firqt dive into mechs

[solipsistic xerophyte]

Currently I am using a sigelei zmax. I really like it and it gets the job done for me. But recently I decided to take the plunge into rda's and I am limited to what build I can do ohm's wise. So instead of buying an exspensiive regulated device I figured I'd give a mech mod a go. I'm not interested in sub ohming but would like to run dual builds from .7+.

Currently I'm looking at the hcigar tree of life clone. The etching isn't too bad and I like that itcomes with three tubes. For $30 from surevapes it seems like a good deal. But I know very little about mechs. My understanding of battery safety has grown exponentially over the past few months to the point Iwould feel comfortable using one though. Otherwise I'd bite the bullet for a higher priced vv/vs. So what would you guys recommend? I want something to run a mutation x v3 and freakshow mini safely in dual coil on.

Thanks

 

[93gc40]

A mech is only as safe as you use it. And battery safety only applies to a failure, in that the new batteries are less hazardous when a bad event happens. There is only 1 safety feature with a mech, the HUMAN brain.... This mean safety is limited to the intelligence of the user. I suggest you study how to use a mech before you buy a mech. Then buy the one you LIKE best.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

Thanks for the advice. I've been reading state o' flux's blog on mechs as well as multiple posts here. I feel confident that I can safely use a mechanism which is why I am even considering picking one up. I bookmarked multiple links on ohms law and battery safety as resferences and of course the steam engine. I like to tinker with things and always make sure I am as prepared as possible before playing with dangerous toys haha. Safety comes first and foremost for me. But having reliable equipment is as important as being safe.

 

[roxynoodle]

I'm sure that mech is fine. HCigar does top notch machining.

Use high quality batteries from a reputable vendor. Check your build with an ohmmeter before firing it. Lock your mod before setting it down or pocketing it. Carry extra batteries in a plastic case. Keep your mod clean.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

I ordered some aw imr's a week ago. Still waiting for them to arrive if they haven't been lost in transit. I'm going to place another orderfor some soon if my first order doesn't show up. But aw's are safe to run in mechq right? That's what I've been lead to believe so far. Or would another brand be better?

 

[sonicbomb]

I have not heard anything bad about that mod. Though personally if I wasn't going to use any mode other 18650, I would get a mod with a single tube.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

I like having options and for $30 it seems very reasonable. But like I said I don't know which mech clones are good or which the authentic would be better.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I ordered some aw imr's a week ago. Still waiting for them to arrive if they haven't been lost in transit. I'm going to place another orderfor some soon if my first order doesn't show up. But aw's are safe to run in mechq right? That's what I've been lead to believe so far. Or would another brand be better?

These guys should update their old blogs with new information.

I would not build below .7 with an AW.

I don't use them at all.

AW batteries were top of the game a few years back, but today not so much.

Sony and Samsung make high drain IMR batteries with 20amp continuous drain limits that are much safer than AWs 10a IMRs.

 

[Layzee Vaper]

AW also sell a new RED 2200mAh Batteries they are high drain IMR's with a 20A continuous drain. So depending on what you get you may be OK. I have not used them myself as I have Sony and Samsung.

 

[DaveSignal]

Currently I am using a sigelei zmax. I really like it and it gets the job done for me. But recently I decided to take the plunge into rda's and I am limited to what build I can do ohm's wise. So instead of buying an exspensiive regulated device I figured I'd give a mech mod a go. I'm not interested in sub ohming but would like to run dual builds from .7+.

Currently I'm looking at the hcigar tree of life clone. The etching isn't too bad and I like that itcomes with three tubes. For $30 from surevapes it seems like a good deal. But I know very little about mechs. My understanding of battery safety has grown exponentially over the past few months to the point Iwould feel comfortable using one though. Otherwise I'd bite the bullet for a higher priced vv/vs. So what would you guys recommend? I want something to run a mutation x v3 and freakshow mini safely in dual coil on.

Thanks

I don't think a mutation on a mech is going to do it for you with a .7+ build. The mutation or freakshow are lung-hitting RDAs. Does "not interested in sub-ohming" mean that you are not interested in vaporizing your liquid? You really need to be building sub-ohm. Thats how a mech gets its power. With dual coils and that kind of airflow, you should be starting in the .3 range. And then you can decide if you want to go lower.

 

[Baditude]

These guys should update their old blogs with new information.

I would not build below .7 with an AW.

I don't use them at all.

AW batteries were top of the game a few years back, but today not so much.

Maybe you should update YOUR information.

As stated by Layzee Vaper, AW has stepped up their game with the new AW 18650 IMR with 20 amps continuous discharge. I've actually used mine at 0.3 ohms.

 

[roxynoodle]

I have some 24A AWs along with some 20A ones. I don't see any reason not to use them.

As for the atty and build, we all like to vape differently. The OP may be happy with it, or he may decide to build lower.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

So the aw imr18650 1600mah will or will not be suitable uto use until I can pick up some higher drain batteries?

Also I'm not interested in going lower ohm until I feel comfortable being able to make coils at .7 reliably. But I just did the math for a 18650 and it looks like .5ohms would be a safe starting place.

 

[DaveSignal]

yeah, .5 is better. It would work great with a single coil.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Maybe you should update YOUR information.

As stated by Layzee Vaper, AW has stepped up their game with the new AW 18650 IMR with 20 amps continuous discharge. I've actually used mine at 0.3 ohms.

Relax there with the Poor Attitude, turbo.

We all make mistakes even you so chill out.


No need to repeat what's been said.
I read the first post by layzee.
I stopped using AW years ago and hadn't noticed they stepped up their game and started re wrapping higher discharge batteries.

 

[Baditude]

Relax there with the Poor Attitude, turbo.

We all make mistakes even you so chill out.


No need to repeat what's been said.
I read the first post by layzee.
I stopped using AW years ago and hadn't noticed they stepped up their game and started re wrapping higher discharge batteries.

Sorry with the Bad Attitude, its my user name after all.

Yeah, I make mistakes. I usually own up to them when they are pointed out, too. I guess I read into your comments as being durogatory to some people (maybe even me) of ECF members who I've come to respect.

Hopefully there are no hurt feelings. It's difficult to keep up with this fast paced industry.

 

[Thrasher]

If you decide to get the tree of life get the elm dripper for it match made in heaven

Makes a killer hybrid, love mine.

 

[edyle]

Currently I am using a sigelei zmax. I really like it and it gets the job done for me. But recently I decided to take the plunge into rda's and I am limited to what build I can do ohm's wise. So instead of buying an exspensiive regulated device I figured I'd give a mech mod a go. I'm not interested in sub ohming but would like to run dual builds from .7+.

Currently I'm looking at the hcigar tree of life clone. The etching isn't too bad and I like that itcomes with three tubes. For $30 from surevapes it seems like a good deal. But I know very little about mechs. My understanding of battery safety has grown exponentially over the past few months to the point Iwould feel comfortable using one though. Otherwise I'd bite the bullet for a higher priced vv/vs. So what would you guys recommend? I want something to run a mutation x v3 and freakshow mini safely in dual coil on.

Thanks

If you're only going down to 0.7 ohm there's lots of higher powered regulated mods nowadays.

As for mechanical mods.....
What things to look at in mechanical mods:
1: threading. it might be m20x1, m21x1, m22x1
The nemesis is m20x0.5 on some threads and something else on the bottom cap.
2: recessed switch.
most mechs don't have recessed switch;
I have a gp paps which is recessed bottom switch, but find it hard on the fingers.
The praxis is a recessed bottom switch with space for the finger.
3: bottom/top switch
most mechs are bottom switched.
poldia, 69, guppy are topswitched.
4: centerpin:
there is
- floating centerpin, like in the stingray and the astro
- adjustable centerpin like in the nemesis, chiyou, king; most mechs are adjustable centerpin including the tree of life.
- spring loaded - as in the m16 sentinel.
5: telescopic:
some mods are telescoping, like the astro, m16 sentinel, privateV2;
Very convenient to put together; fixed length mods often you have to keep adjusting because it's like there is no wiggle room.
6: kick tube
If you want the option to add 15mm lenth for a dropin kick module, some mods I've bought come with a kick tube included: nemesis, stingray, astro, chiyou, king, poldiac
7: material:
You can get stailess steel mods, copper mods, brass, and aluminium.
I got a few cheap aluminium m16 sentinels $10 each


===edit===
and as somebody mentioned about the elm rda:
the elm uses the same thread as the tree of life and can mate directly to the tube without a 510 connection.

 

[solipsistic xerophyte]

Thanks edyle for all that info.

I'll look into the elm rda. So if I buy the tree of life I will need a 510 adapter for my rda's? In the description it states that it has 510 threading.

Lastly is a kick chip necessary or can I safely operate a mech without one?

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[retic1959]

Thanks edyle for all that info.

I'll look into the elm rda. So if I buy the tree of life I will need a 510 adapter for my rda's? In the description it states that it has 510 threading.

Lastly is a kick chip necessary or can I safely operate a mech without one?

Thanks for all the help guys.

You don't need a kick to operate a mech safely , you need knowledge , a digital multimeter , an ohm meter and good batteries . A kick converts a mech into a VV/VW device , kinda defeats the purpose of going electronics free IMO .