Volume control pots typically have an audio taper. You want to use a pot with a linear taper for this application. The audio taper has a greater degree of adjustment at one end of the rotation than the other end. Test your pot with an ohm meter and see what value it is at max. You didn't mention it's max value. It could be 1Meg or something and that would cause the symptom you're describing. In that case, your full range adjustment would be in the last .0000005 mm of rotation. I'm kidding. I'm not actually doing the math here but it would be a VERY small portion of the rotation.
EverCool Variable Voltage Mod
- Thread starter bigblue30
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ok ill try something else. I know nothing about electronics really. This is my attempt at trying to learn so hopefully I can get something working.
how can i use this lm 2596 dc stepdown converter adjustable power module for mod
This item for 1pieces of Brand new Adjustable DC-DC Converter
>Easy installation
> Wide range of input 4-40v
>Stable & High efficient up to 92%
>Powerful max.3A / Adjustable output 1.5-35v
USD $1.0
Flat Rate of Worldwide Delivery for USD $4.23
Condition: 100% Brand New
Item Description:
This LM2596 is a voltage switching regulator providing capable of driving a 2A (max.3A) load with excellent line and lad regulation.
A assemble circuit with minimum components provides simple various output controlling with internal frequency compensation, and a fixed-frequency oscillator.
Specifications:
Dimension: 43 (L) * 20.5 (W) * 14 (H) mm (with potentiometer)
Input voltage: 4.5-40V
Output Voltage: 1.5-35V (adjustable)
Output current: Rated current 2A, maximum 3A (Additional heat sink is required),
Conversion efficiency: Up to 92% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
Switching Frequency: 150KHz
Rectifier: Non-Synchronous Rectification
Module Properties: Non-isolated step-down module (buck)
Short circuit protection: Current limiting, since the recovery
Operating temperature: Industrial grade (-40 ℃ to +85 ℃) (output power 10W or less)
Full load temperature rise: 40 ℃
Load regulation: ± 0.5%
Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Connection mode: Welded, plus pin can be directly soldered PCB.
Output ripple:
Input 12V Output 5V 3A 60mV (MAX)
Input 24V Output 12V 3A 120mV (MAX)
Package include :
1 x LM2596 DC-DC Step Down Converter
(Delivery with seated metal pack)
This item for 1pieces of Brand new Adjustable DC-DC Converter
>Easy installation
> Wide range of input 4-40v
>Stable & High efficient up to 92%
>Powerful max.3A / Adjustable output 1.5-35v
USD $1.0
Flat Rate of Worldwide Delivery for USD $4.23
Condition: 100% Brand New
Item Description:
This LM2596 is a voltage switching regulator providing capable of driving a 2A (max.3A) load with excellent line and lad regulation.
A assemble circuit with minimum components provides simple various output controlling with internal frequency compensation, and a fixed-frequency oscillator.
Specifications:
Dimension: 43 (L) * 20.5 (W) * 14 (H) mm (with potentiometer)
Input voltage: 4.5-40V
Output Voltage: 1.5-35V (adjustable)
Output current: Rated current 2A, maximum 3A (Additional heat sink is required),
Conversion efficiency: Up to 92% (O/P voltage higher, the higher the efficiency)
Switching Frequency: 150KHz
Rectifier: Non-Synchronous Rectification
Module Properties: Non-isolated step-down module (buck)
Short circuit protection: Current limiting, since the recovery
Operating temperature: Industrial grade (-40 ℃ to +85 ℃) (output power 10W or less)
Full load temperature rise: 40 ℃
Load regulation: ± 0.5%
Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
Dynamic response speed: 5% 200uS
Connection mode: Welded, plus pin can be directly soldered PCB.
Output ripple:
Input 12V Output 5V 3A 60mV (MAX)
Input 24V Output 12V 3A 120mV (MAX)
Package include :
1 x LM2596 DC-DC Step Down Converter
(Delivery with seated metal pack)
Last edited:
I think the best place to start is to get a multi-meter. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight Tools($5-$20). Get one that can measure Volts DC, Volts AC (not for this application) and Resistance in Ohms. Measuring electrical current (Amperes or Amps) is sometimes nice but not necessary for this application. If you're wanting to learn it's the very first tool you need and it doesn't have to be an expensive one. A decent soldering iron (pencil type) with a fine tip would be second (not the cheapest one you can find). A spool of solder, a pack of solder wicking (for mistakes), a pair of small diagonal cutters and a pair of small needle nose pliers and you're ready to do all kinds of damage.
On second thought.... If you got to the point where you were able to try the "volume control" and it worked (at 0 ohms on your potentiometer) then you probably already have most of those tools and you probably have more knowledge about electronics than you think but just in case..... I'm going to leave it all there for you to look over.
When you say "get something working" it sounds like you already have it working just not working properly and you are VERY VERY close to having it work properly. Radio Shack probably doesn't have a 200 ohm linear potentiometer so you can either order one online or get a 1K Ohm (1,000 Ohm) pot at Radio Shack and get a much better result than what you have now and you can get a resistor to put in parallel with that 1K pot (I think 250 ohm 1/8 watt) and get exactly the range that this application is calling for.
Series resistance is easy to calculate (R1 + R2 ... + Rn)
Parallel resistance is a little tricky to calculate
So either get a 200 ohm pot online or a local supplier better than Radio Shack Or.... use my math and do the 1K pot and 250 ohm resistor from Radio Shack wired in parallel which ever works best for you. Radio Shack probably doesn't have a 250 ohm resistor either but a 220 would get you so close that there wouldn't be much to argue about.
Some online suppliers are Mouser, Digi-key, Newark, and Jameco if you want to go that route but shipping will likely be more than the cost of the pot.
similar application here... might give you a place to start:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...6-very-easy-vv-mod-w-switching-regulator.html
Looks like the only difference is footprint... Mamu's find is 1.5" x 1.5" and it looks like santo's find is 2" x 1"
... oh and it looks like you'll have to solder the vin and voutwires on santo's version.
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link here,
LM2596 DC Step Down Converter Adjustable Power Module on eBay (end time 27-Feb-11 10:11:32 GMT)
LM2596 DC Step Down Converter Adjustable Power Module on eBay (end time 27-Feb-11 10:11:32 GMT)
LM2596 Step Down Adjustable DC-DC Power Supply Module - eBay (item 120631004621 end time Mar-06-11 00:05:23 PST)
Well it looks like I've got it figured out. Thanks for your help. Going to design a box Tom at work hope all goes well from there then.
santo it looks like that doesn't require any external parts. Is that how you see it. That's a great price. Are you planning on ordering one? or two, or three?
I'm sure it'll go well for you. I used BigBlues example and added a digital meter and panel mount pot for easy access and I like this thing just as much as the ProVari only this one is much more economical. Thank you from me to BigBlue for finding this chipset. It was free, it runs very cool as it's name implies and it's nice and small. Today I made another one for my wife and she likes hers too. We're using them at home and in the car while using the ProVari when out and afoot.
Oh, I did change one other thing for us... I reduced the pot from 200 to 150 ohms just for personal preference.
Ok after a couple days of reading, re-reading, and research I now understand the circuit on this thing haha. Definitely gonna get started on this once I get home from my *extended* vacation.
My only question is about the capacitors. Does the type of capacitor used matter much? It says Tantalum may only be used on the output bus but does it really make a difference for our application?
My only question is about the capacitors. Does the type of capacitor used matter much? It says Tantalum may only be used on the output bus but does it really make a difference for our application?
ZoSo, I think one person mentioned something about using Electolytics in here. Maybe they can chime in. I'm guessing that the Tant Caps are the smallest form factor though.
The only help I can offer is that I'm using the same ones that bigblue (OP) used and they're working fine (Tant Caps). No lines in the TV, no hum on the radio and the metal plate in my head isn't vibrating. If you have a pace maker you might want to do more research into it. You can always refer to the data sheet on the chipset and make your own determination. There are quite a few options there.
Data Sheet: PTR08100WVD Module DC-DC 1-OUT 0.6V to 5.5V 10A 5-Pin SIP Module
Sorry I couldn't answer the question more specifically.
Hey, I just thought of something... it's not very scientific but.... The device that santo found a few posts back on eBay LM2596 Step Down Adjustable DC-DC Power Supply Module has the caps already installed on the board and they're electolytic. Problem with this line of thinking is that while the two devices perform virtually the same work they are not the same chipsets and therefore may have entirely different requirements for the input and output caps. I'm not saying they (Electrolytics) will work with bigblues EverCool. Just food for thought.
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Thanks for the reply, rchriste.
Sounds like it's not a big deal. I'll just see what my local electronics shop has and see how big they are and go from there. I'm not planning on installing an led so I'll probably have some room to work with. I'm also gonna see what they have for NC tactile switches to see if I want to go that route. I've always just used the pushbutton switch from radioshack in the Nicostick tutorial.
This thread is well deserving of a sticky, btw (imo). Maybe someone could write a tutorial.
Sounds like it's not a big deal. I'll just see what my local electronics shop has and see how big they are and go from there. I'm not planning on installing an led so I'll probably have some room to work with. I'm also gonna see what they have for NC tactile switches to see if I want to go that route. I've always just used the pushbutton switch from radioshack in the Nicostick tutorial.
This thread is well deserving of a sticky, btw (imo). Maybe someone could write a tutorial.
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Here's mine 
10440s and tiny
10440 Evercool Mod - Imgur
It's a little messy but Rev2 should be much cleaner and add in a voltage meter. I'm going to replace the crappy batt box with clips I made out of a fuse holder from radio shack.
10440s and tiny10440 Evercool Mod - Imgur
It's a little messy but Rev2 should be much cleaner and add in a voltage meter. I'm going to replace the crappy batt box with clips I made out of a fuse holder from radio shack.
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Here's mine
10440 Evercool Mod - Imgur
It's a little messy but Rev2 should be much cleaner and add in a voltage meter. I'm going to replace the crappy batt box with clips I made out of a fuse holder from radio shack.
Nicely done Jair. You don't need a screwdriver! ZoSo was just asking about using electrolytics. I guess you've just answered his question. They do have a larger form factor but as long as they fit, they're cheaper right? How much vaping do you get out of the 10440 batts?
Thanks!
This version requires a screwdriver to get inside. Next rev I'm hoping to replace the screws with magnets.
The electrolytic caps are working fine and IIRC the TI datasheet says they can be used. Not sure about the price of the caps. I might try tracking down some tant caps for the next build. The batts were pretty cheap, about 3.50 from CoV. It's hard to say exactly how long I get out of the 10440s, but I want to say around 3-4 hrs. Not really ideal, but I love the small size of this thing. Once I switch to magnets for holding the cover on, I'll prolly start carrying it around more. It's a pain to field swap batts right now though.
This version requires a screwdriver to get inside
. Next rev I'm hoping to replace the screws with magnets.The electrolytic caps are working fine and IIRC the TI datasheet says they can be used. Not sure about the price of the caps. I might try tracking down some tant caps for the next build. The batts were pretty cheap, about 3.50 from CoV. It's hard to say exactly how long I get out of the 10440s, but I want to say around 3-4 hrs. Not really ideal, but I love the small size of this thing. Once I switch to magnets for holding the cover on, I'll prolly start carrying it around more. It's a pain to field swap batts right now though.
Oh, one question I've been meaning to ask. Apologies if it's been asked, I've read most of this huge thread but could have missed it. I'm using the TI module. I know the chip is rated for 5.5V max output, but it hits a little over 6V using the 200 ohm resistor. Has anyone frequently pushed theirs over the 5.5V max for any length of time? If so, how well did it stand up to the punishment?
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