I saw one, supposedly, carved out of a meteorite with a price of $5000.00 if I remember correctly...and it came in a really nice "presentation" box custom made of wood.
Whats the most expensive mod you have ever seen for sale?
I remember thinking 550.00 for an Authentic Zero was just insane!
Then I saw this, just nuts how much some one will pay for a mod!
The Duke Stabilized Wood by Vicious Ant
The Duke Stabilized Wood is the hybrid stab wood version of The Duke SX, and is the first stabilized wood mod by Vicious Ant.
A matching drip tip made from the same block of stabilized wood is included (located inside the battery compartment for transport.)
Housed in a sleeve of hybrid stabilized wood with a gun metal coloured T7 Aluminum frame, the 2nd generation Yihi SX350J mini processor powers the Duke SX with up to 75 Watts of continuous RMS output, temperature control options, user configurable power ramp up curves, and more, through a single high discharge 18650 IMR cell.
A top firing button made from the same block of stabilized wood that the sleeve was made from, provides a unique yet comfortable grip design with a matched colour pattern.
Additional accents are made from the same block of stabilized wood for a matched scheme:
Specifications:
- Fire button
- Up/down adjustment buttons
- Battery cap
- Power: Single 18650 battery.
- SX350J V2 Mini Processor
- Variable Wattage up to 75 Watts.
- Resistance: 0.05 Ohms to 3.0 Ohms.
- Five Power Modes: Power+, Powerful, Standard, Economy, Soft.
- Five memory modes to store 5 different wattage settings.
- Temperature control with Ni-200 and SS316 wire support.
- Temperature Range: 200°F - 580°F / 100°C - 300°C.
- Manual TCR Configuration.
- Adjustments made via the up/down buttons, or via built-in gravity sensor system.
- Auto orientation rotation display.
- Customized Vicious Ant logo and graphical user interface.
- Reverse polarity protection.
- Output short circuit protection.
- Low resistance protection.
- Low battery voltage protection.
- Internal overheat protection.
- 0.91 OLED screen.
- Dimensions: 48mm x 28mm x 82/92mm.
- Weight: 108 grams.
- Self adjusting positive pin.
- Large stabilized wood buttons.
- T7 Aluminum Frame.
- Carved out of hybrid stabilized wood.
- Negative copper contacts.
- Unique serial number.
1,199.99 CND
Here's the link if you want to buy oneVicious Ant - "The Duke Stabilized Wood #565" Duke SX Stab Wood
I would think for that kind of price they could have used something other then philips head screws.
Wow... I can't believe I missed that. Saying I feel dumb is an understatement.
All I can say is sorry. (and duh)
Edit: I edited my original post. I'd suggest editing those who quoted my stupidity.
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...... And ordered! (j/k)Whats the most expensive mod you have ever seen for sale?
I remember thinking 550.00 for an Authentic Zero was just insane!
Then I saw this, just nuts how much some one will pay for a Mod!
The Duke Stabilized Wood by Vicious Ant
The Duke Stabilized Wood is the hybrid stab wood version of The Duke SX, and is the first stabilized wood mod by Vicious Ant.
A matching drip tip made from the same block of stabilized wood is included (located inside the battery compartment for transport.)
Housed in a sleeve of hybrid stabilized wood with a gun metal coloured T7 Aluminum frame, the 2nd generation Yihi SX350J mini processor powers the Duke SX with up to 75 Watts of continuous RMS output, temperature control options, user configurable power ramp up curves, and more, through a single high discharge 18650 IMR cell.
A top firing button made from the same block of stabilized wood that the sleeve was made from, provides a unique yet comfortable grip design with a matched colour pattern.
Additional accents are made from the same block of stabilized wood for a matched scheme:
Specifications:
- Fire button
- Up/down adjustment buttons
- Battery cap
- Power: Single 18650 battery.
- SX350J V2 Mini Processor
- Variable Wattage up to 75 Watts.
- Resistance: 0.05 Ohms to 3.0 Ohms.
- Five Power Modes: Power+, Powerful, Standard, Economy, Soft.
- Five memory modes to store 5 different wattage settings.
- Temperature control with Ni-200 and SS316 wire support.
- Temperature Range: 200°F - 580°F / 100°C - 300°C.
- Manual TCR Configuration.
- Adjustments made via the up/down buttons, or via built-in gravity sensor system.
- Auto orientation rotation display.
- Customized Vicious Ant logo and graphical user interface.
- Reverse polarity protection.
- Output short circuit protection.
- Low resistance protection.
- Low battery voltage protection.
- Internal overheat protection.
- 0.91 OLED screen.
- Dimensions: 48mm x 28mm x 82/92mm.
- Weight: 108 grams.
- Self adjusting positive pin.
- Large stabilized wood buttons.
- T7 Aluminum Frame.
- Carved out of hybrid stabilized wood.
- Negative copper contacts.
- Unique serial number.
Here's the link if you want to buy one
On new old topic... So I have a black dx200 that was giving me issues, originally I thought it was the battery. Turned out to be the dx200 (dna200 board).
As @dwcraig1 suggested the issue was with the jst. I can't 100% for sure tell you whay the exact problem was but I can tell you how I fixed it.
I heated each of the jst pins and pushed them out a little. All while trying to force the connector over to the left. I couldn't get the jst off, but I didn't try real hard either, I felt like the connection being too far to the right and the fact that I didn't see the spacer @SlickWilly so clearly showed (mine did NOT have that spacer) it seemed like making those pins longer was the solution. I've been thru a couple battery cycles, removed and replaced the battery. So far always showing as being balanced. And works, it's been my daily mod for a couple of days / nights in with no issues....
Thanks! Carry on
As @dwcraig1 suggested the issue was with the jst. I can't 100% for sure tell you whay the exact problem was but I can tell you how I fixed it.
I heated each of the jst pins and pushed them out a little. All while trying to force the connector over to the left. I couldn't get the jst off, but I didn't try real hard either, I felt like the connection being too far to the right and the fact that I didn't see the spacer @SlickWilly so clearly showed (mine did NOT have that spacer) it seemed like making those pins longer was the solution. I've been thru a couple battery cycles, removed and replaced the battery. So far always showing as being balanced. And works, it's been my daily mod for a couple of days / nights in with no issues....
Thanks! Carry on
Does anyone know where you can buy removable small screens? The only ones I've ever seen are already soldered on and attached to the boards.
I'd suggest talking to Evolv. They do say due to limited supply of small screen whips to expect an 8 week lead time. EVOLV - Home
The older solder on small screens had a different pitch (8pin 1mm pitch?) on the ribbon connector. believe the new ones will have the 8 pin 0.5mm pitch of the current large screen
I think they are looking for the detachable small screen that is not soldered in place.
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Good to hear you got it fixed! I'm going to do the same with the other two dx's that have the shorter pins. One of them has just started acting up the last few days, each time I found a tiny gap at the bottom between the two halves, a squeeze and it's back to normal so I know the pins are just barely connecting.
The plastic body comes off hard but it will come off, once it's part way it moves easier. If you need to move it higher so it will engage and catch the slot of the back cover here's how I've remove them from a few boards. I use a razor knife with a dulled blade to get under one side, carefully pry to move it a little then over to the other side until the gap is big enough to get a small screw driver under it. Just keep working carefully from one side to the other and you'll get to a point where it will slide easier. Just have to be careful not to damage the board when prying against it. When I removed jst's from boards I first remove the plastic body then heat each pin and pull it out with tweezers. Then I use a solder sucker to remove the solder from the holes in the board, does a great job and they are cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D8ANTY?psc=1
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I was wondering if anyone could advice on how to store spare LIPO packs?
I just got a spare one for my VT200 in case the original craps out on me and I'm not sure what to do with. I got a cool dry place for it but do I need to charge it first, or even periodically, or can I just leave it in the packaging until I need it?
I just got a spare one for my VT200 in case the original craps out on me and I'm not sure what to do with. I got a cool dry place for it but do I need to charge it first, or even periodically, or can I just leave it in the packaging until I need it?
LiPO batteries, I believe, should be stored at not a full charge but at 50-75% or so. That's why they need a charge before first use. A cool, not cold, place is a good idea. Checking them and giving them a charge, not a full charge and only if needed, on a yearly basis is also a good idea.
I'm sure KTM will chime in here since he has tons of experience with LiPO packs.
I'm sure KTM will chime in here since he has tons of experience with LiPO packs.
I try to keep all my Li cells around 3.7 volts if I'm not going to be using them shortly....quite the opposite of my old ways where I kept them at full charge (or is that fool charge..LOL)
That's what I've read too, half charge for storage. Any lipo's I've got have been half charged. I'd check it to make sure before putting it away, would suck to pull it out in a couple years and find it won't take or hold a full charge.
Hmm.... This has got me thinking. Now that I'm finally at a point in my vaping that I've built up a good depth of mods, any with lipo's that are not my every day mods I'll rotate into use once a week, run them down then recharge full. Don't know if I'm doing the right thing? Would it be better off just leaving them half charged or is using them once a week and recharging full OK? The thought of having to charge a mod if I need to use it for a day doesn't appeal to me, but.......
That's was a conundrum for me, too, Willy. Now I have enough mods, LiPO pack and 18650, that if one "goes south" I can just use another while something else charges up or I replace a battery pack.
I used to think a big, multi-bay, charger for 18650s was a good thing. Now I think a two bay is more than enough. Again, enough stuff to rotate to while charging in an absolute worst case scenario.
I used to think a big, multi-bay, charger for 18650s was a good thing. Now I think a two bay is more than enough. Again, enough stuff to rotate to while charging in an absolute worst case scenario.
Same here, I got a four bay nitecore and it takes up space, a two bay would fit me better now. But... I may be using more 18650's in the future, depending on how I like the new 60's.
Guess I better change my ways, glad this topic came up! I was use to keeping all my 18650's full charged too, but I was rotating through them at a fast pace before Mike turned me onto lipo mods.
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