EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

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bigblue30

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I have to tell you all.....I do love this board.
 

Bubo

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Okay - I gotta ask, 'cus no one else seems to be intrested...
What about those of us that don't like the big 3 AMP switches and like the tiny ones.....

Is it possible to wire one of the 12V 50ma Normally Open switches with a MOSFET into this?
(Okay - that was silly; I know it's possible - who will take pity on the electrically challenged (me!) and draw it out?) :)

Thanks!
 

j21blackjack

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can i be directed to where i can purchase the trimmer resistor and the capacitor and the little board. also, is the know connected to the trimmer resistor. like i said i have the variable regulator from ti already. is there a more detailed post to build this or a similar one? thanks

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/114901-evercool-variable-voltage-mod-4.html - Post #40

This was my shopping list for my box. I ended up buying a 3A switch at Radioshack instead of the little tactile switches from madvapes. You'll have to go to digikey to look up the part numbers, but everything is there (board, caps, pot, etc).
 

bigblue30

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BigBlue, do you know the current draw on the inhibit pin?


I am not sure what you are asking….If you want to know how much current the chip (PTR08100W ) draws when the inhibit pin is “low”…or when the chip is in standby….or when the “safety”switch is on but the fire switch is not active…..then the answer is.. 1 ma.


II(stby) Input standby current Pin 1 to GND 1 mA

If this is not what you are asking...please ask another question.
 

bigblue30

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can i be directed to where i can purchase the trimmer resistor and the capacitor and the little board.

Justin,

This is where I got mine from. I am sure you can find them elsewere.

The main parts are:
1- TI ptr08100w
http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/ptr08100w.html
Look on the right side for “samples”

2- 100uf 16 volt Tantalum capacitors Or some with the same specs.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6PCS-16-V-100-UF-Tantalum-bead-capacitors-2-5MM-RC-/370259715133?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563532e43d

1 – 200 .5 watt variable resistors (POT)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_241091_-1

2- 14500 batteries
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx


1 – 200 .5 watt variable resistors (POT)
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_241091_-1

1 – atty or carto connector (the one in the picture is using a D-1 connector)
http://www.madvapes.com/Connectors_c_21.html
Or you can pull one off of a dead battery.


1 – 3XAA battery holder with built in switch.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&productId=216144&catalogId=10001&freeText=216144&app.products.maxperpage=15&storeId=10001&search_type=jamecoall&ddkey=https:OrderItemAdd


1 – 5 hole X 7 hole PCB
Local electronic store. I use one that I cut to 5 holes x 6 holes.


Other optional parts are:
2 – LEDs (One to show when the main switch is on and one to show when voltage is going to the connector.
http://www.madvapes.com/LEDS-and-Indicators_c_25.html
These come with the resistor needed.

2 – Resistors for the LEDs

1 – N/O 5 amp push switch
http://www.ottoexcellence.com/controls/pushbutton_p9.html
You do not have to use this switch. Any “high” grade 3-amp or more will work. These are use in a Blackhawk helicopter as part of the flight control and are the “best” switch I could find.

also, is the know connected to the trimmer resistor.

Not sure of the question here.


like i said i have the variable regulator from ti already. is there a more detailed post to build this or a similar one? thanks

This is not one if the easier mods to do. I have not done a step by step yet.

Here is a better layout:

ti-1002w.jpg
 

bigblue30

Super Member
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Originally Posted by Bubo
Okay - I gotta ask, 'cus no one else seems to be intrested...
What about those of us that don't like the big 3 AMP switches and like the tiny ones.....

Bubo,

There are so many ways to power this mod. Below are a few ways with the pros and cons.

1. Have a single 3 amp N/O “fire” switch in the battery line and do not connect the control pin. You then have a single switch that activates the device by turning on the battery.

Pros:
Only one switch to wire into the mod. If you use a good switch it should last a long time.

Cons:
Having a BIG 3 amp switch in your mod.

If the single switch shorts (I know that 99.99999999999% of the time the switch will fail in the open position.) the only way to turn it off is to pull the battery, not really a problem in a box mod, but if you have a battery cover that is hard to get off….. It could be a problem.

2. Hot wire the battery to the Vin and only use a small amp N/C switch connected to the inhibit pin (1) to fire the chip.

Pros:
You can use a small switch N/C and not worry about using a 3 amp N/O switch.

Cons:
Voltage would always be flowing to the chip whenever the batteries are in the mod. It will only be milli amps, but it will always be flowing.

If the N/C switch fails in the open position…. the only way to turn it off is to pull the battery

3. Wire in a 3 amp slider switch in the battery line for the safety switch and wire in another N/O push button switch inline with the safety switch for the fire switch. Then leave the inhibit pin disconnected.

Pros:
You can use only N/O switches. No need to find a good N/C switch. You can use the switch that came with the 3AA box as the safety switch….if you do not care about useing that crappy box switch.

Cons:
Having to install a “good” 3 amp switch for the fire switch.

Having to remember to turn off the safety switch to make it safe.




4. Have a N/O ‘kill” switch in the battery line and a separate high quality N/C “fire” switch connected to pin 1. This makes it very “safe”.

Both switches have to fail to get a miss fire. The kill has to short and the fire has to open. I know nothing is fool proof, but this is as fool proof as possible with this chip, this is the belt and suspenders approach.


Pros:
This is a very safe way to wire a mod.

You can use the box switch that came with the 3AA box. The box switch will be the safety switch. The box safety switch will only be switched on and off when there is no load on it. Making that crappy little switch last much longer.

Cons:
Having to wire in two switches.

Having to remember to turn off the safety switch.

If you do not use the box switch and replace it with a “good” switch you have to find somewhere to mount it.


5. A single N/O, N/C two circuit switch that does both jobs in one package.

Pros:
Only having to mount 1 switch.

Not having to remember to turn the kill switch off to make it safe.

At rest with this switch...the kill N/O has the battery circuit open and the fire N/C is shorted to ground, turning off the output.

No current is flowing anywhere at rest.

Cons:
Having to wire 2 switch circuits to 1 switch.

Needing to buy a “high” quality 2 circuit switch to ensure long life.



Is it possible to wire one of the 12V 50ma Normally Open switches with a MOSFET into this?
(Okay - that was silly; I know it's possible - who will take pity on the electrically challenged (me!) and draw it out?) :)

Yes, But just using the inhibit pin will save you some space and you will not have to find somewhere to mount a MOSFET and the pull down resistor… But to answer you question.. this is the circuit.

ti-10021w.jpg
 

bigblue30

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ECF Veteran
Wow.....
All I was expecting was a little doodle and a sentance or two....
Thank you BigBlue! :)

I know...sometimes I get carried away.

BTW, Susie and I did watch a movie on the 120 inch (10 foot)Epsom last night. I can not stand to go to the theater anymore.
 
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susie22321

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FYI.....BB does not DO doodles or short answers. He's a teacher at heart.

I know, because all of his "pics" need to be uploaded and resized with my PhotoBucket account, lol!

I need a raise :)

All in favor, say AYE!!!

Hmmm....no one is shouting AYE! Perhaps my PhotoBucket account will be non-functioning for now :p
 
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