Evolv-ing Thread

SlickWilly

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01 BMW, I wonder if they still have a sight glass on that one? Some of the foreign cars I use to work on back in the day had a small glass lens on one of the lines or on the receiver drier, the drier looked about the size of a spray paint can, the lens was about 11-12 mm in diameter. If you saw numerous bubbles (freon gas bubbles) passing by the lens with the AC running it meant it was low on freon, made it easy to check and to fill to the correct amount.
 

dwcraig1

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It's actually called refrigerant now, I have a slow leak too & usually have to refill once a year. Really I need to do it soon bc it's freaking hot.
It always was, Freon is a trade name, think Kleenex tissues, folks mostly call all brands of tissue "Kleenex"
 

Rossum

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Yeah, I guess if you already have a scanner that will read more then codes and a car with a computer that monitors AC pressure's.
I only have detailed knowledge about one brand; every car they've made in the last 10 years or so has an HVAC module that monitors AC pressure. And yes, I do have a scan tool for 'em. :D
I'm old school, I have gauges and use a Fluke with wiring diagrams for checking inputs and outputs, that's the way I learned, old habits are hard to break.
That's actually a negative side-effect of all this computerization. Some people trying to fix cars get the idea that a scan tool should be the only tool they need to find the source of a malfunction. They're wrong, and I regularly have to disabuse people (especially the younger ones) of that notion. But it is a really good starting point on newer cars.
 

cigatron

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First, you only fill on the low pressure side, the cans of freon they sell with the connector and gauge attached will only fit on the low side so it's pretty much fool proof as far as connecting to the right port, like this one https://www.walmart.com/ip/A-C-Pro-Professional-Formula-Refrigerant-20-oz-California/36158903
4ba36271-fcfc-4d34-b03d-affe302ea99f_1.e614dde08cd98ad1b90437b373edd9a3.jpeg


It's not uncommon for some cars, more so with some brands like GM, for the system to leak a little over time and need to be topped off. Older GM cars (1998 and older for sure) may leak 12 ounces a year and that is between 1/4 to 1/3 of the total the system holds, that's enough to effect how well it preforms. Both my Jeep and the wife's Buick needs a 12 oz can every year to keep up to good cool air.

First thing I would suggest is start the engine, roll down the front windows and turn the AC on full cold, max blower fan speed and look to see if the compressor clutch is engaged and spinning, if it is then likely it's just low on freon. The clutch won't turn on if the pressure in the system is too low, if it engages then it has enough to work, just not enough to get good and cold. Understand that the clutch will cycle, engage and disengage as the system is running, that normal so you may have to watch it for a few minuets. As the AC runs pressure will climb on the high side of the system, when it gets high enough a high pressure switch will kick the clutch off to keep the pressure from rising too high, then as the pressure drops the clutch will kick back on. It would be easier to have a helper sit in the car and turn the AC on while you watch the compressor clutch, when first turned on the clutch should engage. Below is a video showing a AC clutch kicking on and off, the very front plate will start spinning when the clutch in engaged.

When you go to add some freon you have to watch the gauge on the can and make sure you don't over fill the system, you want to stay in the green or safe zone on the gauge. There will be instructions with the can-hose-gauge combo to follow and there are plenty of youtube videos showing how to do it. It's pretty simple and easy once you've done it a couple times and you can save a lot of money doing it yourself but you do want to make sure you understand the basics and don't overfill, you can always bleed off a little if need be, just don't let the Fed's know your releasing freon into the air LoL.

If your unsure, best to have it checked and serviced at a shop, if it needs more then 24 oz of freon then it needs to be checked for leaks and you've likely lost some oil from the system and that needs to be replaced along with the freon. There is special oil for the system, it needs a certain amount to keep the compressor lubricated otherwise the compressor will chew it's self up. There again, you can overfill the oil also so make sure your careful.

Last, remember, on a 100 deg day your not going to get 60 deg out of the vents, it can only cool down around 20 deg from what the outside temp is and at idle it won't get that cold, bring the RPM's up to check how cold it get's. To check top performance turn the AC on to blow only to the vents, put a meat thermometer in the vent and see how far it drops with the RPM's up and after a min or so, compare that to the outside temp.

Here's that video on checking the clutch.



If I may add, once you fill to the proper level and remove the bottle hose from the low side quick connection fitting put a little soap/water mixture in the low side fitting opening. If you see bubbles forming your low side valve is leaking. A little mechanic's tip for a leaky valve is to let the fitting warm up to outside temp and quickly depress and release the valve stem inside the fitting. Lots of times those shrauder valves won't seal when they're ice cold from filling with freon so by letting them warm up the rubber inside gets more plyable an will seal properly most times. Just a quick thump of valve to open it slightly and let it slam shut should work.

CAUTION: DO NOT have your face near the valve when you quickly depress and release it or you'll get sprayed with freon.
 

dwcraig1

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Might as well add this in too. A lot of compressors, if not all newer ones will protect themselves by not allowing the clutch to engage if the refrigerant it too low. A jumper is required to get it engaged to fill from this situation.
Heck, maybe it's just older ones by now....
 

dwcraig1

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Probably cheaper than a new car too! :laugh:
Not trading in the older car was a gamble that I made, either keep it for my son or buy another one for him (19 yr. old college student). The 08 isn't worth much but would probably cost a lot more to replace it with something better.
 

Rossum

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Not trading in the older car was a gamble that I made, either keep it for my son or buy another one for him (19 yr. old college student). The 08 isn't worth much but would probably cost a lot more to replace it with something better.
2008 isn't that old. My 20 year old college-student daughter drives a 2005, and my 25 year old son who graduated a few years ago drives a 2006. Both are hand-me-downs that we've had in the family since new.
 

kiba

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It always was, Freon is a trade name, think Kleenex tissues, folks mostly call all brands of tissue "Kleenex"
Yeah, I just meant that r12's been mostly phased out, given that (I think) it's a key ingredient in mustard gas... but even the oldest car I've owned didn't have it.
 

CMD-Ky

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I regularly go on a Toyota Tacoma forum and there are lots of complaints about the AC. If anyone mentions using a self-help Freon fill up, they are immediately jumped on with dire warnings of over filling and a lack of oil in the compressor. What are your thoughts on that?

I did it once years ago when R-12, I think it was, was still in use. The car had a site glass and it was evident the Freon was low. My Tacoma has no glass so that hose with a gauge would be very helpful.
 

TrollDragon

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I'm using these in the Mecs now :)
$4.00 Authentic Vapor Storm Ni80 Four-Core Fused Clapton Pre-Coiled Wires - 28*4/38 AWG / 0.32mm*4/0.1mm dia. / 0.19ohm / 10pcs/pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I never tried Nichrome before, don't know why?
These have a real good surface area & they heat up Fast!
Seems to me they are pretty good on the battery to :)
In my Squeezer, I can get 10mils out of a fully charged Ijoy 21700 battery :)
The bottle has become my battery gauge :)

I can't say enough about how much I like the Squeezer :)
Last week on GB they had the Red one on sale for $19.10, now I have a Red & a Black one :)

I'll keep an eye out for when they come back in stock on FT, 0.19 per coil sounds good to me on a single cell.

On the VLS I use a pair of vert 26/36 5 wrap 316L clappies on 3mm. 0.14 ohms cold and 0.17 ohms hot. Works good on mechs with afc wide open. I wasn't too sure about using rayon with the VLS in vert mode because you really can't thin the tails but it wicks fine and the flavor is up there with some of my top flavor attys.

I have a pair of 26ga fused Ni80 claptons that I put back in last night, vertical build 3mm. I moved the 20700 over from the Pulse BF since it doesn't see much use after the Furyan arrived. I didn't want to run the 0.16 build on the VTC5A, it probably would have been fine but I feel more comfortable with it on the 20700.

Thanks guys!
I really need to bring in a few Samsung 30T's, 2 for the PWM box and 1 for the Furyan.
 

cigatron

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I didn't want to run the 0.16 build on the VTC5A, it probably would have been fine but I feel more comfortable with it on the 20700.

Sure, I get that. If I had any 20xxx mods that's what I'd be running with .17 ohm or lower builds too. I do however run my "standard" dual coil .14 ohm 26g fused clapton builds on single vtc5a's every day and have never had problems, the batts don't even get warm until they're below 3.6 v.
 

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