I have dm balls in the VLS working like a charm. Trimmed almost flush with the top of the coils and through the deck base bottom. I like how the 510 comes off for easy wicking, hated pulling wick through a vertical build with tweezers. I cut the tails flush with the underside of the deck and then cut a deep V in the middle where the squonk hole would be.
There is a lot to AC systems and what procedures to follow for different repairs. The recommended procedures for any given vehicle really should be followed, there really isn't a "one fits all" rule when it comes to how much oil to add once some is lost. But... common sense can get you by for just "topping off" a slow "normal" leak so those guys are right about adding oil in SOME cases but not needed for a "top off".
A lot of AC compressors naturally loose freon and a tad of oil at the front shaft seal, (the seal on the shaft the pulley is attached too), it's a typical leak at that seal. Some manufactures put a felt washer around the seal to catch any oil seepage to keep it way from the belt and pulley and also likely so a customer doesn't see an oil leak and think it's a problem. If the front seal is the only leak and your only adding one 12 ounce can I wouldn't worry about adding any oil, the small amount lost at the front seal isn't enough to worry about.
The oil is dispersed and circulating all throughout the system when it runs, like coolant circulates for the engine. When we use to replace a part, like a condenser, compressor, evaporator and such, we would either follow the manual for adding the amount needed in that replacement part or if we couldn't get the manual we would drain and measure what was in the old one and add another one to two ounces.
Below is a copy from the factory service manual for my beater 98 Jeep;
REFRIGERANT OIL LEVEL
When an air conditioning system is assembled at the factory, all components except the compressor are refrigerant oil free. After the refrigerant system has been charged and operated, the refrigerant oil in the compressor is dispersed throughout the refrigerant system. The accumulator, evaporator, condenser, and compressor will each retain a significant amount of the needed refrigerant oil.
It is important to have the correct amount of oil in the refrigerant system. This ensures proper lubrication of the compressor. Too little oil will result in damage to the compressor. Too much oil will reduce the cooling capacity of the air conditioning system.
It will not be necessary to check the oil level in the compressor or to add oil, unless there has been an oil loss. An oil loss may occur due to a rupture or leak from a refrigerant line, a connector fitting, a component, or a component seal. If a leak occurs, add 30 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) of refrigerant oil to the refrigerant system after the repair has been made. Refrigerant oil loss will be evident at the leak point by the presence of a wet, shiny surface around the leak.
Refrigerant oil must be added when a accumulator, evaporator coil, or condenser are replaced. See the Refrigerant Oil Capacities chart. When a compressor is replaced, the refrigerant oil must be drained from the old compressor and measured. Drain all of the refrigerant oil from the new compressor, then fill the new compressor with the same amount of refrigerant oil that was drained out of the old compressor.
And here's the refrigerant oil section from a 2013 Ford Flex service manual:
Refrigerant Oil Adding
NOTE: During normal A/C operation, oil is circulated through the system with the refrigerant, and a small amount is retained in each component. If certain components of the system are removed, some of the PAG oil will go with the component. To maintain the original total oil charge, it is necessary to compensate for the oil lost by adding oil to the system with the new part.
1.Refer to the chart below for refrigerant oil adding amounts and methods of installation.
I was bummed when i saw they were out of stock
I ordered these, $3.43 Authentic Vapor Storm Ni80 Ladder Pre-Coiled Wires - 28*4 AWG / 0.32mm*4 dia. / 0.1mm*0.4mm flat size / 0.2ohm / 10pcs/pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I'm hoping there close to the same? Same manufacture all most the same size & ohms.
I'l let you know if there any good in a few weeks when they get here
I don't thin the Rayon coming out the bottom of the coils, I trim it off flush and then cut a V up into the bulk of it.
Excuse my poor napkin drawing skillz.
Could be old age or maybe just spoiled by TC 'cause I vape my TGT4 down to nothing more times than not lately. Not a drop of juice in there and throttled way down.
Hey all, quick question about power out puts,...
So my daily bang around mods are an out-dated dna 75 and 2-battery 250, (btw the 2 newer "C" ones that my gf has, there doesn't seem to be this issue), but anyway something happened to my 2nd pair of marriage batts which I left in the mod for about a month or so when I wasn't vaping & that pair is no longer usable, so, yeah basically I've been too lazy to get another pair but in the mean time I've been just using the dna 75 when the 2 batts are on the charger, the issue is, with mirrored escribe settings & on a single .44 @ 45W/420F coil it's severely weak compared to when I'm using the 250, which maintains a decent hit up until it's fully drained, the 75 won't even at full battery & I don't even bother once it gets lower than 60% or so....
What's up with that? I mean this is just a single coil deck 25mm Aromamizer which normally lives on the 250 until now, but is it just me I figured that's well within the range that a dna75 should be able to handle.
(in case it matters all my non-marriage batts are only a few months old Samsung 25's, all my marriage ones have also been the same: Sony vtc5a's all rewrapped & color-coded which makes it easier for me to tell what's what... my gf does use different batts which are Samsung 30's, tried one of those, but no luck there it actually seems worse)
Other question I've got plenty of single (non-marriage Samsung 25 batts) laying around that are pretty much not being used at all, which in my brain is part of the reason I haven't been in a hurry to throw 20 bucks at another marriage pair of Sony's (the ones I have are only used for a dry material vaporizer that uses singles but gets used only every once in a while) plus I've been spending every extra dollar on arlo cams & beefing up my home security systems since we had a close call while we were gone, (neighbors got broken onto & I got video of the same guy checking out our place twice but the lights came on both times when the camera detected motion & I guess skeert him away)... how bad is it if I just start using 2 of those as a pair? I could be wrong but from what I've been able to learn it only affects the battery's life without any real consequences to the device itself?
So my daily bang around mods are an out-dated dna 75 and 2-battery 250, (btw the 2 newer "C" ones that my gf has, there doesn't seem to be this issue), but anyway something happened to my 2nd pair of marriage batts which I left in the mod for about a month or so when I wasn't vaping & that pair is no longer usable, so, yeah basically I've been too lazy to get another pair but in the mean time I've been just using the dna 75 when the 2 batts are on the charger, the issue is, with mirrored escribe settings & on a single .44 @ 45W/420F coil it's severely weak compared to when I'm using the 250, which maintains a decent hit up until it's fully drained, the 75 won't even at full battery & I don't even bother once it gets lower than 60% or so....
What's up with that? I mean this is just a single coil deck 25mm Aromamizer which normally lives on the 250 until now, but is it just me I figured that's well within the range that a dna75 should be able to handle.
(in case it matters all my non-marriage batts are only a few months old Samsung 25's, all my marriage ones have also been the same: Sony vtc5a's all rewrapped & color-coded which makes it easier for me to tell what's what... my gf does use different batts which are Samsung 30's, tried one of those, but no luck there it actually seems worse)
Other question I've got plenty of single (non-marriage Samsung 25 batts) laying around that are pretty much not being used at all, which in my brain is part of the reason I haven't been in a hurry to throw 20 bucks at another marriage pair of Sony's (the ones I have are only used for a dry material vaporizer that uses singles but gets used only every once in a while) plus I've been spending every extra dollar on arlo cams & beefing up my home security systems since we had a close call while we were gone, (neighbors got broken onto & I got video of the same guy checking out our place twice but the lights came on both times when the camera detected motion & I guess skeert him away)... how bad is it if I just start using 2 of those as a pair? I could be wrong but from what I've been able to learn it only affects the battery's life without any real consequences to the device itself?
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I don't thin the Rayon coming out the bottom of the coils, I trim it off flush and then cut a V up into the bulk of it.
Excuse my poor napkin drawing skillz.
View attachment 754967
Got it, thanks. Are you running the afc through the 5 post holes or directly aiming at the coils? Just curious.
Re Married Batts: I just had to marry three used vtc5 batts for my triple 18650 200. I vaped a full bottle of juice (8.5ml) in my frankenskull squonker with each bat and checked the bat voltage on my charger (after a 30min rest). I found three that read 3.5v so I considered that a good enough match.
Re Arlo: I like the Arlo system.
Re dna75. Check your connections in the mod. If they're ok then maybe the voltage boost circuit went south.
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I did actually, pulled the whole thing apart & the solders look good to me... So theoretically I could do the same thing, check them & that should be good enough?
Arlo, yeah we have the pro 2's and I can't say enough good things. Saved our butts. You can have it set to record constantly when not running off the battery or like us use the motion detector to trigger the camera so you don't have a million hours of footage. The great thing about the pro 2's if you run it like that is that you get an extra 3 seconds of what happened before the sensor even triped, not sure how but it does it somehow, which is great bc on the pro 1 and q (we have one of the q's looking out the office window) sometimes if the person is fast enough, by the time it trips the camera, person is already gone.
The audio is so good too that I got legible audio through a window of 2 14 yr old kids basically admitting how they climbed up to one of the neighbors decks a week prior. They admitted everything, how they got up, how to unlock the front for their friends, all while they're standing there considering doing the same thing at the unit above mine, gave the neighbors a clip of that for the cops & next day I saw those very same kids riding away in the back of a cop car
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The steal cage makes it hard to see the juice level
The bottom site holes are so low, the tanks completely empty by the time you can tell the juice is low. You get no visual warning till it's empty
Juice consumption is pretty high witch don't help either, 2 or 3 puffs after the site glass shows no juice & it's dry hitting/ Throttling
BTW there are spare glass sections available on FT
$4.92 Replacement Glass Tank for SRG V4/Typhoon GT4 RTA Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
On an unrelated note, my second colour screen just gave it's 2 week notice
Yesterday it went white but the lettering still worked, today I got the scrambled screen fonts
I'l be lucky if I get 2 weeks before it dies completely
I did get a few spares last group buy, But I think I should have got a dozen!
My 2 Paranormals are pure carp. PURE. The TC is not as smooth as any of my Non C's (even a 75), and they each totally drop out of TC about 5% of the time with a Temp Protected error. I'll go along all perfect, boom Temp protected and stop the vape even with my finger on the fire button, then next one or 20 fine.On an unrelated note, my second colour screen just gave it's 2 week notice
I think James is stretched too thin.
So I sync/link up with ecigstats (now secretly at v1.8) and I notice when I sort by last sync date, either ascending or descending, yuppers it's sorts alphabetically by month name (totally wrong) and doesn't even look at the year.
I think James is stretched too thin. Heck, he hasn't even been on in over 2 weeks. I think they got heaps of issues over there. No reply from Nick on the ticket I opened over 2 days ago
When I did a comparison previously I found zero parts that would interchange between the authentic TGT4 and the SRG V4.....but I didn't bother to compare the glass tank liners till today. The SRG v4 glass is about 4 mm taller and the same thickness and diameter. (no interchage)BTW there are spare glass sections available on FT
$4.92 Replacement Glass Tank for SRG V4/Typhoon GT4 RTA Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
The Shenray GT4 and the Ulton GT4 appear to be the same and all parts interchange with the authentic.
My 2 Paranormals are pure carp. PURE. The TC is not as smooth as any of my Non C's (even a 75), and they each totally drop out of TC about 5% of the time with a Temp Protected error. I'll go along all perfect, boom Temp protected and stop the vape even with my finger on the fire button, then next one or 20 fine.
I think James is stretched too thin.
So I sync/link up with ecigstats (now secretly at v1.8) and I notice when I sort by last sync date, either ascending or descending, yuppers it's sorts alphabetically by month name (totally wrong) and doesn't even look at the year.
I think James is stretched too thin. Heck, he hasn't even been on in over 2 weeks. I think they got heaps of issues over there. No reply from Nick on the ticket I opened over 2 days ago
Whoa! I too own two Paranormals 250C and now the just released Triade 250C (yes it is available now). And I haven't seen this at all. But I mainly use Ni200 and SS316L and what are you using?
Yuppers? That sounds a lot like yooper (a native or inhabitant of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan). I actually know a lot of yoopers.
They make some of the best pasties. No not that thing that is stuck on a nipple (get your mind out of the gutter) . It is a Cornish pasty actually. 
I dunno. I have two 75Cs and a 250C running for a couple of months now. One 75C did do the white screen thing, looked like a vapor cloud on the screen, but I am pretty sure it was from the ribbon cable being pinched by the fire button. When I replaced the board and screen I ground a flat in the fire button flange to add some extra clearance for the ribbon cable, in an Alpine Tech GL2 with dual 20700s. I do wish the zif connector was located a little further back on the board but I also appreciate the limitations of space in a printed circuit layout.
I haven't had any TC problems at all, but all of mine are "home brew". The Mrs. likes SS430 coils and I like titanium. Both seem to be working fine, for us, in the "C" models as well as the monochrome models.
I will say the GL2 lasts a looong time, especially now that I started using a Merlin on it. Single coil, six wrap, 26 gauge titanium. My guesstimate is four days, four tanks, on a charge. The Merlin is actually outperforming my Aromamizers in terms of vapor and flavor output, amazing for a single coil tank. I think I hit a sweet spot for the Merlin, but it's a liquid hog now for sure.
I've got another 75C and another 250C under construction. Just need to find/make the time to finish them both.
I haven't had any TC problems at all, but all of mine are "home brew". The Mrs. likes SS430 coils and I like titanium. Both seem to be working fine, for us, in the "C" models as well as the monochrome models.
I will say the GL2 lasts a looong time, especially now that I started using a Merlin on it. Single coil, six wrap, 26 gauge titanium. My guesstimate is four days, four tanks, on a charge. The Merlin is actually outperforming my Aromamizers in terms of vapor and flavor output, amazing for a single coil tank. I think I hit a sweet spot for the Merlin, but it's a liquid hog now for sure.
I've got another 75C and another 250C under construction. Just need to find/make the time to finish them both.
@BillW50 I'm using 2 Ammit 25's, each with SS316L 2x28 w 40 wrap. TC only. Between my 75, 200, 250, 250C the cold ohms are all within 3 thousandths of the C.
If you link up with ecigstats, you can actually see the Device Monitor display of your individual puffs. Or you can download your puff data (csv) from within Device Monitor. I filtered earlier on puffs < 1 second to come up with the 5% value, and it shows 'peak temp'. This correlates with the temp protected errors.
Cold ohms @ .434
If you link up with ecigstats, you can actually see the Device Monitor display of your individual puffs. Or you can download your puff data (csv) from within Device Monitor. I filtered earlier on puffs < 1 second to come up with the 5% value, and it shows 'peak temp'. This correlates with the temp protected errors.
Cold ohms @ .434
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