EVODs

[k1k1]

So I bought three EVODs in a sale online (the forum won't let me post a link for some reason, but the eBay listing is "EVOD MT3 1100mAh E Cigarette STarter Kit E Cig Vape Pen + Charger 24HR SALE!"; the packaging was a cardboard-backed blister pack with no branding whatsoever apart from the word 'EVOD', so I suspect it's not from one of the top manufacturers), and hoo daddy, what a pile of hot garbage they turned out to be. Within half an hour I'm looking at two broken batteries, both doing the thing where they seem fine when not connected to an atomiser but flash ten times when connected. Tried resetting the batteries (both with the button and on the charger) to no avail; tried them with a different atomiser (taking care not to over-tighten) and ditto. And even besides this, those gigantic batteries seemed to hold a pathetic amount of charge, producing weak vapour after about five minutes.

I gather that EVOD is a model type rather than a brand, so my question is: is this what I can expect from any EVOD? It seems unlikely, as the EVOD is apparently a popular model and I'm sure people wouldn't be using it if they'd all had the experience I've just had, but obviously I'm now quite hesitant about buying any e-cig with those four letters attached to it! Can anyone recommend a good EVOD, or any similar alternative - ie., a cheap, simple e-cig with good throat hit that isn't a flimsy, unreliable piece of crap?

 

[Eskie]

You could just get an authentic Kanger EVOD. At least you'll know who made it. There are lots of other pen like mods on the market these days and you may want to explore that before deciding on your next purchase.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Use eBay's satisfaction guaranteed thingie and get your money back.

Don't buy e-cig stuff from eBay unless you know exactly what you're getting and who you're getting it from.

 

[93gc40]

10X flash is battery telling you the voltage is low if I recall... it's the sign fo charge the battery...... either that or it the short /bad connection warning. Meaning the mod or coil are shorting out and bad.

Been awhile since I used those batteries and tanks.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[k1k1]

Use eBay's satisfaction guaranteed thingie and get your money back.

Turned out that wasn't necessary; the seller was happy to give me an immediate refund and didn't even want the products back (possibly a bit of a tacit admission that they knew they'd sold me a basket of lemons).

I have found, however, that the EVOD atomisers work very well with the batteries from the 88Vape kit (£6 from the local supermarket) that I was using previously. So my new question is: I know it's not wise to use a non-regulation charger, but is there any risk with using one brand of battery with a different brand of atomiser? I've got no idea what wattage (or whatever) either the EVOD or the 88Vape use, so I don't know whether I'm using a battery with higher power than what was intended for the atomiser, or lower, or the same.

 

[stols001]

There is usually no functional connection issues in using one brand of atomizer and another brand of battery, no. Most everything (non proprietary and pod mod) uses a 510 connection and pin. If you can get the tank to "read" (meaning vape with it) well, you should be fine. I am afraid I don't know the total specifics of that brand or what topper, but the only issue I could see you running into would be that the tank has to be of high enough resistance (the coils, I guess) that your smallish fairly low power battery will power it sufficiently. So if it's working and you are satisfied, I'd say you are probably good to go. If the tanks coils are too much for the battery, you will get a weak, anemic vape, etc or the battery won't fire the tank. Doesn't seem to be the case here.

I will say, for your next purchase, get some recommendations (you want at least one backup) and when you can afford it. Some good starter setups might be the Aspire Zelos kit, you can adjust the wattage and there are various options for the (nautilus 2) tank that comes with it. I started on that more or less, this time around. The Pico kit (there are many of them now also the zelos, although if you can still find it, the 50 watt may be plenty for your needs although I believe they make a 75 watt model (both internal battery mods). The pic comes with the option of a external battery these days although you can get an internal battery, charge via USB port model too, the current kit is a bit airier (probably) than what may be using now but many folks like them.

But do your due diligence (when you are ready) and do NOT order from Ebay. Except for certain specialized things, and some manufacturers do have ebay stores, for the most part, buying such low end gear you are going to get hosed. I too found this out the hard way. I now (if I am buying from ebay at all) do my due diligence and etc.

A backup vape is good in case anything happens to yours, but if you decide to get one, post a question on the forum, or check out some of the other areas of the forum for reviews, suggestions, and sales. Vapecrawler.com is not a BAD resource for figuring out where to find decent deals (they may not be the MOST rock bottom prices and sellers do pay a commission for listing there, but it will give you a sense for where you can find items, at US and also China direct stores, often a good resource if you can wait a while for equipment.)

Best of luck, and welcome Ask any more questions you have, and I probably gave you Too Much info but oh well it may be helpful in the future. Good luck,

Anna

 

[JCinFLA]

@k1k1 - If you want to still get a tube shaped set-up that's somewhat similar to what you're used to, and you like authentic KangerTech products...I'd highly recommend the following 2 tried and true set-ups below. I own/use both of these, and have set up new vapers with them, too. They're not new, current products out on the market, but...they work well, are very easy to use, are reliable, aren't very expensive, and can still be found for sale. Links are just so you can go see each one and check out the specs and info for them.

I see you're in London, so you may want to get/order one from somewhere closer to you if you can find them. However, FastTech (located in China), does have them for pretty good prices, especially the Evod Mega price! Coils for either kit would also be less expensive from them than from a local shop. Just make sure to get authentic KangerTech, not ones that just say Replacement coils for ______.

KangerTech Evod Mega Kit - (comes with large 1900mAh battery, matching bottomfill 2.5mL tank, Micro USB cable, and 1 1.5ohm coil). Coils it takes are the KangerTech Dual Coil ones in the white box, and available ohms are 1.2, 1.5, and 1.8 for above ohm vaping. If you like a smaller bore drip tip for MTL vaping, this one is much smaller than the Subvod below.

$17.03 Authentic KangerTech EVOD Mega 1900mAh Rechargeable Starter Kit - 2.5ml / 1.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping - comes in 5 colors you can select from the dropdown box

KangerTech Subvod Starter Kit - (comes with large 1300mAh battery, matching topfill TopTank Nano 3.2mL tank, 1 Micro USB cable, 1 0.5ohm coil, and 1 replacement glass). However, those SSOCC coils are also available in 1.2ohms and 1.5ohms, too, if you don't want to subohm vape.

$26.92 Authentic KangerTech SUBVOD Starter Kit - 1300mAh battery / 3.2ml toptank nano / 0.5 Sub ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping - - also comes in various colors

 

[bwh79]

I know it's not wise to use a non-regulation charger, but is there any risk with using one brand of battery with a different brand of atomiser?

Shouldn't be, no. The worst that can happen is the electricity flows the "wrong way" through the heating wire. Some brands (Blu) use the same "510" threaded connection, but have reversed polarity (center-negative) on their batteries. Of course, in the atomizer it's just a piece of metal wire, and doesn't really care which direction the electrons are moving. Now, if you have the wrong charger for the battery and are trying to force electrons into it from the "wrong end" then things might get more "exciting" but just operating an atomizer "backwards" shouldn't pose any problems at all.

 

[k1k1]

Thanks to everyone for the detailed replies! I'm currently looking at a Kanger Evod Top as I've discovered that I can't stand the bottom-loading tanks; I'm completely used to loading from the top and consequently I've already emptied one bottom-loader into my lap when removing the tank from the coil. Really I'm just looking for something cheap (the Kanger Top is only £10 from the dreaded eBay) and brainless (I don't want to have to tweak any settings) - and which won't break in two days, as I don't like the idea that I'm filling the world up with dead coils.

JCinFLA, I'm afraid your post was a little too in-depth for me; I don't know what the ohm sizes mean, or what SSOCC means, or what a 'small bore drip tip' is. The funny thing is, I've been vaping for nigh on ten years now but I've never had to learn any of this stuff because up until a month or so ago, the only e-cig I'd used is the DSE901 - literally the first one ever made! When I asked the guy in the local vape shop if he had any 901 batteries, he laughed in my face and called it a 'museum piece'...

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

I've got no idea what wattage (or whatever) either the EVOD or the 88Vape use, so I don't know whether I'm using a battery with higher power than what was intended for the atomiser, or lower, or the same.

The Evod is an "eGo" style battery device, and eGo also describes the type of connection between the atomizer and the battery device. Most eGo style devices have a hybrid connector which has 510 style threads on the inside as well as threading on the outside, letting you use either a 510 or eGo atomizer.

Unless it's called a "twist" or specifically called a variable voltage (VV) battery, your device provides the voltage remaining in the battery. The range is typically between 4.2v and 3.2v, a 1.0v range. The battery should stop firing the atomizer at 3.2v and should stop charging at 4.2v.

The wattage produced when you fire your atomizer is calculated using one of the equations derived through Ohm's Law. If you have a 1.5 Ohm atomizer and you have 3.7v remaining charge, you get 7.61 Watts because Watts = (Voltage x Voltage) / Resistance.

 

[CagedSpam]

A possible issue to be aware of. eGo batteries and Spinners and Twists were the rage 3+ years ago. If a person ends up with one of these old inventory batteries I would guess the cell would be in very poor shape and ready to be recycled, but IDK.

 

[JCinFLA]

Thanks to everyone for the detailed replies! I'm currently looking at a Kanger Evod Top as I've discovered that I can't stand the bottom-loading tanks

If you're talking about the KangerTech TopEvod Kit (comes in black, white, red, stainless steel)...that's a good one, too. It's just got a much smaller battery (650mAh) and tank, than the 2 I mentioned earlier. I also use 1 of the TopEvod's, and have several newbies using them, too. They just don't last as long before they need a charge and the little tanks don't hold as much eliquid.

The KangerTech Subvod Kit has the TopTank Nano that is a topfill tank. It also can take coils that are 1.2ohms or 1.5ohms. The TopEvod can use coils that are 1.5 or 1.8ohms. So basically, the main differences between those 2 (the TopEvod kit and the Subvod kit) are: 1) the battery capacity (how long it will last before needing to be recharged), and 2) how much eliquid the tanks hold.

Of the 3 kits mentioned though...the TopEvod will be more along the same size as what you're used to using. Both the Evod Mega battery and the Subvod kit battery are bigger around and longer than the TopEvod battery. Their tanks are also larger than the TopEvod tank.

JCinFLA, I'm afraid your post was a little too in-depth for me; I don't know what the ohm sizes mean, or what SSOCC means, or what a 'small bore drip tip' is.

Sorry about that. Maybe the following will help a little bit. I'll try to keep the explanation to "in a nutshell" or more basic. Hopefully, it will be.

The mAh of the battery will give you an indication of about how long a charge will last, before you need to recharge it. The higher the mAh...the longer you can use it before it needs a charge.

The ohms are the resistance of the coil. If you're a MTL vaper (you vape by bringing the vapor into your mouth, then a second later on down to your lungs... instead of pulling it deeply into your lungs right away). MTL is how most people used to smoke. Many people who vape that way, and who aren't interested in huge clouds of vapor, nor higher wattage, nor very warm vapor... use coils with resistances that are above 1.0 ohms. So, the 1.2ohm coils, the 1.5ohm coils, and the 1.8ohm coils are the ones they'll usually choose to use in their tanks for the kits I suggested.

The SSOCC means (stainless steel organic cotton coil). That lets people know the type of wire and type of wicking material that's used in that coil.

As far as "small bore drip tip"...I actually should have said the hole itself in the drip tip that the vapor passes through is smaller. It will therefore give you a draw more like when you were smoking a cigarette. A larger hole in the drip tip (like on the TopTank Nano) will be more airy than when you were smoking a cigarette.

I hope all that is a little easier to understand.

 

[listopencil]

I have been using the Joyetech EVOD Pro for quite a while. It has been robust under less than ideal conditions for years. It allows me to use my own 18650, fill it with my own fluid, and use a proprietary coil system with options that will match your vaping style. There has been released a V2 of the device with an internal battery built in and some forgiving airflow settings. I'd say that they are both decent vapes for the money (around $20 USD) paid to online suppliers. As I recall both mods make use of the same coils. Something like 0.5, 1.0, and 1.50 Ohms.

 

[listopencil]

You could just get an authentic Kanger EVOD. At least you'll know who made it. There are lots of other pen like mods on the market these days and you may want to explore that before deciding on your next purchase.

I second that emotion. Get an EVOD Pro, or an EVOD Pro 2 if you don't want to mess with batteries. They are still floating around at about $20 USD. Very simple, utilitarian devices.

 

[k1k1]

Many people who vape that way, and who aren't interested in huge clouds of vapor, nor higher wattage, nor very warm vapor... use coils with resistances that are above 1.0 ohms.

So you're saying that if you want a cigarette-like vape, you use higher ohms, and if you want big clouds of vapour, you use lower ohms? I would have guessed (just on the basis that "higher number equals more vapour") that it would be the other way round...

And, you seem to be saying that the TopEvod (which can take higher ohms) is potentially better for MTL (my chosen style as an ex-smoker) than the Subvod. Is that right?

Anyway, thanks to all for the advice; it's been educational! A quick update on those three EVODs: within another hour, the third battery had succumbed to the same issue as the other two, and now all three are effectively dead within about two hours of me receiving the e-cigs in the post. As for the atomisers (which, as I mentioned, I've been using with some different-brand batteries), the first one immediately had a disgusting burnt taste; I read that I should be 'priming' the coil before burning, so I let the second one soak for half an hour, but to my complete lack of surprise it too tasted foul from the get-go. The third one I soaked for two hours and it wan't too bad - but I can already taste that burnt flavour coming in and I confidently predict that it will be unusable by the time I go to bed tonight. So, lesson most definitely learned: if you're going to buy off-brand e-cigarettes from eBay, you may as well just tear a £10 note to shreds, wrap the bits in another £10 note, and smoke that instead. It will cost about the same but will save you a lot of time and stress and will probably taste better.

 

[bwh79]

So you're saying that if you want a cigarette-like vape, you use higher ohms, and if you want big clouds of vapour, you use lower ohms? I would have guessed (just on the basis that "higher number equals more vapour") that it would be the other way round...

Well it all depends on which number you're looking at. Some numbers make the vapor volume go up, some numbers make the vapor volume go down. Ohms are units of resistance. They're trying to stop (resist) the flow of electricity. The higher the resistance (ohms) is, the less electricity will be able to flow. Watts, on the other hand, are the units of power, or energy transfer. More watts = more energy per unit time applied to the heating element. The equation for calculating watts is:

Watts = Volts * Volts / Ohms

Note that since ohms are in the denominator, a larger number there actually correlates to a smaller number on the other side, where the watts are. So you can see, that (for a particular voltage), more ohms actually equals fewer watts. Fewer watts = lower power = less energy delivered per unit time.

 

[JCinFLA]

So you're saying that if you want a cigarette-like vape, you use higher ohms, and if you want big clouds of vapour, you use lower ohms?

Well...there are other things, too, that play a part in people getting a cigarette-like vape...or getting those huge vapor clouds, but the coils they each use play a big part. It seems backwards, but it's really not.

The ohms is not a power level (like volts or watts). Instead...it's a measure of the resistance the coil has, to the flow of electrons. Maybe this will help: Think of 2 hoses...1) your average garden hose, 2) the hose firefighters use to put out fires. If each one was connected to a water source and then the water was turned on...which one do you think would have less problem letting the water freely flow through it? The firehose, right? Because that hose has a larger opening (less resistance) to the free flow of the water.

That firehose is like a lower/below ohm coil. The garden hose is like a higher/above ohm coil. Those who are cloud-chasing vapers...want and need less resistance in their coils...to produce the clouds they seek.

The PG/VG ratio of their eliquids, the wattage they vape at, and other things also affect cloud-chasing vaping. But, the ohms of the coils is a "biggie".

Make sense?

ETA: Well, now I see that bwh79 has explained it very well while I was trying to compose and post my 2 cents. But, in the event that his still isn't quite "clicking" with you...I've left mine, too. Maybe with the 2 combined it'll make sense.

 

[JCinFLA]

Or...another example, since I have a horse. I have 2 different types of haybags for him. 1 is constructed with a more open weave of the nylon cord it's made from, so it's easy for him to pull the hay out of it. He can eat a bunch from it very quickly. 1 is constructed with a more tightly woven weave, so it's harder for him to get the hay out. He therefore can't eat it as quickly. My horse would prefer his hay to be put in the more open weave bag...because he meets less resistance getting the hay out of it. THAT bag is like a lower ohm coil is to a vaper.

 

[Belhade]

I still use old EVOD tanks and Ego and Twist batteries. I have two big Twists that are at least three years old, and even some of my 5 year old Ego batteries are still functional. They're my small/subtle/no big loss devices: if I'm walking out and about and don't want to fog up the sidewalks, or stealth vape indoors, or kayaking. I dropped one at the boat launch once; after rinsing off the Hudson River water and drying thoroughly (more or less) it's still in use.

 

[xan13x]

EVODs are definitely ok, at least the authentic ones. They're a budget pen style vape, but the kanger branded ones definitely do the job. They are a bit flimsy (last ones I used were a plastic tank wrapped in some alloy), and they don't take well to certain kinds of juice (read, they will melt if something corrosive sits in them).

As others have said, it's a case of buy once cry once. If you want something for tinkering/testing, a knock off can do the job without breaking the bank. If you plan on actually using something with any kind of regularity, you're usually vastly better off just buying the real thing and knowing it's very likely going to work for a long time.