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Evolv-ing Thread

SlickWilly

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Speaking of DIY'ing, when the 200 was released, we had a template in a PDF file passed around (thank you who ever made that :thumb:) we could print and use it to layout for drilling the mounting screws and cutting the openings for the screen, usb and button locations, anyone seen a template for the 75c or the 250c? I have a couple spare Hammond 1590G boxes I'm going to straighten the sides and use for a 75c and a 250c build, a template would speed up the process and narrow the chance of an oops....

I tried printing out the board dimensions in the user manual for the 250c and adjusting the size (%) but I can't get it on the money, I need to adjust with a .5% and it will only take a full digit, no fraction of a percentage. I'm killing a small tree and using up half a toner cartridge trying to get it on the money.
 

kiba

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Sweet thanks

Kiba, my profession is new construction and remodelling so we do a lot of painting, we never use those corner rollers (too old school). We use 4" rag rollers for corners and only dip the tip in the paint, about 2-!/2" of the tip. This puts ample paint in the corners and feathers out the paint thickness on the wall out about 3" from the corner, perfect for coming back with a standard 9" wall roller. Also, get yourself a Wooster Pelican paint bucket, best thing since sliced bread. The pelican has magnet to hold your brush, a built-in paint tray and lip to hold your 4"roller, a hand strap and replaceable plastic liners. My :2c:

ETA: if your walls are slick finished (no texture) use a 4" foam roller instead of the rag roller and cut off the round roller tip with scissors so it's flat on the end. First roll both sides of the wall corners, wall to ceiling transitions, wall to floor transitions and around window and door casings, then come back and roll the walls. We try to get within 1/4-3/8" of all those transitions so that cut in with the brush is faster.

TIP: 1 coat of paint is NEVER enough to cover regardless of which paint you choose.2 well controlled coats always look better.

TIP 2: Paint all window an door casings first. It's much easier to cut in a wall to a casing than the other way around.

Nice, thanks for the advice do you know if something like this would even work for edging?
4e8eec2a3ababa66336c136d76043af5.jpg

My gf saw it in a commercial or something & wants to get it... That Wooster is actually the paint bucket I have. Also, which round roller did you mean for cutting off the tip?

This started off touching up certain places now were going putting whole coats on in certain areas.


Reading the descriptions looks to be the same, just a different size, they offer many to cover about any size needed. It's a good price for a decent filter if it filters fine enough for your needs.

20x20x1, I think
So I'd have to cut it right?

What about this one, it looks to be the right size

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKXKFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hM5ZAb5PK35Z0

There's also this one with high ratings
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PU4BQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KR5ZAbMJH2AHJ
 
Last edited:

SlickWilly

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Sweet thanks



Nice, thanks for the advice do you know if something like this would even work for edging?
4e8eec2a3ababa66336c136d76043af5.jpg

My gf saw it in a commercial or something & wants to get it... That Wooster is actually the paint bucket I have. Also, which round roller did you mean for cutting off the tip?

This started off touching up certain places now were going putting whole coats on in certain areas.




20x20x1, I think
So I'd have to cut it right?

What about this one, it looks to be the right size

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKXKFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hM5ZAb5PK35Z0

There's also this one with high ratings
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PU4BQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KR5ZAbMJH2AHJ

I tried a couple different edgers like that in the past and both failed, get paint on the wrong part of it and you've got a mess. I either free hand my cutting or I use a paint edger, I have a couple of these, they are cheap and they work well. Don't try to paint a perfect edge, it will drive you nuts, get it the best you can and call it good. You'll see the bad parts but likely no one else will give it a second look, and who's going to see it in your shower anyways? Years ago when cutting in along the ceiling in the living room I kept going over and over it not happy, when friends came over they complemented on the job and ask how I got such a straight cut line, I was like really?!

Warner 15 in. Paint Guide-8504 - The Home Depot

Warner 10 in. Paint Guide-2736 - The Home Depot

On the filters, looks like that company makes some in fixed sizes and some that are adjustable, the last one you linked is a fixed size, the one I got was adjustable and yes, with that one I did have to cut the filter, it was easy though. This is one of the adjustable's https://www.amazon.com/WEB-Filter-Adjustable-14x20x1-20x25x1/dp/B001DOZD6I Just have to be careful and read all the descriptions on the page, there is a wide variety of them on Amazon, it's confusing, devil is in the details.
 

classwife

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I have found that any of those things with their own 'edgers' are a mess on the adjoining wall !
Paint always seems to seep over there from the gadget.
When I have to, I use a wallpaper edge thingy and wipe it each pass.
 

classwife

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First batch of Banaoffee made Tuesday.
Started with 50ml bottle.
1ml Italian Relax Cappuccino
1ml Banana
1ml Marshmallow
1ml Bavarian Cream

Vapeable from the start.
Has had 4 rounds of sitting in a cup of hot water - even better.
Not sure yet if I even want to adjust anything.

I start experiments on the light side to see what needs adjustment...and I don't like heavy flavor anyway.
I need some more 100ml bottles but sure don't want to buy a huge order of them.
 

SlickWilly

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Here's how I cut a line using a slant cut trim brush, couple things I don't do that this guy does, I don't wet or wash my brush before or in the middle of painting, never found that necessary with any paint's I've used. The key is to lay some paint down next to the edge, then come back, press the bristles onto the surface away from the edge so the fan out a little, then walk the bristles to the edge as you pull along, only need a small amount of the bristles to contact the edge, don't want more contact than that, it will only make it harder to cut the edge. Good shot showing how he walks the bristles to the edge at 3:30 mark.



BTW, see how he spins the brush to dry it, do that once done cleaning by spinning the handle back and forth between your palms then put it back in the wrapper it came with and let it dry so it will dry in the shape it was made. Get a decent brush, ($15-$20) keep it clean and store it right and it will last decades, no kidding.

The brushes come like tooth brushes, soft, medium and firm bristles, I'd go with a medium, differently not firm, you want the bristles pliable for cutting in an edge. This is one I've had for well over ten years, love it.
Shop Purdy XL Glide Polyester Nylon Blend Angle Sash Paint Brush (Common: 2.5-in; Actual: 2.5-in) at Lowes.com
 

Steamer861

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Speaking of DIY'ing, when the 200 was released, we had a template in a PDF file passed around (thank you who ever made that :thumb:) we could print and use it to layout for drilling the mounting screws and cutting the openings for the screen, usb and button locations, anyone seen a template for the 75c or the 250c? I have a couple spare Hammond 1590G boxes I'm going to straighten the sides and use for a 75c and a 250c build, a template would speed up the process and narrow the chance of an oops....

I tried printing out the board dimensions in the user manual for the 250c and adjusting the size (%) but I can't get it on the money, I need to adjust with a .5% and it will only take a full digit, no fraction of a percentage. I'm killing a small tree and using up half a toner cartridge trying to get it on the money.


Looks like the Alpinetec Ebay guy has what your looking for :)
NEW!! ATI Evolv DNA250C Board V2 Holder Drill Template included | eBay

Maybe an Email to Him would get you what your looking for?
 

cigatron

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This one right?
4a75c076471e0123f9635fbc2e8d04bf.jpg

Yep, that's the one. For painting trim/casing we distribute the paint with the roller then tip off with the brush. Its rocket fast and keeps a wet edge for the brush the whole time (very important).

The 4"" rag rollers get into wall corners and close to trim and casing easily but the 4" foam rollers don't because of the round profile on the tip. We snip off almost all of that round profile from foam roller tips. Use the rag rollers if your wall has texture (sprayed on texture or paint texture) and foam rollers if your walls are super smooth.
 

cigatron

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Here's how I cut a line using a slant cut trim brush, couple things I don't do that this guy does, I don't wet or wash my brush before or in the middle of painting, never found that necessary with any paint's I've used. The key is to lay some paint down next to the edge, then come back, press the bristles onto the surface away from the edge so the fan out a little, then walk the bristles to the edge as you pull along, only need a small amount of the bristles to contact the edge, don't want more contact than that, it will only make it harder to cut the edge. Good shot showing how he walks the bristles to the edge at 3:30 mark.



BTW, see how he spins the brush to dry it, do that once done cleaning by spinning the handle back and forth between your palms then put it back in the wrapper it came with and let it dry so it will dry in the shape it was made. Get a decent brush, ($15-$20) keep it clean and store it right and it will last decades, no kidding.

The brushes come like tooth brushes, soft, medium and firm bristles, I'd go with a medium, differently not firm, you want the bristles pliable for cutting in an edge. This is one I've had for well over ten years, love it.
Shop Purdy XL Glide Polyester Nylon Blend Angle Sash Paint Brush (Common: 2.5-in; Actual: 2.5-in) at Lowes.com


I'd go broke using his technique, it works, just takes too long. On that slick wall I'd roll it close with a snipped foam roller within 1/4" of the trim and cut it in later on that day after the walls are rolled. I use the same brush spreading technique as he does but I leave a double thick bead of paint at the cut in line so when I apply the second cut in coat I'm not cutting in to trim, I'm cutting in to that double thick bead (way faster). Using a roller to distribute the paint before the first cut in cuts paint time by about 30%, leaving the bead cuts the second cut in time by about 30%. If I'm in a super big hurry I use a 12" drywall knife as a guard for rolling close to trim and ceilings. If it's new construction or an empty house I spray everything.
 

mikepetro

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I'm a bit disappointed with the offerings for new 250c mods so far :(
Very limited selection, & not even one Lipo!
The Boxer looks good :) Dual 21700, but probably weeks maybe even months out still, & a bit spendy!
The Thinkvape is a triple 18650, The lost vape & the Rebel also dual 18650 offerings :(
I was hoping for some thing from Vapecige & Hcigar, their latest offerings have had their own proprietary Chips :(
Maybe it's still to early? You would think if they had a 250c planned they would want to get it out ASAP, before every one has bought one all ready?

It seemed like last year the DNA was every were! This year not so much :(
Am I missing any offerings? Any one know of a coming soon 250c mod?
Well here's hoping some new appealing to Me 250c is just around the corner?
upload_2018-4-12_18-34-42.png
 

mikepetro

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^^^^^^^

Made out of a clear and smoke colored acrylic. He has other colors and patterns of acrylic stock.

I dont have mine in my hand yet, so I cant speak to any niggles it might have, but he has been very responsive in addressing anything that I have pointed out to him.

He says he will make them to any size battery you want.

PM me if you want his email.
 

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