EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

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breaktru

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Hello Everyone,

Digi-Key.com

Qty .......... Part Number .......... Description .......... Unit Price


1 ..... EG1933-ND ........ SWITCH PB SPST-N/C METAL 3A BLK ....... $4.04000
1 ..... EG1929-ND ........ SWITCH PB SPST-NC MOM 3A BLK ....... $2.95000


I have two push button switches because i'm not sure witch I like better. :p

Looks like you have 3 amp N/C switches rather than N/O
A N/C, low amp switch (tactile) can be used if you use the inhibit pin.
 

mrengles

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Apr 21, 2011
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Looks like you have 3 amp N/C switches rather than N/O
A N/C, low amp switch (tactile) can be used if you use the inhibit pin.

Breaktru,

I'm looking to use the same schematic as BB30, and I do believe he was using the N/C 3A PushButton switch.

Thanks though. I know it would save some room.

-mrengles
 

rchriste

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Breaktru,

I'm looking to use the same schematic as BB30, and I do believe he was using the N/C 3A PushButton switch.

Thanks though. I know it would save some room.

-mrengles

Actually BB30 was using a 5A NO switch which he pointed to in this message I have a copy of the schematic image BB30 posted and he called for a 3A switch and while it doesn't specify NC or NO in the text, the schematic representation of the switch is a NO switch for the fire switch. His schematic is in post #1 and it represents a 3A switch that appears to be Normally Open. I also have a copy of the schematic that BB30 amended to actually say 3A NO on it but I have yet to find which message he posted it in. To be honest, I'm tired of looking for it. This is a huge thread. If you're from Missouri and need to be shown then PM me and I'll send you a copy of his amended schematic.

If you're considering using the inhibit pin or a Mosfet and a low amp tactile NC switch that's fine and dandy but it's not what BB30 called for. While the inhibit and mosfet routes could call for a NC switch, 3A would be a huge overkill and would defeat the purpose of those methods.

In this post BB30 referenced using a 5A NO switch and where he got it from.

If he did post another schematic representing a 3A NC switch, could you please point us to that post? If the Big Blue Evercool mod calls for a NC switch I'm dumbfounded as to why mine works with a NO switch.

My opinion is that a little more research and considering the advice that experience offers ie (breaktru) is in order. Otherwise your finger is going to get VERY VERY sore holding that button down. <grin>
 

Java_Az

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If your going to use the inhibit pin with a NC switch it takes big amps out of the picture. You could use one rated really low on amps. Any NC tactile switch would work. Most are rated around 200 milliamps or less. So 3amp is for sure overkill for a NC. A direct switch or NO switch are wired up so you want a high amp so it will last.
 

mrengles

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Well, It looks like I miss read this thread when purchasing my switches. I bought some 3a NC switches. Does anyone have a schematic or diagram they can share on how I can use this 3a NC switch on Pin 1 with the 3xAAA boxes built in kill switch? I read BB30 saying this was a very safe method, but dont know how to put it all together. I'm new to this kinda stuff. learning as I go. (yes I know this is gonna be a tough mod for me to build.) :)

OR can I just use the 3a NC switch in place of a 3a NO switch with BB30's schematic?
 

Java_Az

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They are wired up different for sure. The NC switch goes from pin one to the switch the other leg goes to a ground. NC = normally closed which means it is ON till you hit the button then it turns OFF. With a ground applied to Pin1 of the regulator it puts it to sleep / off . When you hit the button on the NC switch it stops the ground from getting to the pin and the regulator turns on. So if you wired a NC per big blues plans you would have a PV that would be on all the time till you hit the switch then it would turn off. RadioShack carries some 3 amp NO / normally open switches if you want to go with big blues schematic without having to wait on a web order.
 

mrengles

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... The NC switch goes from pin one to the switch the other leg goes to a ground...

Do you mean I could go from Pin 1 ----> NC push switch and the other leg ---> to Battery Box Kill switch ---> Battery Negative (black wire) ?

THanks for the help.

I would move B3 to B1 right? Is that all?

ti-10031w.jpg

ti-1002w.jpg
 
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Java_Az

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I think I'll just invest into some nice 3A NO Push Button Switches, I really don't want power running thru the reg all the time.

Thats how i like to wire them up, although not alot of current is consumed by the regulator in sleep mode 1mA is what the data sheet says. But it does add up over time. You also have a chance if the Normally Closed switch fails in the Open position your PV is going to be stuck on.


can you use 1/2w resistors in this and the booster mod or do they have to be 1/4w?

The data Sheet for the regulator calls for a 1/20th of a watt resistor. So 1/2 a watt is overkill for sure but should work with no problems.
 
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Java_Az

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I thought so but wanted to check, I'm having trouble rounding up parts. Finding resistors in lots smaller than 100 especially. I would prefer to get as much stuff in one place as possible to avoid paying a small fortune in shipping charges ordering from multiple places.

Digikey has everything you need great prices and the cheapest shipping if you go with first class mail ( small orders that are under the weight limit) . Other then Digikey there is Mouser they also have a huge stock pile to choose from but no first class mail for shipping so i use them only on large orders.
 

Silent Soldier

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found a 10 pack of the caps on amazon for $14. digi does have some nice enclosures though. The chip is no problem, I have 5 of them already :)

Got my resistors at rat shack. Cheap 5 for $1 or so.

rat shack is far from "cheap", I've seen the resistors sold in packs of 100 for $3, I just don't need 100 of them lol.
 

clutchjunkie

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I just picked up everything to build my own ptr08060 mod, I just can't stop building these things. I just finished my 04050 buck/boost a couple days ago, but I want something that can handle some serious power. I also have a linear reg mod that I threw together a while back that looks like it was made in a jail cell or something, works good though except for the heat.

I am going to run mine off of a 7.4v 20c 2200mah LiPo, I have a bunch left over from my R/C hobby stuff. I'm going to stick a 6.5 amp polyfuse in my design to add short protection for the lipo "just in case". Other than that, it will pretty much be the standard build you are all used to, just a longer box.
 

ZoSo15

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can you use 1/2w resistors in this and the booster mod or do they have to be 1/4w?

I used the 1/2 watt resistors from radioshack. Only downside is they're a little big but it doesn't really matter, the main clearance issue is with the caps.

Edit: BTW, this thing is awesome. Lasts a day and a half for me vaping at 5.0V with 801 atties at 3 ohms and 4.5V with 510's at 2.5 ohms. I think my radioshack switch is going out though so I need to find a beddar one.

Overall I couldn't be happier. :D
 
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