Flushing the 510 connector of a Woodvil

[CaptSteve]

BTW next project is this VW Reo which I plan to gutt and then install a dna 30 and for the outside I plan brushed aluminum and birdseye burl inlays.

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[CaptSteve]

In fact if I decide to go all out on that VW I was thinking of cutting the top and bottom and adding a wooden top and bottom. I need to play with the idea in my head a bit more before I take this on

 

[Filthy-Beast]

If you do the inlays too, it be like an aluminum sub frame wood Reo.

 

[CaptSteve]

Yes in a way FB although I want the brushed aluminum to show and contrast with the birdseye burl.

 

[turbocad6]

nice, looking really good captain. yeah the only way I've found to remove the button is to destroy it, I grab it with a vice grip as close to the mod as I can and then unscrew it, the first 1/4 turn is hard because it's breaking the bond but then it just comes out, destroyed, but out.

that finish looks awesome on that burl, the doors probably going to take quite a bit of sanding to refit it though. how are you transitioning from inner to outer, are you coating the inside too or did you tape that off?

 

[CaptSteve]

If I remember correctly I said I'll need about 10-12 coats for the Woodvil, scratch that I'm on 67 or 68 and still not done. I have a timer going all day every 30 min re-coating. Tomorrow I'll start the wet sand and paste buffing if the surface is hard enough

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[CaptSteve]

nice, looking really good captain. yeah the only way I've found to remove the button is to destroy it, I grab it with a vice grip as close to the mod as I can and then unscrew it, the first 1/4 turn is hard because it's breaking the bond but then it just comes out, destroyed, but out.

that finish looks awesome on that burl, the doors probably going to take quite a bit of sanding to refit it though. how are you transitioning from inner to outer, are you coating the inside too or did you tape that off?

I've got the interior taped off and will probably coat that with a brush Turbo. You should have told me that trick for the button earlier

 

[CaptSteve]

Once the surface is hard and true from the wet sanding the lacquer goes slightly dull. Then with the paste and buffing it becomes like glass and totally transparent

 

[turbocad6]

ha, I just read this button talk now so I was too late

if the button winds up blemished you should be able to remove and replace it even after

 

[CaptSteve]

Yes I'm anxious to see it. I've taped it up best I can but you know what spray is like it goes everywhere so if it looks anything but perfect it's going in the vice grip. You're right even if I have to remove it I can just stick a new one in without surface damage.

Thanks for the heads up

 

[Quigsworth]

That's why I said I'd be gutted because I do know the Bogger Boxes. Having said that I have to say I personally like the Woodvils design more, aesthetically at least.

As far as the dip method in mirror coat I thought of that for another Woodvil but I don't believe that the thickness of the coat would be that much at all. Any idea how much coat (thickness) would actually stay on wood after it's cured. I've never tried that on any wood but I think being able to add coats by re-dipping may actually work.

I loved my Boggers (all gone now)...too bad the Bogger dude cut and ran like he did...not cool.

Quite a bit, the stuff is actually engineered to do just that...I researched it a lot before using it (I did not want to my counter top twice)...maybe a little hard to see from the pic but this is coverage you get just from it flowing over the sides.



Like I said, this stuff doesn't dry like poly or lacquer where you could maybe grind a fingernail mark into it months later...it cures rock hard, like if you hit it with a hammer it may "shatter" hard and when you wet sand it (I stick a sheet of wet/dry onto a 16"x16" chunk of thick lexan for a super flat surface, water just holds it in place) I take it down to 600 grit (where you could leave it as a satin finish) or then take it to the buffing wheel...heat from buffing doesn't bother it, it's almost like polishing a chunk of brass)...god I must sound like a Mirror coat rep. but ya, the stuff is that good...it'll be the last finish you ever do on your Woodvil...just be prepared for some work.

edit, I just noticed I need to finish sanding off the drip nipples off my counter top

 

[CaptSteve]

That's pretty impressive I had no idea it's that good. I gotta get me some of that and run some test on like curved stuff see how it coats.

 

[turbocad6]

I'm considering using an automotive urethane clearcoat on one, I've also got some ceramic clearcoat that's used on some mercedes and infiniti's which is a really hard scratch proof surface and it's even claimed to be self heeling if it does get any micro scratches

 

[CaptSteve]

I was reading this just the other day and was thinking of trying to get some because it's for multiple applications. Quite impressive stuff

Self-Healing Coatings | NEI Corporation

Check out the videos

 

[CaptSteve]

My Woodvil is finally finished and it looks like a million bucks. It took a full 3 days of tender loving (and loads of sandpaper) to give it a new lease of life but now it'll last for ever and give me endless hours of enjoyment.

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[turbocad6]

that looks fantastic

 

[CaptSteve]

Thanks Turbo, it was a day full of wet sanding and polishing but it came out real nice

 

[Quigsworth]

That's really impressive...you gotta like it when turns out like that eh?, well worth the effort...it's like having a whole new toy

 

[CaptSteve]

Thanks Quigs, I'm stoked how good this came out. Feels like a brand spanking new Woodvil. I love this wood and it was in real bad shape and I wanted to give it a new lease of life.

I certainly have a whole lot of new found respect for what it takes to make a blank piece of wood really look good

 

[SITS]

Very impressive work which resulted in a stunning Woodvil.