Evolv-ing Thread

laurie9300

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I forgot about that, I don't think you could buy precut bits back then?? That was a challenge to learn the three different angles to get a good cutting bit. I cheated, at the start of the class we were each given one blank piece, we each had to learn to grind it correctly then it was up to us to regrind it when it needed it and it was up to us not to loose it, I asked Dad if he had a old spare ;) Once I had one cut right I kept that was my guide and had a second to use and recut. :thumb:

They don't offer classes like that anymore, I wish they did but as dangerous as those machines were I guess I can understand why they don't. Flesh and bone has no chance of stopping a spinning chuck on a lathe, they could rip a limb off in a second.

That is very cool you have that handed down lathe and stuff you made back then, I have no idea what happen to the things I made, that was so long ago. I do have my Dad's machinist tools and wooden tool box, I only use a couple of the tools, the rest I leave alone, the box sits in my office in memory of Dad and those wonderful days. His tool box is identical to this one, green felt, mirror, hardware, handles and all.
iu
I've just been watching a video on those toolboxs!

 

MikeE3

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I've just been watching a video on those toolboxs!



Thanks for posting that ... I have a vintage Gerstner Chest that was passed down to me. The felt is well worn, one of the drawer pulls is funky and the finish is decent but shows it wear and age. I'd no idea you could get them restored by Gerstner ... although the cost would most likely be more than I'd be willing to pay.
 

TrollDragon

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Well my Toyota Matrix clone (09 Vibe) has been randomly dipping down to 500 RPM when coming to a stop recently, almost feels like its going to stall but immediately picks back up again. Cruising the Vibe/Matrix forums had every thing as the possible cause from defective throttle body to ECM... It doesn't throw a code and seems to happen more often when it's damp out.

Talking to a local mechanic, he mentioned that a can of throttle body cleaner couldn't hurt, the car has 187K kms on it so I thought what the hell. Took the ETB off today and game it a good scrubbing, lots of black bits came out and it looks like new again, here's hoping for a $12 fix. That dampness bit has me thinking there is a green bit of wire on a connection somewhere but time will tell.

It seems to be a common problem but no solid answers from the forums as to what it could be.
 

awsum140

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I have a "capless" fuel door on my F150. I occasionally get a check engine light and a check fuel door warning. It seems to happen with 1/2 a tank and hot weather. Searching the webz says it's probably just dirt in the two flapper valves inside the tank neck, it has an outer and an inner. I'll give it a shot cleaning it and see what happens. The stealer, err, ahh, dealer, want $200 to fix it. I'll see how it works out.
 

Steamer861

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no solid answers from the forums

Searching the webz says it's probably

What did we do before the internet?
My garage door opener started to beep yesterday, I searched YT & it said my back up battery was dyeing! Ha I didn't even know it had one! $20 bucks from the local battery place :) & it opens even unplugged! I swear it's been in the garage for 6 or 7 years now & I would have never known, it had a back up battery :)
 

SlickWilly

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Well my Toyota Matrix clone (09 Vibe) has been randomly dipping down to 500 RPM when coming to a stop recently, almost feels like its going to stall but immediately picks back up again. Cruising the Vibe/Matrix forums had every thing as the possible cause from defective throttle body to ECM... It doesn't throw a code and seems to happen more often when it's damp out.

Talking to a local mechanic, he mentioned that a can of throttle body cleaner couldn't hurt, the car has 187K kms on it so I thought what the hell. Took the ETB off today and game it a good scrubbing, lots of black bits came out and it looks like new again, here's hoping for a $12 fix. That dampness bit has me thinking there is a green bit of wire on a connection somewhere but time will tell.

It seems to be a common problem but no solid answers from the forums as to what it could be.

When it happens is it skipping or missing? It really can be caused by so many things, not kicking a code means it's not far enough outside of parameters for a code to set.

If you had a ODB II Bluetooth connector you can download free apps for smartphones or use Windows software and watch the signals coming from all the sensors. I bought this one last spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ Six weeks later they came out with a newer version--> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6 and were selling it as a new release promotion price a little less then what I paid for the then outdated version... This is the Win software I use on a notebook OBDwiz Automotive Diagnostic Software it came free with the Bluetooth connector. Problem with these, you need to learn the software and you'll need the factory repair manual so you can learn what each of the signals should be, a LOT of time invested to chase down a problem, you'll have to be determined and dedicated to invest time and money just to access the data going to the ECM, but once you have it, know how to use it and what to look for it THEN can save you time chasing down a problem. And that software, there is no manual, user guide or anything worthwhile under Help within the software, there is a forum where you can post questions... :rolleyes: You just have to keep playing with it until you figure it out, it does do a lot and it is very useful, but learning it you are on your own.

If you end up taking it to a shop, going to a Toyota dealer and asking for their best tech would probably save you money in the long run. I loved working in dealerships because I got to know that product, after some time I'd get a work order, read the customer complaint and many times know what the problem was before I even got to the car because we would see the same issues over and over. Working on many different brands in a general repair shop, you don't get that same amount of repetitive.
 

SlickWilly

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I have a "capless" fuel door on my F150. I occasionally get a check engine light and a check fuel door warning. It seems to happen with 1/2 a tank and hot weather. Searching the webz says it's probably just dirt in the two flapper valves inside the tank neck, it has an outer and an inner. I'll give it a shot cleaning it and see what happens. The stealer, err, ahh, dealer, want $200 to fix it. I'll see how it works out.

My son in law has that capless system on his Flex, I borrowed it one day while I had my Jeep under repairs, went to put gas in it, open the fuel door and was scratching my head when I saw that, "What the hell??" That's what we use to call a PPD (piss poor design).
 

SlickWilly

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Times were simple back then, gaped a new set of plugs and threw in a set of points. :D

Amen brother!! Other then waiting a few minuets for the choke to warm up and come off during the winter, there isn't enough difference between a good carb and points engine to make it worth the new systems, in my book anyways. I was very partial to the VW diesel's, no ignition system at all and great mileage! I had a few diesel Rabbit's and loved every one of them. During lunch one day I was telling the guys just for giggles I'd love to put a GTI five speed manual in my diesel Rabbit, one of them spoke up and said he had a used one he'd give me for a 12 pack of beer. I followed him home after work stopping to pick up the beer, wanted to have that trans in hand before he had a chance to think about it and change his mind!
 

Steamer861

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I was very partial to the VW diesel's,
My buddy had a Rabbit diesel, back in the day, in our business coloured fuel was free back then!
He ran that thing for ever & never spent a Dime on Fuel :) It was surprisingly good in the Snow!
 

TrollDragon

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When it happens is it skipping or missing? It really can be caused by so many things, not kicking a code means it's not far enough outside of parameters for a code to set.

If you had a ODB II Bluetooth connector you can download free apps for smartphones or use Windows software and watch the signals coming from all the sensors. I bought this one last spring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ Six weeks later they came out with a newer version--> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6 and were selling it as a new release promotion price a little less then what I paid for the then outdated version... This is the Win software I use on a notebook OBDwiz Automotive Diagnostic Software it came free with the Bluetooth connector. Problem with these, you need to learn the software and you'll need the factory repair manual so you can learn what each of the signals should be, a LOT of time invested to chase down a problem, you'll have to be determined and dedicated to invest time and money just to access the data going to the ECM, but once you have it, know how to use it and what to look for it THEN can save you time chasing down a problem. And that software, there is no manual, user guide or anything worthwhile under Help within the software, there is a forum where you can post questions... :rolleyes: You just have to keep playing with it until you figure it out, it does do a lot and it is very useful, but learning it you are on your own.

If you end up taking it to a shop, going to a Toyota dealer and asking for their best tech would probably save you money in the long run. I loved working in dealerships because I got to know that product, after some time I'd get a work order, read the customer complaint and many times know what the problem was before I even got to the car because we would see the same issues over and over. Working on many different brands in a general repair shop, you don't get that same amount of repetitive.
Thanks Willy, it doesn't appear to be missing or skipping just throttles back to almost a stall then resumes normal idle speed.

I have a basic ODB II reader that will give you the code and reset the MIL, picked it up for the Hyundai Accident that had a slow motor on the fuel tank leakage detector, $400 for the module or reset the MIL once a month with the $39 scanner. If it comes to the point where I'm going to need one of those BT ODB scanners I'll get one of the ones you linked for sure.

I'll see how the cleaning turns out, if the problem returns I'll most likely take it to a dealer. The local mechanic knows his stuff but like you say the dealer knows the product inside and out.

Except for the local Hyundai dealership that couldn't diagnose a faulty crank shaft sensor, but charged me $110 for the diagnosis and told me I had a minor exhaust manifold and oil pan leak. :glare:
 

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