I like Pachysandra. It will grow pretty much anywhere (even directly under maple trees!) and will choke out just about anything else.Anyone with a green thumb? I've got a steep sloped section in the yard that's a bugger to mow with the push mower, always worried I'm going to loose footing and slip, can't afford to loose anymore body parts LoL. Was thinking, maybe there is something green, low growing (3-6 inches high) and hardy that I could plant there in place of the grass, something I wouldn't have to mess with or have to replant every year after winter, anyone have any suggestions?
ETA: Something I could plant with seeds, don't want to be digging and planting. Picky, ain't I?
That photo wasnt mine, it was just a random photo off the web. I probably just picked the wrong photo.your leaves are definitely lance-shaped
Vinca Major Vs. Vinca Minor - What's the Difference?
i have both varieties growing
OK, Minor or Major, I am no expert but the first photo is of flats of what I know is vinca minor that I bought at Lowes, this after growing for 20 years, hardly spread at all.
The second photo is of what the Nursery guy called vinca major that grows freely throughout the woods. Sun or shade. It went from clear cut to full coverage in a year, and is also a few inches taller.
The second photo is of what the Nursery guy called vinca major that grows freely throughout the woods. Sun or shade. It went from clear cut to full coverage in a year, and is also a few inches taller.
Creeping phlox. If your spot has full sun this is perfect.
That is 3 years growth from just 2 of the starter pods. Can be purchased in several colors.
That is 3 years growth from just 2 of the starter pods. Can be purchased in several colors.
I got around to my fake AW 18350's, wouldn't even fire using same settings (30 watts), must be 5 amp cells or less.
Edit: I put them in a smok Vmax clone with a 2 ohm coil @ 4.6 volts and they fired just fine.
Lotta good that will do........
Back in the day that was my settings.
Edit: I put them in a smok Vmax clone with a 2 ohm coil @ 4.6 volts and they fired just fine.
Lotta good that will do........
Back in the day that was my settings.
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I was also really worried about swelling since I had to use pine, so I over compensated a bit on the ends & I also use that extreme flex stuff for the caulks
So it's fine really, hard to notice unless you're specifically looking for it. That little section there was the hardest one though it took me longer than some of the rooms.
I just filled the underneath with caulks, I remember that one really stumped me for a while I just sat there & stared at it, couldn't figure out how to do that w/the way the crown molding is at an angle, it was my gf's idea to do that actually but I didn't have any idea what she was talking about at first. It sort of bugs me but still idk how I could have done it differently. It's the inside corner of this though...
So it's fine really, hard to notice unless you're specifically looking for it. That little section there was the hardest one though it took me longer than some of the rooms.
lol I was super tired for some of it bc it was a bit of a rush job while we were paying for two places, I realized later that I could of probably done that with one peice. I just couldn't see it at the time. Plus I was cutting it, holding it up, cutting it, holding up tetc etc trying to get it to fit & by myself.
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My first SS "check" came today, double edged sword, extra cash is good but means I'm getting up there.
I like, not for sell as yet.......Protovapor Silo 75C
Way back in the DNA20/30/40 days, Protovapor used to have the best switchgear found on any mod. You could choose between a silent or a clicky firing switch; both were rated for some absolutely absurd number of cycles. They also had an absolutely awesome up/down rocker switch.
Is there anything special about them now?
I like, not for sell as yet.......Protovapor Silo 75C
You can DIY your own
They sell the enclosure in Raw & Black.With a few parts from SW it can hold a 2x700 nicely
NO!
I was also really worried about swelling since I had to use pine, so I over compensated a bit on the ends & I also use that extreme flex stuff for the caulks
I just filled the underneath with caulks, I remember that one really stumped me for a while I just sat there & stared at it, couldn't figure out how to do that w/the way the crown molding is at an angle, it was my gf's idea to do that actually but I didn't have any idea what she was talking about at first. It sort of bugs me but still idk how I could have done it differently. It's the inside corner of this though...
So it's fine really, hard to notice unless you're specifically looking for it. That little section there was the hardest one though it took me longer than some of the rooms.
lol I was super tired for some of it bc it was a bit of a rush job while we were paying for two places, I realized later that I could of probably done that with one peice. I just couldn't see it at the time. Plus I was cutting it, holding it up, cutting it, holding up tetc etc trying to get it to fit & by myself.
Kiba, the only thing that went wrong for you there was skipping the wall corner. The left side of the crown piece over the door should have been an outside cut, then a short piece for the short wall with an outside corner on the right and an inside corner on the left. In other words the crown should always track each and every wall/cabinet plane. The real challenge on those short transition is cutting the inside and outside corners on such a short piece of crown. Essentially it's cut OFF from the end of a long stick of crown and sometimes gets caught in the saw blade as it's cut loose (ruining the piece). Do over. To attach it we drill a pilot hole through the piece so the finish nail doesn't spit it in half. See, easy peasy.
Kiba, the only thing that went wrong for you there was skipping the wall corner. The left side of the crown piece over the door should have been an outside cut, then a short piece for the short wall with an outside corner on the right and an inside corner on the left. In other words the crown should always track each and every wall/cabinet plane. The real challenge on those short transition is cutting the inside and outside corners on such a short piece of crown. Essentially it's cut OFF from the end of a long stick of crown and sometimes gets caught in the saw blade as it's cut loose (ruining the piece). Do over. To attach it we drill a pilot hole through the piece so the finish nail doesn't spit it in half. See, easy peasy.
I admire you guys who have that talent, not were my strengths lie, I struggle with wood working and things like that. Give me a transmission to rebuild and I'm in my groove, put a coping saw in my hand, not so much.
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