battery terminal/outside of the battery connector/pin 3 of chip)

I used the N/C switch, as there is less current flowing through it, and, IMO, a N/C switch with minimal current "SHOULD" last a little longer than a N/O switch with 2 amps flowing through it. Just my opinion, not proven.

 

[WillyB]

... I used the N/C switch, as there is less current flowing through it, and, IMO, a N/C switch with minimal current "SHOULD" last a little longer than a N/O switch with 2 amps flowing through it. Just my opinion, not proven.

Your way though means that whenever the master/kill switch is ON the reg is on/powered. Using a switch like in biggie's schematic only powers the reg when vaping.

 

[j21blackjack]

My next box is going to have a NC switch in it because I can use a whole lot smaller switch. I hate having to use these huge 3A switches on my boxes. I think you meant pin 1 of the chip, not pin 5. Pin 5 is the voltage adjust pin, and pin 1 is the inhibit control pin. I'll just make sure I make the box so that I can easily remove the switch if I ever need to replace it.

As far as the regulator being on whenever the box is on, that 's fine by me. I only keep it on when I'm actively vaping. I don't think it really matters between the regulator being on for longer vice being constantly cycled on and off.