Evolve DNA 12 preliminary Testing w/ MCU and OLED Display

[retird]

Thanks breaktru for lettin' us spread out a bit in your thread....

Tom, I can't recall anyone tracking any voltage variations as an atty/carto ages....but since VW automatically adjusts to maintain wattage, tracking it never occured to me....

As a side note, since I like simple vaping....I now order my standard Boge carto's a minimum of 10 boxes at a time...I only check one carto to validate that I received standard cartos and not LR's. They range from 2.7 to 3.1 ohm depending on the batch I receive. I throw them in my vape box and use them. Doesn't matter whether they are 2.7 or 3.1 because the VW automatically adjusts the voltage. Should I get a stray 2.0 ohm in the batch, no big deal as the voltage is automatically adjusted...

That is why I like VW, simple to me (plug and play)...not bashing VV in any way....used VV for a long while also..heck, I even modded a few VV's...now I can mod VW's...

OK, I've spread out enough....Back to modding with breaktru....

 

[breaktru]

Try your local optician's lab. They screw up lens all the time and have some they can't use. I'll bet they will give you several.

Get one for far sightedness...cut to size....and since they are polycarb or plastic...easy to polish.

You gave me an idea with eye glass lens, so I looked at all of my wife's and my old magna vision glasses and held them over the display. Unfortunately eye glass lens and convex magnifiers need to be held several inches away from the viewing area.
So I looked further into lenses. I found that the type of lens I would need is a bar magnifier that sits directly over the object to be viewed. I found a Bausch and Lomb magna bar that may work.

Thanks for steering me in the right direction Para.

 

[Para]

You gave me an idea with eye glass lens, so I looked at all of my wife's and my old magna vision glasses and held them over the display. Unfortunately eye glass lens and convex magnifiers need to be held several inches away from the viewing area.
So I looked further into lenses. I found that the type of lens I would need is a bar magnifier that sits directly over the object to be viewed. I found a Bausch and Lomb magna bar that may work.



Thanks for steering me in the right direction Para.

Looks like you get 2x/4x power from it....awesome. I think you found the answer. One thing leads to another until you arrive at the solution.

 

[Erik-GR]

Great work Breaktru!!!

 

[DonG]

You gave me an idea with eye glass lens, so I looked at all of my wife's and my old magna vision glasses and held them over the display. Unfortunately eye glass lens and convex magnifiers need to be held several inches away from the viewing area.
So I looked further into lenses. I found that the type of lens I would need is a bar magnifier that sits directly over the object to be viewed. I found a Bausch and Lomb magna bar that may work.

Thanks for steering me in the right direction Para.

Looks like a trip to the local

Looks like a trip to the local office supply store for a magnifying ruler to cut up might be in order.

 

[BJ43]

Love this forum, new ideas every day.
Carson MR-25 MagniRead Bar Magnifier 1.5X | eBay

 

[Bmbvegabmb]

Hello I have 4 DNA's coming this week and I have talked to Brandon about what I should use to build a mod. He has told me to get a 10k pot and I plan on using batteries from a Darwin which Brandon says will work good with 1 or 2 DNA's. Now my question if I get a Tenergy WU100 Version 2 display do I have to program it or something? Or will it work for the mod right out of the box? I am new to building mods but have some elect know how,So any help would be thank full.

 

[breaktru]

Hello I have 4 DNA's coming this week and I have talked to Brandon about what I should use to build a mod. He has told me to get a 10k pot and I plan on using batteries from a Darwin which Brandon says will work good with 1 or 2 DNA's. Now my question if I get a Tenergy WU100 Version 2 display do I have to program it or something? Or will it work for the mod right out of the box? I am new to building mods but have some elect know how,So any help would be thank full.

That is something you have to ask mamu. That's what she is using.

Here is the : Complete User Manual

 

[retird]

This meter requires a minimum of 4.o volts to operate....It would work with fully charged 3.7 volt batts(4.0 volts or above) till the voltage drops below 4.0 volts....you could plug an auxilliary power source (say a 9 volt radio battery) and would work, but the size of your PV increases....not really a good option for me.....but, that's what modding is about...if ya want to try it, just go for it....

SEE PAGE 11, 5.2 in the user manual that breaktru linked...it is explained there....

Hello I have 4 DNA's coming this week and I have talked to Brandon about what I should use to build a mod. He has told me to get a 10k pot and I plan on using batteries from a Darwin which Brandon says will work good with 1 or 2 DNA's. Now my question if I get a Tenergy WU100 Version 2 display do I have to program it or something? Or will it work for the mod right out of the box? I am new to building mods but have some elect know how,So any help would be thank full.

Also most meters are not 100% accurate.....here's the spec's on this meter..

http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/r102-amp-hour-specs.html

http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/ammeters/amp-meter-specs.html

 

[breaktru]

With the right camera distance the display looks pretty clear:

Not so clear but over 11 watts. Max was 11.58 watts.

USB charging:

 

[TomCatt]

All bow before the Great and Benevolent Mod-God.....BREAKTRU!!!


Dang, that's purty!!

 

[mamu]

Breaktru - did you do anything different from your original wiring/setup to get the DNA board to output 11.58 Watts when initially you were getting a max of 10.68 Watts? Are you able to consistently get those higher Watts? Have you ever reached 12 Watts yet?

One DNA board I'm working with does a min of 4.8 Watts with a max of 11.1 Watts. While another DNA board set up exactly the same with the same parts on the breadboard is giving a min of 7.4 Watts and a max of 11 Watts.

The min Watts on the 2nd board is a concern since it should at least go down to 5 Watts, but also I really want to get an output of 12 Watts, or at least close to 12 Watts since it's been spec'd at that, but have exhausted all the possibles that I can think of at this time.

 

[Bubbertyboo]

I originally thought of putting a touch switch and a digital Potentiometer but decided it was too much technology for one mod... LOL just kidding.
Next one but most likely a different DC-DC converter

Hi mate i think you are the best one to ask this ok bear with me i have my dna12 i want to put it into my gg i have everything sorted at least i thought i did.

1 the switch logo with the + and - goes to a momentary switch but not as live earth as just an in out can i make this a constant connection and use the feed +and - to cut and create the connection instead

Here is a crude pic.

 

[breaktru]

Breaktru - did you do anything different from your original wiring/setup to get the DNA board to output 11.58 Watts when initially you were getting a max of 10.68 Watts? Are you able to consistently get those higher Watts? Have you ever reached 12 Watts yet?

One DNA board I'm working with does a min of 4.8 Watts with a max of 11.1 Watts. While another DNA board set up exactly the same with the same parts on the breadboard is giving a min of 7.4 Watts and a max of 11 Watts.

The min Watts on the 2nd board is a concern since it should at least go down to 5 Watts, but also I really want to get an output of 12 Watts, or at least close to 12 Watts since it's been spec'd at that, but have exhausted all the possibles that I can think of at this time.

Hey mamu, good morning.
It is not consistent. I'm using the same exact setup all wired up in the mod and get different results from time to time. Also it fluctuates considerable. My micro processor is updating/calculating readings every 1000ms (1 sec). Sure, if I change the refresh to say 5 sec it would look stable. How often does your meter take a reading?

On your second board, have you compared/measured the actual ohm readings on the pot? could the resistance tolerance be different?

 

[breaktru]

Hi mate i think you are the best one to ask this ok bear with me i have my dna12 i want to put it into my gg i have everything sorted at least i thought i did.

1 the switch logo with the + and - goes to a momentary switch but not as live earth as just an in out can i make this a constant connection and use the feed +and - to cut and create the connection instead

Here is a crude pic.

Remove the ground to the heat sink. And...........
The ATTY must connect as per data sheet. Atty + to pin 10 and Atty - to pin 11. Do not connect to ground.

Why not use Pin 1 and 2 ONLY for your push button instead of using one to break the neg of battery? This way you can use a LOW current switch.
You can but why?

 

[Bubbertyboo]

Remove the ground to the heat sink. And...........
The ATTY must connect as per data sheet. Atty + to pin 10 and Atty - to pin 11. Do not connect to ground.

Why not use Pin 1 and 2 ONLY for your push button instead of using one to break the neg of battery? This way you can use a LOW current switch.
You can but why?

The ggts uses the whole mod including - for atty connection the button is at the bottom where it makes and breaks the negative side to the rest of the mod.

why cant i leave the - to the atty off the board as its just an earth right.
also i have a spring that sides on the side of the heatsink just pushed over and connected at the rear to the main power earth side of the dna i want to do away with the need for a seperate switch so i dont have to drill a hole in the side of the gg.

 

[Dougiestyle]

I think, with the mechanical switch, such as the GG has, your idea, BB, is plausible. Watch for oxidization of the contacts of the mechanical switch, though, as the current is high.

 

[breaktru]

Very nice. Looks great. Photos are excellent.

In that case, I don't see a problem using the batt neg for your switch.
I don't have an actual schematic for the DNA so I would double check with a meter to see if the heat sink is common to the batt neg pin 5.
As far as the atty connection, I would assume that maybe the atty neg connection might not be in common to ground but may be isolated via circuitry.
You may also want to contact Brandon @ Evolv to make sure or just go for it.

 

[Bubbertyboo]

Thanks guys i usually go for it and see what happens lol im waiting on the pot eagerly so i can wet test it first before it all goes together will test the hearsink it looks like it is comparable to a cpu which has a cap over the gubbins inside then a heatsink glued ontop to disipate the heat if thats the case i will insulate that side away from the earth i will keep you all up to date as it progresses.

 

[BuzzKilla]

@ Bubbertyboo

pardon my ignorance, but what do you wish to gain from using the DNA over the Kick, in this application....

i would understand if you wanted to double stack for 24W but aside from that, i just dont see it...