Evolv-ing Thread

[SlickWilly]

If I had a bench grinder I might try that, I'm cheap. The trick is to balance the pressure to the material. Hitting aggregate "head on" kind of slows things down. I learned, very early in my masonry drilling "career", that the bit needs to be pulled out of the hole regularly, depending on how fast it's actually drilling, to prevent the spoils from clogging things and overheating the whole shaft of the bit not to mention the tip.

It is funny how what appears to be a "simple" project turns into a "holy crap what did I get into" project in one easy step. To complicate things I had bought 3/4" liquid tight conduit to run up the trees where the cameras are located. Now, I've got to use reducers to match that to the 1/2" PVC. I had pre-cut and painted the liquid tight in anticipation of 3/4" PVC so no going down to 1/2".

I originally thought about drilling through the sill of the framing but that would have meant exposed conduit at the house end of things. Then I decided to go through the foundation. It's been a downhill journey from there.

"I originally thought about drilling through the sill of the framing but that would have meant exposed conduit at the house end of things."

That's what I did when I ran underground electric from the house out to the shop, I took one look at the cellar wall and said Nope. The conduit doesn't bother me.

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[Steamer861]

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[dwcraig1]

 

[sabre66]

Sometimes I wish I could teleport. I carry a Hilti with a 1.5" bit just for that reason.

 

[awsum140]

I wish you could teleport, too, even just the Hilti

 

[dwcraig1]

 

[tiburonfirst]

 

[mikepetro]

 

[Steamer861]

A question for some one electronically inclined?
If I wanted to make a solderless connector from a usb board to a DNA60, what would be the best thing to use?
My problem is, I have a few DNA60 mods with no permanent usb connector.
I would like to have a usb board with some kind of solderless connector to the board end so I could just slide it in to the 5 board holes & connect to E-Scribe with out having to solder it in.

 

[mikepetro]

A question for some one electronically inclined?
If I wanted to make a solderless connector from a usb board to a DNA60, what would be the best thing to use?
My problem is, I have a few DNA60 mods with no permanent usb connector.
I would like to have a usb board with some kind of solderless connector to the board end so I could just slide it in to the 5 board holes & connect to E-Scribe with out having to solder it in.

Get something like this and tin the circled area with solder to make it a snug fit.

 

[Steamer861]

Get something like this and tin the circled area with solder to make it a snug fit.


View attachment 702751

That would work I'm looking for some thing with a bit longer lead wire, so I can fit into different tight places. In my searching I have discovered Male to Male bread board leads.
I was hoping some one here would have experience with this kind of connector or some thing similar. Some thing with a nice friction fit.
Maybe steer me in the right direction to find the proper size for the DNA60?

Ideally I could solder in a header like your picture & connect any time I wanted with a plastic connector, But the screen lead is in the way

 

[SlickWilly]

Get something like this and tin the circled area with solder to make it a snug fit.


View attachment 702751

I've seen those before in long strips, break away strips so you can snip off how many you need, damn if I can remember what they call them now. Maybe in a pinch you could use a JST connector and cut away the upper section, if the pin spacing matches.

 

[Steamer861]

I've seen those before in long strips, break away strips so you can snip off how many you need, damn if I can remember what they call them now. Maybe in a pinch you could use a JST connector and cut away the upper section, if the pin spacing matches.

The pin spacing on the jst connector is diffrent & the pins are loose
There has to be some kind of small pin end with a friction fit, I could just solder on to the end of a lead wire from the usb board.
Maybe even the right size single strand copper wire?

 

[SlickWilly]

That would work I'm looking for some thing with a bit longer lead wire, so I can fit into different tight places. In my searching I have discovered Male to Male bread board leads.
I was hoping some one here would have experience with this kind of connector or some thing similar. Some thing with a nice friction fit.
Maybe steer me in the right direction to find the proper size for the DNA60?

Ideally I could solder in a header like your picture & connect any time I wanted with a plastic connector, But the screen lead is in the way

This is the problem I ran into when I put the 60 in the ZNA with no room for the charging board, my temporary work around was the jumpers I put on the board and the charger, I sent those to you with those charging boards. The wire I used was from an old IDE cable, not ideal because the wires are brittle and will break if worked, that's why I hot glued the soldered end at the board to keep it from moving and breaking the wires, worked long enough for me to get the USB port installed. Those tiny pins on the USB port I used were a challenge to solder up, not just tiny but very close together, smaller wire would have helped but I used what I had. 50 x PCB SMT Micro USB Type B 5Pin Female Socket Adapter Connector | eBay

I ended up putting the usb port in the ZNA and wired just the three needed to connect escribe without the charging board. You need to add a 10k resister inline, think it was Mike that gave me the link to the evolv forum thread on how to wire it ---> DNA 60

 

[Steamer861]

I may have found a solution I have some multi strand fine copper wire, I'm finding if I remove just one of the strands it make a nice tight friction fit
I will try it later today & see if I get good conductivity

BTW there is an E-Scribe for "Mac" Version now
I'm using it & it's great not to have to switch machines every time I want to connect

 

[mikepetro]

Applying the 10 year rule, if I havent even "thought" about it in 10 years, it goes. I am only about half way done.

 

[tiburonfirst]

yup! i really, really need to do the same

 

[awsum140]

Hey Mike, you available on Tuesdays? If I do that, this place will be empty. We've still got some boxes we haven't unpacked from when we moved in, eight years ago.

Got all the holes drilled and the three pieces of conduit through them. 1/2" PVC is just flexible enough to make it pretty easy. The leaves are packed in the trench. I'll have to use a rake to get them out. Tomorrow I may actually get most of the conduit installed. Once that's done, quick patch around them at the foundation and a few coats of rubberized paint with silicone caulk on the inside.

 

[classwife]

I saw this and thought it was amazing :