So, another rainy day here, at least until mid afternoon anyway. I finally got a round tuit and did some work on mods. I fixed both 75Cs and put a new battery in my original DNA200 1590G from way back when the first DNA200 co-op happened. Quite a while ago. That battery has to have had at least 300 cycles on it. It was kind of puffy and had obviously lost a lot of capacity, but it sure held up for a long time. That mod has been a real workhorse and was my first dna, hand-built, mod. One of the door magnets came out so it's sitting on the workbench for a day while the glue dries, then it'll go back into regular rotation.
I put a new board in the Mrs 75C and, in the process, found out that it didn't need a board after all. I went to test the new board with the old screen before gluing the board sled into the case. I stuck a battery in the battery sled of the mod, clipped onto the leads for the board with some test leads and couldn't get it to fire. Turns out the real problem was the battery sled losing contact with the positive terminals. Made a few "adjustments" to, hopefully, stop that from happening again. Crappy battery sleds!
That left me with a screen so I put that into my own 75C which had died last fall with a white screen of death. After that I was going to assemble the second N1 I have, getting a 4S, 2200mah,and a 250C. I already have one of those built and that battery last for two and a half refills on a Supreme. Unfortunately I ran out of round tuit before I got very far. Maybe another rainy day...three out of four ain't too bad.
I put a new board in the Mrs 75C and, in the process, found out that it didn't need a board after all. I went to test the new board with the old screen before gluing the board sled into the case. I stuck a battery in the battery sled of the mod, clipped onto the leads for the board with some test leads and couldn't get it to fire. Turns out the real problem was the battery sled losing contact with the positive terminals. Made a few "adjustments" to, hopefully, stop that from happening again. Crappy battery sleds!
That left me with a screen so I put that into my own 75C which had died last fall with a white screen of death. After that I was going to assemble the second N1 I have, getting a 4S, 2200mah,and a 250C. I already have one of those built and that battery last for two and a half refills on a Supreme. Unfortunately I ran out of round tuit before I got very far. Maybe another rainy day...three out of four ain't too bad.
Nothing beats. New wicks! I rewicked both my works. Plus,s &. They are. Tasting so fine. Right now 
I built a whole, brandy new, original Aromamizer for the 75C I fixed yesterday. Well worth the effort. Nothing beats a fresh coil and fresh wick!
I can now verify that this Lipo https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00R3P592Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Will fit into the VT200
Length & width are all most identical Depth is a bit bigger but plenty of room, including an XT30
This claims to be a 1300mAH? Venom is a pretty good brand I have a few others from them & they work well I'l compare run times to my other VT200 with the original HCigar lipo in it, Eventually I'm just happy it's going to Fit
Length & width are all most identical Depth is a bit bigger but plenty of room, including an XT30
This claims to be a 1300mAH? Venom is a pretty good brand I have a few others from them & they work well
I'l compare run times to my other VT200 with the original HCigar lipo in it, Eventually I'm just happy it's going to Fit I can now verify that this Lipo https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00R3P592Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Will fit into the VT200
Length & width are all most identical Depth is a bit bigger but plenty of room, including an XT30
This claims to be a 1300mAH? Venom is a pretty good brand I have a few others from them & they work well
Nice find Steamer861. US links are:
x1 $18.99
https://www.amazon.com/Venom-1300mAh-11-1V-Battery-flite/dp/B00R3P592Y
x2 $33.99
https://www.amazon.com/Venom-1300mAh-Battery-Compare-EFLB13003S20/dp/B016ZM2Z1I
OK, a real head scratcher for DNA experts.
That DNA75C I "fixed" the other day is once again exhibiting the same behavior. It will work fine for a couple of hits, then shut down on its' own. Sometimes it shuts down during the five click "turn on" sequence, sometimes it won't even wake up. I've eliminated the battery sled as the culprit.
When connected to eScribe it drops off line when it shuts itself down. Sometimes it will reconnect immediately, sometimes it won't. I ran atomizer analyzer, grasping at straws, and noticed something really strange. Using a copper plug it will display a value of negative ohms, -0.002. Granted the leads are short and 14 gauge, but negative ohms? Maybe the 510 is the culprit, but it's a Stealthvape Source, 22mm
Any advice/comments are welcomed, even wild guesses. I'm out of ideas. This is the second board in the same mod to do this. I have a duplicate mod built exactly the same way and it works fine.
That DNA75C I "fixed" the other day is once again exhibiting the same behavior. It will work fine for a couple of hits, then shut down on its' own. Sometimes it shuts down during the five click "turn on" sequence, sometimes it won't even wake up. I've eliminated the battery sled as the culprit.
When connected to eScribe it drops off line when it shuts itself down. Sometimes it will reconnect immediately, sometimes it won't. I ran atomizer analyzer, grasping at straws, and noticed something really strange. Using a copper plug it will display a value of negative ohms, -0.002. Granted the leads are short and 14 gauge, but negative ohms? Maybe the 510 is the culprit, but it's a Stealthvape Source, 22mm
Any advice/comments are welcomed, even wild guesses. I'm out of ideas. This is the second board in the same mod to do this. I have a duplicate mod built exactly the same way and it works fine.
How is it grounded? I have 2 Silo 1300's & they gave me issues till I ran a separate ground! Relying on a case ground some times cause's issues
There is a separate ground for the 510 and the batteries, it's a dual 20700. Maybe I'll try a connection between the battery negative and the 510 ground just in case it's something funky with internal board grounds.
I figured out the negative ohms thing, my own "duhhhh" moment. The mod resistance was set at 0.008 and it's actually 0.006 so when the shorting plug went in it would show a negative 0.002. Simple math, duhhhh.
I figured out the negative ohms thing, my own "duhhhh" moment. The mod resistance was set at 0.008 and it's actually 0.006 so when the shorting plug went in it would show a negative 0.002. Simple math, duhhhh.
This is no big deal. It just means that the calibration is high by 0.002Ω. I can't think of any reason why a 510 would cause the board to completely shutdown. Even if the 510 intermittently shorted, the board should never power down.
And I agree with Steamer861. Case ground can cause problems. Although if you are sure the battery connections are solid to the board, the only thing left is the board itself.
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