eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Yep, dual twisted 28 gauge at 0.25 ohms in a Subtank Mini. 230F in Ti mode.
For anyone still having issues,
I tried to replicate the issue and noticed two variable's that had a similar effect for me.
I have had no problems with my kanger subtank plus with air flow wide open( I inhale hard), chain vaping in TC mode with japanese cotton wicks, a single 28g ni200, 0.08/0.07ohm coil, but have been running a twisted (the wire wrapped around itself using a drill) 28g ni200, 0.05ohm coil, dont want to quote wraps as I can't remember and am not willing to pull it apart again!.... but if you really want to know when I recoil it I will let you know. The only reason I have had to stop at any time is because of the tank heating up WAY too much due to chaining.
The twisted coil has been giving me a hot vape at 500f and nice vape at 470f ( I always have the watts at max and let the mod regulate it from there) with above average clouds and flavour. It does fluctuate/pulse the heat over a 8 second pull but this is what it is supposed to do!
All test's were done at 470f and max watts using kanger subtank plus rba with air flow wide open and twisted 28g ni200 0.05hm coils.
So I over wicked covering my juice holes and had a few ihales on it and this resulted in a cold, low to no vapor inhale and "protection" warning, the first inhale was OK but went downhill after that
I underwicked and had the same issue, as well as unburnt juice spitting into my mouth
I tried the same setups on a sigelei 75w TC and low and behold the over wicked one worked, but only for 3 to 4 seconds and then tc protection kicked in, tried again and same result with a slight off taste so stopped.
The under wicked one did the same 3 to 4 second pull and then came the off taste just befor a burnt wick
So different mods work differently, maybe the mini is a little more sensative to minute changes in tempriture, so saying it worked on "insert brand here" but not on the mini isnt really aples for apples.
When I rewicked and went back to my mini I had a sinking feeling as the vape was cold and non existant!!!!! How do I fix this??? I know lets check the wick, I pushed it clear of the juice slots and it improved, but not to what I know it should be, hmmm I then took off the tank and checked the pin on the tank, wiped it and cleaned and pushed the pin on the mini in and out a couple of times and BAM Im back where should be,
So my advice is three fold,
1) Correct wicking is crucial for preformance and only trial and error has been my guide for my setup
2) Contacts are importent, check your post on you mod and tank are clean and move easily and have not been jammed into place ( I think what had happened to mine was I removed the tank when the mini and tank were hot and the pin on the mini stuck in place and wasnt moving freely and not contacting properly)
3) As for pre built coils thay are always hit and miss due to mass production and infrequent quality control testing, I have always had issue getting regular experiences from pre made coils on all tanks Ive had
If you are 100% sure all of these things are not causing the problems then Id be asking for a repair/preplacement
Hope this helps someone.
Peace
I tried to replicate the issue and noticed two variable's that had a similar effect for me.
I have had no problems with my kanger subtank plus with air flow wide open( I inhale hard), chain vaping in TC mode with japanese cotton wicks, a single 28g ni200, 0.08/0.07ohm coil, but have been running a twisted (the wire wrapped around itself using a drill) 28g ni200, 0.05ohm coil, dont want to quote wraps as I can't remember and am not willing to pull it apart again!.... but if you really want to know when I recoil it I will let you know. The only reason I have had to stop at any time is because of the tank heating up WAY too much due to chaining.
The twisted coil has been giving me a hot vape at 500f and nice vape at 470f ( I always have the watts at max and let the mod regulate it from there) with above average clouds and flavour. It does fluctuate/pulse the heat over a 8 second pull but this is what it is supposed to do!
All test's were done at 470f and max watts using kanger subtank plus rba with air flow wide open and twisted 28g ni200 0.05hm coils.
So I over wicked covering my juice holes and had a few ihales on it and this resulted in a cold, low to no vapor inhale and "protection" warning, the first inhale was OK but went downhill after that
I underwicked and had the same issue, as well as unburnt juice spitting into my mouth
I tried the same setups on a sigelei 75w TC and low and behold the over wicked one worked, but only for 3 to 4 seconds and then tc protection kicked in, tried again and same result with a slight off taste so stopped.
The under wicked one did the same 3 to 4 second pull and then came the off taste just befor a burnt wick
So different mods work differently, maybe the mini is a little more sensative to minute changes in tempriture, so saying it worked on "insert brand here" but not on the mini isnt really aples for apples.
When I rewicked and went back to my mini I had a sinking feeling as the vape was cold and non existant!!!!! How do I fix this??? I know lets check the wick, I pushed it clear of the juice slots and it improved, but not to what I know it should be, hmmm I then took off the tank and checked the pin on the tank, wiped it and cleaned and pushed the pin on the mini in and out a couple of times and BAM Im back where should be,
So my advice is three fold,
1) Correct wicking is crucial for preformance and only trial and error has been my guide for my setup
2) Contacts are importent, check your post on you mod and tank are clean and move easily and have not been jammed into place ( I think what had happened to mine was I removed the tank when the mini and tank were hot and the pin on the mini stuck in place and wasnt moving freely and not contacting properly)
3) As for pre built coils thay are always hit and miss due to mass production and infrequent quality control testing, I have always had issue getting regular experiences from pre made coils on all tanks Ive had
If you are 100% sure all of these things are not causing the problems then Id be asking for a repair/preplacement
Hope this helps someone.
Peace
here's something from me:
eVic-VTC mini 60w Firmware upgradeable ...
Mod was with me from 21.10. I want to write a few words.
Mod is a small, very compact and solid.
The battery cover is held by two powerful magnets, and they are doing an excellent job.
Removable battery 18650
It has a large display (0.96inch)
The front of the device is located and USB port.
The keys are firm but not too tight.
Device comes in three colors, black, white and cyan.
The display is large and clear, and shows wats, Ohm-s, battery status, Ampers
The temperature shows in Faraday and Celsius.
Device goes up to 60w and can be easily upgraded to 75 W
eVic-VTC Mini Firmware Version 1.10 is available now!
With mode comes USB cable and instructions, and I think it is the best buy on the market
Main Features:
Authentic Joyetech eVic-VTC mini 60W temperature control box mod
Material: Stainless Steel ( minor parts may be made in non-SS )
Output mode: VT-Ti / VT-Ni / VW / Bypass Mode
Resistance range for VT mode: 0.05 - 1.0ohm
Resistance range for VW / Bypass mode: 0.1 - 3.5ohm
Output wattage range: 1 - 60W
Temperature range: 100 - 315C / 200-600F
Micro-USB charging port ( USB charging cable included )
Power by replaceable single 18650 battery ( not included )
Magnetic battery cover
510 thread spring connector
Colors: Black, white, cyan
eVic-VTC mini 60w Firmware upgradeable ...
Mod was with me from 21.10. I want to write a few words.
Mod is a small, very compact and solid.
The battery cover is held by two powerful magnets, and they are doing an excellent job.
Removable battery 18650
It has a large display (0.96inch)
The front of the device is located and USB port.
The keys are firm but not too tight.
Device comes in three colors, black, white and cyan.
The display is large and clear, and shows wats, Ohm-s, battery status, Ampers
The temperature shows in Faraday and Celsius.
Device goes up to 60w and can be easily upgraded to 75 W
eVic-VTC Mini Firmware Version 1.10 is available now!
With mode comes USB cable and instructions, and I think it is the best buy on the market
Main Features:
Authentic Joyetech eVic-VTC mini 60W temperature control box mod
Material: Stainless Steel ( minor parts may be made in non-SS )
Output mode: VT-Ti / VT-Ni / VW / Bypass Mode
Resistance range for VT mode: 0.05 - 1.0ohm
Resistance range for VW / Bypass mode: 0.1 - 3.5ohm
Output wattage range: 1 - 60W
Temperature range: 100 - 315C / 200-600F
Micro-USB charging port ( USB charging cable included )
Power by replaceable single 18650 battery ( not included )
Magnetic battery cover
510 thread spring connector
Colors: Black, white, cyan
The most current FW is 2.0 and 1.30 (same functionality with different displays).
And while Faraday would certainly have enjoyed the strength of today's small rare earth magnets, I doubt his focus would have been the temperature scale. 
I am guessing that English is not their native language it is being translated that way? They made the same kind of post about the IPV D2 and the Cloudpor GT in those respective threads. 
@hrvoje are you saying you own an Evic VTC mini and enjoy it?
@hrvoje are you saying you own an Evic VTC mini and enjoy it?
I was having no issues with the 2.0 firmware using SS TC mode. Then I decided I preferred the look of the old screen and went to 1.30. I started having some odd issues with weak vapes in SS TC mode. I went back to 2.0 and it's fine again. This was all with the same tank and coil. There isn't supposed to be functional differences between the 2 firmware versions, but for me, 2.0 is trouble free and 1.30 wasn't, at least with my hardware.
Simply because no note is present, does not prevent changes to other features of Firmware - i.e. algorithm updates
Makes sense. That was my suspicion based on how differently the mod acted with each version. I wanted to post about it in case anybody else was having problems with 1.30 but hadn't tried 2.0. Although it may just be a weird occurrence with my mod.
What grade of SS wire are you all using on the VTC Mini? For you who've tried several different grades, which seems to be most accurate?
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Anyone know what it means when it drops back into Power mode after a couple puffs in TC mode? I'm currently using 2.0 firmware, Crown RBA with a parallel 26ga SS 316L build at 0.18ohms. It was reading as 0.21ohms before I opened it up and checked/tightened all my connections, so I suspect it was dropping out of TC due to a loose connection, but I'm having difficulty finding info on this issue because all the search terms I can think of only bring up other issues people have had with this mod. So if anyone has experience with this issue or is better at using search than me, please give me a shout! Thanks!
That is my experience as well. A loose connection somewhere or possibly a coil touching where it shouldn't. Legit reasons to jump out of TC.Anyone know what it means when it drops back into Power mode after a couple puffs in TC mode? I'm currently using 2.0 firmware, Crown RBA with a parallel 26ga SS 316L build at 0.18ohms. It was reading as 0.21ohms before I opened it up and checked/tightened all my connections, so I suspect it was dropping out of TC due to a loose connection, but I'm having difficulty finding info on this issue because all the search terms I can think of only bring up other issues people have had with this mod. So if anyone has experience with this issue or is better at using search than me, please give me a shout! Thanks!
Anyone know what it means when it drops back into Power mode after a couple puffs in TC mode? I'm currently using 2.0 firmware, Crown RBA with a parallel 26ga SS 316L build at 0.18ohms. It was reading as 0.21ohms before I opened it up and checked/tightened all my connections, so I suspect it was dropping out of TC due to a loose connection, but I'm having difficulty finding info on this issue because all the search terms I can think of only bring up other issues people have had with this mod. So if anyone has experience with this issue or is better at using search than me, please give me a shout! Thanks!
I'd guess that it's the parallel build. Are the coils spaced (only touching at the connection point)? I've only had SS TC issues with contact coils or twisted SS wire with the VTC. I'm vaping fine right now with a .52 ohm 26 gauge single wire coil in the Crown RBA. I had a .3 ohm 24 gauge SS build in it for the last few days and it was also rock solid. Just make sure the coils are spaced.
I've only used 316. I don't think the VTC is anywhere near accurate with any type of wire. The trick is to play around with the setting until you find something that works. i can safely say that I'm getting zero dry hits at 450F/15W setting.
I don't think the problem is your coils or connection. I'm on my second vtc and it's doing the same thing. In nickel and titanium it works flawless, but with ss it keeps going into power mode. Sometimes It'll stay in ss mode for a while sometimes it won't. I just think they need to adjust the sensitivity of ss mode to detect the smaller resistance changes of ss. Both of my vtc's did this. They do this with all my atomizers regardless if it's a micro or spaced coil. I really think the problem here is software.Anyone know what it means when it drops back into Power mode after a couple puffs in TC mode? I'm currently using 2.0 firmware, Crown RBA with a parallel 26ga SS 316L build at 0.18ohms. It was reading as 0.21ohms before I opened it up and checked/tightened all my connections, so I suspect it was dropping out of TC due to a loose connection, but I'm having difficulty finding info on this issue because all the search terms I can think of only bring up other issues people have had with this mod. So if anyone has experience with this issue or is better at using search than me, please give me a shout! Thanks!
For now I'm using ss in ti mode. You just have to drop temp a lot. In ti mode my ss coils work fine.
Meanwhile heres what i swapped one of my Mini's for, havent got around to trying TC on it as i just picked it up from the post office and have to go do some work, and
since i had to use the Mini in VW only have a kanthal build in the Lemo 2. But, well..TreeBox. Stupid light and quite classy looking
since i had to use the Mini in VW only have a kanthal build in the Lemo 2. But, well..TreeBox. Stupid light and quite classy looking
That hasn't happened to me at all with SS unless I used a bad build. With a single wire spaced SS build it has never once thrown me out of TC mode since the 2.00 firmware. It locks in and vapes beautifully in TC every time with lots of different builds. I have heard that some people have had issues when the watts were maxed out. It may be useful to keep the watts set at 60 or below. Stainless steel heats up lightning fast. I've had the best results going with medium watt settings. Hitting a SS coil with a full 75 watts may heat the coil just a bit too much.
That's great that yours doesn't have a problem. 2 of mine have and so have several others so I don't know what your point is.
My point is lots of people have no issue with the VTC throwing stainless steel out of TC. If you have 2 mods that keep throwing your SS atty out of TC it may be the mod, but it also may be the atomizer, your build, the settings, or some combination. If the problem is with both of your mods, then there's not much you can do other than returning them. If it's the atty or the build then it's probably worth ruling them out.
Most people with single-wire spaced SS coils have no problems using the 2.0 firmware. You said "I just think they need to adjust the sensitivity of ss mode to detect the smaller resistance changes of ss." If the firmware settings were off, more vapers would be having the same problem. My mod has the 2.0 firmware and the settings have been fine with a properly setup coil. My mod did throw 2 of my SS builds out of TC, but the problem was 100% the fault of those builds. Once I went back to single-strand spaced SS coils it worked flawlessly. There absolutely may be a real defect with both of your mods, but the default settings in the 2.0 firmware works fine on lots VTC Minis as long as the atomizer has a solid build.
- Status
Similar threads
