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Pictor

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Electrical lesson number 3 :laugh:
Er....what were the first two :unsure: :D

both batteries same way up normally + at top = parallel - voltage remains same nominal 3.7v [4.2v fully charged] but mAh is doubled so they should last twice as long in theory
You mean life-wise or per charge?

now we get to the hard part on an unregulated mod the wattage output for the parallel batteries on a 1.5ohm coil would be around 9w, but on the series it would be just over 36w nearly 4 times as much - but you don't have to worry about that last part because you only use regulated mods, although it could affect the lowest wattage that can be set on a series mod, usually 7w
The iStick 100W says 5-100W, and I'm currently using mine at 6.5W with a 1.8 coil.
 
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Bobw1951

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Er....what were the first two :unsure: :D

You mean life-wise or per charge?

The iStick 100W says 5-100W, and I'm currently using mine at 6.5W with a 1.8 coil.
I'm sure we have done 1 and 2 on battery safety etc...
per charge
iStick 100w = parallel, my comment on 7w was for series regulated mods, nearly all I have seen have a minimum wattage of 7w

If you look at this site and put your resistance in the top slot 1.8 then in the voltage start at 4.2v which is what a full battery will put out then reduce it 0.1 at a time using the down arrow, and watch the power line and you will see what the actual wattage output is if the mod cannot reduce (like the iStick 20w if you remember), but the 100w version can step down correctly like the 50w so that's not relevant for that mod, but still useful to know.
 

Pictor

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I'm sure we have done 1 and 2 on battery safety etc...
I'm sure you did ....once I read something and understand it, I just use that item as advised ...and likely forget what the reasons were :laugh:
per charge
iStick 100w = parallel, my comment on 7w was for series regulated mods, nearly all I have seen have a minimum wattage of 7w
Per charge sounds good then! :)

If you look at this site and put your resistance in the top slot 1.8 then in the voltage start at 4.2v which is what a full battery will put out then reduce it 0.1 at a time using the down arrow, and watch the power line and you will see what the actual wattage output is if the mod cannot reduce (like the iStick 20w if you remember), but the 100w version can step down correctly like the 50w so that's not relevant for that mod, but still useful to know.
Yes! I've bookmarked that.
I got 9.2W, but as you say, the 100W does what it says :) They're a bit clumsy at first, but do seem to work well.
I've got the MCV on it and those new SOCC coils for the Evod can steam through liquid, so the lower wattage suits it best and keeps it as I've been used to.

By the way, I like charging these with the USB, but neither the FT page nor the instructions give the recommended output plug to use. 1A?
 

h00ligan

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All cleaned. I managed to get water in the ultrasonic cleaner body.

It's meant to be filled but so but then water seeped into the electrics part. Seems like I need to revisit a new ultrasonic because the design of this one isn't great. It worked fantastically while it lasted.

Cleaned the specs and the atomizer as well as some jewelry for the Missus

I'd loaded a 316L profile on the opus and I built with that today. 5 wraps of 26 gauge. . Good for flavor not for vapor. I need to find a source for 28 gauge 316L

Stainless seems to require a much higher temo than nickel or titanium. But tastes better than titanium for sure.

I'm not sure if it's the nickel / titanium I use but titanium pollutes flavor more than nickel for me.

9b5fa7b80a8f4f3294827ba6a9f3f691.jpg



-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 

Bobw1951

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By the way, I like charging these with the USB, but neither the FT page nor the instructions give the recommended output plug to use. 1A?
I agree with Marcus on that, if the batteries are easily removable and especially if they are in series : always use a proper charger and buy it from somewhere like myepack not FT or eBay, there are too many fakes about.

If they are single batteries and you need to get a screwdriver out to remove 4 screws to take the back off to get to it, then use the USB

If you haven't got one yet then until you do get one then yes 1A should be fine, it probably draws less, but eleaf tend to be good on that.
 

Bobw1951

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I'm not sure if it's the nickel / titanium I use but titanium pollutes flavor more than nickel for me.
I can't say I have noticed a lot of difference, I bought my titanium wire over here from Stealthvapes, 1 thing I did notice was that the titanium once heated goes a sort of black colour, whereas the nickel stays silvery until it gets gunked up of course, just ordered a small reel of TMC 316L steel wire to give it a try.

Won't be on a lot today, have to go back up the hospital this morning for a blood test to make sure kidneys okay, think that should be okay then this afternoon off up to Dulwich - to watch the local team, I've only seen the 1st out of the 3 matches we've played so far, but we haven't lost one yet, "touch wood"
 

h00ligan

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Not sure the hammers qualify as mainstream footie. :)as someone who's been watching since before PL it's really interesting to see it finally
Picking up here. Ratings grew something like 200% last year.

It's a lot more difficult to watch lower division here however that's improving with the channel beIN sports.

-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 

Bobw1951

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Bobw1951

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I've never been interested in any type of sports really, except darts & snooker and I've sort of given up on those as well these days, it's only since I retired and a couple of my ex-workmates live local to me and follow Dulwich Hamlet, that they roped me into it, makes an enjoyable afternoon out of the house, I'm a carer for my missus so don't get out too much otherwise, and can only really go to the afternoon home games, maybe an away one if it's not too far away.
 
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Bobw1951

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h00ligan

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That may be really useful building temp mods. I'm just about if of mods that can fire that low and don't auto sense. I have to use the istick tc


I'm having awful luck building contact coils with titanium and stainless steel. I just can't seem to get them firing correctly. Spaced work fine but my contacts go up in a blazing white light if I try to sort them out (titanium) or just seem to hit leg all the time. I can't figure out why this is happening as I am building very basic contact coils around 6 wraps or so.

Maybe the wire needs to be doubled or twisted on the legs?

Any thoughts anyone ?


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Brynglas

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Was looking at that myself, handy bit of kit, and cheaper than the one I was thinking it was which is double that if I remember, must have a look and see who might have it in stock.

The other was made by The Friday Morning out of Korea and was something daft like $200,shout out if you come across someone with stock Bob.I know a pile of reviewers have it at the moment so release must be due.
 
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