Agrred on the travel reo, very classy under the airplane lights. Very jealous of your woodvil. Awesome work
Flushing the 510 connector of a Woodvil
- Thread starter CaptSteve
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I wonder, If Robert wants to keep the juice well will there still be a catch cup on the new woodville OR will there be a recessed catch cup to make everything look more flush and sexy? Personally I would prefer a recessed catch cup but I would buy one either way of course.
Super nice work on this one buddy.
Super nice work on this one buddy.
Yes there's plenty clearance between the bottom of the 510 and the button. Only problem is you need to trim a bit the brass feed tube so you can remove the bottle easier. All in all it works great and looks stock as opposed to something chopped by a schmuck like me.
Tomorrow I'll start it's cosmetic facelift with some serious sanding, filling and a crapload of lacquer between wet sanding for a mirror finish. I'll take pics of the process for you for anyone who may want to take on the task.
This Woodvil is so beautiful I want to make it like new so I can enjoy and treasure it for years to come
Tomorrow I'll start it's cosmetic facelift with some serious sanding, filling and a crapload of lacquer between wet sanding for a mirror finish. I'll take pics of the process for you for anyone who may want to take on the task.
This Woodvil is so beautiful I want to make it like new so I can enjoy and treasure it for years to come
that's what happened to me too, originally I just shaved the brass down to fit a bigger dual coil atty and used a spacer to fill the gap but the atty heated up so much that it loosened the 510 and it pulled out when trying to remove my cap too. that made me want to avoid glued in all together and try to make something that screws in or bolts in so it can't loosen up again yet can still be removed if needed.
at first I thought I'd like a poly finish for durability but after getting my hands on the woodvils I really liked the feel of the natural more so I stripped the poly one to a natural finish too, but lately I've been considering doing at least one to a glass type gloss finish too, anxious to see how yours turns out
This Woodvil does need a facelift because the birdseye is showing several holes and crevices which I intend to fill with wood filler matched to the woods color and then sand it to level out the holes. Only challenge I'm going to face is since I'm not removing the button or the 510 (that's in there for good after I used steel epoxy) I'll have to tape them up with painters tape and sand and spray around and over them.
Capt...you did the hard part and did it just fine...you should be able to pull the button blindfolded...it'll make refinishing so much easier...just saying
Quigs, do you have a method for removing the fire button in one piece? Please share, I was unable to accomplish that without total destruction. But I do know Rob has those switches in stock at a very economical price
Oh man! did I speak out of turn? my Woodvils were blemished blanks, sans switches (sans anything actually 
)...that's right!, wasn't it you that went with the mosfet?...did Rob press them in?...what am I saying, of course he did, lol...I apologize Ian (and Capt)
If they're pressed in (and no doubt epoxied as well) you could try a "C" clamp and sockets and use the torque and tap to pull it out but with wood? you've got the skills I trust you gave it a good go, maybe it is a one-way deal...just like Rob's alumi family 510 conn...forget it, no choice but to drill it out.
)...that's right!, wasn't it you that went with the mosfet?...did Rob press them in?...what am I saying, of course he did, lol...I apologize Ian (and Capt)If they're pressed in (and no doubt epoxied as well) you could try a "C" clamp and sockets and use the torque and tap to pull it out but with wood? you've got the skills I trust you gave it a good go, maybe it is a one-way deal...just like Rob's alumi family 510 conn...forget it, no choice but to drill it out.
A C-clamp and a socket, that is definitely worth a try if there is a next time, I didn't think of that. IIRC there is a thread on the switch body and it may be glued as well. I couldn't get it to turn without deforming the switch housing.
I did try getting it out when I had the 510 out but I didn't push it to avoid damage to the birdseye. From what I can see the button has threading to take a nut on the back but Rob didn't use the nut and has it pressed in and glued. I'm real lucky that around the button area the wood is in real good shape so I don't need too much sanding.
I'll try it without removing the button and if worse comes to worse and it doesn't work I'll drill out the button and then install a new button.
I did some research on the net for filling gaps, knots, cracks in birdseye and found that the best method to achieve a perfect surface and look is epoxy and not filler. So I filled all the cracks with epoxy and I'll be sanding flush
I'll try it without removing the button and if worse comes to worse and it doesn't work I'll drill out the button and then install a new button.
I did some research on the net for filling gaps, knots, cracks in birdseye and found that the best method to achieve a perfect surface and look is epoxy and not filler. So I filled all the cracks with epoxy and I'll be sanding flush
This is a shot after the epoxy was applied to the cracks and knots and it dried overnight. As you can see I slapped it on quite liberally
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The final sanding is complete with a series of different grits. I think I started with a 220 and went down to a 1500 grit. Now I've applied the first couple coats of clear lacquer and will start the wet sanding with 1500 grit then apply about a total of 10-15 coats before I do the final wet sand and then buffing with paste for the final finish. The epoxy method of filling gaps worked like a charm and I'm real glad I did some research before I started this
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As you can see the gaps and cracks are all sanded level with the epoxy in there, it will however be more evident once the final surface is finished.
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UntitledThe final sanding is complete with a series of different grits. I think I started with a 220 and went down to a 1500 grit. Now I've applied the first couple coats of clear lacquer and will start the wet sanding with 1500 grit then apply about a total of 10-15 coats before I do the final wet sand and then buffing with paste for the final finish. The epoxy method of filling gaps worked like a charm and I'm real glad I did some research before I started this
Untitled As you can see the gaps and cracks are all sanded level with the epoxy in there, it will however be more evident once the final surface is finished.
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I had a burled Bogger that really peeled up like that...coincidentally I was building a custom kitchen counter top at the cottage and was using this product called 3M Mirror Coat...it's a 2 part resin/hardener thing, self levels and hardens like rock (apparently every coat of this stuff is akin to 50 coats of poly but $$$) so I tried it on the Bogger...it was a major process as I could only do one side at a time (door separate) but the stuff is pretty thick for such a small surface and it cured pretty wavy, so after truing it up with the bench disc , re-drilling all the holes and refitting the door then taking it all the way to 600 wet/dry then buffing it before final re-assembly it ended up looking like there was a 1/8" of glass covering everything, it was really amazing (the gimped burl now looked almost 3D, cool)...long story short, I forgot it on table at a pub a couple nights later, never to be seen again 
...quigsworth rule #37...the more time, effort or money spend on something is directly in-proportional to how long it lasts or remains in my custody...I really have to worth luck that way
...quigsworth rule #37...the more time, effort or money spend on something is directly in-proportional to how long it lasts or remains in my custody...I really have to worth luck that way
Oh man what a bummer after all that work, I would be gutted if that happened. I feel for you brother.
I know there are some great resins out there to achieve true glass finish but I've found they're more for flat even surfaces such as tables. In general they're a real pita to use on small curved surfaces so I'll go with the clear spray lacquer. It's more time consuming because each layer is so thin and to get a glass like surface you need a crazy amount of layers but with patience and perseverance it works out great. Besides Quigs as you know better than me, it's not the destination that matters so much as the journey and this beautiful Woodvil Rob made deserves to be restored to it's full glory
Thanks
I know there are some great resins out there to achieve true glass finish but I've found they're more for flat even surfaces such as tables. In general they're a real pita to use on small curved surfaces so I'll go with the clear spray lacquer. It's more time consuming because each layer is so thin and to get a glass like surface you need a crazy amount of layers but with patience and perseverance it works out great. Besides Quigs as you know better than me, it's not the destination that matters so much as the journey and this beautiful Woodvil Rob made deserves to be restored to it's full glory
Thanks
Not counting but I think this is layer #6 or 7 and the glass effect is already starting to show nicely. Good thing with the clear wood lacquer I'm using is that it dries to the point of applying a new coat in 20 min. Still many many layers away from finishing but coming together nicely
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...have you ever seen a Bogger?...they're the Volvo of bf mods...the Mirror coat was made for them...but ya a Woodvil would be a challenge...you know though (and this would be a ton of work but could have stunning results)...strip a Woodvil down to the blank and dip the body and door in Mirror Coat, hang them perfectly staight up/down and let cure...then re-machine everything...as far as losing it, meh, I don't let stuff like that get me down for too long...chances are quite good I'll do something even dumber shortly thereafter making the 1st screw-up pale in comparison...it's a coping mechanism which doubles as a learning opportunity
That's why I said I'd be gutted because I do know the Bogger Boxes. Having said that I have to say I personally like the Woodvils design more, aesthetically at least.
As far as the dip method in mirror coat I thought of that for another Woodvil but I don't believe that the thickness of the coat would be that much at all. Any idea how much coat (thickness) would actually stay on wood after it's cured. I've never tried that on any wood but I think being able to add coats by re-dipping may actually work.
As far as the dip method in mirror coat I thought of that for another Woodvil but I don't believe that the thickness of the coat would be that much at all. Any idea how much coat (thickness) would actually stay on wood after it's cured. I've never tried that on any wood but I think being able to add coats by re-dipping may actually work.
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