Should I just buy a Fullymax & rewire it? or is there a better choice?
Steamer, the thing to keep in mind is that the weak battery warning is generated by the momentary sag during preheat, not during normal power levels. I'm using a 50 watt, 1 second, preheat as well and, other than the problems you're aware of, can run them down to 3.3 volts when put on a charger after "weak battery". I'm using LG HD2s for reference.
Take a look at it in device monitor and it may put your mind a little more ease.
Yes a Fullymax 900 3S, couldn't I just rewire it in parallel instead of series ?DNA200????
I'm trying, very hard, to get the DNA75 working as I think/feel it should. I want the convenience of being able to swap batteries with the features of Evolv TC. It is proving to be a little(?) more difficult than the plug and play I anticipated. If you're happy with onboard charging rather than replacing batteries, go for it.
The 900 would be a total of 2700mah, not that much greater than a good 2000-2500, but would have the discharge advantages of LiPO over IMR. Still, you lose the ability to replace a battery when needed.
Another dodge is to lower the cutoff voltage or shut off the "weak battery" message. Next would be dual 18650s but you pay a size and weight penalty. Cutting that preheat down would also solve it.
The 900 would be a total of 2700mah, not that much greater than a good 2000-2500, but would have the discharge advantages of LiPO over IMR. Still, you lose the ability to replace a battery when needed.
Another dodge is to lower the cutoff voltage or shut off the "weak battery" message. Next would be dual 18650s but you pay a size and weight penalty. Cutting that preheat down would also solve it.
Willie, I wouldn't leave a LiPO or IMR alone for a test cycle, just common sense not to. I'm having other problems with the 75s but am doing everything I can think of to rectify it. I will admit that I am leaning toward the idea that the 75 isn't for me, the firmware is too different from the 200 in many respects and, is suspect, causing the problem I am encountering.
Try changing it to 2.8 just for S & G & see if it performs w/o a weak battery error through a longer range. As Awsum said, it is only while triggering the sag is present so fool it into not cutting off prematurelyI left it at 3.3
I know it's the preheat that killing meBut I'm not going down
I have my 200's set at 100 watts for 3 seconds then down to 45.
I know what I'm up against & also know I need lipo's in there, to get the performance I'm looking for, hence my questionMike?
Try changing it to 2.8 just for S & G & see if it performs w/o a weak battery error through a longer range. As Awsum said, it is only while triggering the sag is present so fool it into not cutting off prematurely
I was going to suggest the same thing. 3.3 seems high. I thought it started or defaulted to 3.09? I could be wrong tho, maybe that's the lipo setting.Try changing it to 2.8 just for S & G & see if it performs w/o a weak battery error through a longer range. As Awsum said, it is only while triggering the sag is present so fool it into not cutting off prematurely
I was going to say the same thing. My draws are usually 3 to 4 seconds at Max. When I use pre-heat, it's 1 second and usually 40w soft or medium.Gee I didn't even know that the preheat could be set longer than 2 seconds. I just got done giving it a try at 3.3 seconds.
Problem is for me is my pulls aren't even 3 seconds....LOL
My pulls amount to maybe 2 sec unless blowing clouds.
I will try lowering down to 2.75 & see what happens
I use VTC5's 20 amp 2500 mAHI tried a VTC4 it has a bit higher Amp rating but lower mAH no significant difference
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