Evolv-ing Thread

KTMRider

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mikepetro

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ERM+ #015 is back up and running!

Mikey P, I'll trade ya 2 white JST connectors for 2 XT 30 female connectors!

J/K...kinda. I had to solder one up on a new battery cuz the old battery was kaput and I was too lazy (again) to desolder the XT 30 off of it.

The new-to-me DNA200 has the "duller" OLED screen, but the menu selections perform MUCH quicker than the other board. Are there firmware updates I'm supposed to download or something? :confused:
Sorry, I have no spare JSTs of either sex......
 

mikepetro

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ERM+ #015 is back up and running!

Mikey P, I'll trade ya 2 white JST connectors for 2 XT 30 female connectors!

J/K...kinda. I had to solder one up on a new battery cuz the old battery was kaput and I was too lazy (again) to desolder the XT 30 off of it.

The new-to-me DNA200 has the "duller" OLED screen, but the menu selections perform MUCH quicker than the other board. Are there firmware updates I'm supposed to download or something? :confused:
Hold the Press.....

Actually READ (as opposed to skimmed) your post this time, yes, I can do that trade!
 

MadOzodi

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Was the battery death due to the board malfunction? Did you try to recover your battery with E-Scribe?
I'm just asking cause I had board malfunctions were it appeared to have killed my batteries :(
I was able to revive my batteries with the recovery function in E-Scribe :)
My batteries are still performing flawlessly, now months later :)

I honestly have no idea. I never bothered to DL the E-Scribe software because I have a late-2008 MBPro and don't trust the version of WinXP I have installed on it via Bootcamp. *insert hidecouch smiley here*

Hold the Press.....

Actually READ (as opposed to skimmed) your post this time, yes, I can do that trade!

Thank you for actually reading my post...:glare: Before we commit to this trade, I need to verify 100% that it's the female connectors (not the male) that I need. *insert 2nd hidecouch smiley here*
 

Phone Guy

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Question for stainless users...

Ive had this problem is forever with stainless.. The first couple of minutes on a newly wrapped coil (316L) Vapes hotter, then after I let it sit (after I've been vaped it) the vape cools down tremendously.

The first few pulls I usually lower to 400f and it Vapes like it's at 500f or hotter, then after it settles I have to up the temp to 480f to 500f to get it back to what I consider acceptable.

I'm running sp3 now, but it's done that since I first got the ss316.... Not sure if it's my wire or my build? But I know it's not my imagination.
 

awsum140

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I had a similar problem with Ti. Vaped fine for a while then, if I let the mod sit and went back to it, tootle puff time. I fixed it by resetting temperature after it was tootle puffing for output and flavor. I haven't had it happen with SS, yet, but fully expect it to happen.
 

VapingBad

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Question for stainless users...

Ive had this problem is forever with stainless.. The first couple of minutes on a newly wrapped coil (316L) Vapes hotter, then after I let it sit (after I've been vaped it) the vape cools down tremendously.

The first few pulls I usually lower to 400f and it Vapes like it's at 500f or hotter, then after it settles I have to up the temp to 480f to 500f to get it back to what I consider acceptable.

I'm running sp3 now, but it's done that since I first got the ss316.... Not sure if it's my wire or my build? But I know it's not my imagination.
Sounds like the initial res reading is a little high and refinement is clearing that up for you. If all your connections are clean and tight, including board mount screws if it is a common ground design like the ERM+, you could try increasing your mod res a fraction.
 

mackman

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Question for stainless users...

Ive had this problem is forever with stainless.. The first couple of minutes on a newly wrapped coil (316L) Vapes hotter, then after I let it sit (after I've been vaped it) the vape cools down tremendously.

The first few pulls I usually lower to 400f and it Vapes like it's at 500f or hotter, then after it settles I have to up the temp to 480f to 500f to get it back to what I consider acceptable.

I'm running sp3 now, but it's done that since I first got the ss316.... Not sure if it's my wire or my build? But I know it's not my imagination.

Same here went back to TI. Seems I tried everything I could read on the subject to no avail. Vapes fine in power mode.
 

SlickWilly

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Did you guys watch what was happening in Device Monitor when it was acting up? Watch the temp, power and live ohms, it might point you where to look. I had this happen a couple time with pre-built nickle coils in my Zephyrus, I could see the resistance fluctuate a little in DM and it was higher then it should have been. I cleaned the 510 on both the mod and atty as well as the floating center pin in the atty that connects to the coil head and the problem went away. I've gotten in the habit, when ever I take an atty off I clean the 510 on both, usually I don't see any signs of being dirty but now and then I'll get black streaks on the q-tips when I press it hard into the threads of the 510.
 

mikepetro

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I honestly have no idea. I never bothered to DL the E-Scribe software because I have a late-2008 MBPro and don't trust the version of WinXP I have installed on it via Bootcamp. *insert hidecouch smiley here*



Thank you for actually reading my post...:glare: Before we commit to this trade, I need to verify 100% that it's the female connectors (not the male) that I need. *insert 2nd hidecouch smiley here*
A picture is worth a thousand hidecouch smileys!
 

mikepetro

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