Focalecig ... A new Fasttech??

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NiNi

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@Nini I checked out your tutorial to see if there was something different as opposed to every build I've seen of the KFL. They're all pretty much the same which has me banging my head.

I cannot get mine to produce the vapor (yours looks stellar) results like your pic. And flavor is totally muted.

I've tried 28 & 30g kanthal. Cotton/eko/yarn/mesh.... You name it I tried it (although I've not tried the XC-116 yet).

Out of all the gear I have this has been the only one to kick my ....

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

Maybe it's the PG/VG blend of your juice?
When you cut the ends of your wicks, kinda spread them out when you stuff them down the sides so they don't just sit over the juice channel....like "fan" them out from the coil downward, if that makes sense. I don't do the "lay the wick across the ledge" business, it was giving me dry hits and burning wicks.
 

Nibiru2012

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Awesome, come back and let us know how you made out with it after you receive it. :)

That I will most certainly do! I really am enjoying both of my HCigar clones of the Taifun GT and the Kayfun 3.1 ES.
I am hoping the Squape clone is a great vaping RBA too.

Most of my coils are 1.8mm microcoils with 10 wraps of 28ga. Kanthal for a 1.4-1.5 ohms resistance with cotton wicks.

I am really enjoying my new Sigelei Legend 2 mod I got from Varitube. I really like the floating 510 pin connection.
 

Nibiru2012

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suha7yre.jpg


Yeayy, my taifun gt is here....gonna clean it and build it this afternoon


NICE! It sure looks like it's the HCigar clone by the way it's sitting in the box. All the Taifun GT HCigar clones I have purchased and seen on the web have the 'right-hand' tilt, that is the drip tip is tilted to the top right versus the ones from FT which tilt to the left. Plus the parts bag is exactly the same.
 

NiNi

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Ok.......went to "Paint" and tried to show how I do the wicks:

KFL6.jpg

This is how my wick spreads when I stuff it down the sides, fanned out. The "grain" of the wick is up and down, so the juice will go up towards the coil when you "pull" a vape.

K2.jpg

This is how most of the videos and suggestions from others is, down across the "ledge". The wick will get saturated with juice, but once you vape it, it takes a lot of time to get juice back up into the wick, partly because the wick is blocking the juice channels and the "grain" of the wick goes left to right, spreading the juice across the ledge and maybe up to the coil. You're pulling up the juice, but the fibers are making it go across the ledge first, in the meantime, giving dry hits or burning your wick in the coil.

Does that help any? I don't get the "juice suck" or dry hit/burning, and it works fantastic for the entire tank.

LEAKS: If, for any reason you have leaks, it's the o-rings, especially the one that the chimney goes up into in the top below the drip tip. You will have juice coming out of the drip tip when you are filling the tank,and also out of the air hole when you put the KFL upright.

Filling the tank: Hold the KFL at a 45 degree angle, semi upside down. Have the juice port at the bottom of the base. Don't fill it up entirely. While filling, this will indicate if the o-ring and chimney are secure, otherwise your juice will come out of the drip tip. After filling, secure the juice port screw, and tip right side up. You should see a few bubbles coming from the base if your have the clear (poly/glass) section.
And always make sure the stack and chimney are threaded down securely. If they aren't, the vacuum is lost, juice is coming up from under all the base of the stack and flooding up past the inner air port and coil. (And out your outer air port and up your drip tip) If you really tighten the whole stack/chimney onto the base, and it's hard getting them unscrewed from the base, put them in the freezer for a minute or two. Contracts the metal just enough to easily unscrew. I really tighten those 2 pieces with my fingers.
 

NiNi

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ScandaLex.......MORE PICTURES!!!! Muwahahahaha!!!

KW11.jpg

These are the 2 places that really need to be tightened down to seal the vacuum.

KW22.jpg

And this shows the "fan" or the flaring of the wick. This is when the wick is cut level with the top of the stack tube. It's not exact, but the wick will flair down with just a bit of wick laying on the ledge. Of course, this is without the stack or wick being primed, just to show you how it looks when you stuff it down. I use a big paper clip that I've straightened out to do that with.

The whole "wick across the ledge" deal got me frustrated:blink:
Make sure you re-prime your wicks with juice after your test fire.
 

Nibiru2012

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Based on your description I wasn't doing the fan out- mine are straight down. That might be what's wrong.

That's how I do it and have had ZERO leaking or dry hit issues. I leave the cotton wicks long enough to stick above the top of the chimney base and then I trim them to where they're just even with the top of the chimney base. Then I take a micro slot screwdriver tip to push them down into the chimney and flare them out. Then I screw on the chimney top making sure it's snug finger tight along with the base.

This method has not failed me yet... :2cool:
 

ScandaLeX

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That's how I do it and have had ZERO leaking or dry hit issues. I leave the cotton wicks long enough to stick above the top of the chimney base and then I trim them to where they're just even with the top of the chimney base. Then I take a micro slot screwdriver tip to push them down into the chimney and flare them out. Then I screw on the chimney top making sure it's snug finger tight along with the base.

This method has not failed me yet... :2cool:

Yep. Same thing Nini said. :D

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
 

Nikkita6

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I felt that way too but then I started using the what's new tab on the top left hand side. I typically view my post and today's classifieds. I do venture out from time to time apif something interest me but I typically use those to keep up with the threads I am interested/active in or want to be active in. The my post will list the threads you comment in

True! ... the sad part is I had never used the "what's new tab" until Crocky told me about it, and I've been a member for 2 1/2 yrs :blink:
 

Nikkita6

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NICE! It sure looks like it's the HCigar clone by the way it's sitting in the box. All the Taifun GT HCigar clones I have purchased and seen on the web have the 'right-hand' tilt, that is the drip tip is tilted to the top right versus the ones from FT which tilt to the left. Plus the parts bag is exactly the same.

That's because it is Hcigar dahling ;-) ... I actually just received the Rainbow Heaven version as a gift from someone who didn't want it. There are some aesthetic and build quality differences, but it vapes as good as the Hcigar.
 

Nikkita6

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NiNi you are beyond awesome! ... This is why I call you the Kayfun Queen ... because you are! :)

Ok.......went to "Paint" and tried to show how I do the wicks:

View attachment 315014

This is how my wick spreads when I stuff it down the sides, fanned out. The "grain" of the wick is up and down, so the juice will go up towards the coil when you "pull" a vape.

View attachment 315015

This is how most of the videos and suggestions from others is, down across the "ledge". The wick will get saturated with juice, but once you vape it, it takes a lot of time to get juice back up into the wick, partly because the wick is blocking the juice channels and the "grain" of the wick goes left to right, spreading the juice across the ledge and maybe up to the coil. You're pulling up the juice, but the fibers are making it go across the ledge first, in the meantime, giving dry hits or burning your wick in the coil.

Does that help any? I don't get the "juice suck" or dry hit/burning, and it works fantastic for the entire tank.

LEAKS: If, for any reason you have leaks, it's the o-rings, especially the one that the chimney goes up into in the top below the drip tip. You will have juice coming out of the drip tip when you are filling the tank,and also out of the air hole when you put the KFL upright.

Filling the tank: Hold the KFL at a 45 degree angle, semi upside down. Have the juice port at the bottom of the base. Don't fill it up entirely. While filling, this will indicate if the o-ring and chimney are secure, otherwise your juice will come out of the drip tip. After filling, secure the juice port screw, and tip right side up. You should see a few bubbles coming from the base if your have the clear (poly/glass) section.
And always make sure the stack and chimney are threaded down securely. If they aren't, the vacuum is lost, juice is coming up from under all the base of the stack and flooding up past the inner air port and coil. (And out your outer air port and up your drip tip) If you really tighten the whole stack/chimney onto the base, and it's hard getting them unscrewed from the base, put them in the freezer for a minute or two. Contracts the metal just enough to easily unscrew. I really tighten those 2 pieces with my fingers.

ScandaLex.......MORE PICTURES!!!! Muwahahahaha!!!

View attachment 315029

These are the 2 places that really need to be tightened down to seal the vacuum.

View attachment 315030

And this shows the "fan" or the flaring of the wick. This is when the wick is cut level with the top of the stack tube. It's not exact, but the wick will flair down with just a bit of wick laying on the ledge. Of course, this is without the stack or wick being primed, just to show you how it looks when you stuff it down. I use a big paper clip that I've straightened out to do that with.

The whole "wick across the ledge" deal got me frustrated:blink:
Make sure you re-prime your wicks with juice after your test fire.
 

Nikkita6

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Evening all. I'm taking notes in this thread again. Figured I better come back and post before Ms. Nikki comes after me for lurking. :?:

So right you are my Crankypoo, I was just wondering where you were :) ... been sitting in front of Microsoft Word, and 2 dozen photos so I can finally post that Astro mod review .. too much longer and Genghis is gonna yell at me :unsure:
 
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Genghis

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So right you are my Crankypoo, I was just wondering where you were :) ... been sitting in from of Microsoft Word, and 2 dozen photos so I can finally post that Astro mod review .. too much longer and Genghis is gonna yell at me :unsure:

Funny, I kept meaning to post in here to see if the Astro review was up. Or if I had missed it in this ever growing thread. :)
I ended up purchasing it from the other place, hopefully it's just as good as yours from FC. Now I just need to stop staring at the Stingray clone. I really don't need it, right? Funny part is that I'm not a regular mech user, but dang they are sexy. Must look away!
 

Nikkita6

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Funny, I kept meaning to post in here to see if the Astro review was up. Or if I had missed it in this ever growing thread. :)
I ended up purchasing it from the other place, hopefully it's just as good as yours from FC. Now I just need to stop staring at the Stingray clone. I really don't need it, right? Funny part is that I'm not a regular mech user, but dang they are sexy. Must look away!

Aww Genghis ... I literally just came in post the review. See Ms. Nikki's handbook on proper thread etiquette, rule #1: you must wait me! :laugh:
 

Nikkita6

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ASTRO MOD 2014: CLONE REVIEW

The Astro 2014 mechanical mod from Focalecig.com is a near 1:1 clone of the original Astro Mod by Kato, which has been called the world’s smallest telescopic mechanical mod, and sharing in common the 59mm height in 18350, the clone is no exception.

I did quite a bit of research on the original Astro Mod by Kato, which included written, and video reviews so that I would have some sort of comparison with the original. While the Astro by Kato was consistently referred to as beautiful, there were also some consistent slights against the original as expressed by several reviewers, and mod owners. Specifically crunchy threads, a very stiff fire button which also had the tendency to come undone, and a locking ring which sometimes gets stuck. In addition, many challenged the Astro’s claim of being the smallest telescopic mod in the world due to the need to telescope the mod during use with nipple top batteries.

This cloned 2014 version of the Astro mechanical mod has the following features:

all brushed stainless steel construction (the original has a polished finish)
laser etched logo and serial # on the main body
engraved top cap with a brass floating fire pin
telescopic tube which can be installed either at the top, or the bottom of the main tube,
kick extension ring which can also double as 18500 extension tube
delrin insulated spring load bottom firing which with an adjustable brass contact
Reverse threaded locking ring
23mm outer tube diameter
Accommodates 18350/18500/18650 battery configurations
Can be kicked in all battery configurations

** BONUS FEATURE** The included kick ring threads on perfectly to the SS Vamo V2 to form a 18500 battery configuration on the Vamo V2. (see 2nd photo collage)




Build quality, and construction: Right out of the box the first eye catching detail is the beautiful, and deep engraving, and design on the top cap. Unlike the 2013 mixed brass Astro clones light laser etching, this top cap is actually engraved like the original Astro Mod by Kato. This is one of the most attractive elements of this mechanical mod, which unfortunately becomes covered up once you install your top device.

This is a lightweight feeling mod, which weighs in at approximately 98 grams. Now, lightweight should not be confused with flimsy, which this device is not. In fact, the tone, texture , and feel of the stainless steel body leads me to believe that it may be constructed from 316 SS like the original(in spite of the differing finish). I have another telescoping mod constructed of 304 stainless, which is also comparable in weight to the Astro however, the Astro has a stronger feel to the metal, which is not the result of a difference in thickness of the tubes

Another aspect of the Astro clone which is impressive, is the lack of thread markings on the telescopic tube. Anyone who owns a telescoping mod knows that more often than not, the threads of the inner main tube leaves ring like thread marks on the telescoping tube, which often appear on the mod straight out of the box … this includes high end mods as well. The finish on the telescoping tube of the Astro clone is as clean, and even as the main body tubes, even after one week of everyday, all day use of this mod.

The machining of the threads of the Astro clone is very clean, with no machine oil, dirt, or metal burrs appearing on the threads. There is no squeaking, or crunch in any of threading, including the telescopic tube, and the top, and bottom caps, and this is without any noalox, or vaseline applied to the threads. The reverse threaded locking ring is also well done, works as it should, and requires approx. two full turns to activate and/or release. This may sound like a lot, but considering the smooth, resistance free action of the lock, I don’t find it be a problem.

I will say however, if you are a pinky, or ring finger firer, be mindful of your finger action as you activate the fire button, and release it. I found through regular use, that the action of brushing my finger against the lock ring on its way down to the fire button and back up again, that I can turn down the locking ring a bit, which will cause the mod to misfire.… so be mindful of that.

The spring in the switch to be a very good one, neither too stiff, or loose. I find the length of the throw, which I would approximate at 2-2.5mm, to be acceptable, specifically for this switch design. The distance is comfortable for my ring finger style firing. I am also able to sit the mod down, in any battery configuration, with RBA attached, without it firing under its own weight. There is very little wobble, more like a slight tilt when placed down in the unlocked position.

It is important to note that if you are using nipple top batteries, you will need to slightly telescope the mod out in 18350 mode with kick ring removed (approx. 1mm), and in18500 mode with kick ring attached( approx. 2mm). This is consistent with statements made by several reviewers regarding the original Astro by Kato as well.

Finally, the machining on the top part of the telescopic tube, specifically the top underside where the top cap threads in, is a bit sharp, so you must watch your hand positioning while using the mod in 18650 mode. If I allow my index finger to rest directly under the head of the telescopic tube in 650 mode, the repeated pressure applied while firing the mech will eventually make your finger feel a little raw and tender. It is better to handle to the mod from main tube, especially while firing it in 18650 mode.






Performance: What can I say … other than instant connectivity. Between the brass positive and negative contacts, the floating center pin in the top cap, and the telescoping tube, connectivity should never be an issue. Just remember to push in the floating pin after changing out one top device, before you mount another device, and you are ready to rock!

Since I do not own an inline volt meter, I cannot speak to voltage drops however, I have used different RBA’s with resistance ranging from .8 – 2.0 ohms, and I was very satisfied with the mods performance. The mod does what it is supposed to do, and it does it well.


Overall: There are only two con’s that I can give this mechanical mod .. 1) the need to slightly telescope the mod in 18350 and 18500 modes (with kick ring) when using a nipple top battery. 2) the sharp machining on the top/underside of the telescopic tube (when telescoped out to 18650 mode). All in all, I can live with that.

What really impresses me is that all of the negatives that were reportedly found on the original Astro Mod by Kato, ie: crunchy threads, a stiff fire button, and a locking ring which is prone to sticking, are not present on this cloned version of the Astro mod. Based on these points alone, the Astro clone is the better buy … not to mention the less expensive choice. As the saying goes “more does not necessarily mean better”.

I am pleased with the way that this mod looks, feels, and performs. I am also quite happy with how utterly perfect its stainless steel finish matches up with the finish on the Taifun GT, which happens to be my favorite RBA at the moment. My original intention was to use it with the Fogger V3, however, the finish is a perfect match with that of the Taifun GT.


The Astro clones light weight, and smaller form factor makes this a pocket friendly mod. And let’s not forget that the Astro’s kick ring can turn a SS Vamo V2 into a 18500 APV… who doesn’t love an unexpected surprise?





 

Genghis

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Aww Genghis ... I literally just came in post the review. See Ms. Nikki's handbook on proper thread etiquette, rule #1: you must wait me! :laugh:

LOL! I thought rule #1 was no lurking.

Very good review! And it definitely looks great with the TGT. Sounds like a winner. I hope I am equally pleased. Now I'm off to do some more lurking...
 
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