+1 for the DNA60!
I'm running 4 of them & really liking themKinda wished I had got more of them when I had a chance
But hind sight is always 20/20
Glad to hear Classy is ok
I haven't built anything in a while either so I decided to build a shelf for my 12 50cal ammo cans I got a couple of months ago. I tried cutting the 2x4's with a circular saw and realized it wasn't cutting straight so I sprung for a miter saw. A project isn't really a project unless you acquire a tool, right?From the plans I followed, it should hold about 800lbs per shelf. Not sure if that's right but this should easily hold 4 full ammo cans on each shelf.
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Nah, just a typical NYer.
Oh!! I'm going to be bending your ear on that! I could use the same thing, I like it!! Expect a PM in a couple days when I get more time!
Yeah, tools in my eye's are always an investment, they save you time, help get the job done right and save you so much money over the years by doing it yourself. I rather buy a new tool then a new toy, to me tools are my toys but I'm an old mechanic and tinkerer so.....![]()
The city yes, not from upstate, it's a different world up here and so much nicer then that tiny $^% hole that has all the voting power and rules how we live up here in farm land.
Big push to change that---> newamsterdamny.org/about.html
I started with this article: How To Build an Ammo Can Rack (a.k.a the Overbuilt Shelf Project)
I didn't need as many shelves and the bottom legs looked like a weak link so I shortened my design. I also modified the sides so it looked a bit better. When I built my workbench, I used a circular saw and jigsaw for cutting 2x4 and plywood and it worked great. This time, I was confused why nothing squared right which is why I bought the miter saw. It definitely helped but the problem was that the wood was slightly warped. I did my best to square it but it's not perfect. That's ok because it's just to hold ammo cans.
The tape measures are tiny, less than 2" square and I found them to be very useful.
I have a few friends that live upstate near Woodbury Commons and WAY nicer than the NYC metro area. I live 10mins from NYC and I hate it so much I've avoided going into the city for over 5 yrs (not even for Katz).
Still a great design, no wasted space. Anything particularly difficult in mounting the board itself or the charging board? Did you go with a smaller wire size on the output (since it is so short)?Been using the BAP60 all day, not a bad little mod......
Got two VTC5s in it.
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I used 18g silicone for output and battery.Still a great design, no wasted space. Anything particularly difficult in mounting the board itself or the charging board? Did you go with a smaller wire size on the output (since it is so short)?
Not even for Katz!!!![]()
Thirty years ago when we bought this old house I planed on remodeling all the rooms but wanted to save as much of the old hand made trim. The old way I'd be able to match the old woodwork would be to make it myself so I bought a big cast iron topped table saw and put it in the basement, I've got a lot, a lot, a lot of use out of that saw and it still is in great shape. Like I say, tools are an investment!
A couple months ago I had to make a screen insert for an old wooded storm door so we have a screen at the front porch door while the porch screens were gutted for the painting. I went to lowes and picked up one of the basic kreg jigs, if you don't have one run right out and get one, today! They are amazing, making solid joints is so quick and easy, I made that box screen frame in a half hour with just .... end joints screwed with the pocket holes. It was fast, easy, accurate joints and rock soild! God I wish I bought one many years ago! I got this one, Shop Kreg Pocket Hole Jig at Lowes.com BTW, Don't spend the money on the clamp they sell to use with it --> Shop Kreg Clamp 2.75-in Clamp at Lowes.com These work perfect with the jig 12 in. Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader or you can get these and weld a washer to the jaw and you'll have the same as the Kreg's 11 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
6 in. Swivel Pad Locking Pliers
Thanks, Mike. I guess I could have looked up some wire ampacities, that 18g you selected should be fine for what we build and especially the very short jumps in the Tibs boxes. I'm a master at making ugly distorted USB holes from my days of trying to replace those original 0.5A charger boards with the 1 amp boards, I'm sure I can mangle them a bit more. I'm into functional.I used 18g silicone for output and battery.
The board mounted with no modification at all. I left the rails on the board as there were screw holes perfectly spaced to mount the board that way.
The hardest part was enlarging the recess for the charging board. Leave the left edge alone, and just enlarge the right edge to center the USB with the back cover. That nylon is tough to machine by hand. I used a hot knife to melt the bulk away, then used an exacto knife to trim to size. My rotary stuff doesnt work well on sintered nylon, or at least I havent found the right tip to remove material without melting it. The other thing is being sure to flush cut the 5 USB wires at the bottom of the board, solder from the top and cut the bottoms off. If you dont flush cut the charging board doesnt sit level.