I like "Gran Torino" as well. My comment is that an M1 isn't the best for home defense though. A 12 gauge is a little more effective and you don't have to worry, as much, about hitting something further away.
Rollers can be washed and reused, and I do that since I'm cheap, but it can be time, and water, consuming. It's especially hard with longer nap rollers, but then they're more expensive. That little paint pump I used to have was a real bear. The rollers had about a half inch nap and held a ton and a half of paint, plus the whole inside of the roller was full of paint. Some of that could be saved with a little "technique" but man were they a PITA to clean.
Rollers can be washed and reused, and I do that since I'm cheap, but it can be time, and water, consuming. It's especially hard with longer nap rollers, but then they're more expensive. That little paint pump I used to have was a real bear. The rollers had about a half inch nap and held a ton and a half of paint, plus the whole inside of the roller was full of paint. Some of that could be saved with a little "technique" but man were they a PITA to clean.
@Steamer861 RE: LIPOs
I fly RC and a few of them are electric powered with Lipo batts so I had to do some pretty serious studying up on the Lipo batts to ensure longivity.
Yes, Lipos do have an optimum storage voltage, it's 3.85v per cell and that equates to approx 55% charge remaining. Many Lipo chargers even have a "Storage" mode that will either charge or discharge a Lipo to 3.85v for extended storage. If a Lipo is left fully charged, especially in a hot environment, the electrolite can migrate (settle) within a cell and cause it to overheat in other areas. This can cause what's referred to as "puffing". Puffing can also occur if a Lipo is overcharged (greater than 4.2v/cell) or if it's overdischarged (less than 3.1v/cell while under load)
So in a nut shell:
1. Never charge above 4.2v per cell
2. Never discharge below 3.1v per cell while under load
3. Store at 3.80-3.85v per cell.
4. If a Lipo shows any signs of puffing discard it. It's a fire hazard.
I fly RC and a few of them are electric powered with Lipo batts so I had to do some pretty serious studying up on the Lipo batts to ensure longivity.
Yes, Lipos do have an optimum storage voltage, it's 3.85v per cell and that equates to approx 55% charge remaining. Many Lipo chargers even have a "Storage" mode that will either charge or discharge a Lipo to 3.85v for extended storage. If a Lipo is left fully charged, especially in a hot environment, the electrolite can migrate (settle) within a cell and cause it to overheat in other areas. This can cause what's referred to as "puffing". Puffing can also occur if a Lipo is overcharged (greater than 4.2v/cell) or if it's overdischarged (less than 3.1v/cell while under load)
So in a nut shell:
1. Never charge above 4.2v per cell
2. Never discharge below 3.1v per cell while under load
3. Store at 3.80-3.85v per cell.
4. If a Lipo shows any signs of puffing discard it. It's a fire hazard.
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If any puffing? I thought some puffing was normal? All the lipo's I have in use for more then a few months have developed some puffing, they have been that way for well over a year. Have I just been lucky?
If I should replace all these lipo's I'll do it ASAP but I want to make sure it's really needed.One of the worst fears is having a fire, many years ago a fellow mechanic lost his three year old son in a fire, they couldn't reach the baby's room, both he and his wife were badly burned trying to save him, they had to break out and jump from a 2nd story window, he broke his ankle.
If any puffing? I thought some puffing was normal? All the lipo's I have in use for more then a few months have developed some puffing, they have been that way for well over a year. Have I just been lucky?
One of the worst fears is having a fire, many years ago a fellow mechanic lost his three year old son in a fire, they couldn't reach the baby's room, both he and his wife were badly burned trying to save him, they had to break out and jump from a 2nd story window, he broke his ankle.
Yes, puffing is a sign of an unhealthy batttery. Maybe you could google it to see what other folks do but we RC flyers discard them as soon as they show signs of puffing. One of my fellow RC'rs burned his garage down by ignoring our warnings. Over 30K in RC stuff and his 2016 truck went up in smoke. Apparently they can and will ignite when charging if they're puffed.
The biggest culprit that causes puffing is overdischarging, I set my cutoff alarm at 3.4v per cell under load and have hundreds of flights on each of my lipos with no signs of puffing. When not in use they are all brought to storage voltage (3.85v per cell). Also I never charge them unless I'm going to fly in the next day or two and they are stored in a vented ammo can in the garage fridge to slow down electrolyte migration.
Even though all the above is the best way to treat lipos some of those things are not possible with vaping mods. About the best you can do to stave off lipo battery puffing with a dna mod is to set the cutoff at 3.4v per cell (or higher) in escribe and use your mods battery capacity before recharging (don't keep it charged up all the time).
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Well all I use is DNA boards, I just check all my mods with lipo's, 2 are DNA 75's on lipo's and 8 DNA 200's, of the 8 200's 3 are HotCig DX's with removable battery packs, I have six battery packs total for the DX's. Checking all of them in escibe the cutoff was 3.05 on the DX's and 3.09 on the other mods, those were default setting I never changed, I changed them all to 3.4.
I know the majority of those lipo's have some degree of puffing, I'll have to pull them all apart and check them. I have some spare lipo's on hand I stashed for the DX's, the other's I'll have to order some more. I know all the hobby king turnigy's have puffed quickly, also the the fullmax's and hcigar's are puffed. Damn....
So how do I dispose of these? I want these out of my house.
Isn't going to leave me much to vape on for a couple of days.
So the default setting from Evolv is incorrect and hotcig dropped it even lower....
Yeah I know all about it, she's the reason I won't get married again... I have this one freind who's stuck paying 4k a month to his wife in alimony, on their old condo on the river in the city, while he's living in a dump. He's hiring PI's to try to catch her with a guy living there so he can get out of the alimony.
Btw Willie check out this monstrosity I had to build in order to slide the dryer back against the wall (not pictured magnetic adapter behind dryer)
It ain't pretty, at least they aren't sticking out past the door frame anymore though, these ones are much longer apparently. There's negative pressure in the thing it's going into but I decided to tape the whole thing up with thermal tape anyway.
Yeah you can add it to after the cycle, though I think you're right it'd only if the clothes are wrinkledlisten to willy, kiba!
i use it if i forget a load in the dryer which happens quite often [emoji14] strange though that you can add steam to most of the cycles.
i have 3 cycles that add steam automatically: refresh, rapid refresh and sanitize. but no option anywhere to add or leave out steam on those cycles or any others.
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They're just giving the public longer battery life between charges. To he11 with our safety, huh?. First thing I did when I puffed my first battery in my DX200 was change the cutoff. All my lipo mods are set for 3.45v per cell. I get a little less vape time between charges but I got used to it pretty quick. I use some turnigy lipos, they're ok, I like to fullymax batts better. Zippy makes great lipos, not sure if they have a size that would work for you.
To dispose of them they should be fully discharged. Buy a mating pigtail connector for your lipo (main lead connector-not balance connector) and solder a 12v tail lamp to the pigtail. Plug it in and leave it out in the back yard for 24hrs. Once fully discharged check the output with a meter to be sure. If it's truly dead twist the main leads together and throw it in the trash. There are no harmful chemicals or materials in lipos.
That's the way I do it, seems like the safest way. Some people drive a nail through them or throw them in salt water; I can't advocate either of those techniques.
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Yeah I know all about it, she's the reason I won't get married again... I have this one freind who's stuck paying 4k a month to his wife in alimony, on their old condo on the river in the city, while he's living in a dump. He's hiring PI's to try to catch her with a guy living there so he can get out of the alimony.
Btw Willie check out this monstrosity I had to build in order to slide the dryer back against the wall (not pictured magnetic adapter behind dryer)
It ain't pretty, at least they aren't sticking out past the door frame anymore though, these ones are much longer apparently
Yeah you can add it to after the cycle, though I think you're right it'd only if the clothes are wrinkled
Nothing wrong with that, I like it! Yeah the new machines seem to have a bigger footprint, the new dryer we have has a much bigger drum with means a much larger front door. Right across from the drier there is a sink, now when we open the door it hits the sink at about 3/4 open, the old one use to clear. We can open it far enough but it hits and is a little annoying. I hate to take the sink out, it's very old but it's handy to have down in the basement.
The guy who had this house before us sectioned off one part of the basement, added a walk in cooler with a big steel door and had a meat cutting business he ran out of the basement. There are stairs leading up and out to the back yard, right next to the driveway where they would bring the carcass in. When we looked at the place there were a couple of long stainless steel butchering tables, a meat band saw and meat grinder, I tried to get them to leave at least the stainless tables but couldn't get them to agree, they would have made nice work benches. The walk in cooler and sink being built in had to stay, the refrigerant cooler system still works, I did hang a couple deer in there years ago, how many people can say that? I also used it for a dark room back when I dabbled in photography, then digital camera's came along. The sink has nickle plated foot pedals under the sink on the floor to control the faucet, one pedal for hot and one for cold. I bet it's at least 60 years old but it still works perfectly and has never leaked, they use to build stuff to last.
Thanks, I didn't want to just throw them in the trash, I'll discharge them. Look's like I'll be on the work bench for a couple days.... Well better to know and be safe then sorry, I appreciate your posts!!
I've got some more of those hana beta mod kits HANA MODZ DNA 250 200 75 Do It Yourself ( DIY ) Mod kit Billet 11 colors | eBay and a bunch of the lipo's from that guy which are a perfect fit for the DX's. I think I'll just migrate the board's from my other mods into these, cheapest way out rather then buying new battery's for the other mods. I don't need a longer battery life, I just swap out a mod when one runs low, I have plenty. I'm not going to buy new battery's for the ERM+ and hammond box mods I built, I seldom use them anymore anyways, I'm liking these small beta size mods.
Hey Steamer, I found a movie for you.
The "hoosers"
How much could a fibreglass battery box cover cost? Just the cover, not the whole Box!
$540.00!!! It's a piece of fibreglass!
You know it's going to be Bad when they ask if your Sitting Down
I got a Budy rebuilding my old one! it's just Fibreglass!
The "hoosers"
How much could a fibreglass battery box cover cost? Just the cover, not the whole Box!
$540.00!!! It's a piece of fibreglass!
You know it's going to be Bad when they ask if your Sitting Down
I got a Budy rebuilding my old one! it's just Fibreglass!
I'll make you a new one from scratch for half the price, and I'd still be stealing you blind! Yeah, that's crazy.
Oh I know! Last year the passenger window electric motor went, $950.00! just parts, cost me $1,500.00! I told them If I would have known I would have welded the window Shut.
Jokingly! The truck has to pass an annual inspection, the window has to work!
Parts for Big Trucks Cost Big Bucks
At least I can repair this part, a lot of the time you have no choice but to get Screwed
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Oh I know! Last year the passenger window electric motor went, $950.00! just parts, cost me $1,500.00! I told them If I would have known I would have welded the window Shut.
Parts for Big Trucks Cost Big Bucks
Ahh... this is a big rig, yeah parts are ridiculous for big rigs. When I use to do auto damage appraisals for insurance companies I would sometimes be asked to write up big rigs. First one I did I called the dealer to double check prices, I was convinced the estimating software was wrong, well actually it was, the software prices were a little low, I was missing a monthly update. Funny, those prices never seemed to go down, just up LoL.
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