Hey all, I'm wondering if anyone here has deal with something like this... So after new furnace, the old thermometer (I thought) was wildly innacurate. I had to replace it anyway bc the gas/power companies (both) here offer a huge rebates for a new system if you put in a nest or ecobee @same time, but now I'm realizing that it wasn't the thermometer it's bc the furnace is literally right across the hall, which makes this hall like 10F hotter than anywhere else, example...
Behind the door with the 80''s trans am racing louvers is the utility/laundry closet. I thought of replacing that with a regular door while we were painting but then I thought maybe it's there to make use of the heat generated by the furnace, so I left it. Anyway that 10F disparity makes it really cold in the bedroom at night, I guess I could try one of the remote temp sensors for the bedroom but then wouldn't that make it 10F hotter in my living room? Or should I try a different door? idk
edit, also, is 30% or so, considering a lot of humidity?
Behind the door with the 80''s trans am racing louvers is the utility/laundry closet. I thought of replacing that with a regular door while we were painting but then I thought maybe it's there to make use of the heat generated by the furnace, so I left it. Anyway that 10F disparity makes it really cold in the bedroom at night, I guess I could try one of the remote temp sensors for the bedroom but then wouldn't that make it 10F hotter in my living room? Or should I try a different door? idk
edit, also, is 30% or so, considering a lot of humidity?
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How about moving the thermostat to the other side of that wall, where it isn't directly impacted by the heat wafting out of the utility closet? You'd have to patch the hole on this side, but at least you wouldn't have to fish wires to a new location.
Yeah I thought about it too but unfortunately the other side of the wall has a fridge on it [emoji53]
Would a different door, without the racing louvers do anything?
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The louvered door isn't there for looks, it's there to limit heat buildup in the utility closet. That area has to be vented or your whole condo will get really hot, until the fire department shows up anyway. I'd look for a wireless thermostat and get it out of that hallway. It should have never been located there unless all return air, ASSuming a forced air system, to the furnace goes through that louvered door which, from your description, it doesn't. The other dodge is an electric blanket but that doesn't cure the problem of getting out of a warm bed into a cold room.
Yeah, it's a strange place to put a thermometer but literally all the condo floor plans here, 1x/2x/3x bedroom ones have it located right outside utility closet. What about if I could turn off the sensor inside the main thermometer, & use a couple of these in different rooms?
I'm posting on Google home reddit to see if that it possible.
I don't know anything about Nest systems other than they seem to be the current "fashion", incidentally if you ever fool with video surveillance don't use Nest, total garbage and way over priced. If there is a "central" control unit, just hook that up in place of the existing thermostat right at the furnace. Then you could take down that useless thing on the wall and patch the hole. You really don't need more than one remote thermostat unless your heating system is zoned. The trick will be finding a spot where the whole house is at about the same temperature, subjectively, at least.
I got mine free after a giant rebate offered by the gas/electric companies when I put in my new furnace/condenser, (they want you to use a nest/ecobee smart thermostat & new high efficiency furnace & a/c) without that rebate I wouldn't of been able to afford all that stuff at the same time & both def. needed to get replaced, but knowing what I know now I probably would have gotten one anyway... it's saved a bunch of money on our monthly bc it knows when to turn down/up the temp when you come/go, & (I think) turns off the burner or a/c a few mins before reaching the target temp while letting the fan still circulate, but no I def. don't use the nest system for my webcams bc they charge you $10 a month to use it, I have my own system, I mean I don't pay a company a monthly fee but my home is secured with webcams/motion detectors & all that but it probably works better than one from a paid company bc it's designed by me
it's all automated by ifttt commands so I never have to turn anything on or off, & I immediately know if someone's in my house that I don't want there. I had to put some outside camera's though & unfortunately the neighbor caught me. idk yet if he's gonna make me take the corner one down. what central unit do you mean? as far as thermostats you mean? it's the only one.
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Btw off topic but I've been wondering this, are gas oven/burners actually better than the electric counterparts in some way or is it just all in my head. It seems like they're doing the same thing but when I used to have electric my food comes out either burnt or not quite finished, & with the gas my food comes out cooked that perfectly amount of cooked that I want.
Sounds like you need to stir the air in that hall, at least while you're in bed. You can get a small fan to do that, probably wouldn't take much.Hey all, I'm wondering if anyone here has deal with something like this... So after new furnace, the old thermometer (I thought) was wildly innacurate. I had to replace it anyway bc the gas/power companies (both) here offer a huge rebates for a new system if you put in a nest or ecobee @same time, but now I'm realizing that it wasn't the thermometer it's bc the furnace is literally right across the hall, which makes this hall like 10F hotter than anywhere else, example...
Behind the door with the 80''s trans am racing louvers is the utility/laundry closet. I thought of replacing that with a regular door while we were painting but then I thought maybe it's there to make use of the heat generated by the furnace, so I left it. Anyway that 10F disparity makes it really cold in the bedroom at night, I guess I could try one of the remote temp sensors for the bedroom but then wouldn't that make it 10F hotter in my living room? Or should I try a different door? idk
edit, also, is 30% or so, considering a lot of humidity?
Or you can get one of those programmable thermostats like you've mentioned and set the program to increase the temperature to a more comfortable level at bedtime, then back down about an hour before you get up. Yes, while you're sleeping, the living room/hallway will be warmer, but you're not in there.
I was actually wondering this, is there any kind of ceiling mounted fan that would work for a hallway? & yeah that's what I'm thinking the weather has been pretty warm until now but the last couple of nights it's gotten really cold inside that room.
Only time I lived with a ducked heat, a furnace was when I was a kid living at home, since being on my own I've had electric base board heat with a thermostat in each room. I thought you controlled the temperature differential of the rooms by adjusting the flow of all the vents? If a room (or rooms) are warmer then another you shut down the vent a little in that room(s) and/or open the colder room more? But first it might be worth pulling the vents and looking inside all the duct runs with a mirror and flashlight, people have been known to hide stuff in those runs. Might be something in there slowing flow to the bedroom, might find some smut magazines hidden from mom and dad or grandma's pile of money, who knows.
Yeah I wouldn't shut the air flow off to that closet with the furnace, I'm pretty sure those vents on the door are there for a reason. Unless, you add a big vent (with enough air flow) to that closet in another location, through one of the walls or through the floor but one way or another I'm sure you shouldn't close it off.
Seeing you recently had it replaced, I'd call the company that installed it, maybe they would come back and check things out for free? Then while they are there ask questions from the guys that know all the tips and tricks.
Yeah I wouldn't shut the air flow off to that closet with the furnace, I'm pretty sure those vents on the door are there for a reason. Unless, you add a big vent (with enough air flow) to that closet in another location, through one of the walls or through the floor but one way or another I'm sure you shouldn't close it off.
Seeing you recently had it replaced, I'd call the company that installed it, maybe they would come back and check things out for free? Then while they are there ask questions from the guys that know all the tips and tricks.
When I say "central" unit what I mean is the receiver end of things with the relay that actually controls the furnace. Even a Nest thermostat, probably, has a relay in it with contacts rated for a few amps, minimum, to handle the load of the furnace controls. The trick is to find a system built like that, remote receiver for remote thermostats. You could probably kludge something together, but I'd be careful being in a condo.
I've seen ceiling fans that that are not the typical paddle blade arrangement, instead they have sort of a loops of bent metal or wood, think like a bow tie, to move the air. They take up a lot less ceiling space, but you're still stuck getting romex into the middle of the ceiling to do that. Maybe a small, 10 inch, fan parked on the floor in an out of the way spot would work.
I've seen ceiling fans that that are not the typical paddle blade arrangement, instead they have sort of a loops of bent metal or wood, think like a bow tie, to move the air. They take up a lot less ceiling space, but you're still stuck getting romex into the middle of the ceiling to do that. Maybe a small, 10 inch, fan parked on the floor in an out of the way spot would work.
Yeah, my wife lives with this, from a somewhat rare thing called CIDP which is chronic GBS. Her Neurologist prescribed something that sounds like ambutriptaline to help her sleep. Similar to your Gam....pentin, she's on Lyrica
Different for sure. Gas is cheaper where I am so we use for Stove (instant heat), Oven (moist heat) and different to electricty, and our Dryer. Wifey prefers them.
Electric and gas both use heat for cooking, plain and simple (thank you Captain Obvious). Seriously, we've had both and gas is faster heat than electric unless you have newer style quartz elements. They both cook the same, once you learn the nuances of them. It was easier to convert from electric to gas cooking than vice versa and I think that's because of the much slower rise to cooking temperature. No real difference if you bake and preheat the oven, but stove top stuff takes some learning.
According to Google reddit I can just put a nest sensor in each room & manage it from the app, I won't need to turn off the main thermometer & I can just tell it which one I want to be default at what time of the day.
Gonna try it, pre-ordered 3.
The vents are clear I just checked, I did find an (I'm guessing) 18yr old sticker from the sheet metalers union. There's 1x vent in dining room, 1x on each side of the living room, that I can try shutting but idk if it'll help w/ the air getting all hot outside the door there. I can try it tonight though.
Those relays are inside the hvac unit at the fan, & there's one at the a/c outside, & one in furnace... i think there may of been something like that central but it would of had to come out. to put in the newer units. It's still a 5/6 wire system though, W, Y, G, R/Rc, C.
I am going to look into a tiny ceiling fan though it'll be weird having one in the hallway.
Gonna try it, pre-ordered 3.
The vents are clear I just checked, I did find an (I'm guessing) 18yr old sticker from the sheet metalers union. There's 1x vent in dining room, 1x on each side of the living room, that I can try shutting but idk if it'll help w/ the air getting all hot outside the door there. I can try it tonight though.
Those relays are inside the hvac unit at the fan, & there's one at the a/c outside, & one in furnace... i think there may of been something like that central but it would of had to come out. to put in the newer units. It's still a 5/6 wire system though, W, Y, G, R/Rc, C.
I am going to look into a tiny ceiling fan though it'll be weird having one in the hallway.
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kiba, I wouldn't shut those vents all the way, may end up with too much heat in the bedroom. My daughter has central air with vents in the ceiling, the bedroom didn't get enough cold air and she shut the living room vents off, she froze in the bedroom that night.... I told her to try just shutting the living room a little at a time and see how it goes, it took a few days of trial and error until they got a good balance but now it's even through out the house.
You could have your girlfriend slowly close the living room vents while the furnace is running and with you feeling the air flow off the vent in the bedroom, might help shorten the trial and error process.
You could have your girlfriend slowly close the living room vents while the furnace is running and with you feeling the air flow off the vent in the bedroom, might help shorten the trial and error process.
and since nobody has responded to that question yet - kiba, 30% humidity is too low. i'd aim for at least 40%
I think it depends on what a person is used to. I had a guy working for me for a while who moved east after a long time in the high desert of Nevada. He'd tell you 40% is miserable and swamp-like.and since nobody has responded to that question yet - kiba, 30% humidity is too low. i'd aim for at least 40%
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