VG-PG Specials: Essential Depot
2 gals VG + free shipping = $39.17 and
1+1 gals of PG & VG + free shipping = $43.62
total 4 gals Total = $82.79
I ordered a 4 cube 3VG + 1PG and used the coupon,,, SHIP20,,,, and total was $62.40 to Vegas.
4 cube 3VG + 1PG = $39.00 + coupon SHIP20 + shipping = $23.40 === Total $62.40
2 gals VG + free shipping = $39.17 and
1+1 gals of PG & VG + free shipping = $43.62
total 4 gals Total = $82.79
I ordered a 4 cube 3VG + 1PG and used the coupon,,, SHIP20,,,, and total was $62.40 to Vegas.
4 cube 3VG + 1PG = $39.00 + coupon SHIP20 + shipping = $23.40 === Total $62.40
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Wow, that's a good deal! Good stuff, I've been using their VG for a year now. Wish I could afford the big drums, they are 50% off! Might end up being a good investment!
VG-PG BULK - Drums - UPS LTL SHIPPING: Essential DepotETA: I just ordered the same cube, 3 VG & 1 PG, same price $62.40 shipped to NY. Can't pass that deal up! I'm set for at least ten years with nic and juice, feels so good!
If I'm still here in eight years I'll have plenty of time to figure something out. 
vape on! FUFDA!
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Well I've been fighting with this black DX200, the one I assumed had a bad battery. I have now come to suspect its the DNA200 board or at least the "mod" section of the device. I ran it a day or so with no issues, then suddenly and without warning the battery showed 0% and escribe showed the cells of varying voltages. I quick battery swap and back with another battery and it would "fix" itself. Then yesterday and today I am realizing I am getting the empty battery 0% charge and wrong voltages across 2 (or all) cells regardless of which battery I plug into this board section.
So I either have a bad solder joint, bad connection on the DNA200 board JST connector or in the battery compartment or both.
I don't want to send the board back to ecig since I'm sure their only course of action would be refund. But I'm not certain I have only started suspecting the board tonight.
I'm not sure if I should open it and "see" whats going on or what...?
So I either have a bad solder joint, bad connection on the DNA200 board JST connector or in the battery compartment or both.
I don't want to send the board back to ecig since I'm sure their only course of action would be refund. But I'm not certain I have only started suspecting the board tonight.
I'm not sure if I should open it and "see" whats going on or what...?
Take a really good look ast the JST pins and try to determine if they are where they should be to contact the pins of the opposite connector.
MVS has the HCigar VT75 Nano in stock now.
Red:
HCigar VT75 Nano Evolv DNA 75
Black:
HCigar VT75 Nano Evolv DNA 75
6% off code: riyan
Just ordered a red one.
Red:
HCigar VT75 Nano Evolv DNA 75
Black:
HCigar VT75 Nano Evolv DNA 75
6% off code: riyan
Just ordered a red one.
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They look like they do, but admittedly the black front doesn't seem to accept the battery part as smoothly as the white one does. (I've only left 2 of the 5 out currently to prevent them from getting all mixed up)
I was thoroughly convinced it was the battery, but the black battery seems to work on either white or black "mod". The black front (with the board) seems to struggle at different times with either white or black battery.
I'm leaning towards it being the dna200 front mod section. And because it seems to work fine "when it works" I can't help but think it's a bad connection somewhere. I'm kind of lost as to what to check?
That top lip has a serial number painted on. So that is how you can tell them apart besides the color. The batteries I numbered them with masking tape.
I think you have a jst connection problem but I want to give you some info on your other concerns also. I've got three of these and three spare battery packs, I have taken each one apart.
How hard the pack goes on or off could vary from mod to mod or pack to pack because of the designs of the two battery posts and the plugs. When I had a couple packs apart with the battery and connector out I could push one connector on at a time, I discovered a few things.
One is the posts on the mods are cut with four sections, if a pack is tilted when push on it can compress the four sections making the post a loose fit. Look at the posts each time you put a pack on and make sure the posts haven't been bent and the gaps to small, if they are use a razor knife of similar tool to gently open them.
The + & - plugs on the pack, I found burrs on the edge of the hole where the mod post enters, I used a larger drill bit, spun it by hand to just remove the burr and give it a tapper opening.
Doing these things, I still have one mod that battery packs just go on harder because the machining of the posts are rougher then the others, makes it feel gritty when pressed together. I'm sure over time it will wear in and become smoother, I'm not going to mess with it and make things looser!
I noticed each mod I've taken apart has had changes, they have obviously made improvements as they go. One of them, when I removed the board I noticed the jst pins were soldered on sticking farther out then the others. Under the plastic jst connector they had put two small plastic shims to push it farther to the back of the mod. I think what you might have is one with the jst pins solder shorter on the board making the connection iffy and sometimes it works, maybe with certain battery packs? Whether yours has short jst pins or not, the symptoms your having all point to bad connections at the jst.
Unless you have the tools and are comfortable taking it apart to fix it, which will void any warranty, your best bet is to ask for a replacement. Ecig may be holding a few back just for warranty exchanges, I'd jump on it ASAP, worse they can do is say "so sorry". Hope you get it straighten out so you can enjoy it! Let us know how it goes.
I'm cross posting this to make sure BRD sees it, this is on TGTII
I just now replaced the spring on the 510 screw with a short piece of the sleeve from the deck's negative post. I had bought a Taifun service kit quite some time ago and used the screws and sleeves on my friend's TGT clone but kept all the old pieces of the clone. Resistance dropped way down to what it should be.
I just now replaced the spring on the 510 screw with a short piece of the sleeve from the deck's negative post. I had bought a Taifun service kit quite some time ago and used the screws and sleeves on my friend's TGT clone but kept all the old pieces of the clone. Resistance dropped way down to what it should be.
That is weird Willy... Mine are all alike. No problems with the JST connections or anything. Here are the serial numbers.
The only other thing I had happen once was during a battery swap was I got a check battery error. The bottom was just not pushed in all of the way (the JST was not making a solid connection) and that solved that problem.
- Hotcig DX200_1 #5082 (red)
- Hotcig DX200_2 #3908 (black)
- Hotcig DX200_3 #4003 (black)
- Hotcig DX200_4 #4129 (white)
The only other thing I had happen once was during a battery swap was I got a check battery error. The bottom was just not pushed in all of the way (the JST was not making a solid connection) and that solved that problem.
When my friend dropped his Vtbox200 and got the 510 crooked I placed a socket on top and tapped it back in straight. I was really concerned with one of those inducers or what ever they're called popping off.
What are those big square things called anyway?
What are those big square things called anyway?
Inductors, they are coils with ferrite core all wrapped up in a nice box to minimise interference with the rest or the electronics.
I'm sure they soldered those jst pins out and put spacers under the plastic connector body for some reason, can't think of any other then giving a better connection with the battery jst. First thing I noticed was on the face of the board, the solder points for the jst pins were flush, that's when I flipped it over and saw the spacers below the plastic connector body. I'll take some pics and post them showing the jst's from two boards from these hotcigs.
Something else I discovered, the two battery posts on the mod half are just pressed into the plastic cover plate and they are not all that tight. That's why they have a piece of high density foam stuffed under them, between the back side of the pins and the board. Even if they did push in when putting a battery on, they would stop when they bottom out and they are long enough to still make a good connection. But the jst, I think may be a little less forgiving.
Here you can see how far down the jst sits in this one, this one does not have the shims or then pins soldered out (see 2nd & 3rd pic below). You can see the indents in the foam from the backside of the two battery posts.
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This is the board I pulled from one that I put a 75 in. Here are the two shims and you can see how far out the pins are compared to the other DX board I posted above.
PhoneGuy, pull the battery packs off both mods, set the mods side by side and see if both jst connectors are the same depth.
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