First mech mod, not impressed so far. Any advice?

[edyle]

Didn't realize that, no. So how do I make it sit flush without screwing that in? If it is out at all, it leaves a gap.

To clarify, did you screw the center pin of the tobh all the way in or is it the center pin on the other side that you are talking about?

Because I can't understand how screwing the center pin on the atty outward could possibly cause a gap.
You screw the center pin on the atty outward to prevent a gap, not cause it.


Oh, you mean an aesthetic gap between the base of the atty and the top of the mod!!!!

better find a better way to fill that gap than short out the 510 connector on the atty.

Best to unscrew that positive center pin on the atty a GOOD 2mm if possible; to separate it from the negative 510 thread.

The 510 thread is electrically connected to the adapter which is connected to the body of the mod

 

[GMayberry]

I am thinking I will lower the adjustable screw on the switch and extend the center post out on the Atty. Essentially pushing the battery farther down towards the switch and away from the 510. I see what you are saying now, that 510 connecter is basically positive and negative sitting side-by-side, right?

 

[edyle]

I am thinking I will lower the adjustable screw on the switch and extend the center post out on the Atty. Essentially pushing the battery farther down towards the switch and away from the 510. I see what you are saying now, that 510 connecter is basically positive and negative sitting side-by-side, right?

That is exactly right.
That's one of the biggest problems with that g0d@mned 510 interface used on so many tanks and toppers; it is really designed for cigalikes.

 

[GMayberry]

Now for some reason the center post won't unscrew any and come out like it was prior to the change. Any ideas? It of course is a clone Atty so it may just be worth replacing.

 

[GMayberry]

This is as far out as I can get it. It just spins now...

edit: Ummm scratch that. It just completely unscrewed the center post! Lol

 

[GMayberry]

Does this look better/safer?

 

[GMayberry]

View attachment 354416

And one more with the hybrid screwed on.

edit: Not sure why the picture didn't show up the same way.

 

[GMayberry]

All of those extra parts that I thought weren't needed... Yeah look what one of them is!!

 

[edyle]

View attachment 354415

Does this look better/safer?

Definitely much good protrusion sticking out there; just need to make sure it is electrically insulated from the metal around it. I'm not seeming the insulation in the pic.

 

[edyle]

View attachment 354419

All of those extra parts that I thought weren't needed... Yeah look what one of them is!!

Yup tht's what that big silicone washer is for; to make sure the battery cant touch the 510 thread;

you still need to check the insulation between the middle center pin and the ring around it; I'm sure it's there but just can't see it in the pic.

 

[GMayberry]

I am assuming this what you are talking about? I never knew it was there. Now I am seeing more and more how this is designed and why it isn't the best idea for these types of mods. Wow... Almost Neanderthal design! Lol

 

[tayone415]

It's all in the build (and atty)
just because your impedance is low does not mean massive vapor or intense flavor

That's very true, but a lot of people and lots of "cloud chasers" think the lower you go the more clouds. So many people I've encounter don't know about surface area with heat to airflow. Their are other things besides just the build like air hole size, the bore of the drip tip, like you said the build and atty (connection type copper or gold plated) and also the mod for conductivity and design and the battery's continues amp output and drop offs.

 

[dhomes]

buy a couple Sony VCT-5
a mech mod for sub-ohms is all the battery and having a relatively small voltage drop based on the mod's connections

 

[Yotdawglife]

Seriously, you need to move to a higher amp rated 18650. Also your coils look terrible, if you try to make them more neat, you usually will have better results, what I've found with my tobh clones, is that sometimes one of the posts become loose, and not both coils will fire, thus causing a massive drop in vapor production.

My Suggestions :

1. Buy some Sony VTC5 30 Amp 2600 mAh batteries, I suggest from a reputable vendor.

2. Test ohms through out the build process, IE, with no wick, without torching them on the mod, with wick and juice.

3. Maybe drop down to 26g Kanthal. A bigger coil will take a little longer to heat up, but you will have higher vapor production from my personal experience.

4. Use high VG based liquid.

5. Know the signs of a short and thermal runaway on a battery.

6. I also figured out aswell with the tobh, it is really wicking sensitive, just the slightest uneven ness between coils/sides and you can have issues. Also remember wicking a atty can slightly move a coil around causing both sides to not fire evenly.

Please correct anything I may have said wrong, very sleepy

 

[GMayberry]

If you notice back in the posts, the coils look mangled because I was at work messing with it and all I had to use was a paper clip. I tried moving it around at an angle, then back straight, then back to an angle, moved up, moved down, moved back up, etc etc. Obviously they looked like crap afterwards. I was just seeing what I could do with it before I got home to rebuild. Also, the Sony VTC5 batteries don't come in an 18350. I only have this mech because I wanted to build a short mod. I researched and learned quite a bit before getting a mech, but I am obviously still learning as well. As for high VG, most of my DIYs are all VG except for the flavors.

 

[Asbestos4004]

This is a very scary thread. The reason you got no fire to begin with is because you unscrewed the center pin on your Atty. Thats not an adjustable 510 on theTOBH. Secondly, the switch screw on the Nemesis should always be tight. Thats technically not an adjustment point. You snug the ADJUSTABLE 510 pin on the nemesis to touch the NON-ADJUSTABLE 510 on the TOBH.. Then you tighten the entire switch assembly to snug everything up. You're very lucky so far.

 

[GMayberry]

This is a very scary thread. The reason you got no fire to begin with is because you unscrewed the center pin on your Atty. Thats not an adjustable 510 on theTOBH. Secondly, the switch screw on the Nemesis should always be tight. Thats technically not an adjustment point. You snug the ADJUSTABLE 510 pin on the nemesis to touch the NON-ADJUSTABLE 510 on the TOBH.. Then you tighten the entire switch assembly to snug everything up. You're very lucky so far.

Thank you for this reply! I have not been messing with it much at all, the Nemi has basically confirmed that I need a different mech to begin with. I want to stress again, I have researched quite a bit, and did not jump into this thing to start cloud chasing and building quad sub-ohm coils. I simply wanted a small, sleek mech that was efficient. This one simply is not.

Btw, there was never an issue of it not firing. The coils fired evenly before being wicked

As for the non-adjustable 510 on the Tobh, I was told (by a local B&M employee) that it was. As I loosened it, the center pin also loosened. I questioned that and was assured that it was adjustable... Whatever, idiot, moving on.... As for the 510 pin on the Nemi, I have taken that out and I am using the hybrid adapter. Now to the switch assembly, if it is tightened all the way down, the battery shakes and moves inside the tube. I have tried this also with the 510 piece of the Nemi in place without the hybrid, and it still moves inside. I have the magnets in the switch now, and it still can't be tightened all the way down.

Asbestos4004, since you brought this to light, I want to ask your opinion of what a good, efficient, 18350 mech would be for me. Preferrably with a hybrid look.

 

[Asbestos4004]

If the battery is loose in your nemi....are you sure the little kick ring is removed from the body tubes? Its a small beauty ring. A little bigger than 1/8th".
Also, the guy at your store is an idiot. That screw on the bottom of the TOBH is what holds the positive post in. Loosen it and you get a short. He saw a place for a screwdriver and figured it was adjustable. That's bad wrong.
I've had nemis work in 18350, 500, and 650 modes. Never had to loosen the pin on the switch....AW's, efests and Sony's. You screw the whole switch assembly in until it gets snug....but it won't work with that little tiny tube section installed. Look close.

 

[GMayberry]

It is at home, and I am at my office, but I will look as soon as I get home. It is not part of the 510 top is it? That whole piece is removed for the semi-hybrid adapter.

 

[vapero]

the battery on the nemesis shouldn't rattle, you must have the ring in there
the tobh positive pin CAN be adjusted a little as any other rda, just bang it a little