Fatty v2 bottom feeding rebuildable atomizer prototype by Chris Creations & OKC Vapes

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Ratman

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Good luck on your rally. The people of OK don't understand what is happening.

Not quite so sure about that. DW and I spent the day in OKC a couple of days ago and visited several of the vape shops. They all had petitions on the counters for people to sign and one of the owners I was talking to said they have developed an vape owners association and they have all pitched in and hired one of the top lobbyists to fight this at the state capital.

So some of us at least realize what is at stake here. I do understand the meaning of your post tho. This is going to be a war and this is just the latest battle.
 

clyde2801

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In the land of no hills and red dirt
Here's some horrible photos, sorry:

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Ugh. I think the only thing you can see clearly is all the lip schmutz on my drip tip.
 

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clyde2801

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Tried my 3mm thick bulli wick on a fresh coil this morning, roughly in the 1.5 ohm range. It may not be the best material out there, but I decided to try it because: 1) it's fairly inexpensive, 2) it's easy-peasy to recoil (I'd even say newbie friendly.), and 3) I've got a metric [censored]-ton of it. Okay, mostly the last one.

Again, no problems with my third (or fourth?) coil on this puppy. Despite repeatedly hearing about a "slight learning curve", this is giving me no problems at all. I'm used to coiling around screws from my mark t infinity and bullismoker, but I'm having less issues with this than I did with those other mods. It helps to make sure I leave long tails on the coils, tighten them down, and work the edges of by moving the loose ends until they break off by the screw. Coiling the other mods was like working on a fine mechanical watch, this one is like tightening a couple of bolts on a tractor. As much as I initially liked the posts with coil holes on the chalice, they can be a PITA if you're older with weak eyes. This setup allows me to use my simple bifocals and nothing more.

Another reason why I still have plenty of the thick bulli is that it never seemed to last as long as thinner loops or SS wicks (Though after seeing Oklahoma's own coil ninja, JCOkie, work her magic, I may have been wrapping the wire too tight around it.) and seemed to last two or three days at the most. This is acceptable on the Fatty due to the ease of coiling, while it wasn't so on my prior RBA's. I kind of think I'm not the only person to have that issue on the other rebuildables, with all of the time and effort put into rewicking and reusing existing coils.

I know I'm really belaboring the point, but inexplicably this is the most painless rebuildable I've ever had to recoil. I've gotten to the point where I don't even think twice about it. I don't think I would do it while driving in the car, but I think I'd have the best shot of doing it out of any other RBA I've ever tried. Sterno may have just lost his job as my personal recoiler...
 

clyde2801

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Got a quick text from the OKC Vape owners, they're having a great time in New York (or, as Rob would say it, Noo Yawk) and will be back in flat earth land by Wednesday with.....drum roll, please.....ceramic wick to play with!

Sterno and I have talked about trying it, but: a) it's expensive, b) silica and cotton work relatively well, and c) I've got enough thick bulli to literally fly a kite with. By the way, the thick bulli is still holding in there. It's unraveled a bit except directly under the coil into what appears to be several smaller strands of smaller bulli.

But hey, if someone's going to throw some at me, I'll try it. (Some days, it's good to be the Clyde.) If it is spectacular, I may take up kite flying.
 

clyde2801

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A few posts back, Harley asked about the long post sticking out of the bottom of the BF Fatty. I had to carefully go back 10 days ago when John turned over the prototype to me. The exchange went something like this:

John: "Clyde, before I give this to you, I have some important instructions to give you...."
My inner monologue at the same time: Uh huh. Yeah, okay. Gimmie, gimmie, gimmie, gimmie, gimmie..."

He handed me two o rings. A thicker one with 1/4 of it cut out, and a complete smaller one. The larger one had to be placed inside the 510 connection of the Grand, and the thinner one placed on top of it. He also stated it made it a bit harder to screw on the Fatty onto the Grand, but was essential for proper feeding.

At the time, I thought that was an unnecessary PITA, and I was wrong.

After taking literally all of three minutes to place the o-rings and fatty onto my (non vv) Grand, the feed is very precise on this atty. Quick squeeze drenches the wick (especially if it's folded onto the floor of the atty) and is sucked back into the bottle. Wow, it really helps when you actually follow the modders instructions. (I can imagine Redeyedancer smiling and shaking his head to and fro if he's reading this. Some things DO change, albeit very slowly.)

And, just in case you already aren't convinced I'm a total idiot, let me help you: I just noticed that when you remove the drip tip you can look down and clearly see the coil and wick! (Duh squared, possibly cubed.)

The additional o-rings appear to have three benefits: 1) it eliminates the slight seepage from under the base of the atomizer I was getting before from a hard squonk; 2) it eliminates the the need for hard squonking in the first place since it feeds much more easily than before, and 3) so far, it appears to enhance the auto feed function using the choke down and pour method of vaping. I say appears to, because the ridiculously long wick soaks up a lot of juice and can take multiple vapes before it goes dry. I can see why drippers love the regular version of this atty; it almost has that 'how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie roll pop' element to it.

The o-ring installation doesn't work on my VV Grand prototype, guess the difference in circumference in the juice wells doesn't give the Fatty enough room to latch on with them installed. Normally, I prefer the VVG with anything due to it's adjustable constant voltage and larger juice bottle. But I'm really digging my regular Grand with a LR coil and o-rings on the Fatty, it's been a while since my polished yellowjacket got this much action.

Sterno, if you're reading this, try installing the o-rings if you haven't done so already. Worth it!
 

clyde2801

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Recoiled again, after three days of the thick bulli wick was starting to gunk up and perform less, so I decided why mess with a dry burn when that new coil taste and feeling was a few minutes away?

Was a little careless at first, and didn't screw the center post down quite enough, after having a momentary uh-oh moment when the Fatty didn't fire up. I've had those moments before, when you're blissfully vaping on a new mod, and then it starts acting up. Sometimes it's user error, and others the first sign your mod is acting up. Fortunately, two additional turns of the allen wrench, and all was right with the world again. I need to get an additional allen wrench or find out what size it is so I can have separate coiling sets at home and in the office.

The other hasty mistake I made was cutting the wick a bit too short, which makes it a bit of a chore to tuck the ends inside the top cap of the Fatty when putting it onto the base. That's something I think other RBA veterans need to be mindful of when using the Fatty, since it's second nature to cut 3-4 mm wicks to precisely law down flat on top of the base. The Fatty begs-no, demands-for ridiculously long wicks: besides capturing every last drop of juice and sending it to the coil, the long wicks are easier to tuck into the top cap and still stay out of the way of the air feeder hole on the side. And unlike feeder versions of this mod where you want the wick to go all over the place so it's easier to hit while dripping, I've learned a trick from a you tube instructional video and used a toothpick or unbent paper clip to tuck the coil down onto the floor of the base so it will sop up every last drop there. IMO, a longer wick, whether thick bulli or a few loops of thinner material, makes it easier to coil freehand.

Like a Reo, the Fatty reminds me of a good old fashioned farm truck or tractor...doesn't take a lot of precision or care to get and keep it working. I've run ugly coils on it for a few days that I wouldn't have dreamed on leaving on other rebuildables. Nonetheless, it's always a good idea to take an extra minute on the coil and not get stingy with the length of the coil or wick. Thankfully, OKC has a relative glut of vaping stores (God, at least ten? stores in the greater metro area; I'm starting to think we can call ourselves the Vape Capital of the US.), all of which have ample wire and wick supplies.

Since the tractor's up and running, it's time to go and get some work done while I vape the back forty. I'll check back in, especially once I get my hands on the ceramic wick.
 
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