How do I eliminate the metallic taste on the protank 2? I know it's not the tank because I've washed it and I see burn marks on the tiny rubber piece that surrounds the clearo head (not the cup shaped piece that goes above the wick). Can I just remove it all together or would that cause flooding. Can I replace it with the rubber piece if the clearo fit my T3s since they look the same and doesn't burn? Does Kanger make a replacement piece that is more heat resistant? Or is it because the protank has thick wires on the wick that raise the temperature of the clearo and I have to rebuild it with thinner wires( which I have no idea how to do).
Fix burning gasket on protank 2?
- Thread starter BigOlNoob
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do you mean the insulator at the botton of the head?
if so, that holds the center pin in place and also holds the end of the wires of your coil in place and prevents shorts.
removing it is not an option, replacing it is possible. replacing them without ruining the coil can be quite challenging. when they are put together, the wires are normally longer, and only trimmed after the insulator is in place. but I suppose it could be done, with some luck and a lot of patience.
if you simply meant the gasket near the threads, please disregard this post.
options for replacements insulators can be found online, a couple examples:
Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes
AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher
I never tried the former, but I have a few from kidneypuncher. they are silicone instead of rubber. will endure higher temperatures, but I find them a little more tricky to use.
the latest versions of kanger replacement heads now use silicone insulators as well. you will notice that they are more translucent.
if so, that holds the center pin in place and also holds the end of the wires of your coil in place and prevents shorts.
removing it is not an option, replacing it is possible. replacing them without ruining the coil can be quite challenging. when they are put together, the wires are normally longer, and only trimmed after the insulator is in place. but I suppose it could be done, with some luck and a lot of patience.
if you simply meant the gasket near the threads, please disregard this post.
options for replacements insulators can be found online, a couple examples:
Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes
AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher
I never tried the former, but I have a few from kidneypuncher. they are silicone instead of rubber. will endure higher temperatures, but I find them a little more tricky to use.
the latest versions of kanger replacement heads now use silicone insulators as well. you will notice that they are more translucent.
there are replacement coil assemblies available, alot easier to replace the assembly then to mess with the insulator. and also.... for the insulator to burn like that, consider taking hits of a shorter time duration. Holding the button down for extended time periods leads to excessive wire temps... burning the insulator.
get an xacto
Little knurled lip, lop it off
To do that OP is probably going to have to rebuild though. I've ordered the replacement post insulators from lightening vapes and they are good. I don't know if they are any more burn resistant. I've never tried to replace the insulator without rebuilding the entire head, and I believe it would be very difficult.
OP, can you maybe post a picture of the burned head? I get a little bit of scorching on the insulator, but it doesn't usually produce any bad taste. I'm wondering if you are getting dry hits or if your coil is not making contact with the wick in a few places (which sometimes produces a terrible metallic taste, IME).
well without wick/coil you can't rebuild, but it's actually VERY easy to rebuild a Protank/EVOD style coil pack
But he is new so probably rinsing it out, OP what voltage you running at and what PG/VG ratio you running at
You can do a very very very simple "tuneup" of a protank head and NOT have to take apart the lower half
Also your technique on vaping goes a LOOONG way..instead of one long hard drag like on a stinky, puff puff puff on it like a pipe or trying to start a half lit analog
But he is new so probably rinsing it out, OP what voltage you running at and what PG/VG ratio you running at
You can do a very very very simple "tuneup" of a protank head and NOT have to take apart the lower half
Also your technique on vaping goes a LOOONG way..instead of one long hard drag like on a stinky, puff puff puff on it like a pipe or trying to start a half lit analog
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thanks for the info on the cotton flavor wick. my protank 2 never worked better (also added an aero base)
what's the best link in your opinion to rebuilding them?
Honestly, I would just google and watch several. Everyone does it a little differently and has different tips and tricks. I think it's worth seeing a few and picking the bits that make the most sense to you.
That's basically what I did. I went to youtube, typed in "protank coil rebuild" and watched several. I've used 5/64 drill bit and a 4-40 machine screw. Works great!
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