EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

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Java_Az

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I didn't know I could run a resistor like that, but it makes sense. Would an LED and resistor combo work in there I wonder, or would the diode be "backwards" and not ground the inhibit pin?

I dont think it would work. Pretty sure it would block the ground and/or positive from getting to the inhibit pin.

Edit: just soldered in my 8060 to test my circuit board i made. It is vaping like a champ with almost no drop in voltage under load. I am powering it with a AC adapter though Guess i will rig up a couple of 18650 and see what it does. Anyways you wont have any issues out of a 8060
 
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rannox

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So it messed up again. I have power going in ~8 volts. But then im only getting like .01v out at the actual chip.
Nothing is touching the control pin, I just clipped it to make sure.

With no load, led is blinking like its on a low pulse setting or something.... kinda odd. With load, nothing.

Swapped caps, nothing

New batteries, nothing.

Bridged switch, same

Bridged ground and adjust to see if it was a resistor, led just gets dimer.

Any ideas?
 

Java_Az

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If the adjust pin was shorted your voltage should be .6 volts at the lowest. Blinking LED might be a clue. Have you tried a Fonzie Tap on it yet. Sometimes a good old fashion smack gets things to running again. I will have a look at BB's circuit and see if i can come up with something other then that i guess i am not much help.
 

SurvivorMcGyver

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6 amps is more then enough to power a atomizer. You could even power a LR atomizer at the max 5.5 and still have amps to spare. I wouldn't recommend that though unless you like burnt juice.

As far as using a NO switch with this you might want to take a look at the schematic CapeCAD made up for the okami switching module. It is pretty close to being the same exact chip as the TI.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/152392-coolgate-variable-voltage-mod.html

I'd use a bit of caution here, the chip Capecad is working with will accept Vi Max to the contol pin. The 8100 accepts 6V MAX to this pin - I've been doing this for quite some time On the Okami line with absolutely no problem -- You might ask Bigblue to see if he's tried it as I recomended it (with the same precautions) to him months ago.......

Yooohooo -- Oh BigBluuuuue
 

MrByte

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I dont think it would work. Pretty sure it would block the ground and/or positive from getting to the inhibit pin.

Edit: just soldered in my 8060 to test my circuit board i made. It is vaping like a champ with almost no drop in voltage under load. I am powering it with a AC adapter though Guess i will rig up a couple of 18650 and see what it does. Anyways you wont have any issues out of a 8060

In your test rig, did you use the resistor setup like in the Coolgate mod?
 

SurvivorMcGyver

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On second thoughts..... (prompted by stimulus from a well respected and previously mention colleague) with a 1mA current draw with the pin in standby and, quoting the spec sheet - "When the Inhibit control is active, the input current drawn by the regulator is significantly reduced" - by golly, it just might work.

Looking for feed back.
 

Java_Az

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I'd use a bit of caution here, the chip Capecad is working with will accept Vi Max to the contol pin. The 8100 accepts 6V MAX to this pin - I've been doing this for quite some time On the Okami line with absolutely no problem -- You might ask Bigblue to see if he's tried it as I recomended it (with the same precautions) to him months ago.......

Yooohooo -- Oh BigBluuuuue

Thanks McGyver ,
I should have been more clear i wasnt saying it would work. I just know those chips are really close to being the same. should have said "you might want to take a look at the schematic CapeCAD made up for the okami switching module" ' To see if it will work ' You Bring up a good point on the max voltage on the control pins is different on the chips but it does look like you almost have it worked out.
 

Java_Az

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In your test rig, did you use the resistor setup like in the Coolgate mod?

I designed my circuit from scratch So i can make and etch my own circuit boards.Never liked the idea of bending the pins on this chip so by making my own board i dont have to bend them to make them fit. I liked the idea of a direct switch better then using the control pin So i guess you could say my circuit is more like Bigblues the CapeCADs. But i do use the same 0805 SMD resistors Cape does. But in this test board i have the chip wired up as always on to make sure my board traces can handle the amps. Going to put a 5.5 amp load on it for 4 or 5 hours to make sure the board doesn't fry or get too hot. If it passes that test i will call it good.
 

WillyB

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... I saw some N/C switches earlier, but they are SMT. Has anyone tried them, or should I just go with a FET or transistor and an NO switch?
Why not just a high quality NO switch wired as biggie did? There are many to chose from in all shapes and sizes.

If you feel the need for a NC switch here's a few. Three different manufacturers.

Switches - C&K / ITT / Cannon - Switches & Relays from Allied Electronics

SB4011NCH-2B NKK Switches Pushbutton Switches

Digi-Key - GH1364-ND Grayhill
 

MrByte

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Java_Az

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Per TI, the 100k resistor will not pull the inhibit pin down enough to work. :(

I saw some N/C switches earlier, but they are SMT. Has anyone tried them, or should I just go with a FET or transistor and an NO switch?

Sorry to hear that, Well i though that circuit was worth a look at as the chips are pretty close to being the same, but not close enough it looks like. Did Ti give an idea of how to make it work maybe with a different resistor value or did they recommend a NC switch.

Edit: I guess you could request a okami sample chip to solve the problem. http://www.murata-ps.com/okami/
 
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rannox

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I requested samples from them... was told no... but they are only $6.60 at newark.com

Since my TI chip is basically dead. I just send off a request, maybe they will approve me even though they denied yours lol, heres to hoping *crosses fingers*

If not, I'll just buy one.
 

Java_Az

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rannox

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MrByte

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Remember the challenge may come if you use a nc switch. Any malfunction in the switch will cause it to stay open.
You know the rest of the story.

I'll still have the kill switch, for that reason ;-)

I have one of Rat-Shack's NO micros on my 4-AA mod, it's holding up to the current of this application, but I hate the feel. After a while my finger gets sore from holding it down. They have a similar switch that's NC.

I figured Murata would deny a sample req, since their sample request form is more "formal" I guess, than TI's. I'll have to look at the other chip from LineagePower.

Also, sometimes you ask an expert, who tells you what you can't do, then you do it anyhow. :evil: I have 2 8060's here, so I'll give the resistor on pin 1 to gnd a shot. That or an LED/resistor. If the LED would work, it might even yield a bonus as an on when on indicator.
 
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