Flash-e-Vapor V2 rba by Artur Schwarze
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Focal has the 1:1 v4 clone
focalecig.com - Fev 4 Style Rebuildable Atomizer Bundle Sale with Long Mode by ShenRay - Silver
The one on fsttech is weird can't speak to it. The hotcig v3 is the v3 to get, but it's about sold out.. Only found one source in Stock rt now and have no knowledge of the shop.
The Fev line continues, and is a formidable competitor in the single coil class.
focalecig.com - Fev 4 Style Rebuildable Atomizer Bundle Sale with Long Mode by ShenRay - Silver
The one on fsttech is weird can't speak to it. The hotcig v3 is the v3 to get, but it's about sold out.. Only found one source in Stock rt now and have no knowledge of the shop.
The Fev line continues, and is a formidable competitor in the single coil class.
I haven't determined that specifically I had hoped it was for a wireless base, and the size of the disks would fit.. but looks like it may just be the tool for tightening the air tube to hold the tank together with glass. The new version that is being shipped at focal seems to only have a penny listed in the package instead of two disks..
Here's the original showing the what the penny is used for.
Luftführung kurz V2 V3 5 chopping HS-4-25 - Der original Flash e Vapor V3 Shop
I have a question to shenray on this.. Waiting for response..
Here's the original showing the what the penny is used for.
Luftführung kurz V2 V3 5 chopping HS-4-25 - Der original Flash e Vapor V3 Shop
I have a question to shenray on this.. Waiting for response..
If you use the FeV V3 without an air screw and can't stand the whistle. I fixed that issue by putting in a loop of 28g Unkamen SS430, it is quite springy and works perfectly.
With the base away from the FeV wrap a piece of wire around it just above the o-rings. Twist the ends together snugging it up to the base but not too tight. Slide the hoop off the base and trim the end off leaving a 5mm tail.
Now what you are going to do is bend the tail perpendicular to the hoop and slide the hoop up inside the chamber of the FeV. Slide the hoop inside the chamber till it hits the top and try to keep the tail in the center of the air hole. Bend and adjust as required to form the hoop around the flat spot where the air screw goes.
I try to put the end of the tail in the air hole to help keep the hoop in position, this tail breaks the edge of the hole that causes the whistle. It is a quick and dirty fix, I wanted something that would not come loose and go up the chimney by accident.
YMMV and adjust as you see fit.
With the base away from the FeV wrap a piece of wire around it just above the o-rings. Twist the ends together snugging it up to the base but not too tight. Slide the hoop off the base and trim the end off leaving a 5mm tail.
Now what you are going to do is bend the tail perpendicular to the hoop and slide the hoop up inside the chamber of the FeV. Slide the hoop inside the chamber till it hits the top and try to keep the tail in the center of the air hole. Bend and adjust as required to form the hoop around the flat spot where the air screw goes.
I try to put the end of the tail in the air hole to help keep the hoop in position, this tail breaks the edge of the hole that causes the whistle. It is a quick and dirty fix, I wanted something that would not come loose and go up the chimney by accident.
YMMV and adjust as you see fit.
I drilled mine out to 3.5mm and it whistled like a freight train at a crossing. So, I put a round burr in my Dremel and chamfered the hole to cut the sharpness of the sides. It still hisses but no more annoying whistle.
PS - I had no idea if it would work, but it was worth a try and it did work.
PS - I had no idea if it would work, but it was worth a try and it did work.
Damn, lost one of my feeder wicks while havin some interaction with alcoholic bewerages, must have fallen off while filling resulting a messy leak (one of the many during said night/morning).
Before rollin a new one has anyone found an alternative suitable for 50/50 @~30 watts
Before rollin a new one has anyone found an alternative suitable for 50/50 @~30 watts
I'm gonna try rayon straws soon, wrap it around a mandrel and wet down should hold its form. Saw it in a German video recently.
Hello fellow FEV fans. Got a question for you.
Lately Ive been getting some excess liquid going up the air tube and up the drip tip. Its not bad and all the time, but it is annoying.
I know this time of year with all the heat the liquid does get thinner so Ive made some mesh tubes much denser and a bit longer to counter it, but today I took out the tubes and made some really tight ones, with barely a hole. Thought if anything I might get some dry hits when it cooled down, but again, Im getting some liquid going up the tube and to the drip tip.
ANyone get this happen to them? I used to get that happening with my Taifuns especially in the heat, but never had that happen with the FEVS. I dont know how long Ive been using them, and the orings seem soft and flexible and not hard or cracked.
Oh by the way, Im gonna replace all the orings on one of them to see if that resolves it, but now Im wondering if I need to do that with all of them ( I have 5 ) is there a source for oring sizes for the FEV? I always have problems finding sizes on places that sell them, I can never figure out inner dimension and the outer etc. Im lame....
Thanks
Here are some photos. Basically the same thing Ive been doing for a long time now. Only thing different is Im using a finer weave mesh, and smaller diameter inside mesh wick.
Lately Ive been getting some excess liquid going up the air tube and up the drip tip. Its not bad and all the time, but it is annoying.
I know this time of year with all the heat the liquid does get thinner so Ive made some mesh tubes much denser and a bit longer to counter it, but today I took out the tubes and made some really tight ones, with barely a hole. Thought if anything I might get some dry hits when it cooled down, but again, Im getting some liquid going up the tube and to the drip tip.
ANyone get this happen to them? I used to get that happening with my Taifuns especially in the heat, but never had that happen with the FEVS. I dont know how long Ive been using them, and the orings seem soft and flexible and not hard or cracked.
Oh by the way, Im gonna replace all the orings on one of them to see if that resolves it, but now Im wondering if I need to do that with all of them ( I have 5 ) is there a source for oring sizes for the FEV? I always have problems finding sizes on places that sell them, I can never figure out inner dimension and the outer etc. Im lame....
Thanks
Here are some photos. Basically the same thing Ive been doing for a long time now. Only thing different is Im using a finer weave mesh, and smaller diameter inside mesh wick.
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I've not experienced this problem, looking at the build picture it appears your shoulders are very puffy, and fairly high over the edges of the coil. Also looking at the imprints left by the feeder tubes they seem to be pressed in fairly deeply.
A little difficult to see from an over head view, but all this hints to me you could be sucking juice out of the shoulders on the inhale. Heat and increased flow could be adding a little surplus to edge right above the coil allowing it to slightly bead and collect.
Also I mentioned the impressions left by the feeder tubes. When everything is together and pushed in place it may scrunching the cotton even more toward the coil.
Is this pretty much exactly how you've always built in the past? I would pull the cotton slightly back toward the tail ends so that the little cliff of cotton is not so prominent at the coil ends. Puffy shoulders are a good thing, but they may be slightly to puffy right at the coil edges.
I also try not to press my feeder tubes into the tails and make them a fairly loose fit into the feeder holes so they can actually float a bit when the cotton expands from saturation.
Is that 8 wraps of .28g? maybe for the hotter weather do a spaced coil to widen so not so much cotton is directly in the air path?
Don't know that this is your issue, but it may be worth contemplating.
A little difficult to see from an over head view, but all this hints to me you could be sucking juice out of the shoulders on the inhale. Heat and increased flow could be adding a little surplus to edge right above the coil allowing it to slightly bead and collect.
Also I mentioned the impressions left by the feeder tubes. When everything is together and pushed in place it may scrunching the cotton even more toward the coil.
Is this pretty much exactly how you've always built in the past? I would pull the cotton slightly back toward the tail ends so that the little cliff of cotton is not so prominent at the coil ends. Puffy shoulders are a good thing, but they may be slightly to puffy right at the coil edges.
I also try not to press my feeder tubes into the tails and make them a fairly loose fit into the feeder holes so they can actually float a bit when the cotton expands from saturation.
Is that 8 wraps of .28g? maybe for the hotter weather do a spaced coil to widen so not so much cotton is directly in the air path?
Don't know that this is your issue, but it may be worth contemplating.
All I was looking for is a pic of the inside at how far the tubes extend... If the coil or wick is too high and touching the top right around the air tube you can draw some up with lung hits.
Oh also just got in the glass kit for mine. Ordered from focal to get the spare glass.
It's great, really happy with it. Definately lightens the load. Nice sleek look and I can see my juice. Lol
It's great, really happy with it. Definately lightens the load. Nice sleek look and I can see my juice. Lol
So... thank you all for your advise. I have been doing some frustrated deep direct lung hits, think that is part of the problem.
And I guess I lied about doing nothing different. I used to just cut a piece of KGD cotton and slip it in snug but not tight and the straws were shorter. I thought maybe the straws needed more pressure with the heat and the viscosity getting so thin in the heat, etc. I was also experimenting with the "scottish roll"
TOnight I took it apart, made a space coil, same amount of wraps ( 8 wraps, 28g 316 wire, 2.5mm dia ) Slipped a less fluffed , less wide legs and so far so good, I should have photo graphed it. I also put back the reg mesh straws that are shorter and decided to try take out and use my Andy FirstAid glass and so far no "drinking straw" effect.
I seem to have problems when I try something different. I guess I will stick to my boring set ups and be happy.
For some reason I have not really ever used my Glass Kit. It really is nice looking.
And I guess I lied about doing nothing different. I used to just cut a piece of KGD cotton and slip it in snug but not tight and the straws were shorter. I thought maybe the straws needed more pressure with the heat and the viscosity getting so thin in the heat, etc. I was also experimenting with the "scottish roll"
TOnight I took it apart, made a space coil, same amount of wraps ( 8 wraps, 28g 316 wire, 2.5mm dia ) Slipped a less fluffed , less wide legs and so far so good, I should have photo graphed it. I also put back the reg mesh straws that are shorter and decided to try take out and use my Andy FirstAid glass and so far no "drinking straw" effect.
I seem to have problems when I try something different. I guess I will stick to my boring set ups and be happy.
For some reason I have not really ever used my Glass Kit. It really is nice looking.
Cool, yeah I'm really digging the Glass kit.. Should have got it a long time ago...really brings new life into our time tested favorite.
Ever since watching some reviews 'bout Cylin RTA been wonderin if you could do without feederwicks, just placing some tails almost touching the holes making the wick look a lot like a certain fastfoods chains M....
I've done it early in the thread. It works but I found the mesh to be more consistent. But I also didn't try to perfect it.
The only issue is not choking it off and not too open that it floods... Leaving just enough room or looseness at the edge of the feeder hole that you can get air to pass into the tank.
The only issue is not choking it off and not too open that it floods... Leaving just enough room or looseness at the edge of the feeder hole that you can get air to pass into the tank.
Some people in a german forum use this technique. I think they just put a second, half circle shaped piece of cotton ontop the coil wick.
Never tried it, my FeVs run flawlessly with mesh. I also dont want to shape a second piece of cotton everytime I change my wick.
Hello FEV buddies. Im so glad that there is a place to talk about this underrated and amazing atomizer.
All of mine are running just like usual, no more juice going up the tube to the DT. I guess I was going a bit nuts on the big shoulders.
I spaced my coils and left the wick legs shorter and right under the mesh tubes and all is perfect again.
So many people ask me what my all time RTA is and I always say FEV and most dont even know it or ask why I use such an old fashioned or ugly atty. I tell them the same, it just works. ITs my most reliable and best performing and easy atty I have.
Oh, I dont think it that ugly ?
All of mine are running just like usual, no more juice going up the tube to the DT. I guess I was going a bit nuts on the big shoulders.
I spaced my coils and left the wick legs shorter and right under the mesh tubes and all is perfect again.
So many people ask me what my all time RTA is and I always say FEV and most dont even know it or ask why I use such an old fashioned or ugly atty. I tell them the same, it just works.
ITs my most reliable and best performing and easy atty I have.Oh, I dont think it that ugly ?
And, as ever, the pics are unequalled! Beautiful!!Hello FEV buddies. Im so glad that there is a place to talk about this underrated and amazing atomizer.
All of mine are running just like usual, no more juice going up the tube to the DT. I guess I was going a bit nuts on the big shoulders.
I spaced my coils and left the wick legs shorter and right under the mesh tubes and all is perfect again.
So many people ask me what my all time RTA is and I always say FEV and most dont even know it or ask why I use such an old fashioned or ugly atty. I tell them the same, it just works.
Oh, I dont think it that ugly ?
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