Fasttech Squape Clone

[Btsmokincat]

So I saw a Squape clone on ........'s last week and decided to give it a try. This is my first order from fasttech so I'm not expecting much or the Squape anytime soon. However I wanted to know if anyone has dared to get this particular one yet? I know of the previous concerns over the coating of the deck.

This one however states that the deck is

• Aluminum chimney and deck (Non-Conductive) https://www.fasttech.com/products/1626900

Unlike this one that states "

• Anodized Aluminum chimney and deck (Non-Conductive) https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10007446/1630000-squape-style-rebuildable-atomizer-5-2ml

I'll post again here once I get it, to give my impressions.

Any opinions? Did I just waste $21?

 

[bikeface]

from what I know of the anodizing process, that might be the better to have because the process leaves the surface more inert than without. I'm assuming they anodized it because of possible off flavor from the heating process. Lots of aluminum cookware comes anodized because of this. The real question is what type of rinse they applied afterward bc many times they will use an acidic bath as a conductor for the electricity used in the process. I'm sure someone else will chime in soon enough.

 

[steel bender]

I've read the discussions on fasttech for both. I'd suggest canceling your order and getting the second one with the glass tank instead. It's supposedly made by winsmoke and a better product. I plan on waiting until some reviews start showing up for it first...

 

[Ohms Lawbreaker]

From a poster named grayscale in another thread:
some stuff about anodizing here

"....I keep seeing different manufacturers saying that they've anodized the deck - ? Anodizing is a process in which color is, simply put, infused into aluminum. Aluminum is the only thing that is anodized because it has always been very difficult to get traditional paint methods to properly adhere to aluminum. What does all this mean? Anodizing does NOT make something non-conductive...."

 

[steel bender]

From a poster named grayscale in another thread:
some stuff about anodizing here

"....I keep seeing different manufacturers saying that they've anodized the deck - ? Anodizing is a process in which color is, simply put, infused into aluminum. Aluminum is the only thing that is anodized because it has always been very difficult to get traditional paint methods to properly adhere to aluminum. What does all this mean? Anodizing does NOT make something non-conductive...."

Well, after reading a few more pages after, I get the opinion that some types of anodizing can make something non conductive. But it might expand at a lower temp then the aluminum, which could lead to it cracking or chipping off at some point. So, who knows...?

 

[mbliffert]

I posted this in the SQuape clone thread, but since the Winsmoke is supposedly the FT clone as well, this review and issue would apply here too. TDLR, mine is messed up, I need help, and I'm hoping not all are like this.


Just got the Winsmoke today and wasn't overly impressed. A few posts back I commented on my experience with the Ehpro clone and while the tank was impossible to fill, I was very impressed with the threads, machining, and overall finish. The Winsmoke is defintely not as nice in this department, other than the outer machining, which appears very nice.

The threads are pretty rough and a lot of force is needed to screw the Winsmoke together, but once together its really nice. Coiling was a snap, by far the easiest rba to throw a coil in, and then came the issue...

After coiling, I couldn't get a proper resistance reading on my ohm meter or any of my vv/vw devices. I was shooting for around 1.1ohm on a triple twisted 32g micro @7 wraps. After messing with it for a half hour and not being able to get it to fire up on a mech, I started messing with the 510 pin. By unscrewing it and then screwing it back in I was able to get the coils to fire a few times, but then it stopped working again. I became so fixated on the stupid pin, I messed with it for another hour, threw three different coils in there, tried everything.

Again, after no luck, and my ohm meter deciding to die on me, I decided to give the multimeter a try. Let me first state I'm new to grabbing readings, but am capable of correctly using the device. Interpreting the data fully is another story though.

First I wanted to make sure my mod was working, so I measured voltage under load without the SQuape. This read 4.1v. Then I screwed on the base, which was freshly coiled, 9 wraps 28g micro, and measured ohm resistance across the posts. This measured 1.5-1.6ohm, which should be correct, I think. Then I decided to switch back to voltage and measure output at the posts, and this is where I think I found my problem. I was only getting 2.2v. I then removed the posts and stuck the multimeter leads into the post holes and received the same reading of 2.2v.

I'm guessing with only 2.2v going to the coil it would make sense that it wasn't even heating up. Maybe someone can chime in and take a stab and what might be happening here, or be able to better explain such a large drop in voltage. Is this something I can fix?

 

[steel bender]

What's the resistance at the 510 connection, from the pin to the threads?

 

[VaPreis]

I ordered the 21$ version with the plastic tank the day it came out....then of course, the glass tank version was posted the next.

I didn't bother to cancel my order and it should be here in a week or so. In my experience, no matter what you order from Fasttech, it's a mixed bag. Some are great, some are terrible. And so I figure that my luck will be just as good with either version.

I'll update when it gets here.

 

[Btsmokincat]

I got my Fasttech plastic tank Squape clone today.

Pro's
Threading seems good
Heavy and solid outer tank
Drip tip fits nice and snug
Super easy to build, wick and fill

Con's
No air flow! Wicked tight draw!
Chimney feels cheap and flimsy
Positive pin is "loose", I can turn it in and out with my thumb nail

Right out of the box I could barely draw any air through it. So I drilled out the air holes in the 510 connection and on the deck to 1/16th. Much better and feels like the draw on my PT2.

I was very concerned about the deck being coated is some mystery paint, however after drilling out the air hole and a few experimental scratches it appears to be a solid piece of cheap aluminum and not coated with anything.

I built a 2mm, 30 gauge, 7 wrap, 1.7 Ohm microcoil and wicked it with cotton. The coil doesn't touch any part of the deck and it got good readings on my Ohm meter and MVP2. I don't know if I'll ever trust the "non-conductivity" of the deck so I will just always be careful to make sure my coil doesn't touch it.

So far so good, It vapes well and I like it even if it does feel cheap. If I had it to do over I'd probably buy the glass tank but I'm happy with this one.