Flushing the 510 connector of a Woodvil

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CaptSteve

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I removed the 510 connector from one of my Woodvils, removed the rim of the drip tray on the bandsaw then sanded it flush on the disk sander and then polished and buffed it on the buffing wheels. I then countersunk the Woodvil's 510 connector hole with a 5/8 forstner bit my 4mm and the 510 connector sat flush on the Woodvil.

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Quigsworth

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Nicely done Capt!...couple things from past experience (although at this point the horse has left :))...next time, grab the barrel with a pair of vice grips or linesman's pliers (something with some good sharp teeth) and put some gnarl on the smooth surface of the barrel...don't squeeze the crap out of it but just enough so that one day when you wrench on that rda trying to get the airholes where you like them you don't snap the bond and spin it (sucks when that happens)

Thankfully there is something you can do to line up airholes (and it's not a hokey o ring messin' up your pretty work)...pick yourself up a packet of various thicknesses of brass shim material and make yourself some washers...sometimes that extra .001" to .002" (mix/match) is enough to get the rotation just right :toast:
 

CaptSteve

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Man, another nice piece of wizardry, capt. :toast:

You are on a roll, my man. The only thing with this one would be that you'll need to watch snugging a large atty down too tight and marring the wood, but I'm sure you'll take care.

Thanks Papa, I intend to run a thin o-ring under the Odin on that Woodvil but I can certainly see what you said possibly happening if not careful.
 

unsure

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I removed the 510 connector from one of my Woodvils, removed the rim of the drip tray on the bandsaw then sanded it flush on the disk sander and then polished and buffed it on the buffing wheels. I then countersunk the Woodvil's 510 connector hole with a 5/8 forstner bit my 4mm and the 510 connector sat flush on the Woodvil.
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Nice...hate ya! :laugh:
 

CaptSteve

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Sure FB but I'll do it tomorrow however if it's ok because I have a flight in 6 hours and gotta hit the sack. Didn't change much under the hood just cut the feed tube a bit shorter because with the 510 in flush the whole assemble went slightly further down. While I had the solder gun out I also upgraded to a new spring too.
Next thing I'll do to this Woodvil is give it a full makeover. 3 stage sanding, wood filler, sanding again with fine stuff then spray it with about 4-5 coats of clear with wet sand in between and after the last coat a light wet sand with 3000 grit followed by buffing with fine paste. Should come out with a glass finish
 

turbocad6

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that looks really great. I've done similar with SS 510 bases that I made but never tried it with the stock brass piece. I guess you've gotten over you apprehension of chopping up a real woody huh? :p

are you planning on spraying it with an automotive type 2k clearcoat, or ?... I've thought of trying an automotive clearcoat on wood but not sure how well it will last long term
 

CaptSteve

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that looks really great. I've done similar with SS 510 bases that I made but never tried it with the stock brass piece. I guess you've gotten over you apprehension of chopping up a real woody huh? :p

are you planning on spraying it with an automotive type 2k clearcoat, or ?... I've thought of trying an automotive clearcoat on wood but not sure how well it will last long term

I actually stumbled on this modification by accident. I had on a Cyclone and pulled off the cap and the whole 510 connector including the drip well came out a bit giving me a look at how the whole thing is. After it came out partially I removed the soldered positive and negative wires and it slipped right out. Had that not happened I seriously doubt I would have attempted trying to take out the connector.

I'm going to use a wood lacquer in a spray, same one I used on that woodie I made.
 
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