It was a great vape just a poor design implementation. Augvape borrows all their designs from other companies, the Boreas from steam crave and the Merlin from OBS.
“Borrowing”. Seems to be. Fair play today!
Not only in vaping hardware, every wear!
I like the deck on the. Merlin, you can’t complain about the. Cost of one either
Has been since the beginning. War of the "Clones".
And we the consumer encourage it by buying the stuff.
It is an ethical Pandora's box though, if originals were reasonably priced, clones and knockoffs wouldnt succeed in the marketplace.
I admit to buying many knockoffs, as well as many originals. Where is the ethical line between outright forgery and a cheap (self admitted) knockoff.
hmpf!You think I'd give FB my real DOB?
Good question. "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery", and without some degree of imitation, there would be far fewer incremental improvements. Yet outright forgery by including the original maker's name and/or logo on a product is clearly shameless and indefensible.
Bill is right TD, the only way to get a battery to take a faster charge is to increase the charging voltage. Current isn't forced into a battery, it is drawn in by the battery chemistry and the higher the charging voltage the more current the batt will draw. In cc mode the charger must raise the charging voltage until it sees the correct charge current. As the battery charges up it requires higher and higher charging voltage to maintain the cc. Once the batt reaches around 90-95% the charger switches to cv mode. Now, how it knows what voltage the batt is actually at during the cc charging mode I'm not sure because actual batt voltage cannot be measured during cc charging with only 2 wires. Seems like it would have to periodically switch off cc mode to measure actual batt voltage and then either resume cc charging or switch to cv charging as necessary.
Here's something to ponder, I can put a 13.6v 500ma wall wart charger on a 12.2v car battery and not see any immediate difference in measured voltage at the battery terminals for a good long while. If I wait long enough (days) I will eventually see 13.6v at the batt terminals. If I take the same 12.2v battery and put it in my car and start it I'll see 13.8v-14.5v on the batt terminals immediately. Why is that? Is it the difference in charge current capacity between the 500ma wall wart vs the 90a alternator? Admittedly I have never truly understood this.
Car battery on a charger, the battery is drawing in the current, taking a charge, once the battery charge rises the voltage seen on the meter climbs because the battery isn't taking it, like pinching off a water hose, the pressure (voltage) from the faucet side rises. Somewhere in my toolbox I have the instructions on testing a battery to see if it's taking a charge with the voltage readings you should see (with a discharged battery and at the proper amps the charger is set at). Use to know this off the top of my head but since that data has been overwritten.
In a car with the engine running your seeing alternator voltage, once running the vehicle is running off the alternator, the battery is really just there just to start the car. Start the engine and pull the neg battery terminal, the engine and all electrical systems still function because it's running off the alternator.
Sure, but how much you have to raise the voltage should be a function of the battery's natural voltage at its present state-of-charge and its internal resistance, which is quite low, usually no more than a few tens of milliohms. In other words, it should not take much of a voltage increase at all to get a whopping amount of current to flow.
Because your car's starter battery likely has an internal resistance in the single-digit milliohm range. Do the math. How much voltage increase can you get with 500 mA going through, say, 10 milliohms?
Exactly! Slower chargers will never exceed more than 4.2v, like my XTAR VC4. But it only has a 5v power source. So without a built in boost converter, it doesn't have much more voltage to work with anyway. This guy had taken all of the scope readings for the VC4.
Test/Review of Charger Xtar VC4
My Triton RC will put out more than 4.2v per cell for faster charging. And yes, it does pause charging like every few minutes or so to read the battery's voltage. And if it pauses to read the cell's voltage and it is up to 4.18v, it switches over to CV to finish the charging.
Almost all NiCad and NiMH chargers does the pausing thing too. Although they do this faster like pause, like 50msec every second including my VC4 charger. My Triton charger does the same checking every few minutes as with lithium.
Think of the battery at any given moment as a voltage source with a (very low ohm) resistor in series. Let's say your car battery is in low state of charge and measures exactly 12.0V under no-load conditions. How much the voltage rises instanly when you apply a charging current depends on the battery's internal resistance and the amount of current the charger can supply. V=IR. If the battery's internal resistance is 10 milliohms, 500 mA can only increase its voltage instantaneously by 5 mV, whereas your car's 90A alternator can instantly increase it by 0.9V.
Ding ding ding ding, click flash boom, bells are ringing and the lights came on!!
Batteries are distinctly different than circuits I guess. I just remember from my school days that all the voltage from vcc is dropped in a circuit. I guess that's what threw me.
Thanks Rossum
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I haven't been on ECF in a while, ongoing medical issues - boring stuff, but starting get back out on the forums and getting twitchy about buying a new DNA box now that it looks like the replay feature I poo-pooed initially as never going to work looks, from several people on my home forum, to be actually quite good. I've been blissfully trotting along with my ePetite (and of course my beloved TreeBox) but now that "everyone else" I know is replaying I feel a bit left out, and I'm super pro tc, so I feel the world is off its axis if I'm not at the forefront
But the big issue I'm having is that I like very plain box mods, as in no adornments/accented panels or bonkers design or colours, so for me what is currently available with a dna75c or 250c is damb fugly to thine eyes. The HCigar dual battery 75c mod is only just possibly maybe acceptable...
I've been looking for anything affordable and plain....plain should equal affordable, right?
I'm jonesing...it's gotten so bad now that the other day I sent the Vandy Vape people an unsolicited rather pleading email, asking them if they'd consider using their new Pulse 80W mod design (which I thought was the best design I'd seen in ages, even though I'm not and will never be a squonk - I do not reject and try and fight gravity, my juice goes in a tank on top of the mid the way <insert your personal magical sky fairy here> intended) as a base platform to build me, and plain design loving others I know exist in large numbers, a dna75c based box mod, omitting the squonk cutout on the side panel, leaving out the sippy cup (squonk bottle) and instead adding a second battery or leaving it void and a single....and if I could have it in all plain black like their full black pulse 80W I'd be a happy camper.
I've just become so dissalusioned by the raft of fugly mods streaming out of China in the last year or so, so much fugly ....that this is what it's come to, me pleading with a vendor...
I've lost hope if List Vape coming up with something I'd buy, going on their current designs...I fear the ePetite may be the last thing I buy from them, pity, everytime they made a simple box mod (Original Effusion) I went out and bought it and loved them...
Does anyone share my pain at the current trend of fugly mods getting in the way of your vape bliss. To my eyes it looks like there's 1 16yo kid in China designing for the entire industry, and I'm happy to put up the cash to make him go away. Okay, maybe there's 2 of them, one person is prolly solely responsible for the seemingly iron clad requirement currently plaguing the market to add resin to fricking everything.
It's simple, I want a dna75c mod, won't someone sell me a plain non-fugly one...
I like my mods boxy, boring and black...or silver at a stretch. If I see resin or rainbow, someone's going to die.....
p.s. please don't suggest the list vape mirage, or I'll have to repost my diatribe from my home forum about it looking like it is made from left over vape forward parts, how if only the side panels radius's extended down and were the same radius as the from cutout, it might be almost acceptable...only much much longer
Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
But the big issue I'm having is that I like very plain box mods, as in no adornments/accented panels or bonkers design or colours, so for me what is currently available with a dna75c or 250c is damb fugly to thine eyes. The HCigar dual battery 75c mod is only just possibly maybe acceptable...
I've been looking for anything affordable and plain....plain should equal affordable, right?
I'm jonesing...it's gotten so bad now that the other day I sent the Vandy Vape people an unsolicited rather pleading email, asking them if they'd consider using their new Pulse 80W mod design (which I thought was the best design I'd seen in ages, even though I'm not and will never be a squonk - I do not reject and try and fight gravity, my juice goes in a tank on top of the mid the way <insert your personal magical sky fairy here> intended) as a base platform to build me, and plain design loving others I know exist in large numbers, a dna75c based box mod, omitting the squonk cutout on the side panel, leaving out the sippy cup (squonk bottle) and instead adding a second battery or leaving it void and a single....and if I could have it in all plain black like their full black pulse 80W I'd be a happy camper.
I've just become so dissalusioned by the raft of fugly mods streaming out of China in the last year or so, so much fugly ....that this is what it's come to, me pleading with a vendor...
I've lost hope if List Vape coming up with something I'd buy, going on their current designs...I fear the ePetite may be the last thing I buy from them, pity, everytime they made a simple box mod (Original Effusion) I went out and bought it and loved them...
Does anyone share my pain at the current trend of fugly mods getting in the way of your vape bliss. To my eyes it looks like there's 1 16yo kid in China designing for the entire industry, and I'm happy to put up the cash to make him go away. Okay, maybe there's 2 of them, one person is prolly solely responsible for the seemingly iron clad requirement currently plaguing the market to add resin to fricking everything.
It's simple, I want a dna75c mod, won't someone sell me a plain non-fugly one...
I like my mods boxy, boring and black...or silver at a stretch. If I see resin or rainbow, someone's going to die.....
p.s. please don't suggest the list vape mirage, or I'll have to repost my diatribe from my home forum about it looking like it is made from left over vape forward parts, how if only the side panels radius's extended down and were the same radius as the from cutout, it might be almost acceptable...only much much longer
Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk
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Ding ding ding ding, click flash boom, bells are ringing and the lights came on!!
Batteries are distinctly different than circuits I guess. I just remember from my school days that all the voltage from vcc is dropped in a circuit. I guess that's what threw me.
Thanks Rossum
In the case of charging a battery, the battery is the circuit, just an extremely low resistance circuit.
Right. I'm thinking that the 500ma wall wart is just sagging voltage because the battery is demanding more current than the thing can produce. Same thing would happen in any demanding circuit with an insufficient power source.
I posted this a page ago, it was at the bottom so it was probably missed by a few.
I didn't measure any higher voltage on the cell across the various current ranges.
Started on the 0.5A range popped the battery in and let it settle in a few minutes. The LCD read 37% and I measured 3.7V on the charge posts. Switching the charge rate switch to 1A and 2A, I continued to measure 3.7V on the posts.
Putting the meter in series with the battery I measured 0.48A, 0.97A and 1.9A switching between the 0.5A/1A/2A settings.
I don't grasp how it requires more than 4.2V put to the battery for higher current charging.
I didn't measure any higher voltage on the cell across the various current ranges.
Started on the 0.5A range popped the battery in and let it settle in a few minutes. The LCD read 37% and I measured 3.7V on the charge posts. Switching the charge rate switch to 1A and 2A, I continued to measure 3.7V on the posts.
Putting the meter in series with the battery I measured 0.48A, 0.97A and 1.9A switching between the 0.5A/1A/2A settings.
I don't grasp how it requires more than 4.2V put to the battery for higher current charging.
Because our cells won't take anything much more than 1A @ 4.20v. Just like those big diesel semi trucks can't start with a 12v starter. They have 2, 4, or more 12v batteries. And when the engine is running, they are wired in parallel. But when you go to start those engines, half of the batteries are wired in series with the other half to give the 24v starter enough amps and 24v to turn over those huge engines.
If your car alternator only put out 12.6v to charge your car battery, it would take days to charge them back up again. So they put out something much higher so they will provide more amperage to charge them much faster.
The same with lithium cells. Sure just 4.20v is okay for slow charging. But to shorten the charging time, you must use a higher voltage so as to increase the charging current. The same for all battery types.
The laws of physics: Current flows from a higher voltage potential to a lower voltage potential and the greater the difference between the voltages the more the current flows. But as Rossum and Awsum said the batteries have very low resistance (impedance) so it wouldn't take much over 4.2v at the charger to produce much higher current flow to the batt.
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