Feature Request - Variable Voltage

[Mauvemarauder]

Variable voltage would come in handy as a convenient and discreet way to switch from "full steam ahead" to "stealth" modes while on the go.

My default vape voltage is 6v using cartomizers, but I switch batteries and vape at (a less obvious) 3v when near a crowd, while standing on the the train station or subway platforms for example.

I've found that lowering voltage to control vapor production not only has a a lot less of a negative impact on taste than does air flow regulation, it has also reduced the number of cartomizer burnouts and extended my average cartomizer lifespan by a day or so...

 

[Geoff_NYC]

I couldn't wait...So i got a "Little Sister" variable voltage mod. It's the size of a Bic lighter and pretty sweet so far. The battery life isn't great but i really enjoy dialing in my voltage. That being said i miss using my GG

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

Well my original idea for this was also mentioned here, a drop in cap like module. But then I had a mind change, what about plastic/carbon impregnated coloured disks? say 5 1mm thick disks ranging from around 2 ohm to 0.25 ohm, stackable if desired. But who can make these?

But then what Voltage are we aiming at? Buzz owners seem to say 4.5V is a sweet spot. I have 5V and 6.4V and love 6.4V a lot more so everyone has their own sweet spot.

I'm presently using 2 x 18650 LifEPO 3.2V Batts. One weakness of 17340's is that I change batts 4 times a day, these bigger batts are lasting 24Hrs by the look (first day, up to 21 Hr's so far). but they are BIG in x 2 Combo. They also stuck a little in the Telescope, something to watch out for in a preferred Battery.

So I've ordered some 18340 and 18500 to see how they feel in x 2. Will post some pics when received of the different combos again..

 

[Geoff_NYC]

While there is something nice about a stack-able resistor variable voltage solution...a true potentiometer is the way to go imho....that way you really can dial it in to exactly what you want. I envision the potentiometer placed vertically in the tube where it intersects with the center of a control ring. It would be very elegant.

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

Issue I think with a pot is it would need to be a big one hence why most go the electronic route. I like a drop in module, like a bottle cap so if it goes wrong can simply not be used with no harm done to the GG and you can continue vaping without having to wait for a repair.

 

[Geoff_NYC]

Issue I think with a pot is it would need to be a big one hence why most go the electronic route. I like a drop in module, like a bottle cap so if it goes wrong can simply not be used with no harm done to the GG and you can continue vaping without having to wait for a repair.

Definitely

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

I search for 10 ohm or less pots and can't find one, also needs to be able to handle the power. Would want to have close to zero ohms when set to zero. Also be small and be able to dissipate the heat.

 

[Geoff_NYC]

I search for 10 ohm or less pots and can't find one, also needs to be able to handle the power. Would want to have close to zero ohms when set to zero. Also be small and be able to dissipate the heat.

Perhaps the GG itself acts as a mini heatsink...it might get a little warm if you are really cranking it down..but not too bad.

 

[imeothanasis]

There is no reliable potensiometer to handle 2,5 ampere and still be small guys. I am thinking of something that I have to make on my own, its the only solution. It has to be something small to fit on GG. Small and thin

 

[HoPeFuLLL]

Coloured disks

... goes off searching again...

 

[imeothanasis]

Coloured disks

... goes off searching again...

Maybe its the best idea. Quick, cheap, reliable and it has low cost if it has to be replaced

 

[twilab]

Maybe its the best idea. Quick, cheap, reliable and it has low cost if it has to be replaced

And it is possibility that they also might serve as an additional fuse.

 

[imeothanasis]

And it is possibility that they also might serve as an additional fuse.

Thats true too twilab!

 

[Geoff_NYC]

What is everyone else using in their Variable voltage mods...you don't have to reinvent the wheel here...just redesign it to fit in the GG. I'm pretty sure there are a ton of voltage regulation integrated circuits out there that are plenty small enough to fit on a thin round PCB that would fit the diameter of the GG. You just connect the control ring to a post coming off that and you're good. Why not this circuit Adjustable-Voltage Regulator LM317T - RadioShack.com

Make it like a circular sandwich, layered from top to bottom:

1. Negative battery connector (this could a spring)
2. PCB with voltage regulator with small vertical post connected to the "wiper"
3. Control ring with hole in center that connects to post
4. Outbound power connector that leads to spring/fuse of gg.

Basically, the bottom cap of the GG screws into the bottom of this...or this is a replacement bottom cap.

I need zoranth to make a handy dandy picture here.

Also, look at the "Metal Can" package here:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf

 

[Zoranth]

What is everyone else using in their Variable voltage mods...you dont have to reinvent the wheel here...just redesign it to fit in the GG. I'm pretty sure there are a ton of voltage regulation integrated circuits out there that are plenty small enough to fit on a thin round PCB that would fit the diameter of the GG. You just connect the control ring to a post coming off that and your good. Why not this circuit Adjustable-Voltage Regulator LM317T - RadioShack.com

Make it like a circular sandwich, layered from top to bottom:

1:Negative battery connector (this could a spring)
2.PCB with voltage regulator with small post connected to the "wiper"
3. Control ring with hole in center that connects to post
4. Outbound power connector that leads to spring/fuse of gg.

Basically, the bottom cap of the GG screws into the bottom of this.

I need zoranth to make a handy dandy picture here.

Also, look at the "Metal Can" package here:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf

You would need to use the TO-3 package to get the current you need (at least 1.5A which is still 1A short) as you want it to be 2.5A as Imeo stated. The TO-3 package is just too big. Now if they had a higher current offering in the - TO-39 package, that one could be used with relative ease and a very small package.

The TO-220 package would work as well but would be a bit harder to mount\install.

What I had envisioned when I had first mentioned this as going on\in or replacing the Bottom Cap is that you would put the regulation circuit where the battery post is now with a small hole in the center of the bottom cap for access to the adjusting screw. You would want a screw for this as you would not want to inadvertently adjust it out of range then apply power and fry your atty. Using a Ring like the CR you could possibly do that.

Now, all this being said, I have a background in Mechanical Design\Technical Documentation and not Electronics so I will be of no use in the technical aspects of designing this. I however can assist in the "Mechanical" design for the enclosure and mounting. That being said, if someone were to provide me the the initial design and components used, I can try and fit it into the smallest (usable) package for the GGTS

 

[imeothanasis]

The first one is a regulator but it can fix the voltage at e.g. 5 volts. You cant adjust the voltage as you want.

The second one allows only 1,5 ampere through it. And its dimentions are big, dont think its small Geo

 

[Zoranth]

After digging a little deeper on the subject, I found this document about the LM317T

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM317.pdf

If I am reading this correctly, the output current is Min 1.5A and Typical is 2.2A with no number given for absolute maximum current. So, please correct me if I am wrong, but this one may work in the correct configuration

FEATURES
• Output Current 2.2A Typical
• Output Adjustable Between 1. 2V and 37V
• Internal Thermal-Overload Protection
• Internal Short-Circuit Current-Limiting
• Output Transistor Sate-Area Compensation

And this one http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/8602/NSC/LM317S.html states that the Current limits are 1.5A min, 2.2A Typ and 3.5A max as the LM317 in the "T" package. Can use either TO-220 or TO-263

 

[Geoff_NYC]

The first one is a regulator but it can fix the voltage at e.g. 5 volts. You cant adjust the voltage as you want.

Are you sure you can't adjust the voltage?? I thought that was what the 3rd pin was for. Whatever....i don't know what im talking about....i just wanted to propose the idea...you guys take it from here.

 

[Geoff_NYC]

After digging a little deeper on the subject, I found this document about the LM317T

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM317.pdf

If I am reading this correctly, the output current is Min 1.5A and Typical is 2.2A with no number given for absolute maximum current. So, please correct me if I am wrong, but this one may work in the correct configuration

FEATURES
• Output Current 2.2A Typical
• Output Adjustable Between 1. 2V and 37V
• Internal Thermal-Overload Protection
• Internal Short-Circuit Current-Limiting
• Output Transistor Sate-Area Compensation

And this one LM317S pdf, LM317S description, LM317S datasheets, LM317S view ::: ALLDATASHEET ::: states that the Current limits are 1.5A min, 2.2A Typ and 3.5A max as the LM317 in the "T" package. Can use either TO-220 or TO-263

Go Zoranth go!

 

[Zoranth]

Just want to point out that this would deviate from the purely "Mechanical" views of the GG line of products. But, if it were made inexpensive and Canned as a drop in optional device then the consumers would still be buying a purely Mechanical device and choose to add an electronic option. I see no way to make a True adjustable voltage device without the use of electronics. Using resistive wafers would not give true variable voltage. Also need to take into consideration that with stackable devices, the more you stack, the larger the mass and the higher the heat to be dissipated. This could cause the device to become quite warm with continuous use and would also not have any thermal overload protection. Another point with stackable wafers is the more you stack, the longer the GG becomes.