and, tachaaan, our bike game for ios mobile/tablets is already downloadable!
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/real-riders/id918529746
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/real-riders/id918529746
about 18490..
aw 490 (1100 and 1200 versions) are great but pricey.
going cheaper, on thursday i'll receive some flat Tensai TN18500HP. they are 18500, but measure specifications say they are as short as the 490 aw:
aw nipple 490: 49.2mm. flat tensai 500: 49.1/49.5? nipple tensai 500: ?
will measure when arrived and will tell, because they are supposed to work at 22A continuous discharge, and their tests (including high current discharge curves) tell that their behavior is even better than aw.
if you don't need more than 5A continuous discharge, the red efest 18490 are the shortest: 48.7mm (flat), 48.9 (nipple). their behavior at low currents (<=5A) is acceptable.
my squape-r arrived. usual issue with 510 pin, asked for spares replacement. tank white o-rings came installed, but it's leaking as crazy, so:
should i replace the o-rings with thicker/harder o-rings, or lubing the o-rings with juice before installing the tank would fix it up?
Should have mentioned, mine's also from the first batch. Wonder if all those tubes are undersized? Yet another email to eleven I guessI haven't actually used the 18650 tube yet so I pulled it out to check when I saw this.....NO they do not want to fit! I have one MNKE that fits fine and the rest are a no go! Mine is from the first batch. Looks like I am going to need to have this replaced as well. I'm getting heartily sick of this!
Should have mentioned, mine's also from the first batch. Wonder if all those tubes are undersized? Yet another email to eleven I guess
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thank you, roxy.Check your wicking. The only leak I had turned out to be on me, lol! The crummy white o rings are doing their job (on mine). But on day 5 I lost all my juice through the airhole. Some wicking needs to be in the side juice slots.
SqR success... at least for now. Holding rock steady at 1.1ohm. Not gonna lie, I really like the way this thing vapes. Flavor is outstanding and it makes the coolest sound, lol. Now we'll just have to see if the resistance stays consistent. I didn't fill it all the way up in case it started leaking. If it remains leak-free I'll top it off and roll with it.
Coiled, wicked with rayon, and primed on the W deck:
And we have lift off
it's exactly like you say.Yeah, the wicking is a little tricky on the SqR. Too much in the side slots gives you burnt hits. Not enough and it leaks like a hose.
It does make an awesome sound and I think its a great looking atty. Which is why I've kept trying to work through its issues. If we can solve the 510 pin problem I will be happy enough with it.
check your coil position. maybe it's too high.Well, I must have jinxed myself. It is freaking out now. After running for about 30 minutes at 1.1ohm consistently, I was mid-vape and got a foul dry hit. Resistance had jumped to 3.4. Hit the fire button several times and got wildly varying resistance. I played with the 510 some more but now when I fire the stupid thing it "reboots" my Hana clone or I get a check atomizer message. It must be shorting out. I'm done with it until my screws show up in the mail.
Well, I must have jinxed myself. It is freaking out now. After running for about 30 minutes at 1.1ohm consistently, I was mid-vape and got a foul dry hit. Resistance had jumped to 3.4. Hit the fire button several times and got wildly varying resistance. I played with the 510 some more but now when I fire the stupid thing it "reboots" my Hana clone or I get a check atomizer message. It must be shorting out. I'm done with it until my screws show up in the mail.
it's exactly like you say.
i was used to the tricky built in squape v1. but the w deck in squape-r (together with the ... wick) allows some cotton into the side juice channels. replaced the wick this way (thanks, roxy), added the o-ring to the chimney top thread, replaced the o-rings with the stock spares (i don't have 21x1 o-rings spares), and hope there won't be leaks anymore.
the sound is great, yea.
check your coil position. maybe it's too high.
i try to get coil lower than you, inswva (inside the channel, near to the air hole); it wicks better (i was getting dry hits when trying a higher position), and air draw is enough by using the widest hole setting. using far less wick as well. maybe your coil is so high that it's touching the chamber?
Hana clone? Did you try tightening the ground wire inside the box? I've heard this causes the issues you're having.
Check the (neg?) post that screws onto the floor of the base - not the one that screws onto the coated plate, but the one that goes through the hole all the way down. I took mine completely apart last night, and the threads of that post felt really gunky. Dunno if it's Loctite, but the post came right off with the overtightened screw. But if that post isn't making full contact with the metal floor, then it's not grounding properly, right?Decided I couldn't resist messing with the SqR. Spun up a perfectly nice 24ga 10 wrap coil, double o-ringed the 510 screw, and plopped it on my ohm tester. Ohm tester won't read it because it's not making contact. Put it on my Hana clone. Hit the fire button to heat the coil... 2.4ohm. Uh, no. Hit it again several times. 1.1ohm... 1.9ohm... 1.3ohm... 6.2ohm (lollerskates)
Let the games begin! I should probably wait for my M3x16mm screws to arrive but I'm kind of a glutton for punishment. Wish I had some sandpaper here at work to make sure there isn't ematal on the post screws/510 screw.
edit: I screwed and unscrewed the 510 screw about 10 times. Resistance is holding steady at 1.1ohm now. Time to wick it and fill the tank.
ideal (for me) coil diameter for the squape should be one that allows you to have at least half of the coil inside the channel. so the wick will also fit into the channel as well (wicking better this way). i use 2.8mm drill / 12g needle with the w deck, 28g kanthal (6 wraps, 1.35ohms), but using that diameter drill, i guess 26g would also fit.I can try that, thanks Haku. It didn't dry hit until the resistance jumped way up. Also, the chimney isn't conductive so even if the coil was touching, it should cause a problem. I'll lower it anway and give it a shot. I may have to build a smaller 28ga or 26ga coil. I don't think the current one will sit in the air hole.
if you try another mod, you'll distinguish if the resistance jump is due to the mod or due to the squapeHowever, I was able to get it running again by fiddling with the 510 some more. It has to be at *exactly* the right depth or a) it won't fire b) resistance freaks out. I'm reasonably sure the problem at this point is the length of the pin. Too far into the 510 connector and it won't make contact with the mod. Too far out and it's not got a good enough connection to the threaded base. It's working again now though so I'll enjoy it while it lasts.![]()
if you try another mod, you'll distinguish if the resistance jump is due to the mod or due to the squape
if you try another mod, you'll distinguish if the resistance jump is due to the mod or due to the squape