I got my SQR today from FC - 2 days earlier I got one from FT . Both made by Ivogo, both with the same issues. The +base is shorting even without the center screw. I could fix it by adding a selfmade isolator. Tested and meassured it for a long time before I started to build it. I forgot to test the tank section on the FC one and juice....... .
Fixed that too and now it is vaping stable at 0,9 Ohm. But I don`t trust this naughty boy. The anodizing is not very good. I meassured inside the holes of the decks too and got 0,0 Ohm. Isolating the posts is not easy, because the gap is not enough for shrink tubing. Maybe teflon tape could fit.
Is it worth to work so much on an atty? Is it save after that? Should I better buy a third Heron, Rose, FeV or Fogger? Questions over questions.
SQR`s taste is far better than SQ1, but it is less save. I like the design, the taste and the AFC. And no leakage without modding. My setup runs perfect up to 25 watts.
Btw: a shorting 510 screw is possible too, but a second o-ring will solve this problem.
I've been monkeying with mine for about 1 1/2 weeks. I was all set to return it until I gave it one last ditch effort, and dagnabbit, I love this thing now!
The vape is exactly how I like it, better than any of the other stuff I have so far, even the Orchfun: nice, warm and wet! And I love the whoosh sound it makes.
I'm gonna have to find a working camera now, cuz it looks awesome on my First Mod by Tad. I know. I like living on the edge. I did check it on my meter about 20 times first: after the build, after the quick pulse, after I wicked and primed, without the tank, with the tank, without the tank again...
held steady at 1.2Ω the whole time. (wide deck, twisted 32g spaced, 7/64", rayon)
The posts are a little funky. I hate the way the neg post comes out with the screw when I have to readjust the wire. But it tightens right up with the screw, so no big deal. And if you're getting shorts, I say again to check the threads on that post, and the hole it goes into. Mine was really gunky. If there's anything there to obstruct contact, your coil's not grounding. My pos post stays securely screwed onto the plate.
The deck has to be pushed all the way down, and the o-ring on the base has to be tight enough to keep it down. This is what keeps the plate where it needs to be for the 510 pin. That sucker's down for good on mine, and I ain't using my teeth to get it off.
You can tell it's all the way down when the posts are protruding just a hair. And it probably wouldn't hurt to line the base with a little teflon tape before you position the plate. Just a little added security is all. You never know.
On the
pos pin, yes it's short, but with the right insulator in the 510 hole to anchor it and keep it from wobbling, you'll catch about 2/3 of the threads and it'll still stick out by about 0.5mm. I ordered one of those KFL 510 insulator things and removed the o-ring from the supplied pin. Plenty of torque to tighten it now, and there's absolutely no way that it can wobble.
I can't see it being adjustable though.
The top of the chimney didn't have any kind of gasket to keep it from leaking air or liquid. I didn't want to screw up any tolerances, so instead of an o-ring up there, I just did my plumbing thing and wailed the threads with teflon tape.
It's been a day. Gonna "demo" this thing for a few more days, and if Chucky doesn't rear his ugly head, think I'm gonna keep this thing.
Oh, and thanks for the bottle sources. See? I knew you guys would know. Out of stock at VR, but at least I know where it is now.
Who woulda thunk it? Using a Rose V2 at 1.1ohm and LG-HE2
Regulated Box Mod discussion break 
