Great job!
I don't have my VTR/Erlkonigin anymore. My brother liked it very much. Needless to say, I just gave it to him. That's what family is for, isn't it?
Fogger V4!!
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Great job!
I don't have my VTR/Erlkonigin anymore. My brother liked it very much. Needless to say, I just gave it to him. That's what family is for, isn't it?
Looks like that wait is going to pay off after all. Here is what I've received from Vapor Shark today:
"rDNA 40 UPDATE!
Firstly, we deeply appreciate your patience through the challenges we’ve faced during the production of our rDNA 40. As you may know, the issue was identified as faulty screens and a quality control issue at a third party circuit board supplier. Evolv has now corrected this issue with a new batch of circuit boards and a new detachable screen.
Here at Vapor Shark we have been working proactively to increase production levels with Evolv and we are finally getting out of the weeds! Aside from beginning to get caught up, we brainstormed ways to make the best of a difficult situation…and more importantly, how that translates into something tangible for our customers.
Just because we were dealt a production setback doesn’t mean that we stopped innovating. Now we’re making your rDNA 40 even better than expected...so here’s a little surprise for you guys.
Your rDNA 40s will come with previously unannounced improvements... extra goodies! Rather than waiting to unveil an updated version of our device, we’ve added some new and improved features. Your rDNA 40 will now come equipped with:
Larger Screen: The numbers and characters in this new format are 30% larger (the new version runs at 128 x 32 pixels v.s. 96 x 16 in previous versions).
Zip Charge: As the name implies, your rDNA 40 will now zip through the charging process in less than half the time of previous models! Zip
Reverse Polarity Buzzer: When inserting your battery the wrong way, not only does this device boast reverse polarity protection, but it will beep until the battery is inserted correctly.
We can’t wait to get these in your hands! We know you’ll be quite pleased as your rDNA 40s begin to arrive in early January. All orders currently processing will ship within the next few weeks. No more backorders!
We are currently in production with this upgraded rDNA 40 model and we’ll send your tracking number as we begin shipping.
Thanks again for your understanding, your patience and your business."
Big Screen Vapor Shark rDNA40:
Now I know what happened with my Vapor Shark. It has bee abducted by UFO's
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I'll give my iPV2 away, the 134, the Cool Fire 2, the Vamo, the VV2s but NOBODY gets my VTR! I fell in love with the form factor the first day I had it and unless or until someone makes the same form factor with a DNA40 chip it's my favorite. It fits in my phone/EMS pouch so nicely and can go anywhere. Now with the Erlkonigin in it, easy filling and great vapor, it's better than ever. I may give mod building a try, if I can ever get that motivated and build one out of brass if no one makes it commercially.
My only complaints about the Erlkonigin are the PMMA tank, the air flow control and the relatively loose drip tip, with the adapter that allows interchangeable drip tips. None of those are deal breakers and the top fill makes up for all of them and then some.
My only complaints about the Erlkonigin are the PMMA tank, the air flow control and the relatively loose drip tip, with the adapter that allows interchangeable drip tips. None of those are deal breakers and the top fill makes up for all of them and then some.
Here is some useful information:
Magnum™ Drills & Super Premium Cutting Tools
Welcome to the world of Magnum Super Premium twist drills. This page will provide you with the opportunity to review the many features and benefits of Magnum drills and to learn why they are the finest tools available for most drilling applications. These heavy duty drills are recommended for use in tough metal drilling applications and work hardening grades of stainless steel.
Why Choose Magnum™?
•Substantially longer cutting life - The nitro-carburized flute has an increased Rockwell hardness.
•Cuts harder materials - The flatter point takes a smaller chip. More torque is directed to a smaller area. This allows drilling into materials with hardness of over 30 on the Rockwell "C" scale.
•Stops drill walking - The split point design gives accurate starting without the use of a center punch.
•Holds tighter hole size - The split point design is self centering. This limits the normal oversize drilling characteristics.
•Outstanding quality appearance - The rich amber gold color sets it apart from commodity cutting tools.
•Runs cooler, uses less torque - 135° point takes a smaller chip resulting in less heat. Friction is reduced by amber gold surface treatment.
• Stops chuck slippage - Flats on drill shanks allow easy positive chuck grip.
(Flats are machined only on Mechanics Length drill bits & Silver & Deming drill bits, not on jobber length drill bits.)
Magnum™ Vs. Cobalt
The Magnum™ drills will substantially outperform cobalt drills in work hardening stainless steel applications. This performance advantage is the result of construction differences between the two types of drills. Cobalt drills, manufactured to Type J NAS 907 specs, have a very thick web. This web is necessary to limit breakage of the brittle cobalt steel. Magnum drills are made of special hi-moly tool steel, which is much tougher than cobalt steel. The web on a Magnum drill can be thinned considerably due to the toughness of the steel. (See Illustration A)
A Magnum drill with its thin web will penetrate the work hardening stainless fast enough to continually cut beneath the chip which is hardening from deformation. This means the drill is cutting softer steel.
The cobalt drill, with its thick web, cannot be fed at a fast enough rate to cut beneath the area which is hardening. As a result the cobalt drill is continually drilling into hardened steel.
Stainless Steel: Work Hardening Vs. Free Machining
Work hardening grades of stainless are the 300 series with the exception of 303, which is free machining. Free machining grades include the 400 series in addition to type 303. A quick way to identify work hardening vs. free machining stainless is to observe the chip formation. Work hardening chips break up during the drilling process, while free machining chips are long and stringy.
Cobalt Applications
Cobalt drills are recommended for free machining stainless ( 400 series & 303), titanium alloys and other high tensile strength materials. These applications require the high red hardness of cobalt steel to counter the substantial heat generated in the drilling process
Magnum™ Drills & Super Premium Cutting Tools
Welcome to the world of Magnum Super Premium twist drills. This page will provide you with the opportunity to review the many features and benefits of Magnum drills and to learn why they are the finest tools available for most drilling applications. These heavy duty drills are recommended for use in tough metal drilling applications and work hardening grades of stainless steel.
Why Choose Magnum™?
•Substantially longer cutting life - The nitro-carburized flute has an increased Rockwell hardness.
•Cuts harder materials - The flatter point takes a smaller chip. More torque is directed to a smaller area. This allows drilling into materials with hardness of over 30 on the Rockwell "C" scale.
•Stops drill walking - The split point design gives accurate starting without the use of a center punch.
•Holds tighter hole size - The split point design is self centering. This limits the normal oversize drilling characteristics.
•Outstanding quality appearance - The rich amber gold color sets it apart from commodity cutting tools.
•Runs cooler, uses less torque - 135° point takes a smaller chip resulting in less heat. Friction is reduced by amber gold surface treatment.
• Stops chuck slippage - Flats on drill shanks allow easy positive chuck grip.
(Flats are machined only on Mechanics Length drill bits & Silver & Deming drill bits, not on jobber length drill bits.)
Magnum™ Vs. Cobalt
The Magnum™ drills will substantially outperform cobalt drills in work hardening stainless steel applications. This performance advantage is the result of construction differences between the two types of drills. Cobalt drills, manufactured to Type J NAS 907 specs, have a very thick web. This web is necessary to limit breakage of the brittle cobalt steel. Magnum drills are made of special hi-moly tool steel, which is much tougher than cobalt steel. The web on a Magnum drill can be thinned considerably due to the toughness of the steel. (See Illustration A)
A Magnum drill with its thin web will penetrate the work hardening stainless fast enough to continually cut beneath the chip which is hardening from deformation. This means the drill is cutting softer steel.
The cobalt drill, with its thick web, cannot be fed at a fast enough rate to cut beneath the area which is hardening. As a result the cobalt drill is continually drilling into hardened steel.
Stainless Steel: Work Hardening Vs. Free Machining
Work hardening grades of stainless are the 300 series with the exception of 303, which is free machining. Free machining grades include the 400 series in addition to type 303. A quick way to identify work hardening vs. free machining stainless is to observe the chip formation. Work hardening chips break up during the drilling process, while free machining chips are long and stringy.
Cobalt Applications
Cobalt drills are recommended for free machining stainless ( 400 series & 303), titanium alloys and other high tensile strength materials. These applications require the high red hardness of cobalt steel to counter the substantial heat generated in the drilling process
Do you use a lubricant/coolant with these AMD? If so, what do you use? Inquiring minds want to know.
Another question just occurred to me, have you tried the magnum taps? I wonder if they'll do better in stainless as well.
Another question just occurred to me, have you tried the magnum taps? I wonder if they'll do better in stainless as well.
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Absolutely!!! For small hole drilling I use (don't laugh) my own saliva, that's how my father did and his father before him. It works. The larger ones, I use machine oil or gun oil. For threading, I use Rapid Tap heavy duty cutting fluid. It can also be used for drilling. The rule of thumb to follow: You should NOT hear any squalling and your shavings should come out nice and spiral, preferably even on both sides of the cutting blades. Then you are doing it right. Pull out, let it cool down and remove the chips as often as you can. When using oil, the smoke is a very good indicator of the time to pull out and ad more oil. If everything right, it should go as smooth as butter. But if NOT - you are in for a big trouble. Remember that Big Fogger?
No, I have not even heard of those. I like to use the old fashion #1 Tap, followed by #2 Tap and even followed by #3 Tap (if available) Call be an old fart if you will
In the info, that I posted above, I found the answer to my own question: I use to think that SS is not hard, but it is tuff. What does it mean exactly? I could not explain. I just knew how to deal with it. Now here is the answer: "work hardening stainless steel" VS "free machining steel"
My understanding of SS, which Is admittedly microscopic, is that as it is worked, drilled or milled in any way, it actually gets harder. That's why it can be such a bear to work with. I've drilled many stainless sinks over the years but that is thin metal, even "good" ones, compared to what we're talking about here. I will say that when I widened the holes to 1/16" I had nice, even, chips coming out, went slowly, and pulled the bit out often and blew the hole clean. The Big Fogger I got anxious with, hurried and the result was not good.
I'll never laugh at spit for lube. Spit works in place where nothing else will do a decent job, is easily available and costs nothing. My kind of product! And I never would have thought of that, thanks!
I'll never laugh at spit for lube. Spit works in place where nothing else will do a decent job, is easily available and costs nothing. My kind of product! And I never would have thought of that, thanks!
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Man, I've got to tell you: I picked up a few expensive Drill Bits at K H Metals & Supply store yesterday. They are Dewalt Bullet Bits. Magnum super premium precision spiral bits made in Germany. I just love them:
Every time you post something like that, I drool LOL. There's a second hand shop down the road from me and I may start checking the place out on a regular basis, one never know, do one?
I just ordered some bits from Mechanics Tools & Bits, ,magnums in 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm. I hope they work out OK, especially using spit for lube!
I just ordered some bits from Mechanics Tools & Bits, ,magnums in 1.5, 2, 2.5 and 3mm. I hope they work out OK, especially using spit for lube!
Kiwi, there was a Postal Truck rubbery yesterday in Perris, CA
And my Authentic Aqua V2 just happened to be on that truck. Bad luck, I guess...
LN605113915CN
I just finished making my Atomizer Holder as a third floor insert into my tool box / vape box.
1/2" Polycarbonate plate with 70 threaded brass inserts. A lot of work.
In the making:
1/2" Polycarbonate plate with 70 threaded brass inserts. A lot of work.
In the making:
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I now have 3 Squape R Clones. I just acquired two more from fellow vaper.
From left to right: Kingtu - E.H.Pro - Coppervape (I belive) from Fast Tech.
First of all: There was nothing wrong with E. H. Pro one, it worked out of the box.
Kingtu was dead short and positive disk was glued down in the bottom of the base. I had to keep it in acetone overnight to remove the disk.
Then the fun began. First of all, I made 2 new positive pins and drilled 510 connector to install delrin insulators. E.H.Pro one came that way from the factory, the other two I drilled. Then I made three new brass Positive disks wrapped in delrin cups for insulation instead of the original e-metal ones. I made them smaller and thinner, so when installed in their delrine cups, they are the same size as the original. Then I made all new skinny wire posts and put delrin tunes on them. Note: Kingtu has smalled post holes in it's deck then E.H.Pro and Coppervape.
All three are working fine now.
Like I said, I didn't really have to do that to E.H.Pro one, but I did it anyway as a piece of mind, and to keep them all the same. God only knows what kind of e-metal technology were they using.
From left to right: Kingtu - E.H.Pro - Coppervape (I belive) from Fast Tech.
First of all: There was nothing wrong with E. H. Pro one, it worked out of the box.
Kingtu was dead short and positive disk was glued down in the bottom of the base. I had to keep it in acetone overnight to remove the disk.
Then the fun began. First of all, I made 2 new positive pins and drilled 510 connector to install delrin insulators. E.H.Pro one came that way from the factory, the other two I drilled. Then I made three new brass Positive disks wrapped in delrin cups for insulation instead of the original e-metal ones. I made them smaller and thinner, so when installed in their delrine cups, they are the same size as the original. Then I made all new skinny wire posts and put delrin tunes on them. Note: Kingtu has smalled post holes in it's deck then E.H.Pro and Coppervape.
All three are working fine now.
Like I said, I didn't really have to do that to E.H.Pro one, but I did it anyway as a piece of mind, and to keep them all the same. God only knows what kind of e-metal technology were they using.
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Or this 15 Watt Provari build for Kingtu clone with 0.6mm X 0.1mm Flat Ribbon at 1.1 Ω
Ordered a 2nd Fogger 4.1, but got a Fogger Big! Makes my Sigelei look small... but can build 3mm coils with ease
Dear Mr. BNEAT,
Could I pick your brain? I have just received Orchid V4.0. An ingenious Chinese design where the only thing that is holding the whole glass tank assembly together are two wimpy little O-Rings on either side of the glass tube. Yes, I replaced those O-Rings with more beefy ones and it is holding much better now. However, I still feel that is not enough. I feel that one day, when those O-Rings are juiced up, I am going to grab my Mod by the top and my Orchid V4.0 is going to pry open spilling all the juice. Here is the good part: The chimney is long enough and it protrudes all the way through the Top Cap into the Drip Tip hole. I think that if I cut some threads on the end of the chimney and inside of a little Drip Tip adapter, I could use that adapter as a nut to hold the whole thing together.
Here is the question: What Imperial Standard Tap and Die will be as close as possible to something like 5.5mm with the finest pitch possible?
The outside diameter of the chimney is 5.0mm, just asking for M5 Die but, the wall is only 0.6mm thick and if I cut M5 – 0.5mm fine threads that will leave me with 0.1mm thickness of the wall. Not good. Besides, the inner diameter of the hole in my Drip Tip adapter is 4.85mm and even though, the wall there is pretty thick (1.85mm) I will not be able to have full M5 thread, only 0.15mm deep. Not good.
Standard 12-40 Tap and Die, seem to be about the right diameter with the wrong pitch, of course.
Is there something like 12-80 or 12-160 or so Tap and Die available? I’m looking for some common and readily available Tap & Dies.
My biggest concern it to cut as shallow threading as possible on the chimney. I’m even going to have to make a solid metal rod and insert it into the chimney while cutting threads to prevent damaging it.
EDIT: I just found a M5.5 - 0.5 Tap and Die. I knew I should have stock to Metric
And, of course as always: The Tap & Die set ended up costing me more then the Orchid itself. And those are crappy Chinese Tap & Die that I've broken plenty of in the past.
Could I pick your brain? I have just received Orchid V4.0. An ingenious Chinese design where the only thing that is holding the whole glass tank assembly together are two wimpy little O-Rings on either side of the glass tube. Yes, I replaced those O-Rings with more beefy ones and it is holding much better now. However, I still feel that is not enough. I feel that one day, when those O-Rings are juiced up, I am going to grab my Mod by the top and my Orchid V4.0 is going to pry open spilling all the juice. Here is the good part: The chimney is long enough and it protrudes all the way through the Top Cap into the Drip Tip hole. I think that if I cut some threads on the end of the chimney and inside of a little Drip Tip adapter, I could use that adapter as a nut to hold the whole thing together.
Here is the question: What Imperial Standard Tap and Die will be as close as possible to something like 5.5mm with the finest pitch possible?
The outside diameter of the chimney is 5.0mm, just asking for M5 Die but, the wall is only 0.6mm thick and if I cut M5 – 0.5mm fine threads that will leave me with 0.1mm thickness of the wall. Not good. Besides, the inner diameter of the hole in my Drip Tip adapter is 4.85mm and even though, the wall there is pretty thick (1.85mm) I will not be able to have full M5 thread, only 0.15mm deep. Not good.
Standard 12-40 Tap and Die, seem to be about the right diameter with the wrong pitch, of course.
Is there something like 12-80 or 12-160 or so Tap and Die available? I’m looking for some common and readily available Tap & Dies.
My biggest concern it to cut as shallow threading as possible on the chimney. I’m even going to have to make a solid metal rod and insert it into the chimney while cutting threads to prevent damaging it.
EDIT: I just found a M5.5 - 0.5 Tap and Die. I knew I should have stock to Metric
And, of course as always: The Tap & Die set ended up costing me more then the Orchid itself. And those are crappy Chinese Tap & Die that I've broken plenty of in the past.
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My brother stopped by today. He was complaining that his Kayfun starting to taste a little strange. Hmmm, I wonder why?
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