So I'm wondering what the difference is, between the "N" & "M"?
They are both Kanthol Mesh, would the size of the hole make a significant difference?
They are both Kanthol Mesh, would the size of the hole make a significant difference?
We also have both versions of their HW series coils, I have never tried either as I don't have a Baby Beast or Ello tank.So I'm wondering what the difference is, between the "N" & "M"?
They are both Kanthol Mesh, would the size of the hole make a significant difference?
The EC-M coil will be the first one going into the A-Tank when it arrives this week, I'll let you know how it works out.
So I'm wondering what the difference is, between the "N" & "M"?
They are both Kanthol Mesh, would the size of the hole make a significant difference?
Never tried these but subjectively, based on my experiences and just looking at those 2 coils I would guess there would be little if any difference if evaluation was conducted blindly.
For my Profile RDA’s. the Kanthal NexMESH aftermarket strip has more holes per sq inch than the Kanthal Wotofo stock mesh strip. Within a comfortable operating range, say 50 to 60 watts, I cannot detect any differences. The NexMESH however can operate at higher wattages which does present a difference.
Now to compare apples to oranges, I also have Vandy Vape mesh, which is SS 316 and has a much higher hole/sq inch than the NexMESH. This is easily detectable.
Yes, don't bother trying 500 or even 325 in any of the higher wattage RDAs, I wouldn't go above 200. 
After watching several PAINFUL YT videos! Their saying the M coil spits back & the N coil does not! I say painful cause these reviewers aren't worth watching
I was going to make one last FT order before the CNY & can't decide whether to get the M or N ? I guess I'l just flip a coin
I'm curios how the mesh will work in a the A tank?
I was going to make one last FT order before the CNY & can't decide whether to get the M or N ? I guess I'l just flip a coin
I'm curios how the mesh will work in a the A tank?
Oh wow! They will fit a Baby Beast? There are tons of tanks that fits those coils. Probably one of the most common size for many sub tanks. They even fit in my Geek Vape Shield tanks. I love that flip top filling.
They fit all the Baby's as well as the Vaporesso NRG.
Speaking of Vaporesso, the GT Core Mesh work perfectly in the Baby as well, and people like them over the Smok mesh coils.
Any of your local B&M's should carry the EC-M 0.15 coils as they are used in the Melo series of tanks.After watching several PAINFUL YT videos! Their saying the M coil spits back & the N coil does not! I say painful cause these reviewers aren't worth watching
I was going to make one last FT order before the CNY & can't decide whether to get the M or N ? I guess I'l just flip a coin
I'm curios how the mesh will work in a the A tank?
Take a hard pass if any of them suggest the EC 0.5 Ceramic, pure junk.
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Enjoying a nice quiet evening with my BB Railbox (the other Billet Box) while it's -6°F (-21°C) outside before the big snow comes.
I bought some coils at Central Vapers and they had a cheap Coil Master Ohm Meter for a buck. I figured I am going to hate myself later for dropping one of these in my cart. As all of the other ones I have purchased couldn't read the correct ohms for anything. Well unbelievable! This one actually works.
I bought some coils at Central Vapers and they had a cheap Coil Master Ohm Meter for a buck. I figured I am going to hate myself later for dropping one of these in my cart. As all of the other ones I have purchased couldn't read the correct ohms for anything. Well unbelievable! This one actually works.
The heater blower on the 06 Malibu LS (spare car) finally stopped working last night. Speed 1 & 2 on the control have not worked for quite a while and 3 started making a growl noise and a sharp rap on the dash made that go away. 4 always worked perfectly since it is a direct 12V connection through a relay and not the resistor board.
I dropped the clipped on cover this morning before coming into work only to find it a little wet inside the motor cutout with a blackish grease/water mixture. Marvelous, there is a minor leak somewhere in the duct work, the floor mats are not wet so it's a depending on how the wind blows leak which will be too much effort to find.
Gave the motor housing a whack with the snow brush and it spun to life. I'm going to cut the motor free and see if it is riveted or screwed together. Hoping a quick greasing and a little wet/dry paper around the commutator will put it back to rights, not interested in spending over $100 for a white box replacement.
@SlickWilly any thoughts?
4 always worked perfectly since it is a direct 12V connection through a relay and not the resistor board.I dropped the clipped on cover this morning before coming into work only to find it a little wet inside the motor cutout with a blackish grease/water mixture. Marvelous, there is a minor leak somewhere in the duct work, the floor mats are not wet so it's a depending on how the wind blows leak which will be too much effort to find.
Gave the motor housing a whack with the snow brush and it spun to life. I'm going to cut the motor free and see if it is riveted or screwed together. Hoping a quick greasing and a little wet/dry paper around the commutator will put it back to rights, not interested in spending over $100 for a white box replacement.
@SlickWilly any thoughts?
The A-Tank order is lingering in Mr & Mrs sauga and the 3F EUC coil order has finally hit Richmond.
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Well it's good & bad news on my tracking front, My sxk boxer clone finally updated, after 6 days
2019/01/27 11:12 MISSISSAUGA,ON Item was released by Customs and is now with Canada Post for processing
But the screw up on my local post office front will not be known till tomorrow
2019/01/25 / 08:20 Item re-routed due to processing error; Possible delay
I'm hoping out for delivery tomorrow? or maybe lost for who knows how long
The heater blower on the 06 Malibu LS (spare car) finally stopped working last night. Speed 1 & 2 on the control have not worked for quite a while and 3 started making a growl noise and a sharp rap on the dash made that go away.
I dropped the clipped on cover this morning before coming into work only to find it a little wet inside the motor cutout with a blackish grease/water mixture. Marvelous, there is a minor leak somewhere in the duct work, the floor mats are not wet so it's a depending on how the wind blows leak which will be too much effort to find.
Gave the motor housing a whack with the snow brush and it spun to life. I'm going to cut the motor free and see if it is riveted or screwed together. Hoping a quick greasing and a little wet/dry paper around the commutator will put it back to rights, not interested in spending over $100 for a white box replacement.
@SlickWilly any thoughts?
Water in the blower housing:
Check your hvac drain. Usually located on the bottom of the evap coil housing. Also check for debris in those vents under the hood at the bottom of the windshield.
Thanks I will do that! We do have pine trees in the parking lot and they make quite a mess. The drain is supposedly behind the heat shield so it will have to be a hoist thing next time it goes into the shop. I'm too old to lay under a car in a paring lot these days.
Lock-Unlock ohms on C chips. With a normal DNA you 5 clicks to lock, hold fire & down
With the C up till now, I used E-Scribe, cause to the best of my knowledge there was no other way Well @dwcraig1 posted a theme from his spade, it has the ohms lock function I was able to copy it & paste it into all my other themes, now I can lock unlock ohms from the menu
If there is indeed another way I was missing? Please let me know.
With the C up till now, I used E-Scribe, cause to the best of my knowledge there was no other way
Well @dwcraig1 posted a theme from his spade, it has the ohms lock function I was able to copy it & paste it into all my other themes, now I can lock unlock ohms from the menu If there is indeed another way I was missing? Please let me know.
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