Living in an "And" World is always preferred over an "Or" one..... 
eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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I was curious about what amps were displayed during firing. So I got up close to a mirror and watched the amp display while I was firing. I saw about4.5 amps for a fraction of a second then 1-2 amps after that. Steamengine predicts I'm using about 5 amps at 30 max watts so they are close. Another way would be to video the display when
What Joytech might be able to do that would be quite useful is give us an amps counter similar to the puff timer. You reset to zero then the device accumulates the amp hours as the day wears on. It would be a way to estimate remaining battery life and a way to see how far off a battery is from it's original endurance. There are two possibilities. They can do it with reletive ease or it's impossible with the current board. If it can be done they should do it. Has anyone tried making product suggestions to Joytech? I'd love to have an amps counter.
In the mean time the vtc mini is what I use everyday all day everywhere. With a reasonably fresh LG HG2 it's capable of going through an entire day, with my settings, on one charge.
anyone succeeded on downloading (and installing) vtc mini v3.01 upgrade software on a Mac?
the joyetech site mentioned a 3.6mb zip file to be downloaded, but the downloaded file size is only 800kb-ish in size, downloaded successfully but resulting errors when unziping and installing the pkg file.
well, mine running v3 works fine (too fine i got bored sometimes), but i was just curious on the new FW.
anyone? or maybe i should find me self a windows box
the joyetech site mentioned a 3.6mb zip file to be downloaded, but the downloaded file size is only 800kb-ish in size, downloaded successfully but resulting errors when unziping and installing the pkg file.
well, mine running v3 works fine (too fine i got bored sometimes), but i was just curious on the new FW.
anyone? or maybe i should find me self a windows box
It sounds like something they'll hear about, and swap in the proper zip file.
But you could send them a note about it anyway.
Then check back tomorrow and try again.
The Start mode is really for Cubis owners (odd sort of coil head).
It's the fix for watts adjust in TC that we wanted, but you've gone this long, eh?
But you could send them a note about it anyway.
Then check back tomorrow and try again.
The Start mode is really for Cubis owners (odd sort of coil head).
It's the fix for watts adjust in TC that we wanted, but you've gone this long, eh?
LOL bought cubis (ss colored) (well its not colored actually it was just unpainted) and works ok on my VTC mini, tried their 0.5ohm coil supplied, it's a crap
tried the 1ohm coil supplied, HEAVEN. never tried the other coil (ss i think). sold my ss cubis and waiting for a gold or cyan cubis to be available in local stores. their 1ohm kanthal coil is really good.
yea i'll check back to their download site tomorrow or, well, maybe i won't haha. my vtc mini is working flawlessly in both tc (ti coil) and power (tootling coil)
((((tootling coil))))
hmmm.. my fingers typed that automatically.
tried the 1ohm coil supplied, HEAVEN. never tried the other coil (ss i think). sold my ss cubis and waiting for a gold or cyan cubis to be available in local stores. their 1ohm kanthal coil is really good.
yea i'll check back to their download site tomorrow or, well, maybe i won't haha. my vtc mini is working flawlessly in both tc (ti coil) and power (tootling coil)
((((tootling coil))))
hmmm.. my fingers typed that automatically.
WOOHOO solved that
i manually open the content of the broken zip file, and copy the new FW 3.01 bin file to resource folder in the previously installed updatefirmware.app in my application folder.
updated!!!
not much to see tho... BUT HEY
1. now i can adjuct the wattage in TC mode UP and DOWN
2. ....
well im too happy with this ONE change, i don't have the time to explore other departments
i manually open the content of the broken zip file, and copy the new FW 3.01 bin file to resource folder in the previously installed updatefirmware.app in my application folder.
updated!!!
not much to see tho... BUT HEY
1. now i can adjuct the wattage in TC mode UP and DOWN
2. ....
well im too happy with this ONE change, i don't have the time to explore other departments
The amp readout is useful even though you can't see it while your taking a puff. Press the fire button without taking a puff and note the max amps displayed. Assuming it's accurate compare that value with the amps rating of the battery you are using. Steamengine predicts my setup should draw 5 amps. The readout on the mini says 4.5 amps. They aren't identical but close enought to tell me I'm drawing far below the 20 amp rating of the battery and since i'm in temp control that amp level drops off in a fraction of a second. Battery safety.
the amp reading got nothing to do with the amps pulled from the battery.
it tells you the amperage on the atomizer circuit. since the vtc mini is not a mech, the amps pulled from the battery are different than those delivered to the atty. atty resistance does NOT play a role here.
set power, battery voltage and degree of efficiency of the evic chip is what determines the amp pulled from the battery. unfortunately the evic doesn't tell you. so to be safe, use at least a 20A (30A might be advisable if you're above 60W) and DON'T RELY on the amp reading. it's a different amp
it tells you the amperage on the atomizer circuit. since the vtc mini is not a mech, the amps pulled from the battery are different than those delivered to the atty. atty resistance does NOT play a role here.
set power, battery voltage and degree of efficiency of the evic chip is what determines the amp pulled from the battery. unfortunately the evic doesn't tell you. so to be safe, use at least a 20A (30A might be advisable if you're above 60W) and DON'T RELY on the amp reading. it's a different amp
The 0.5 and 1ohm coils are both SS. The kanthal coil is the 1.5ohm claptonLOL bought cubis (ss colored) (well its not colored actually it was just unpainted) and works ok on my VTC mini, tried their 0.5ohm coil supplied, it's a crap
tried the 1ohm coil supplied, HEAVEN. never tried the other coil (ss i think). sold my ss cubis and waiting for a gold or cyan cubis to be available in local stores. their 1ohm kanthal coil is really good.
yea i'll check back to their download site tomorrow or, well, maybe i won't haha. my vtc mini is working flawlessly in both tc (ti coil) and power (tootling coil)
((((tootling coil))))
Yudes ss316L works great with default SS TCR, with custom it locks down instantly. Bought some SS317L, same thing... What the hell?
[emoji50] whoa i didnt notice that. since i always build my tc coil at around 0.2-0.3 ohm using Ti wire. never built an ss coil the flavor of that 1ohm ss coil really caught me off guard.
should find meself an ss wire and start to build one. thanks for the correction.
lesson in life: always RTFM. or at least content list on the packaging [emoji1]
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Thanks for that observation. I'sn't there some relationship between the two? Steamengine predicts 5 amps, the amps display shows 4.5 amps, a 10% difference. Is that the efficiency factor? There are chargers that estimate the mah supplied to a battery during charging. It would be nice to have that display in the mini for discharging, and why not charging too? May be that can be done with software on the existing board. Joytech would know about that. My phone can display that information.the amp reading got nothing to do with the amps pulled from the battery.
it tells you the amperage on the atomizer circuit. since the vtc mini is not a mech, the amps pulled from the battery are different than those delivered to the atty. atty resistance does NOT play a role here.
set power, battery voltage and degree of efficiency of the evic chip is what determines the amp pulled from the battery. unfortunately the evic doesn't tell you. so to be safe, use at least a 20A (30A might be advisable if you're above 60W) and DON'T RELY on the amp reading. it's a different amp
PBusardo did one of his factory visit videos to Joytech very recently. If you are a joytech customer I think it's worth watching. The video includes a tour of the Cuboid final assembly line.
There is a relationship between what you calculated in steam-engine and what is shown there, if your steam-engine calculation shows you the amps on the atty side.
Again, it has nothing (almost, given fluctuating efficiency with different resistances) to do with what the mod pulls from the battery. The only settings that influences that is your actual wattage, batt voltage and mod efficiency.
I'm not too familiar with all of steamengine's options. But if you're doing an "Ohm's Law" calculation you're calculating the atty amps. And that should match what the Evic display - so 4.5 vs 5 is imho a good match.
However you need to take current battery voltage, efficiency and watts to have an idea what's pulled from the battery.
Seems like steam-engine's "Battery drain" in combination with "regulated APV" does just that. It shows you "what hits the atty" and "what taxes your battery".
In this example @1 Ohm/40 Watt you have a nice 6.5A coming to the atty, however @90% efficiency (which is a very optimistic guess to me) and batt down to 3.2 under load (which afair is the lowest the VTC would fire) you're already pulling almost 14A from the battery. And the efficiency might be way worse...
Edit: deep linking to s-e didn't work. So here's a screenshot
Don't want to be picky, but that is imho a common and dangerous misunderstanding.
So always pay good attention to what batteries you put inside your mods
PS: Yes, it would be great if the Evic displayed both while firing. Don't know if "Joyetech" can really measure that value or merely calculate it given the factors I stated above which they would know/have available to calculate with. However it might still be misleading/wrong if efficiency drops for any reason. A good measurement would sure help
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The video of the guy who caught himself on fire with a loose battery did the world a favor. He should get a public service award. I've been doing about every safe practice I know about and trying to understand all the electrical varibles. I'm getting impatient with the slow pace of my learning.
There is a relationship between what you calculated in steam-engine and what is shown there, if your steam-engine calculation shows you the amps on the atty side.
Again, it has nothing (almost, given fluctuating efficiency with different resistances) to do with what the mod pulls from the battery. The only settings that influences that is your actual wattage, batt voltage and mod efficiency.
I'm not too familiar with all of steamengine's options. But if you're doing an "Ohm's Law" calculation you're calculating the atty amps. And that should match what the Evic display - so 4.5 vs 5 is imho a good match.
However you need to take current battery voltage, efficiency and watts to have an idea what's pulled from the battery.
Seems like steam-engine's "Battery drain" in combination with "regulated APV" does just that. It shows you "what hits the atty" and "what taxes your battery".
In this example @1 Ohm/40 Watt you have a nice 6.5A coming to the atty, however @90% efficiency (which is a very optimistic guess to me) and batt down to 3.2 under load (which afair is the lowest the VTC would fire) you're already pulling almost 14A from the battery. And the efficiency might be way worse...
Edit: deep linking to s-e didn't work. So here's a screenshot
View attachment 534955
Don't want to be picky, but that is imho a common and dangerous misunderstanding.
So always pay good attention to what batteries you put inside your mods
PS: Yes, it would be great if the Evic displayed both while firing. Don't know if "Joyetech" can really measure that value or merely calculate it given the factors I stated above which they would know/have available to calculate with. However it might still be misleading/wrong if efficiency drops for any reason. A good measurement would sure help
Intuition tells me higher ohm coils turn electricity into heat more efficiently than lower ohm coils. The "battery drain" value seems to be about that but I'm not sure. The steam engine developer doesn't document his calculations so I can't be sure what they mean. To keep it on topic what useful information is provided by the amps readout on the VTC mini that can be helpful to safety?
I did the update on A Mac it worked. & it fixed the watt adjust forward & backward on TC.It sounds like something they'll hear about, and swap in the proper zip file.
But you could send them a note about it anyway.
Then check back tomorrow and try again.
The Start mode is really for Cubis owners (odd sort of coil head).
It's the fix for watts adjust in TC that we wanted, but you've gone this long, eh?
I replaced a wick this evening. To clean the coil with some gentle dry firing I left the mod in temp control and turned the temp to 600 degrees. When I fired the coil it got faintly red. Does anyone know the temp were stainless starts to show color from heat? Is it as low as 600 degrees? If the mod is reading wrong is there a way I can use TCR to adjust it?
Thanks for any assistance.
Thanks for any assistance.
Yeah but but it sure looked cool. Like a rocket going off. The venting must've been working, good thing he had his pants around his knees or he might have fried his weiner.
I think what your looking for is like any YiHi board has a Joules counter that you know how many total Joules you get on any given battery so you know where your battery level is. I don't know if that is possible with watts or not.
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