Evolv-ing Thread

dwcraig1

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awsum140

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I was thinking about trying a contact coil to see what happens, TD. I've always made spaced coils, never contact, and that may be the ticket. Next time I rebuild I'll give it a go.

I don't think there are any significant air pockets in the wicks. I'm pretty careful, OCD, about getting the wick nicely compressed prior to putting it in the coil.
 

TrollDragon

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I was thinking about trying a contact coil to see what happens, TD. I've always made spaced coils, never contact, and that may be the ticket. Next time I rebuild I'll give it a go.

I don't think there are any significant air pockets in the wicks. I'm pretty careful, OCD, about getting the wick nicely compressed prior to putting it in the coil.
They are all I've used for a long time. You are going to be working out hot spots with a contact coil but a quick strum down the coil with a screwdriver usually gets rid of them quickly.
 

Steamer861

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I mostly use spaced coils :) For me Spiting & Popping is all ways a too loose wicking issue. I use Ko-Gen-Do & most of use's use Rayon, So cant say why it happens to use's :(

I use a few Ni 80 Contact coils & don't notice much difference in spaced Versus Contact :)
 

mikepetro

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I am not sure how you are going to get rid of hot spots with Titanium Claptons. Got a FLIR camera around Mike?
In fact yes. Hot spots in spaced coils are no problem with TI claptons, never tried contact coils.
 

mikepetro

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Another reason I heard was there may be an air pocket inside the wicking. A full rope of Sally's rayon is a lot of space that could hide one.
I "think" I have narrowed it down.

In my case I am positive the wick is full and well compressed. I have a full rope of Sally's stuffed inside a 3mm coil, it is very snug.

A trick I got from @awsum140 is I split a full rayon rope in half and then thread each half from opposing sides until the full thickness of the rope is filling the coil. It minimizes deforming the coil, otherwise a full rope put in from just 1 side destroys the coil symmetry. Then I trim off the orange lines, flush with the coil, and fold the longer top half to dip down into the juice wells. This way I have thinner legs in the well, which rayon likes, over-stuffing the well doesnt work well with rayon.


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I suspect that I just made a very efficient wick this time and it is saturating itself too much. I get bubbles after every single hit (which I perceive as a sign of good wicking). When I cut the juice flow back the spitting and popping reduced, when I opened the juice flow it increased. I suspect that a lot of cold juice is contacting a hot coil and causing thermal shock. Anyway, I cut the juice flow off, on a mini Merlin there is still plenty enough juice seeping through for a good hit and it is down to mild gurgle instead of popping.
 

BillW50

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Pop and sizzle are the result of the relatively cool liquid hitting the hot coil.

Then my FreeMax Mesh Pro using the triple mesh coil with its six 6x3mm juice ports should be popping like crazy. The wicking is so fast that it can wick 1ml worth of 80% VG juice every 20 seconds. I measured this by taking a dry coil and dumping 4ml worth of juice into the tank. Then looking through the top, you can see everything. And in 20 seconds the wicking is totally saturated. Then measure how much juice left in the tank (only 3ml was left).

Also when dripping, I can't ever recall a time when I dripped cold liquid on a hot coil that it ever caused any popping. AFAIK, popping only occurs when a cavity builds up pressure and then suddenly releasing. You know, like popcorn. And shaking a can of pop does it too. Enough pressure builds up and it will pop with a sizzling noise being released through a very small opening.

If you ever find out why some builds do that, while other don't, let me know. Some seem to do it more than others and some don't do it at all, no matter how tightly I wick the coils. What really puzzles me is that I use the same coil in all my mods and get different results from build to build.

Well I can imagine sliding two wicks in opposite directions through a coil could cause a scoop mark along the surface between the two. Thus causing a cavity to form between them. And that could explain why some builds do it and some doesn't. As how would you know until you fire it up? As it either pops or it doesn't.
 
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stylemessiah

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You can't really compare blister pack chimney coils to regular center wicked coils.

Chimney coils give a me a flashback to the 2 times i built vertical chimney coils in my Lemo 2 about half a century ago...worth all the hassle?...no...also the most coil porny i ever got.

Like this, only i am not an euro youth



Bonus because he actually says toot suite...
 
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dwcraig1

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Hmmm just wondering out loud if you wet the wick after building?, and to place the wick tails? I know with my Lemo 2 specifically (and i suspect maybe somewhat a universality of it, especially if youre not vaping at a millionty watts), but if i saturate the wick during buillding


Chimney coils give a me a flashback to the 2 times i built vertical chimney coils in my Lemo 2 about half a century ago...worth all the hassle?...no...also the most coil porny i ever got.

Like this, only i am not an euro youth



Bonus because he actually says toot suite...

Welcome back
 

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